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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted DROPS poncho in 1 thread ”Symphony”, 1 thread "Melody" or 1 thread "Brushed Alpaca Silk" + 1 thread "Alpaca" with rib in ”Alpaca”. Size S to XXXL.
DROPS 123-28 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. DECREASING TIP 1 (applies to mid front and mid back): Dec from RS each side of 2 sts. Dec as follows 3 sts BEFORE marker: K2 tog, K1. Dec as follows AFTER marker: K1, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. DECREASING TIP 2 (applies to the side): Dec by K2 tog before marker and K2 tog into back of loop after marker. -------------------------------------------------------- PONCHO: Worked in 2 parts, then parts are put tog and piece completed in the round on all sts. Arrows in diagram show the knitting direction. BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle from the bottom edge up. Cast on 162-180-198 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with with 1 thread Symphony, 1 tread Melody or 1 thread Brushed Alpaca Silk + 1 thread Alpaca. Work 4 rows GARTER ST - see above! Insert a marker in the middle of piece, i.e. after 81-90-99 sts. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING: REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for sleeve edges. Repeat the inc at the end of every row a total of 9-10-11 times each side (= 18-20-22 inc sts for sleeve edge each side). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' dec 1 st each side of marker – See DECREASING TIP 1! Repeat the dec on every row from RS a total of 46-52-58 times, and when all inc for sleeve edges are complete (piece measures approx 10-11-12 cm / 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4") finish with 1 row from WS. Put piece aside. FRONT PIECE: Like back piece. PONCHO: Slip all sts on the same circular needle and continue in the round. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 after half the sts (to mark the sides). Continue to dec mid front and mid back as before. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-12-13 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" dec 1 st each side of marker each side – See DECREASING TIP 2! Repeat the dec at the sides on every 6th round (every 3 cm / 1 1/8'') a total of 13-15-17 times (= until finished measurements). After all dec are complete there are 160-172-184 sts left on needle. Continue until piece measures 51-57-63 cm / 20"-22½"-24 3/4". NECK: Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and 2 strands Alpaca. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME K2 tog across the round = 80-86-92 sts. P 1 round and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-22-24 sts evenly = 100-108-116 sts. Now continue in rib, K2/P2, on all sts. When rib measures 28 cm / 11'' bind off LOOSELY with K over K and P over P. SLEEVE EDGES: Worked in the round. Sew the garter st at the bottom of back and front piece tog with a couple of sts each side (sleeve edge now has a circumference of approx 24-26-30 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11 3/4"). Pick up 44-48-52 sts round sleeve edge on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with 2 strands Alpaca. P 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2, on all sts. When rib measures 12 cm / 4¾'' bind off with K over K and P over P. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (157)
Monica wrote:
Ok.Muchas gracias.Entonces las partes de frente y espalda viene haci como disminución dos puntos de derecho y otra vez disminución ?
13.04.2016 - 16:20DROPS Design answered:
Hola Mónica. No me ha quedado clara la pregunta. ¿Podrías concretar?
17.04.2016 - 09:37Monica wrote:
Hola,quiero preguntar sobre la explicación del modelo 123-28 si lo de la explicación de los tips es al reves.Es decir si para disminuir en el centro es el tips 2 ? Porqué en eldibujo se ve de otra forma. Y si cuando se juntan las partes y se empieza a trabajar en redondo tengo que disminuir en todas las vueltas. Muchas gracias.
12.04.2016 - 12:41DROPS Design answered:
Hola Mónica el patrón está correcto. Al trabajar en redondo las disminuciones se hacen cada 2ª vta.
13.04.2016 - 09:18Tonje Skillebæk wrote:
Jeg har strikket denne, i str. S/M. Tenkte at er man en str. 38, så vil jo L/XL bli altfor stor - modellen på bildet ser jo ikke akkurat ut som en L/XL.... men, dette kan man ikke bruke som noen preferanse. Poncho'n min ble fin den, passe stor for meg, men er så absolutt mye mindre enn det man kan få inntrykk av på bildet. Opplevd dette før, med oppskrifter her inne. Greit nok, at man skal måle/telle osv., men jeg synes ærlig talt dere skulle tenke litt over hva et bilde gir av førsteinntrykk.
