DROPS Baby / 19 / 35

Flurb by DROPS Design

Crochet plushie in DROPS Fabel

Tags: animals, toys,

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-023-by
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Measurements: length approx 40 cm / 15 3/4''

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g color no 161, pink dream
A remnant color no 100, off-white (for eyes)
A remnant color no 400, black (for eyes)

DROPS HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 24 sc x 25 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
NOTE: Measure when piece is lying flat. The animal will fill out when filled with stuffing

POLY STUFFING – for filling.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.15 CAD /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.15 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.30 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.70 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.30CAD. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
FABULOUS ANIMAL:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of each round with ch 1 and finish each round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

CROCHET SC TOG:
Crochet 2 sc tog to 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in first st, pick up thread, insert hook in next st, pick up thread, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
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BODY:
Beg at the back end of animal and crochet towards the head and trunk. Then crochet ears, legs, tail and eyes, which are sewn on afterwards.

BODY:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and pink dream ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
SEE CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1: Crochet 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 42 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in each of the first 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 9: * 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 54 sc.
ROUND 10: * 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 60 sc.
ROUND 11: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 66 sc.
ROUND 12-14: 1 sc in each sc = 66 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 72 sc.
ROUND 16-21: 1 sc in each sc = 72 sc.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in each of the first 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 78 sc.
ROUND 23-33: 1 sc in each sc = 78 sc.
ROUND 34: * 1 sc in each of the first 11 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog (see above) *, repeat from *-* = 72 sc.
ROUND 35-37: 1 sc in each sc = 72 sc.
ROUND 38: * 1 sc in each of the first 10 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 66 sc.
ROUND 39-41: 1 sc in each sc = 66 sc.
ROUND 42: * 1 sc in each of the first 9 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 60 sc.
ROUND 43-45: 1 sc in each sc = 60 sc.
ROUND 46: * 1 sc in each of the first 8 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 54 sc.
ROUND 47-48: 1 sc in each sc = 54 sc.
ROUND 49: * 1 sc in each of the first 7 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 50-51: 1 sc in each sc = 48 sc.
ROUND 52: * 1 sc in each of the first 6 t sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 42 sc.
ROUND 53-54: 1 sc in each sc = 42 sc.
ROUND 55: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 56: 1 sc in each = 36 sc.
ROUND 57: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 58: 1 sc in each sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 59: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.

Fill the body with stuffing and continue in the round for head without cutting the thread.

ROUND 1: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 32 sc.
ROUND 2: 1 sc in each sc = 32 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 40 sc.
ROUND 4: 1 sc in each sc = 40 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each sc = 48 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 56 sc.
ROUND 8-17: 1 sc in each sc = 56 sc.
ROUND 18: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 19: 1 sc in each sc = 48 sc.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 40 sc.
ROUND 21: 1 sc in each sc = 40 sc.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 32 sc.
ROUND 23: 1 sc in each sc = 32 sc.
ROUND 24: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 25: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 26: * 1 sc in first sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 16 sc.

Fill the head with stuffing and continue in the round for trunk without cutting the thread.

ROUND 1-14: 1 sc in each sc = 16 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 16-17: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 18: 2 sc tog all the way round = 12 sc – NOTE: Crochet in the back loop of st.
Fill trunk with stuffing.
ROUND 19: 1 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 20: 2 sc tog all the way round = 6 sc.
Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

LEGS:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and pink dream ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 4 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3: 2 sc in each sc = 16 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc – NOTE: Crochet in back loop of st.
ROUND 6: 1 sc in each sc = 24 sc – NOTE: Crochet through both loops again.
ROUND 7: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet tog the first 2 and the last 2 sc on round = 22 sc.
ROUND 8: 1 sc in each sc, at the same time crochet the 8th and 9th, 10th and 11th, 12th and 13th and 14th and 15th sc tog = 18 sc.
Continue in the round with 1 sc in each sc until leg measures approx 4.5 cm / 1 3/4'', cut the thread. Crochet 1 more leg in the same way. Fill both legs with stuffing and sew them to the side under the body at the front – see photo.
Crochet 2 hind legs in the same way but finish when legs measures approx 2.5 cm / 7/8''. Fill legs with stuffing and sew to the side under the body at the back.

EARS:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and pink dream ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 42 sc.
ROUND 8-15: 1 sc in each sc = 42 sc.
ROUND 16: * 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 17: * 1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 30 sc.
Place piece flat and crochet 1 sc in each sc through both layers = 15 sc, turn piece and crochet 2 sc tog across return row = 8 sc. Cut the thread and sew ear to the top of head. Crochet 1 more ear in the same way and attach to the opposite side of head.

TAIL:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 ch 20 with pink dream. Crochet 1 tr in 5th ch from hook and continue with 1 tr in each ch, AT THE SAME TIME crochet 2 tr tog across the row – NOTE: When crochet 2 tr tog wait with the last YO and pull through on first tr, crochet next tr and pull the last YO through all sts on hook.
Sew the tail to mid back of animal.

