DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Magnus Set

DROPS jacket and hat knitted from side to side in garter st in ”Merino Extra Fine”.

DROPS Extra 0-639
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-047-by + ME-048-by
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JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE
150-150-200-200 g colour no 05, light grey
100-150-150-200 g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/hole, no 521: 5 pcs..
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HAT:

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months(2 - 3/4) years
To fit head circumference:
Ca 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 05, light gray
50 g for all sizes color no 01, off white

DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Worked in one piece from side to side. Beg on left front piece, then knit the sleeve, the back piece, the other sleeve and finish with right front piece. The whole jacket is worked in garter st, i.e. K all rows.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
LOOSELY cast on 54-58-66 (74-80) sts on needle size 4.5 mm with off-white. Work 10 rows back and forth on needle for front band (first row = RS, this row beg at bottom edge). Now work shortened rows and stripes as follows: * work 36-38-44 (50-54) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 49-53-61 (69-75) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work all sts with off-white, turn piece and work return row. Work 36-38-44 (50-54) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 49-53-61 (69-75) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 52-56-64 (72-78) sts with off-white, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row *. Repeat from *-* (i.e. 1 repeat = 12 rows at the bottom and 2 rows at the top). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx 14-15.5-17 (18.5-19.5) cm measured where widest (adjust so next row is worked on all sts in off-white) slip the bottom 32-34-40 (46-50) sts on a stitch holder (= the side). Cut the thread. Cast on 28-32-36 (44-52) new sts (over sts on stitch holder) at beg of row with off-white for sleeve and work remaining sts on row = 50-56-62 (72-82) sts on needle. Turn piece and work return row on all sts.

SLEEVE:
Continue as follows: * Work 32-36-40 (48-56) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 45-51-57 (67-77) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 48-54-60 (70-80) sts with off-white, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 32-36-40 (48-56) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 45-51-57 (67-77) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work all sts with off-white, turn piece and work return row *. Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx 16-17-18 (18-20) cm from where sleeve sts were cast on – measured where widest (adjust so next row is worked on all sts with off-white). On next row from RS cast off the first 28-32-36 (44-52) sts with light grey and slip remaining 22-24-26 (28-30) sts on a stitch holder.
Now slip the 32-34-40 (46-50) sts from the first stitch holder back on needle.

GUSSET:
Continue as follows (first row = from RS): Work all sts on needle with off-white, turn piece and work return row. Work 10-11-13 (15-16) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 20-22-26 (30-32) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work all sts with off-white (insert a marker in piece = the side), turn piece and work return row. Work 10-11-13 (15-16) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 20-22-26 (30-32) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work all sts with off-white, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of row work the top 22-24-26 (28-30) sts on stitch holder back on needle. Turn piece and work all sts = 54-58-66 (74-80) sts.

BACK PIECE:
Now continue with shortened rows and stripes as described for front piece. Continue until piece measures approx 27-30-33 (36-38) cm from marker at the side, measured where widest (adjust so next row is worked on all sts with off-white). Slip the bottom 32-34-40 (46-50) sts on a stitch holder.

Cut the thread. Cast on 28-32-36 (44-52) new sts (over sts on stitch holder) at beg of row with off-white for sleeve and work remaining sts on row = 50-56-62 (72-82) sts on needle. Turn piece and work return row on all sts.

