Chocolate Fudge by DROPS Design
Set comprises: DROPS hat and shoulder wrap knitted from side to side with cables and garter st in ”Snow”.
HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx 54 - 58 cm
Materials: DROPS SNOW
150-150 g colour no 23, tan
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 7 mm - or size needed to get 12 sts x 24 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
SHOULDER WRAP:
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Materials: DROPS SNOW
400-400-450 g colour no 48m, beige mix
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 22 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTON no 536:
5 pcs.
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DROPS Snow 100% Wool |
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
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HAT: Worked from side to side, back and forth on needle. Work the first 2 sts from RS with double thread (to make edge firmer) in GARTER ST throughout - see above.
Cast on 38-42 sts on needle size 7 mm with Snow and work PATTERN as follows from RS: 2 garter sts – see above - M.1 (= 14 sts), 22-26 garter sts. Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME work shortened rows, back and forth on needle, with start from RS as follows: * 2 rows on all sts, 2 rows on 36-40 sts, 2 rows on 34-38 sts, 2 rows on 31-35 sts *, repeat from *-*. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue like this until there are 10-11 vertical repeats of M.1, piece measures approx 50-55 cm where longest. Cast off loosely on the last row in the last pattern repeat.
ASSEMBLY: Sew cast on row to cast off row, edge to edge. Run a thread through sts at the top of hat, tighten and fasten.
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SHOULDER WRAP:
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
PATTERN: See diagram M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes when piece measures 2 cm as follows from RS: Work 7-7-7 sts, cast off 1 st, * work 8-9-10 sts, cast off 1 st *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, finish with 3 sts = 5 buttonholes. Cast on new sts over cast of sts on return row.
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SHOULDER WRAP: Worked from side to side, back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 47-51-55 sts on circular needle size 8 mm with Snow. Work GARTER ST – see above - AT THE SAME TIME work the first 2 sts on every row from RS with double thread throughout. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm make BUTTONHOLES on next row from RS – see above! When piece measures 4 cm inc as follows on row from WS: Work garter st on the first 4 sts, inc 6 sts evenly on the next 10 sts, garter st on the next 17-21-25 sts, inc 6 sts evenly on the next 10 sts, complete row in garter st = 59-63-67 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue in pattern and shortened rows as follows from RS: 2 garter sts, P 4 (K from WS), M.2 (= 16 sts), P2 (K from WS), garter st on the next 15-19-23 sts, M.2 (=16 sts), 4 garter sts - AT THE SAME TIME work shortened rows as follows: * 1 row on all sts, 1 row on 20 sts, turn, work return row on 20 sts, 1 row on all sts, 2 rows on 37-41-45 sts, 2 rows on 33-37-41 sts, 2 rows on 29-33-37 sts, 2 rows on all sts, 2 rows on 37-41-45 sts, 2 rows on 33-37-41 sts, 2 rows on 29-33-37 sts *, repeat from *-*. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 128-148-168 cm measured along bottom edge (adjust to after a full repeat of M.2) work next row from RS as follows: Work garter st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly on all cables = 47-51-55 sts. Continue in garter st on all sts. Cast off when edge in garter st measures 4 cm. Sew on buttons.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
under SHOULDER WRAP (explanation of how to work from WS is added):
…Continue in pattern and shortened rows as follows from RS: 2 garter sts, P 4 (K from WS), M.2 (= 16 sts), P2 (K from WS), garter st on the next 15-19-23 sts, M.2 (=16 sts), 4 garter…
Diagram
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= K from RS, P from WS |
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= P from RS, K from WS |
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= slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K4, K4 from cable needle |
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= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K4, K4 from cable needle |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 114-31) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (188)
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 267 catalogues and 9917 patterns - 9909 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Bonjour...les aiguilles demandées sont 8 mm ou numero 8 correspondant à 5mm.merci
DROPS Design
24.03.2021 kl. 08:18:
Bonjour Florence, la taille des aiguilles dans les modèles français sont en système métrique (le même que nous avons en France), autrement dit, des aiguilles 8 sont des aiguilles 8 mm. Bon tricot!Intanto moltissimi auguri per un anno migliore Ancora una domanda le 20 maglie si trovano dal lato del bordo per dare ampiezza e mon dalls parte del collo, quindi quando lavoro il ferro precedente con tutte le maglie mi trovo sul rovescio del lavoro? Grazie mile
DROPS Design
03.01.2021 kl. 12:02:
Buongiorno Filomena, i ferri accorciati si lavorano sulla parte del collo, come può vedere anche dalle foto. Buon lavoro!Sto provando da giorni, manon mi e' chiaro quando di deve lavorare un ferro su tutte le maglie Credo ci vogliano due ferri come indicato quando si lavorano le due ferrate con dolo 20 maglie on 45 maglie con 4q maglie e con 37 maglie a questo punto faccio due ferri con tutte le maglie Correggetemi per favore dove sbaglio
DROPS Design
31.12.2020 kl. 16:08:
Buongiorno Filomena, le spiegazioni sono corrette: deve lavorare 1 ferro su tutte le maglie, 2 f su 20 maglie e 1 ferro su tutte le maglie poi proseguire come indicato. Buon lavoro!Jag misstänker att det kan vara felskrivet i mönstret (till axelvärmaren) på ett ställe. "2 m rätst, 4 am, M.2 (= 16 m), 2 am" För att stickningen ska bli likadan som på bilden ska man bara göra am innan M2 på rätsidan, frn avigsidan ska man göra rm istället, men detta står ej utskrivet.
