DROPS / 119 / 22

Peach Perfection by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS waistcoat in ”Muskat”. Size S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no R-559

Size: S/M - L - XL - XXL/XXXL

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400 g colour no 10, peach

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm – or size needed to get 17 tr x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Back piece:
Replace first tr on each row with 3 ch.
Edge piece:
Replace first dc on each round with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in the last ch from beg of previous round.
Replace first tr on each round with 3 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in last ch from beg of previous row.

INCREASING TIP: Inc by working 2 sts in 1 st.

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BACK PIECE:
Crochet 78-86-94-99 loose ch with crochet hook size 4 mm and Muskat. Crochet 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 2-2-2-3 ch = 58-64-70-74 tr. Continue with 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 7 cm inc 1 tr each side – see INCREASING TIP, and repeat the inc when piece measures 15 cm = 62-68-74-78 tr. Continue until piece measures 22-23-24-25 cm.

EDGE PIECE:
Crochet 1 tr in each tr along top of back piece, crochet 56-58-60-64 ch, 1 tr in each tr along bottom of back piece, crochet 56-58-60-64 ch and finish with 1 sl st in first tr on the top of back piece. Now crochet 1 tr in each tr from back piece and around each ch band crochet 42-44-46-48 tr = 204-220-236-248 tr in total.
Continue in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 tr in first tr, *1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch, skip 1 tr and 1 sl st in tr at beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 dc in each tr and 1 dc in each ch.
ROUND 3: 1 dc in each dc.
Repeat these 3 rounds, AT THE SAME TIME when edge measures 5, 10 and 15 cm (adjust to a row of dc) inc 34-34-34-36 dc evenly on round – see INCREASING TIP = 306-322-338-356 dc. When edge measures 17-18-19-20 cm (adjust so that next row is a row of dc) crochet 1 row with dc, AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-1-2-1 dc evenly = 306-323-340-357 dc. Now continue in M.1. NOTE! Beg on row marked with 1 in diagram. Work 1 vertical repeat of M.1, cut and fasten thread.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.05.2010
CROCHET INFO:
Back piece:
Replace first dc on each row with 1 ch.
Edge piece:
Replace first dc on each round with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in the last ch from beg of previous round.
Replace first tr on each round with 3 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in last ch from beg of previous row.

Diagram

= tr
= ch
= dc
= Crochet 1 tr, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 more tr in the same st, but wait with last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), work 1 more tr in the same st and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (100)

Sarah Ulkan 30.07.2019 - 14:58:

Ein wirklich schöner Poncho , habe ihn in der Farbe Aubergine gehäkelt und die Anleitung war für mich als Anfängerin wirklich gut zu verstehen Ideal für schöne Sommertage

CHAILLOU 30.03.2019 - 09:15:

Bonjour, je souhaite réaliser ce modèle pour ma fille taille S/M, pourriez-vous me confirmer que le nombre de pelotes à commander est bien de 6 pour un total de 300 gr? Cela me paraît beaucoup pour ce modèle !

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 12:06:

Bonjour Mme Chaillou, tout à fait, il faut bien 300 g DROPS Muskat pour ce boléro en taille S/M. Bon crochet!

Marya 27.02.2019 - 23:31:

Hallo, ik zou graag weten hoe ik weet welke maat ik moet hebben. Is er ergens een tabel met cm. maten en welke maat dit is? Bedankt, Marya.

DROPS Design 28.02.2019 kl. 10:15:

Dag Marya,

De afmetingen staan in de tekening onderaan elk patroon aangegeven per maat. Voor het kiezen van de juiste maat is het het handigst om een bestaand kledingstuk (bijv. een vest of trui) die je lekker zet erbij te maken en daarvan de maten te vergelijken. Voor dit patroon is dat misschien wat lastiger , maar als je een bestaand kledingstuk vergelijkt met een paar andere patronen op onze site, en je komt op bijv. maat L uit, dan kun je voor dit patroon ook maat L aanhouden. (Er rekening mee houdend dat voor dit patroon vooral de schouders, buste, etc, maatgevend zijn.)

