DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 117-22
DROPS design: Pattern no EE-282.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS SNOW
1000-1150-1250-1350-1500-1650 g colour no 47m, light beige mix

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS Buffalo horn buttons, no 536:
6-6-6-6-7-7 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
MEASUREMENT TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.
PATTERN: See M.1A, M.1B, M.2A and M.2B. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = cast off 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 28, 36, 44, 52, 60 and 68 cm.
Size M: 30, 38, 46, 54, 62 and 70 cm.
Size L: 32, 40, 48, 56, 64 and 72 cm.
Size XL: 34, 42, 50, 58, 66 and 74 cm.
Size XXL: 28, 36, 44, 52, 60, 68 and 76 cm.
Size XXXL: 30, 38, 46, 54, 62, 70 and 78 cm.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 63-68-72-77-82-86 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 8 mm with Snow. Work 10 rows GARTER ST – see above, 2 rows stocking st, and then 2 rows garter st. Now continue in stocking st. When piece measures 12 cm dec 1 st each side. Repeat the dec on every 8-12-8-12-12-8 cm a total of 5-4-6-4-4-6 times = 53-60-60-69-74-74 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
See MEASUREMENT TIP! When piece measures 46-49-52-48-51-53 cm work PATTERN on next row from WS as follows – see above: 1 edge st, * K3-2-2-3-2-2 (purl from RS), M.1A (= 5 sts) *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-8-8-8-10-10 times, finish with K3-2-2-3-2-2 (purl from RS), 1 edge st. Continue in pattern and inc in cables acc to diagram (= 59-68-68-77-84-84 sts – K sts from WS which are P from RS). After 1 vertical repeat of M.1A continue in M.1B with remaining sts as before. Work a total of 4-4-4-5-5-5 vertical repeats of M.1B. AT THE SAME TIME after the cable row in the last repeat dec 1 st from WS in each cable = 53-60-60-69-74-74 sts. Piece now measures approx 79-82-85-88-91-93 cm. Work 2 rows garter st on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 81-84-87-90-93-95 cm cast off the middle 15-16-16-15-16-16 sts for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 18-21-21-26-28-28 sts left on shoulder. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 83-86-89-92-95-97 cm. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 39-41-45-45-48-52 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) on circular needle size 8 mm. Work 10 rows garter st, 2 rows stocking st with 2 garter sts towards mid front, and 2 rows garter st. Now continue in stocking st with 2 garter sts towards mid front. When piece measures 12 cm dec 1 st at the side. Repeat the dec at the side and inside the 2 garter sts towards mid front alternately on every 4-6-4-6-6-4 cm a total of 9-7-11-7-7-11 times = 30-34-34-38-41-41 sts.
When piece measures 46-49-52-48-51-53 cm work pattern on next row from WS as follows: 1 edge st, * K3-2-2-3-2-2 (purl from RS), M.1A (= 5 sts) *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-4-4-4-5-5 times, finish with P3 and 2 garter sts. Continue in pattern and inc in cables acc to diagram (= 33-38-38-42-46-46 sts). After 1 vertical repeat of M.1A continue in M.1B with remaining sts as before. Work a total of 4-4-4-5-5-5 vertical repeats of M.1B. AT THE SAME TIME after cable row in the last repeat dec 1 st from WS in each cable = 30-34-34-38-41-41 sts. Work 2 rows garter st on all sts, then continue in stocking st with 2 garter sts towards mid front until piece measures 83-86-89-92-95-97 cm. On next row from RS cast off 18-21-21-26-28-28 sts from shoulder towards neckline = 12-13-13-12-13-13 sts left on needle for collar. On next row (from WS) work shortened rows, back and forth on needle, on collar as follows: * 2 rows on all sts, 2 rows on the 7 sts towards neck only *, repeat from *-*. Cast off when collar measures 8 cm (measured on the shorter side) from shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored. NOTE! Work M.2A and M.2B instead of M.1A and M.1B. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 28-30-32-34-28-30 cm make first BUTTONHOLE - see above!

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 30-31-32-33-34-35 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 8 mm. Work 10 rows garter st, 2 rows stocking st and 2 rows garter st. Now continue in stocking st. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st each side. Repeat the inc on every 8-6-5-5-4.5-4 cm a total of 6-7-8-8-9-10 times = 42-45-48-49-52-55 sts. When piece measures 51-49-49-49-48-48 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-53-53-53-52-52 cm, now cast off 4 sts 1 time each side and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 56-54-54-54-53-53 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline. Sew side seams inside 1 edge st, but leave 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm at the top for armhole. Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Set in sleeves. Sew on buttons. If you want the front band slightly firmer, crochet a row of dc with crochet hook size 8 mm along front band each side.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.09.2009
Start working pattern on row from WS:
BACK PIECE:
..........When piece measures 46-49-52-48-51-53 cm work PATTERN on next row from WS as follows.....

