DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

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Knitted DROPS Tunic with navy stripes in ”Alpaca” or "Safran" Size S - XXXL

DROPS 120-11
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-486
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 4305, dark indigo
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour no 0100, eco off-white

Or use:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
450-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 09, navy blue
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour no 18, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 threads Alpaca or 2 threads Safran = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm – for garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 176-192-204-220-240-260 sts with 2 threads Alpaca dark indigo or Safran navy blue on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 4 rounds GARTER ST – see above. Change to circular needle size 5 mm and continue in stocking st. Insert 2 markers in piece as follows: 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 88-96-102-110-120-130 sts (the sides). When piece measures 4-4-5-5-5-6 cm dec 1 st each side of both markers (= 4 dec sts) and repeat the dec on every 2.5-3-3-3-3.5-3.5 cm a total of 11 times = 132-148-160-176-196-216 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 31-33-35-37-39-41 cm work a total of 7 vertical repeats of M.1, and then complete piece in off-white. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm cast off 6 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 3 sts each side of marker) and complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 60-68-74-82-92-102 sts. Cast off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 0-1-1-2-2-3 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 st 1-1-1-1-3-4 times = 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm cast off the middle 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
= 60-68-74-82-92-102 sts. Cast off for armhole each side as described for back piece = 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts. When piece measures 60-62-64-65-67-69 cm cast off the middle 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts for neck and complete each side separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 21-22-22-23-23-24 sts. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right side but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-42-44-46-48-52 sts with 2 threads Alpaca dark indigo or Safran navy blue on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 4 rounds garter st. Insert a marker at beg of round. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME work a total of 8-9-9-9-9-9 vertical repeats of M.1. After M.1 complete sleeve in off-white. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7-6-6-6-5-4 cm inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 3-3-2.5-2-2-2 cm a total of 9-10-11-12-13-13 times = 58-62-66-70-74-78 sts. When piece measures 35-35-34-33-32-31 cm cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 3 sts each side of marker) - less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – and now complete piece back and forth on needle. Cast off for sleeve cap each side at beg of every row: 2 sts 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, 1 st 3-4-5-7-7-8 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures approx 41-42-42-43-44-44 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 43-44-44-45-46-46 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves.

NECK:
Pick up 78-78-82-86-90-90 sts round neckline on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca dark indigo or Safran navy blue and work 4 rounds garter st, cast off.

Diagram

symbols = Alpaca eco off-white or Safran off-white
symbols = Alpaca dark indigo or Safran navy blue
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Danielle wrote:

When doing the bind off for the front and back pieces are you only binding off on the knit side only or are you binding off on both knit and purl sides? I’m knitting a size medium. Is there a grand total of 24 bind off stitches between the front and back pieces? Or is there a grand total of 30 bind off stitches for the pattern in a size medium? Does it matter if I do the front first and then the back when I finish the body piece?

14.04.2022 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Danielle, it doesn't matter which piece you work first, between the back or the front pieces. Usually, you bind off only on the right side, unless stated otherwise in the pattern. For the back, you bind off 24 sts for the back and for the front 12+ 4+4 + 2+ 2 = 24 sts. So you cast off 24 sts both for the front and back. Happy knitting!

14.04.2022 - 19:10

country flag Danielle wrote:

After I knit the body piece and I move on to the back piece and the two front pieces, am I knitting in the round or flat? Also for the back piece size medium it says I should start with 68sts and bind off 6 sets with in 3 rows and then have 56sts. Is this a typo or am I understanding it wrong? Is there a video to help with how the back piece and front two pieces are made? I’ve never done anything like it before.

09.02.2022 - 03:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Danielle, Each of the front and back pieces is worked back and forth. When binding off for the armholes in M, you bind off 3 stitches x 1 on each side, then 2 stitches x 1 on each side and finally 1 stitch x 1 on each side. A total of 12 stitches bound off leaving you with 56 stitches. Finish the back piece, then continue each front piece separately. Happy knitting!

09.02.2022 - 07:56

country flag Sandrine GREKOV wrote:

Je tricote ce modèle en M mais en tricotant les manches entièrement en aller-retours. ''À 35-35-34-33-32-31 cm de hauteur totale, rabattre 6 m sous la manche''. Mais lorsque j'arrive à 35cm je n'ai pas encore terminé les 10 augmentations à faire tous les 3 cm. Pourtant mon échantillon est juste. Je ne comprends pas. Pouvez-vous m'aider ? Merci beaucoup.

04.05.2020 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grekov, vous commencez à augmenter à 6 cm puis tous les 3 cm = 2ème augmentation à 9 cm, puis: 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33 cm. La dernière augmentation se fait ainsi à 33 cm, soit 2 cm avant de rabattre les mailles du milieu sous la manche. Bon tricot!

05.05.2020 - 10:24

country flag Sandrine GREKOV wrote:

EN MÊME TEMPS, à 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm de hauteur totale, rabattre 6 m de chaque côté pour les emmanchures (= 3 m de chaque côté des marqueurs) et terminer chaque partie séparément. En tricotant en rond, je rabat les 3 premières mailles qui sont après le 1er marqueur en début de tour, puis les 6 suivantes (3 avant et 3 après le 2ème marqueur) mais comment rabattre les 3 dernières mailles qui sont avant le 1 er marqueur à la fin du tour ? Merci.

28.04.2020 - 04:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grekov, rabattez simplement ces 3 dernières mailles (veillez à ce que votre nombre de mailles pour le dos/le devant soit bien juste) et passez le fil dans la dernière maille, coupez le fil, puis tricotez le dos. Si vous ne voulez pas couper le fil, commencez ce tour par rabattre les 3 m avant la fin du tour + les 3 premières m du tour et 3 m de chaque côté de l'autre marqueur. Bon tricot!

28.04.2020 - 10:34

Berit wrote:

M1 ist natürlich Muster 1! Sonst würde es ja 1 M heissen.

21.08.2016 - 21:47

country flag Birgit Villain wrote:

Bei Modell 120-11 heißt es beim Ärmel 1M 9Mal in der Höhe Stricken. Was ist damit gemeint?

21.08.2016 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Birgit, es ist nicht 1 M sondern M1 bzw. M.1. Das ist der Mustersatz, der unten neben der Schnittzeichnung abgebildet ist.

25.08.2016 - 18:17

country flag Jane Pearce wrote:

Concerning Drops pattern 120-11, I am having difficulty getting started on the sleeves! Which needles (small or long ) should I be using? I seem unable to knit in the round with either. I suspect I am not being very clever, but the short needles are too short and the longer are too long. Any tips about starting to knit in the round for sleeves? I had no bother with the body of the jumper, but I am struggling with the sleeves. Thanks!

07.07.2016 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pearce, cast on and work sleeve on double pointed needles - see video below - you can also use a longer circular needle using "magic loop" technique, see here. Happy knitting!

08.07.2016 - 10:47

Vanda wrote:

Hallo, could this pattern be done with 1 thread of bomull-lin? Thank you.

26.06.2015 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Vanda. Yes, you can, but don't forget to make a swatch first to check your gauge. Happy knitting!

26.06.2015 - 13:29

country flag Dani wrote:

Modello veramente semplice da eseguire anche per chi è alle prime armi, di ottima riuscita anche con cotone Muskat

18.05.2013 - 22:10

country flag Vera wrote:

Det ska vara 2 trådar Safran

05.12.2012 - 14:54