DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 121-26
DROPS design: Pattern no EE-329
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
950-1050-1150-1250-1400-1500 g colour no 21, blue violet

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 20 rows in moss st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTON, NO 536: 6-7-7-7-7-8 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat Row 2.
INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = cast off 4th front band st and cast on 1 new st on next row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 31, 39, 47, 55, 63 and 71 cm.
SIZE M: 32, 39, 46, 53, 60, 67 and 74 cm.
SIZE L: 33, 40, 47, 54, 61, 68 and 75 cm.
SIZE XL: 30, 38, 46, 54, 62, 70 and 78 cm.
SIZE XXL: 31, 39, 47, 55, 63, 71 and 79 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 33, 40, 47, 54, 61, 68, 75 and 82 cm.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 52-56-62-66-74-80 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Snow. Work MOSS ST - see above - with 1 edge st each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue until piece measures 44-46-48-46-48-50 cm. Now K 1 row from RS on all sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 44-48-54-58-66-72 sts. Continue in GARTER ST - see above. After 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm garter st K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts evenly - See INCREASING TIP! = 48-52-58-62-70-76 sts. Insert a marker in piece. Continue in Moss st with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 6-6-6-8-8-8 cm from marker cast off 3 sts each side for armhole and cast off to shape the armhole at beg of every row each side: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 st 1-1-1-1-2-1 times = 40-40-42-42-44-44 sts. Continue in Moss st on all sts until piece measures 24-25-26-29-30-31 cm from marker. Now cast off the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 sts for neck= 12 sts left on each shoulder. Continue until piece measures 26-27-28-31-32-33 cm from marker. Cast off. Piece measures approx 81-84-87-90-93-96 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 30-32-36-38-42-44 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 7 front band sts towards front edge) on needle size 8 mm with Snow. Work Moss st with 1 edge st at the side and 7 front band sts in garter st towards front edge. Continue until piece measures 44-46-48-46-48-50 cm. Now K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly (do not dec on the 7 front band sts) = 26-28-32-34-38-40 sts. Continue in garter st on all sts. When piece in garter st measures 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 sts evenly (do not inc on front band sts) = 28-30-34-36-40-42 sts. Insert a marker in piece. Continue in Moss st with 1 edge st at the side and 7 front band sts in garter st as before towards front edge. When piece measures 6-6-6-8-8-8 cm from marker cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 24-24-26-26-27-26 sts. Continue until piece measures 18-19-18-21-20-21 cm from marker. Now slip the 7 front band sts on a stitch holder and cast off to shape the neckline at beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 3-3-3-3-4-3 times = 12 sts left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 26-27-28-31-32-33 cm from marker. Cast off. Piece measures approx 81-84-87-90-93-96 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left piece but mirrored. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see above.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 28-30-30-32-32-34 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Snow. Work Moss st back and forth on needle with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures approx 8 cm inc 1 st each side. Repeat the inc on every 7-6-5-4-3.5-3 cm a total of 6-7-8-9-10-11 times = 40-44-46-50-52-56 sts. Continue until piece measures 48-48-47-47-45-44 cm (NOTE! less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder). Now cast off 3 sts each side for sleeve cap. Cast off to shape the sleeve cap at beg of every row each side: 2 sts 1-2-1-2-1-1 times, then 1 st each side until piece measures 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm. Now cast off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 56-57-57-58-58-59 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

NECK:
Pick up approx 50 to 65 sts (includes sts on stitch holders) on needle size 8 mm with 2 strands Snow round neck. Work Garter st with 2 strands back and forth on all sts until neck measures approx 12 to 14 cm. Cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.08.2010
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
950-1050-1150-1250-1400-1500 g colour no 21, blue violet

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Konstanze wrote:

Ich verstehe die Angabe der Maschenzahl nach den Zunahmen beim Rückenteil nicht. Wenn ich mit 66 M starte (XL) und nach 46 cm 8 M aufnehme, wie angegeben, ergibt das doch 74 M und nicht wie angegeben 58 M, und wenn ich nach 11cm erneut 4 M aufnehme, ergibt das doch insgesamt 78 M und nicht wie angegeben 62? Was mache ich falsch? Und was heißt "jetzt 1R rechts auf der V o r d e r s e i t e stricken..."? Danke für Ihre Hilfe.

29.07.2022 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Konstanze, es ist ein Fehler im Muster. Wenn es 46 cm misst, sollten Sie 8 Maschen abnehmen, nicht zunehmen oder anschlagen (so haben Sie 58 Maschen). Später nehmen Sie 4 Maschen zu, sodass Sie 62 Maschen haben.

