DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Miriam

Short DROPS top in 2 threads ”Alpaca” with short sleeves and berry pattern. Size S – XXXL.

DROPS 120-25
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-484
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g, colour no 3720, violet

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 sts x 24 rows with 2 threads Alpaca in berry pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON no 522: 3 pcs.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
BERRY PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – Diagram shows the pattern from RS, 1 repeat = 4 sts (first row = WS).
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
INCREASING TIP (applies to side inc):
Make all inc from RS. Inc 4 sts by working 5 sts in 1 st as follows: P1, 1 YO, P1, 1 YO, P1. On next row work sts into M.1
DECREASING TIP:
Make all dec from RS (i.e. on P-rows).
Dec as follows at BEG of row: P5, pass first st over the last 4 sts, pass next st over the last 3 sts, pass next st over the last 2 sts and pass next st over the last st = 1 st left on right needle.
Dec as follows at the END of row: P5 tog.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when front band measures:
SIZE S: 2, 7.5 and 13 cm.
SIZE M: 2, 8 and 14 cm.
SIZE L: 2, 8.5 and 15 cm.
SIZE XL: 2, 9 and 16 cm.
SIZE XXL: 2, 9.5 and 17 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 2, 10 and 18 cm.
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------
BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 108-124-140-156-184-204 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. Insert a marker 20-24-28-32-40-44 sts in from each side (= 68-76-84-92-104-116 sts between markers on back piece).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
P 1 row from RS and continue in BERRY PATTERN - see above – AT THE SAME TIME on row 4 cast on 4 new sts at the end of row (= towards mid front), on next row work the new sts into M.1, then cast on 4 new sts at the end of this row (= towards mid front the other side), on next row work new sts into M.1. * Work 2 rows without inc, then cast on 4 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times. Work 2 rows without inc, then cast on 5 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for front bands = 142-158-174-190-218-238 sts. Continue in M.1 with 5 front band sts in garter st each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
SIDE INC: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx 7 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS) inc 4 sts on the left side of both markers – SEE INCREASING TIP! When piece measures approx 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm inc 4 sts on the right side of both markers, when piece measures approx 13-13-13-15-15-15 cm inc 4 sts on the left side of both markers and when piece measures approx 16-16-16-19-19-19 cm inc 4 sts on the right side of both markers = 174-190-206-222-250-270 sts. Remove both markers.
BUTTONHOLES: AT THE SAME TIME when front band measures 2 cm (piece measures approx 8 cm from cast on row) make BUTTONHOLES on right front band – see above!
When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm work next row as follows from RS: 5 garter sts, P 36-40-44-48-56-60 sts, cast off 8 sts for armhole, P 76-84-92-100-112-124 sts, cast off 8 sts for armhole, P 36-40-44-48-56-60 sts and 5 garter sts. Now complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 76-84-92-100-112-124 sts. Continue in M.1, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts each side for armhole on next row from RS – SEE DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 2-2-3-4-5-6 times = 60-68-68-68-72-76 sts. When piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm cast off the middle 28-28-28-28-32-36 sts for neck and complete each shoulder (= 16-20-20-20-20-20 sts) separately. Cast off when piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 41-45-49-53-61-65 sts. Continue in M.1, AT THE SAME TIME dec for armhole at the side as described for back piece. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from mid front cast off the 5 front band sts. On next row from RS dec 4 sts towards neckline – SEE DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every 4th row a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times = 16-20-20-20-20-20 sts left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 38-40-42-44-46-48 cm, cast off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 50-54-58-62-66-70 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. P 1 row from RS and continue in berry pattern from WS with 1 edge st in garter st each side. When piece measures 4 cm (adjust so that next row is from RS) dec 4 sts each side – SEE DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every 6th row a total of 3 times = 26-30-34-38-42-46 sts. When piece measures 10 cm cast off with K sts from WS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. The sleeve is not long enough to fill the whole armhole – see diagram below - there will be an opening of approx 9-9-11-13-15-17 cm under sleeve. Fold sleeve double and insert a marker in the middle at the top. Beg by placing marker on sleeve towards shoulder seam and sew sleeve to armhole from here and down towards bottom of armhole as far as the sleeve will reach. Repeat the other side. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = From WS: P3, pass first st over the last 2 sts, pass second st over the last st = 1 st left.
symbols = From WS: Work 3 sts in 1 st as follows: K1, P1, K1.
symbols = From RS: P
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 120-25

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Rita Lampens wrote:

Ik zou dit vestje willen breien, maar hoeveel steken moet ik opzetten?Ik heb maar xs, heb geprobeerd met steekverhouding van s. Maar valt te groot uit. Alvast bedankt dat je antwoord, Rita.

