DROPS 79-10
Cardigan:

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-112-124 cm [34 5/8" - 37.75" - 41" - 44" - 48 7/8"]
Hem: 96-104-112-120-132 cm [37.75" - 41" - 44" - 47.25" - 52"]

Materials: DROPS HIGHLANDER
(alternative SNOW from Garnstudio)
450-500-550-600-650 gr nr 05, dark olive

DROPS 7 mm [US 10½] and 8 mm [US 11] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

5 DROPS Coconut buttons nr 515

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CARDIGAN:

Gauge: 10 sts x 16 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Increasing tips (for the collar):
Inc by knitting 2 sts in the next to outermost st.

Knitting tips (for neckband):
All decs are made from right side. Dec 1 st inside 4 buttonband sts + the increased sts of the collar, as follows:
Before the buttonband sts: K 2 tog.
After the buttonband sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso

Back: Loosely cast on 48-52-56-60-66 sts on larger needles, change to smaller needles and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to larger needles and stockinette st, but keep 3 sts at each side in garter st (for edge of split). When the piece measures 12 cm end split and cast on 1 new sts at each side (= edge st) = 50-54-58-62-68 sts. Knit 4 rows garter st over the 4 sts at each side (knit the remaining sts the same as before). Then knit stockinette st over all sts.
When the piece measures 20 and 40 cm dec 1 st at each side = 46-50-54-58-64 sts. When the piece measures 49 cm knit garter st over all sts to finished measurements.
At the same time when the piece measures 54-55-56-57-58 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-2 times and 1 st 2-3-2-2-4 times = 36-38-40-40-42 sts. When the piece measures 72-74-76-78-80 cm bind off the center 8-8-10-10-10 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 13-14-14-14-15 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 74-76-78-80-82 cm.

Left front: Cast on 28-30-32-34-37 sts on larger needles. Change to smaller needles and knit 4 rows garter st. Change to larger needles and stockinette st, but keep 4 sts at center front edge (buttonband sts) and 3 sts at the side (edge of split) in garter st. When the piece measures 12 cm end split and cast on 1 new st at the side (= edge st) = 29-31-33-35-38 sts. Knit 4 rows garter st over 4 sts at each side (knit the remaining sts the same as before).
Then knit stockinette st over all sts except the 4 buttonband sts which are knit in garter st throughout. When the piece measures 20 and 40 cm dec 1 st at the side edge = 27-29-31-33-36 sts. When the piece measures 49 cm knit garter st over all sts to finished measurements.
Read the entire next section before knitting:
Collar: When the piece measures 50-51-52-53-54 cm inc 1 st inside buttonband sts - see Increasing tips. Then knit 2 short rows garter st over the outermost 5 sts at the center front (do not knit the remaining sts). Then knit all sts - at the same time inc 1 st inside of outermost buttonband sts - see Increasing tips: every row 4 times, every other row 6 times and then every 4 rows 2 times = 13 sts increased for collar - knit the increased sts garter st.
Neckband: At the same time when the piece measures 54-55-56-57-58 cm dec 1 st for neck every other row 10-10-11-11-11 times - see knitting tips.
Armhole: At the same time as you start neck shaping, bind off for armhole at the side as on back.
After all neck and armhole shaping is complete, there are 25-26-27-27-28 sts. When the piece measures 74-76-78-80-82 cm bind off 12-13-14-14-15 sts for shoulder = 13 collar sts remain.
Collar: Continue to knit the collar (it is sewn to back neck later) in garter st as follows: * 2 rows garter st over all sts, 2 rows garter st over only the outermost 8 sts at the center front *, repeat from * - * until the collar measures approx. 5-6 cm at neck edge and approx. 10-12 cm at outer edge. Put sts on a st holder.

Right front: Cast on and knit the same as the left, reversing all shaping. Make buttonholes along buttonband. (1 buttonhole = K tog the 2nd and 3rd sts from center front, yo. On the next row, twist and knit the yo so that the buttonhole will not be too large.) Make buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size S: 13, 23, 32, 41 and 50 cm.
Size M: 13, 23, 33, 42 and 51 cm.
Size L: 13, 23, 33, 43 and 52 cm.
Size XL: 13, 23, 33, 43 and 53 cm.
Size XXL: 14, 24, 34, 44 and 54 cm.

Sleeve: Loosely cast on 23-24-26-26-27 sts on larger needles. Change to smaller needles and knit garter st for 10 cm. Change to larger needles and stockinette st. After the garter st inc 1 st at each side every 5-5-5-4-3.5 cm a total of 8-8-8-9-10 times = 39-40-42-44-47 sts. When sleeve measures 49-48-47-45-44 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time and 2 sts 1 time, then dec 1 st at each side until the piece measures 56 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. The piece measures approx. 57 cm, bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Weave the collar together at center back. Sew the collar to back neck edge to edge. Sew in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams in one, using edge sts as seam allowance.
Sew on buttons.