SLEEVE:
Continue as described for the other sleeve until there are the same no of rows as on first sleeve. On next row from RS cast off the first 28-32-36 (44-52) sts with light grey and slip the remaining 22-24-26 (28-30) sts on a stitch holder. Slip the bottom 32-34-40 (46-50) sts from the first stitch holder back on needle. Now work gusset as described above. After gusset is complete there are 54-58-66 (74-80) sts on needle.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue with shortened rows and stripes as before until there are the same no of rows as on left front piece (less the 10 rows for front band). Now work front band as follows with off-white (first row = RS): 4 rows back and forth on all sts, on next row make 5 buttonholes as follows: Work 18-18-22 (26-28) sts, * 1 YO, K2 tog, work 6-7-8 (9-10) sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times and finish with 1 YO, K2 tog and K2. Turn and work return row on all sts. Work 4 rows back and forth on all sts and cast off LOOSELY.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew under arm seams, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam and sew on buttons.
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HAT:
Worked back and forth on needle in garter st, i.e. K all rows. Cast on 31-33-35 (37-39) sts on needle size 4.5 mm with light grey. Continue as follows: * work 12-14-14 (16-16) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work 25-27-31 (33-35) sts with light grey, turn piece, tighten thread and work return row. Work all sts with off-white, turn piece and work return row *, repeat from *-* and cast off when piece measures 40-42-44 (46-48) cm, where widest.
Pick up 80-84-88 (92-96) sts from RS in bottom edge of hat with light grey. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly = 74-78-82 (86-90) sts. K 4 rows and cast off loosely from RS.

Sew hat tog mid back, edge to edge in outer loops of sts.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.12.2017
New Yarn amount:
Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE
150-150-200-200 g colour no 05, light grey
100-150-150-200 g colour no 01, off-white
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Norsa Laurence wrote:

Bonjour, Auriez-vous des modeles gratuits de chaussons et bonnets taille prématurés svp ? Cordialement Laurence Norsa

01.03.2022 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Norsa, vous trouverez tous les modèles en taille pématuré ici, pensez à utilisez les filtres pour cibler votre recherche. Bon tricot!

01.03.2022 - 16:35

country flag Norsa Laurence wrote:

Bonjour, J aurais voulu adapter ce modèle pour un petit prématuré. Comment puis je faire ?

28.02.2022 - 21:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Norsa, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande; vous trouverez nos modèles de gilets en taille préma ici, en espérant que vous y trouviez votre bonheur. Bon tricot!

01.03.2022 - 09:57

country flag Brigitta Zueger wrote:

Hallo , in der verkürzten 1.reihe muss ich 36M stricken...dann drehen, und müsste 49 M zurück stricken...........nun habe ich 13 M zu wenig , ?, danke für Ihre Hilfe

09.06.2020 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Zueger, bei den verkürzten Reihen (1. Größe) stricken Sie: *2 Reihen über 36 Maschen mit hellgrau, 2 Reihen über 49 maschen mit hellgrau, 2 Reihen über alle Maschen mit weiss, 2 Reihen über 36 Maschen mit hellgrau, 2 Reihen über 49 M mit hellgrau, 2 Reihen über 52 Maschen mit weiss* = es sind 12 Reihen (= 6 Krausrippe) über die ersten Maschen (unten) und 2 Reihen (= 1 Krausrippe) oben beim Hals. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.06.2020 - 19:06

country flag LAUNAY wrote:

Bonjour Aucun problème pour la veste merci ! super modèle original ! Par contre pour le bonnet, du fait qu'on tricote (pour la taille 1) les 31 mailles en écru après avoir tricoté 25 en gris , on obtient une bande blanche de 6 mailles sur le dessus du bonnet qu'on ne voit pas sur la photo. Est-ce normal ou faut-il tricoter plutôt 31 mailles en gris une fois sur 2 ??? Merci pour votre réponse.

03.06.2020 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Launay, les rangs raccourcis sont ainsi exacts, dans la 1ère taille, vous aurez bien 6 mailles tricotés uniquement en écru en haut du bonnet. Bon tricot!