29.01.2016 - 12:06Silvia wrote:
Hatte ein frage am 28.12.2015 gestellt leider keine Antwort erhalten, oder wird der Poncho von oben gestrickt, den die Mitte sieht bei mir anders aus ??
04.01.2016 - 18:01DROPS Design answered:
Der Poncho wird von unten gestrickt. Es entstehen bei den Abnahmen keine Löcher, denn es werden keine Umschläge gearbeitet.
10.01.2016 - 23:13Silvia wrote:
Leider habe ich an gefangen,aber alles wieder auf gerubbelt. Sieht nicht so aus wie auf dem Foto. habe eine neue Anleitung , die aber vom Hals aus gestrickt wird von Schachenmayr Design S9608 die sieht ihm ähnlicher, bloß mir Fransen die kann man ja weg lassen. Da ich bisher keine Antwort auf meine Frage bekommen habe. LG Heike
31.12.2015 - 15:21Heike wrote:
Liebe Sylvia, sie haben den Poncho schon gestrickt? Haben Sie vielleicht eine Strickanleitung darüber, die nicht so kompliziert ist? Gerne über meine Mailadresse. Würde mich sehr freuen
31.12.2015 - 11:23Heike wrote:
Hallo, habe mir einen sehr schönen Poncho herausgesucht. Ist auf seite 10 123-128 ist die Nummer des Ponchos. Hat den schon einmal einer gestrickt und hat vielleicht eine Anleitung, die nicht so kompliziert ist? Darüber würde ich mich sehr freuen. Liebe Grüße heike
31.12.2015 - 11:17DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Heike, die Anleitung sieht komplizierter aus, als sie ist - sie ist sehr detailliert beschrieben, arbeiten Sie einfach Schritt für Schritt nach, dann sollte der Poncho gelingen. Sie können auch gerne nachfragen, wenn Sie an einer bestimmten Stelle nicht weiterkommen oder etwas nicht verstehen. Hilfe finden Sie auch bei den Videos oben im Kopf neben dem Foto, dort werden für den Poncho relevante Techniken im Video erklärt.
03.01.2016 - 16:35Silvia, An Haack wrote:
Bei dem Foto sieht es anders aus, als wenn ich es stricke.Markierung in der Mitte der Arbeit, vor der Markierung zwei rechts zusammen stricken , eine rechts, nach der Markierung eine rechts Masche stricken und eine Masche rechts abheben und eine rechts stricken und die abgehobene Masche darüber ziehen.Auf dem Foto sieht es aber aus als wenn in der Mitte ein Lochmuster ist. Habe ich doch was falsch gelesen?? LG Silvia
28.12.2015 - 21:29DROPS Design answered:
Sie haben es richtig beschrieben. Ein Lochmuster ist auf dem Foto nicht zu erkennen.
10.01.2016 - 23:16Jolanda wrote:
Waarom vraagt de garencombinatie met Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk juist ruim 2x de hoeveelheid Drops Alpaca (vergeleken met de combinaties met Melody of Symphony)??? Bijv. 450gr Alpaca nodig wanneer je combineert met Brushed Alpaca Silk t.o.v. 200gr Alpaca nodig in de combi met Melody. In alle combinaties worden de hals en de mouwranden toch met dubbele draad Alpaca gebreid?
08.12.2015 - 05:52DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Jolanda. Omdat je in deze combi de poncho breit met Brushed Alpaca + Alpaca samen, zie ook patroon: Zet 162-180-198 st op met rondbreinld 6 mm en 1 draad Symphony, 1 draad Melody of 1 draad Brushed Alpaca Silk + 1 draad Alpaca.
08.12.2015 - 16:40Frida wrote:
Bedankt voor U antwoordt op mijn vraag nu mooie wol bestellen. Met vriendelijke groet Frida
07.12.2015 - 13:54