EYES:
With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and black ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 sc in ring.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc, change to off-white.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 24 sc.
Cut the thread and sew the eye to one side at the front of head.
Crochet 1 more eye in the same way, but change to off-white after round 1 and sew to the other side at the front of head.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Julia 20.05.2018 - 10:05:

Hej! Virkinfon säger att man avslutar varje varv med en sm i den första fm. Borde det inte vara med en sm i den första lm? Annars förlorar man väl en fm per varv?

DROPS Design 21.05.2018 kl. 09:37:

Hej Julia, titta gärna på vår video med fm :)

How to crochet a single crochet (sc) US / double crochet (dc) UK in the round from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Dorien 07.02.2017 - 20:42:

In de informatie staat: 'Vervang de eerste v aan het begin van iedere toer door 1 l en eindig iedere toer met een 1 hv in de eerste v van het begin van de toer.' Betekent dat dat ik de hv in de daadwerkelijk eerste v moet maken of in de l die de eerste v heeft vervangen aan het begin van de toer?

DROPS Design 08.02.2017 kl. 13:41:

Hoi Dorien. Je eindigt met 1 hv in de eerste l van de toer (eerste l = 1 v).

Ursula 15.06.2016 - 14:35:

Hab das tolle Stofftier für meinen Sohn gehäckelt und es ist wirklich toll geworden.. Danke für die Anleitung.

Tina 30.01.2015 - 17:17:

Dette dyr har jeg lavet 4 stk, og alle børn er glade for den

Dagmar 17.10.2014 - 06:45:

Hallo, hab mein Wesen fast fertiggestellt, die Anleitung war soweit gut beschrieben, ich bekomme den Schwanz aber nicht so hin wie auf dem Bild, Also ein Doppelstäbchen und mit zwei Schlaufen auf der Nadel lassen? Wenn ich das zweite D.Stäbchen dann damit zusammenhäkele, hab ich einen flachen Minischal in der Breite des Doppelstäbchens, aber platt und nicht eingeringelt....... Wie mach ichs besser?

DROPS Design 17.10.2014 kl. 10:40:

Antwort siehe unten! :-) Viel Spaß mit diesem lustigen Tier!

Dagmar 17.10.2014 - 06:43:

Hallo, hab mein Wesen fast fertiggestellt, die Anleitung war soweit gut beschrieben, ich bekomme den Schwanz aber nicht so hin wie auf dem Bild, Also ein Doppelstäbchen und mit zwei Schlaufen auf der Nadel lassen? Wenn ich das zweite D.Stäbchen dann damit zusammenhäkele, hab ich einen flachen Minischal in der Breite des Doppelstäbchens, aber platt und nicht eingeringelt....... Wie mach ichs besser?

DROPS Design 17.10.2014 kl. 10:38:

Sie können sich zum Zus.häkeln das Video "Stäbchengruppe/Abnahme" unter "Videos" oben im Kopf neben dem Foto anschauen. Hier wird zwar das Zus.häkeln von 3 Stb gezeigt, aber das Prinzip ist ja für 2 D-Stb gleich. Wenn Sie die ganze R hindurch je 2 D-Stb zus.häkeln, müsste sich am Ende das Schwänzchen ringeln, das passiert aber erst, wenn Sie es fertig gehäkelt haben. Probieren Sie ansonsten aus, mehr Lm anzuschlagen und den Schwanz entsprechend länger zu häkeln.

Kristine Qvistgaard 07.03.2014 - 23:53:

Æv., har fortrudt at have lavet rundeskift med en lm i lm fra runden før. Det giver en rydelig og unødig kant., ville hellere have lavet den rundt i ring hele vejen igennem.

Lena 28.02.2014 - 03:50:

Eine Frage: mache ich am Ende einer Runde eine zusätzliche Kettmasche? Oder ersetzt die auch eine Luftmasche? Du sagst, ich steche die in die erste feste Masche der Runde. Was passiert dann mit der Luftmasche, die ich gemacht habe? Steche ich in die gar nicht ein? Und eine letzte Frage: Wozu die Luftmasche und Kettmasche, warum mache ich nicht einfach nur feste Maschen?

DROPS Design 28.02.2014 kl. 09:39:

Liebe Lena, auch hier möchten wir auf unsere Videos verweisen. Wenn Sie weitere Hilfe benötigen, wenden Sie sich bitte an den Laden, in dem Sie die Wolle kaufen, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter.

Lena 28.02.2014 - 03:49:

Tolle Anleitung. Ich bin nur eine Anfängerin und leicht verwirrt von der Häkelinfo. Ich ersetze in JEDER Runde die erste feste Masche durch eine Luftmasche. Heißt das, ich lasse eine feste Masche der "alten Runde" aus, weil da die Luftmasche ist (ja, nicht wirklich, weil sie ja eine Luftmasche ist)?

DROPS Design 28.02.2014 kl. 09:38:

Liebe Lena, bitte schauen Sie sich unsere Tutorialvideos an, dort wird Ihre Frage beantwortet.

Michala Albretsen 12.10.2012 - 14:36:

Hej Drops :) Tror jeg er små dum til at læse men kan simpelthen ikke finde ud af at lave fabel dyrets hale?? Har prøvet men savner sørme en video der viser nøjagtigt hvordan man hækler de dbl-st sammen.. håber i kan hjælpe :) Hilsen Michala :)

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