31.07.2022 - 19:31

country flag Mar wrote:

Hola mi pregunta es en la explicación del cuello se indica trabajar con 2 hilos de ida y vuelta, lo que entiendo es que hay que trabajar con doble hilo. La verdad es que llevo 15 años sin tricotar y estoy un poco poniendom al día

20.01.2021 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mar, si, debes trabajar el cuello con doble hilo. Buen trabajo!

20.01.2021 - 18:00

country flag Lisa wrote:

Salve Adoro questo modello. So che è stato progettato per essere lavorato con i ferri n° 8 e con la tensione indicata ma anche se ho un filato sottile ed i ferri N4. 5 desidero realizzare un cardigan simile. Potreste aiutarmi a calcolare le maglie/ferri e resto della lavorazione per cortesia? Grazie infinite Lisa

21.11.2020 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lisa, purtroppo in questa sede non ci è possibile fornire un'assistenza così personalizzata, ma può sicuramente rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

21.11.2020 - 18:08

country flag Lisa wrote:

Salve Adoro questo modello. So che è stato progettato per essere lavorato con i ferri n° 8 e con la tensione indicata ma anche se ho un filato sottile ed i ferri N4. 5 desidero realizzare un cardigan simile. Potreste aiutarmi a calcolare le maglie/ferri e resto della lavorazione per cortesia? Grazie infinite Lisa

21.11.2020 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lisa, purtroppo in questa sede non ci è possibile fornire un'assistenza così personalizzata, ma può sicuramente rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

21.11.2020 - 18:08

country flag Lisa wrote:

Salve Adoro questo modello e desidererei realizzarlo. Ho un filato più sottile ed utilizzerò i ferri N 4,5 Potete per favore aiutarmi con i calcoli delle maglie/ferri, diminuzioni etc..? Grazie infinite Lisa

20.11.2020 - 21:52

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lisa questo modello è stato progettato per essere lavorato con i ferri n° 8 e con la tensione indicata. Purtroppo in questa sede non possiamo aiutarla a riprogettare il modello, tenendo presente anche che con un filato così sottile perderà di forma e di struttura rispetto a quello nella foto. Buon lavoro!

21.11.2020 - 08:36

country flag Westermeyer Nicole wrote:

Sil vous plait quelles mesures pour une petite fille de 12ans avec des aiguilles 4,5 merci a l avance

31.07.2020 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Westermeyer, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir recalculer chacun de nos modèles pour l'adapter à chaque demande, merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin pour toute assistance complémentaire - vous pouvez aussi vous inspirer des modèles enfant avec le même échantillon que celui que vous avez. Bon tricot!

31.07.2020 - 14:19

country flag Paola Marcantonini wrote:

Salve mi piace molto questo modello ma la mia circonferenza è di cm 130 sarebbe possibile rimodellare il modello? Io dovrei lavorare con ferri n.5 ...Grazie

09.01.2020 - 22:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Paola, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

10.01.2020 - 08:02

country flag Sarah wrote:

Hallo :) Ich hab ein Problem bei den Ärmeln... Wenn ich maschen zunehme falle ich aus meinem Muster... Das sieht absolut blöd aus.. Desweiteren habe ich ein Problem mit der Anleitung der ärmel... Nach 8cm je 1 Masche zunehmen, total 6 mal... Das bedeutet hinreihe auf jeder Seite eine dazu dann rückreihe dann hinreihe und wieder je eine dazu? Vielen Dank :)

31.03.2019 - 14:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sarah, die Zunahmen sollen im Muster gestrickt werden, dh immer li über re und re über li. Es wird jeweils 2 Maschen zugenommen: 1 M am Anfang + 1 M am Ende der Reihe. Diese Zunahmen wiederholen Sie total 6 Mal in jede 5. cm (Grösse L). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.04.2019 - 13:14

country flag Yolanda wrote:

En la espalda, ¿ va tejida hasta la cintura en punto musgo? Sin embargo en los delanteros ¿van hasta la cintura en punto arroz?

15.12.2017 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Yolanda, efectivamente se trata de una errata, la espalda se trabaja en punto arroz también, igual que los delanteros.

17.12.2017 - 17:55

Alica007 wrote:

Hi, what does it mean work with two strands? (neck). Does it mean with two yarns? thanks and regards, alica

28.02.2017 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alica007, this mean you have to work with double threads = 2 threads Eskimo instead of only 1. Happy knitting!

01.03.2017 - 08:39