31.07.2022 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rita,

Helaas hebben we dit patroon niet in maat xs, dus ik kan helaas niet aangeven hoeveel steken je dan op zou moeten zetten. Om ervoor te zorgen dat de stekenverhouding overeenkomt zoals aangegeven in het patroon, kun je een proeflapje breien en eventueel de naalddikte aanpassen zodat je de juiste stekenverhouding krijgt.

06.08.2022 - 11:55

country flag Helle wrote:

Strikkes knaphul fra ret- eller vrangsiden? Jeg ville formode vrangsiden, så knaphullet kommer midt i forstykket, men det fremgår ikke af opskriften.

17.02.2022 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helle, ja det bliver pænest at strikke knaphullet fra vrangsiden :)

18.02.2022 - 13:40

country flag Mia wrote:

Hallo Drops-Team! Verlaufen die Markierungsfäden im Abschnit" VORDER_ UND RÜCKENTEIL" gleichmäßige gerade hoch, bei mir 76M für das Rückenteil, oder verschieben sich die Markieringsfäden nach rechts und links außen durch die am Rand zugenommen Maschen?Dankeschön für die Hilfe,schön daß es euch gibt.

14.05.2021 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mia, die Markierung sollen nicht verschoben werden, aber es wird beidseitig von den 2 Markierungen zugenommen - siehe AUFNEHMEN AUF DER SEITE. Dann haben Sie 8 Maschen beidseitig zugenonmmen (= 92 M für das Rückenteil in die 2. Größe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.05.2021 - 08:29

country flag Mia wrote:

Hi! Muss ich die 4 neuen Maschen ( "gleichzeitig bei der 4. R. am Schluss der R. (gegen die vordere Mitte) 4 neue M. anschlagen" ) in die letzte oder in die vorletzte Maschen arbeiten? Dankeschön für die schnelle Hilfe,

12.05.2021 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mia, diese 4 Maschen sollen Sie am Ende der 2 nächsten Reihe wie in diesem Video neu anschlagen: 4 Maschen am Ende einer Hinreihe, Wenden Sie und stricken Sie die Rückreihe und am Ende dieser Rückreihe schlagen Sie 4 neue Maschen an. Jetzt haben Sie 4 Maschen beiseitig angeschlagen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.05.2021 - 11:34

country flag Mia wrote:

Hallo Drops-Team! Beim VORDER- UND RÜCKENTEIL:"gleichzeitig bei der 4 R. am schluss der R. ( gegen die vordere Mitte ) 4 neue M. anschlagen.Meine Frage ist nun: Wo befindet sich die "vordere Mitte". Da ich links und rechts jeweils 24M mit dem Markierungsfaden habe und die restlichen mittleren Maschen das Rückenteil bilden.Und bedeutet "gegen die vordere Mitte" - "zur oder weg von der Mitte" ? Dankeschön im voraus für eure Hilfeleistung.

12.05.2021 - 06:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mia, die vordere Mitte ist die Blende, dh beidsietig von der Arbeit. Sie werden beidseitig für die abgerundete Vorderkanten zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.05.2021 - 08:04

country flag Jtempest wrote:

I am confused about the sleeve. When piece measures 4 inches it says "cast in K sets from WS". Does that mean to bind of stitches in K? Thank you

07.03.2019 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jtempest, it looks like there is a typo there, when sleve measures 4", you are supposed to cast off all sts by knitting them from WS. Happy knitting!

08.03.2019 - 07:56

country flag Marie Danneels wrote:

Heb dit gebreid voor mijn schoondochter; het is perfect gelukt en ze ziet er schattig mee. Bedankt Drops !

05.09.2011 - 11:14

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Este patrón aún no ha sido traducido a español, pero la puntada es "punto de moras", que puedes ver en nuestros videos tutoriales. Por favor espera la traducción muy pronto!

19.05.2010 - 20:19

Emma wrote:

Cual es el punto astrakan me lo podrian decir

19.05.2010 - 02:53

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Zie het telpatroon onderaan het patroon. Dat is de beschrijving van het braambesmotief! Succes. Gr. Tine

22.03.2010 - 08:33