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
............When piece measures 46-49-52-48-51-53 cm work pattern on next row from WS as follows......
Updated online: 09.09.2019
See MEASUREMENT TIP! When piece measures 46-49-52-48-51-53 cm work PATTERN on next row from WS as follows – see above: 1 edge st, * K3-2-2-3-2-2 (purl from RS), M.1A (= 5 sts) *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-8-8-8-10-10 times, finish with K3-2-2-3-2-2 (purl from RS), 1 edge st.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO, on next row work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Gillian Hendry wrote:

Am I right in thinking that at the beginning of the cable panel, worked from WS, that it should be knit 3/2 between each cable not purl?

30.08.2019 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hendry, you are right, the stitches between cables should be P from RS and K from WS. Happy knitting!

09.09.2019 - 12:45

country flag Susan wrote:

Got another one for you - once you do add the YO where ever it goes the stitch count increases from 60 to 68 per the instructions. However where do the extra stitches go? The instuction calls for only P2 (med size) before the pattern starts, which would leave the extra 8 at the end of the row, which pushes the cable pattern way off on the next row.

18.03.2018 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, the number of sts will increased due to the inc in M.1A, ie: Continue in pattern and inc in cables acc to diagram (= 59-68-68-77-84-84 sts ..., you are working M.1A a total of 8 times in width = 8 sts will be increased on row 4 in M.1A = 68 sts in size M. Happy knitting!

19.03.2018 - 11:13

country flag Susan wrote:

I have knitted cables before but I am totally mystified by the description of M1.A where is the YO made, in the front of the 3 on the needle, in the middle, at the end. Is the YO on the same row or before it, after? I have tested a small piece for two days now, I don't understand what is happening.

18.03.2018 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, the Yo in M.1A is made on 4th row, ie K2, YO, K3 ( = there are now 6 sts in M.1A). On next row, P YO twisted to avoid a hole. On 6th row work the cable as explained under diagram. Happy knitting!

19.03.2018 - 11:10

country flag Dagmar wrote:

Ich würde mir manchmal etwas einfachere Anleitungen wünschen, wie sie in den strickheften stehen, bin KEINE Anfängern, aber mit euren Anleitungen manchmal sehr verwirrt..es ist eine Anregung, und ich spreche damit vielen meiner Freunde aus der Seele.Danke von einer begeisterten Strickerin😃

19.02.2016 - 17:10

country flag Dagmar wrote:

HILFE 😌 bitte, Wie lese ich das Diagramm richtig? man sieht es nur von der Vorderseite, der MS besteht aus 10glatten Reihen, das würde bedeuten, eine linke reihe ist gleichzeitig meine nächste Rechte Reihe, ODER werden die linken Reihen NICHT mitgezählt, dann würde aber der MS doppelt so lang??? Bin sehr verwirrt.bitte um baldige Antwort.danke😃

19.02.2016 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Die Diagramme zeigen stets alle Reihen, also Hin- und Rück-R. Sie fangen unten rechts an zu lesen und lesen nach links, das ist die Hin-R, dann lesen Sie die Rück-R von rechts nach links usw.

24.02.2016 - 19:47

country flag Annelie Sörslätt wrote:

Nu vill jag veta hur jag ska börja vad menas med3-2-2-3-2-2am,M,1A(=5m)*_*

15.12.2012 - 17:40

country flag Margretha wrote:

Dank voor de reactie. Maar ik snap eigenlijk nog steeds niet hoe ik voor het linker voorpand aan de goede kant vanaf de schouder richting de hals steken af moet kanten. Dit kan toch niet? En wordt de kraag in tricotsteek gebreid?

09.10.2012 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dit staat er in het patroon: Kant in de volgende nld aan de goede kant 18-21-21-26-28-28 st af vanaf de schouder richting de hals. De goede kant van het linker voorpand begint bij het armsgat richting middenvoor. De kraag wordt in ribbelst gebreid net zoals de rand middenvoor.

09.10.2012 - 20:44

country flag Margretha wrote:

In het patroon staat bij het linker voorpand: Kant in de volgende nld aan de goede kant 18-21-21-26-28-28 st af vanaf de schouder richting de hals = 12-13-13-12-13-13 st over op de nld voor de kraag. Brei in de volgende nld (aan de goede kant) verkorte toeren heen en weer op de nld". Ik begrijp niet hoe dit moet, je moet aan de goede kant bij de schouder steken afkanten, maar vervolgens aan de goede kant verkorte toeren breien. Kan dit wel?

02.10.2012 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Je hebt gelijk. De juiste vertaling moet zijn: Brei in de volgende nld (begin aan de verkeerde kant) verkorte toeren heen en weer op de nld, over de st voor de kraag als volgt: ...

04.10.2012 - 13:09

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Doch, genau. Ich habe das gleich umgeschrieben.

27.01.2012 - 09:32

country flag Jutta wrote:

Beim linken Vorderteil steht:nach 46cm von Rückseite wie folgt: 1Randm,*3 M re,M1A*......mit 2M.Krausrippe abschließen. Muss es nicht beim rechten Vorderteil so sein. Beim linken Vorderteil kommen doch in der Rückreihe zuerst die 2M.Krausrippe und dann erst 3re und M1A ....usw ?

26.01.2012 - 19:37