DROPS Design
16.12.2020 kl. 12:53:
Hei Amanda. Her kunne det ha vært bedre forklart. De 4 vrangmaskene før og de 2 vrangmaskene etter M.2 strikkes vrang fra retten og rett fra vrangen, da vil du få det mønstret du ser på bildet. Vi legger til en endring i oppskriften, takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. God Fornøyelse!Hej! Jag har problem med nederkanten på axelvärmaren. Man ska ju sticka de två första maskorna på den rätsidan med dubbelt garn, men kanten ser inte lika dan ut som den på bilden om man gör det. Inte heller i intrukstionsvideon blir kanten likdan ut som den på bilden , så jag tänker att det kanske kan vara fel i mönstret eller att jag läst fel. Hur ska man göra?
DROPS Design
16.12.2020 kl. 12:54:
Hei Amanda. Se svaret på ditt andre spørsmål over. mvh DROPS designBuonasera, Per acquistare il prodotto finito a chi mi posso rivolgere? Grazie
DROPS Design
10.12.2020 kl. 09:19:
Buonasera Daria, purtroppo il sito non vende prodotti finiti, ma può rivolgersi ai rivenditori DROPS che trova a questo link: sicuramente loro hanno qualche magliaia di fiducia che può confezionare i modelli. Buon lavoro!Hallo leider verstehe ich die Knopflöcher nicht so ganz wie ist das 7-7-7 zu verstehen?
DROPS Design
02.11.2020 kl. 07:33:
Liebe Martina, in allen Grössen stricken Sie zuerst 7 Maschen aber dann nur 8 Maschen in die 1. Grösse, ,9 Maschen in die 2. Grösse und 10 Maschen in die 3. Grösse. Viel Spaß beim stricken![b][/b]
Sorry, verehrtes DROPS-Team, Ich bin verliebt in den Schalkragen mit Mütze, Modell DROPS 114-31. Hab begonnen und die Knopflöcher fertig. ab hier kann ich die Anleitung nicht richtig verstehen. Die Verbindung Zopfmuster zu den verkürtzten Reihen gelingt mir nach Anleitung nicht. Finde ich noch irgendwo Hinweise?. Könnten Sie mir bitte helfen? Das Zopfmuster M 2 muss doch über die gesamte Länge gestrickt werden, das Muster M 1 ist in der Anleitung nicht benannt. Danke
DROPS Design
07.11.2019 kl. 08:23:
Liebe Frau Garlin, Muster M.1 wird nur bei der Mütze gestrickt , beim Schalkragen strickt man nur M.2. Sie werden nach den Knopflöchern verkürzten Reihen auf beiden Seiten stricken, dh die Reihen von *bis* wiederholen, damit Sie mehr Reihen bei dem unteren Zopf stricken, und auch einige Reihe nur über den oberen Zopf (Kragen) stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!Bonjour. Je suis en train de tricoter le chauffe épaules en taille S/M. Il est écrit "a 128 cm de hauteur totale mesuré en bas de l'ouvrage". Est ce qu'il faut mesurer sur la partie la plus longue ou sur la plus courte ? Merci pour votre réponse.
DROPS Design
18.10.2019 kl. 08:57:
Bonjour Sylvie, on mesure sur le côté le plus long = le bas du chauffe-épaules quand on le porte, autrement dit, à droite vu sur sur l'endroit. le côté opposé sera beaucoup plus court, c'est le côté qui fera le tour du cou. Bon tricot!