Belt: Cast on 7 sts on smaller needles and knit garter st until piece measures approx. 120-130 cm, bind off.





SCARF:

Measurements: approx 20 x 180 cm [7 7/8" x 70-7/8"]

Materials: DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
100 gr nr 64, green mix

DROPS 7 mm [US 10½] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 9 sts in Pattern = 10 cm wide.

Pattern:
Row 1: knit
Row 2: knit
Row 3: * K 1, yo *, repeat from * - * across row, finish with K 1.
Row 4: knit all K sts, letting yo from previous row drop (= long st). Repeat rows 1 - 4.

Scarf: Loosely cast on 18 sts. Knit pattern - see instructions above - until piece measures approx. 179 cm. Finish with 2 rows garter st, bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Bregje Winterberg Sonnen wrote:

Bij het patroon hierboven is mij niet duidelijk hoe ik de kraag moet breien. Bij het linkervoorpand: je moet bij de kraag meerderen aan de middenzijde, maar tegelijkertijd ook minderen aan deze zijde. Ik loop nu vast. Kunt u een tekening of video laten zien van hoe de kraag gemaakt moet worden. Moet de kraag los van het voorpand gebreid worden? Of begrijp ik het niet goed?

20.12.2021 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bregje,

Op de foto zie je dat kraag in een v-vorm loopt richting de hals, maar dat de kraag ook breder wordt. Als je hem omvouwt krijg je dus een vouwlijn in de vorm van een v-hals. Hiervoor worden de minderingen gemaakt. Het meerderen doe je vlak na de eerste steek van de kraag, zodat de kraag breder wordt.

06.01.2022 - 11:24

country flag Bregje Winterberg Sonnen wrote:

Drops-wish-mix-13-donker-olijf-blowgaren kan ik deze wol gebruiken voor deze jas?

06.12.2021 - 18:48

country flag Bregje Winterberg Sonnen wrote:

Het garen DROPS Highlander van Garnstudio is niet meer te koop. Welk garen kan ik dan gebruiken? Het is me niet duidelijk.

05.12.2021 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bregje,

Hiervoor kun je de garenvervanger gebruiken. De link hier naar toe vindt je bij ieder patroon onderaan de lijst met benodigdheden.

07.12.2021 - 17:16

country flag Liz wrote:

What is meant by the split when knitting the back?

10.09.2020 - 01:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Liz, the jacket has vents on each side, this mean when piece measures 12 cm you cast on 1 new st on each side on back piece for seam allowance, when sewing pieces together you will sew sides leaving the bottom 12 cm open. Happy knitting!

10.09.2020 - 10:02

country flag Lise wrote:

Hej, når man har strikket begge forstykker med krave, skriver I at man skal sy kraven sammen med maskesting, ville det ikke være bedre at strikke dem ret sammen? I har en video som viser hvordan man strikker glatstrikning sammen, kan den ikke bruges bare i retstrikning, som nu kraven er strikket i? Det er en jakke med meget god pasform og rigtig flot når den er færdig.

19.04.2014 - 19:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lise. Det kan du ogsaa sagtens göre hvis du selv synes det er paenere. God fornöjelse.

22.04.2014 - 17:10

country flag Cindy wrote:

Is the amount of yarn required for this pattern accurate? This pattern says I will need 650 g for XXL of Eskimo which I purchased. When I compare this pattern to pattern #109-8, same length but has a hood, the required yarn is 1300 g of Eskimo for the same size. Even pattern 73-23 calls for more yarn and this is a shorter, more fitted sweater without a collar. I'm worried about starting if I won't have enough yarn.

23.03.2014 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cindy, materials for this jacket is Drops Highlander (50 g/80 m), Drops Eskimo is an alternative (same tension), but is 50 g/50 m. Please click here to know how to calculate required amount of Eskimo for your size. Happy knitting!

24.03.2014 - 09:42

country flag Mai wrote:

Gøy å strikke,god passform.

29.10.2012 - 11:17

country flag Drops Design wrote:

Hi Kathy, 10 sts in width is great, you will not be able to get 16 rows, but that is ok, you will anyways follow the measures in height in the pattern. THe older patterns are not converted into inches through the pattern, and you will need to use a tape measure with inch on one side and cm on the other side. That usually works well.

17.01.2012 - 23:54

country flag Kathy Campbell wrote:

I am able to get the guage for the stitches (10 = 4"), but the 13 rows + 4", using a size 13 needle. Any suggestions?

17.01.2012 - 23:48

country flag Kathy Campbell wrote:

Do I have use CM/Inch converter for each measurement or can I access a page where the pattern is converted for me?

17.01.2012 - 23:46