04.06.2020 - 08:26

country flag Trine Winther wrote:

Jeg har strikket ovenstående trøje til mit barnebarn. Nu vil min datter gerne have en magen til, hvordan regner jeg opskrifter ud til størrelse 38? Kan I hjælpe med det? På forhånd tak og også tak for de dejlige strikkeopskrifter på jeres hjemmeside. Med venlig hilsen Trine Winther

08.05.2020 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Trine. Så hyggelig at din datter vil ha en maken jakke. Vi har dessverre ikke muligheten til å regne om denne oppskriften til en voksen oppskrift, men ta en titt på DROPS 110-2. Den er strikket nesten på samme måte, men i voksen størrelse. Ellers så kan du bruke søkeordet: "Sidelæns" under Vælg en teknik/søgeord og "Damer" under kategori, da vil du se andre modeller som er strikket sidelangs, kanskje noen som vil falle i smak hos din datter. God Fornøyelse!

11.05.2020 - 09:35

country flag Andrea wrote:

Ich habe mehrfach versucht, den Keil zu stricken,leider klappt es nicht. Wenn ich die letzte Reihe in Natur stricke, komme ich nicht weiter, dann fehlt eine Reihe Natur. Ich würde mich über weitere Informationen, wie man den Keil strickt, wirklich sehr freuen. Vielen Dank!

16.08.2019 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, mit 1 Hinreihe anfangen und so stricken: 2 Reihen über alle Maschen mit Natur, dann verkürzten Reihen stricken: 2 R. über 10-16 M mit hellgrau, 2 R. über 20-32 M mit hellgrau, 2 Reihen über alle Maschen mit natur (= Markierer für die Seite hier einsezten), 2 R über 10-16 M mit hellgrau, 2 R über 20-32 M mit hellgrau, dann alle Maschen mit Natur stricken und die stillgelegten Maschen jetzt wieder stricken = 54-80 M, wenden Sie und die Rückreihe über alle Maschen stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.08.2019 - 08:56

country flag Lilian Andersen wrote:

Huen: jeg forstår ikke, at der slås op med lys grå, jeg har lavet det om, så jeg slår op med natur, og lukker af med natur - ellers kommer der en umotiveret lys grå stribe et eneste sted på huen - jeg tilpasser naturligvis sammensyning

24.07.2019 - 14:02

country flag Deb wrote:

I’m lost with this we’re do I add the st.for the gusset is there some place I can send a picture of my sweater what you told me is what is on the instructions but it doesn’t say where to pick up the stitches If you could inbox me this instead of putting it on the page I would appreciate it

13.07.2019 - 17:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deb, can you please tell us more? Did you already worked the sleeve? have you started gusset or didn't you start gusset? Remember you can alsways contact the store where you bought the yarn for any individual assistance showing them your work. They will answer you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

15.07.2019 - 09:38

country flag Deb wrote:

I’m with the other lady I can seam to get the GUSSET I have the st.on from after the sleeve I did the off white BUT I don’t have enough st. From the under arm up where do I get them from .

12.07.2019 - 00:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deb, gusset should be worked over the bottom 32-34-40 (46-50) sts you slipped aside at the end of front piece, work 1 row with off white over all stitches, then work short rows beg. from bottom of jacket, 2 rows over 10-16 sts (see size) with grey, 2 rows over 20-32 sts with grey, 2 rows over all stitches with off white (mid of side), 2 rows over 10-16 sts with grey, 2 rows over 20-32 sts with grey, 1 row with off white over all sts working the 22-30 sts from the top of yoke at the end of row, 1 row back over all stitches. Happy knitting!

12.07.2019 - 08:43

country flag Meg Steele wrote:

Slip the bottom 32-34-40 (46-50) sts on a stitch holder (= the side). Cut the thread. Cast on 28-32-36 (44-52) new sts (over sts on stitch holder) at beg of row with off-white for sleeve and work remaining sts on row = 50-56-62 (72-82) sts on needle. Turn piece and work return row on all sts. If i cast on over the stitches on stitch holder does that not mean sleeve is at the bottom. Or do you slip stitches from the top edge I find this confusing

29.05.2019 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Steele, you have cut the yarn, then cast on with the ball yarn the new stitches for sleeve, then work the remaining stitches on needle (top of yoke). Happy knitting!

29.05.2019 - 11:24