Kay Christian 09.05.2017 - 03:45:

I love this pattern, but I need sleeves. is there anyway I can add them to this pattern. Or do you have another pattern like this with sleeves. Thank you for your time.

DROPS Design 09.05.2017 kl. 08:14:

Dear Kay, I would look for a crochet cardigan, maybe a circle one, that have the sleeves crocheted from the body to the cuff, like the 177/10 or 168/12 (that has lacy sleeves) or, the 165/40, (that has more solid sleeves), and crochet the sleeves according to those instructions. I hope this helped. Happy Crocheting!

Susie 27.06.2016 - 14:51:

It has been mentioned how to determines size using a diagram near at the end of the pattern. Is it determined by laying garment flat and measuring the back? Or is it from front lapel around to the opposite front lapel? If the latter is true, then why is that considered as size XXXL? That is closer to an XL or XXL in US sizes. It would be helpful if you could clarify which way to measure the garment: either flat across the back, or flat from lapel to lapel. Thank you.

DROPS Design 27.06.2016 kl. 17:44:

Dear Suzie, the measurements at the bottom of back piece apply to width on back piece only (without edge), ie 44 cm in larger size at the bottom of back piece and 46 cm at the top of back piece after inc. Click here to convert into inches. Compare to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more about sizing on same link as before. Happy crocheting!

Linda Lueders 20.05.2016 - 03:12:

I followed the instructions for the first two rows of the back piece. When I lay it flat it makes a circle. This can't be correct. What have I done incorrectly?

DROPS Design 20.05.2016 kl. 10:39:

Dear Mrs Lueders, back piece is worked back and forth from bottom up. After you have made the fundation chain (78-99, see size), work first row without joining with a sl st, just work back and forth in rows. Happy crocheting!

Sara Stevens 08.05.2016 - 01:45:

On the last round of the edging, are you supposed to skip the last sc of the previous round?

DROPS Design 09.05.2016 kl. 10:35:

Dear Mrs Stevens, after the last sc on round 5 in M.1, start diagram from 1st st again, ie (skip last sc in repeat) and work 1 sc around next 2-ch-space. Happy crocheting!

Sara 16.04.2016 - 12:53:

In the first round of the edging, it says ch 56 on each side. Why chain so many when in the next round I’m only supposed to do 42 dc over those 56 chains. Either I will have ugly gaps between each dc which also makes the armholes very bubbly, or a 7 cm chain left after the 42 dc. How can I fix this?

DROPS Design 18.04.2016 kl. 09:10:

Dear Sara, when crocheting a chain most of the time chains are more tight than your sts will be on next row, to avoid that the first row to be too tight on armholes, you work more chains (56) but will then crochet only 42 dc on 1st row skipping ch evenly. That way, your armholes won't be too tight. If your chains are loose enough, you can then crochet the correct number of sts, or then work more and add a small crochet edge to finish armholes. Happy crocheting!

Maya 26.09.2015 - 03:25:

I´v made the size S/M. But, the other thing is, with crocheting of the hook 4 you do need 350 g of the yarn, NOT only 300, what is written. I was going to make the size L and thank of it I had 350 g and I could fortunately end it. I hope, this will help:)

DROPS Design 30.09.2015 kl. 09:57:

Thank you for this info! Crocheting is so individual technique that is not very easy to count yarn amount correct for everyone - so every feed-back is helpful :-)

Maya 26.09.2015 - 03:22:

Hello:) i´ve just finished this wonderfull piece. I´d like to mention , that the shape of the pattern at the bottom is incorrect. Back piece is actual longer, because during making the beginning of the edge you add 2 rows of tr extra, don´t you?

DROPS Design 30.09.2015 kl. 09:52:

Hello, this piece is really very nice :-)! At the beginning of edge you only make the armholes, there are no extra rows, whole edge is made as one piece. Happy crocheting! Hana

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