DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Midnight Rose

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke in 2 threads ”Alpaca”. Size S – XXXL.

DROPS 116-12
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-420.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS ALPACA
550-600-650-750-800-850 g colour no 506, dark grey
100-100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 100, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4 mm – for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. The entire pattern is worked in stocking st.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle with double thread. Cast on 204-222-240-264-288-312 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with 2 threads dark grey. K 1 round and continue in rib, K3/ P3. When piece measures 8 cm change to circular needle size 5 mm. K 1 round AT THE SAME TIME dec 36-42-36-48-48-60 sts evenly = 168-180-204-216-240-252 sts. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 round in dark grey, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-0-8-4-10-0 sts evenly = 164-180-196-212-230-252 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 82-90-98-106-115-126 sts (= the sides). Continue in stocking st with dark grey. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 13 cm dec 1 st each side of both markers (= 4 dec), and repeat the dec on every 2.5 cm a total of 11 times = 120-136-152-168-186-208 sts. When piece measures 44 cm inc 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the inc on every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm a total of 3 times = 132-148-164-180-198-220 sts. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 55-56-57-58-59-60 cm. Now cast off 8 sts each side for armhole (= 4 sts on each side of marker) = 116-132-148-164-182-204 sts. Put piece aside.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-54-54-54-60-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with 2 threads dark grey. K 1 round and continue in rib, K3/ P3. When piece measures 8 cm change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-6-6-6-12-12 sts evenly = 48-48-48-48-48-48 sts. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 dec 8-6-6-4-3-2 sts evenly on round = 40-42-42-44-45-46 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 3.5-3-2.5-2-2-2 cm a total of 9-10-12-13-14-14 times = 58-62-66-70-73-74 sts. Continue until sleeve measures 43-43-42-42-41-41 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off 4 sts each side of marker = 50-54-58-62-65-66 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 216-240-264-288-312-336 sts. Work 3-4-5-5-6-6 rounds with dark grey, and then continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 work 4-4-4-5-5-6 rounds with dark grey, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round dec 41-40-39-63-62-86 sts evenly = 175-200-225-225-250-250 sts. Continue in M.2. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 there are 161-184-207-207-230-230 sts on round. Work 4-4-4-5-5-6 rounds with dark grey, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round dec 29-28-39-39-50-50 sts evenly = 132-156-168-168-180-180 sts on round. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 work 3-4-4-5-5-6 rounds with dark grey, AT THE SAME TIME on the last round dec 56-76-84-80-88-84 sts evenly = 76-80-84-88-92-96 sts.


NECK:
Now work shortened rows back and forth on needle mid back with dark grey. Work row to mid front, insert a marker. K 47-50-52-55-57-60 sts from mid front, turn piece and P 18-20-20-22-22-24 sts on return row. Turn piece, K 27-30-30-33-33-36 sts, turn piece and work P 36-40-40-44-44-48 sts on return row. Turn piece, K 45-50-50-55-55-60 sts, turn piece and P 54-60-60-66-66-72 sts on return row. Turn piece, K all sts to marker. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and now continue in the round for neck. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 26-22-24-20-22-18 sts evenly = 102-102-108-108-114-114 sts. Continue in rib K3 /P3 on all sts and cast off with K over K and P over P when neck measures 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm, measured mid front.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = off-white
symbols = dark grey
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (82)

country flag Lesley wrote:

What are the sizes for this pattern?

31.01.2024 - 00:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Lesley, There is a size chart at the bottom of the pattern with all the measurements for the different sizes. Happy crafting!

31.01.2024 - 06:29

country flag Christiane wrote:

Kann man Pullover Raglan von unten auch von oben nach unten stricken

30.10.2023 - 18:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christiane, wahrscheinlich, hier finden Sie alle Modellen, die von oben nach unten mit Nordischem Muster gestrickt werden, sicher kann das Ihnen inspirieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.10.2023 - 15:43

country flag Laurence wrote:

Bonjour je tricote en S et au col. Il faut compter 47 mailles à partir du milieu devant ; où se trouve le milieu devant ; est ce la 19 eme maille à partir du début du tricot ? de plus on nous dit de tourner le tricot après la 47 eme maille mais je ne peux pas le tourner puisqu on tricote avec des aiguilles circulaires ; suffit il de partir ds l autre sens ?on nous dit mailles env mais la pareil avec les aiguilles circulaires il n y a pas de maille env et que signifie au rang suivant ?

15.06.2023 - 08:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laurence, posez votre ouvrage à plat et placez un marqueur au milieu devant de votre ouvrage, ainsi, vous aurez votre repère pour tricoter jusqu'au milieu devant, puis tricotez 47 m. à partir de là, continuez les rangs raccourcis (=on tricote ces quelques rangs en allers et retours pour que le côté dos du pull soit plus haut que le devant, tournez à la fin de chaque rang comme indiqué pour tricoter alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers) qui se situeront automatiquement au milieu dos. Bon tricot!

15.06.2023 - 09:32

country flag Laurence wrote:

Bonjour j aurais souhaité savoir quelle taille de pull porte le mannequin sur les photos ? merci d avance

07.05.2023 - 01:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laurence, nos mannequins portent en général soit une taille S soit une taille M, mais comme nous sommes toutes différentes, pour trouver votre taille idéale, mesurez un vêtement similaire que vous avez et dont vous aimez la forme et comparez ces mesures à celles du schéma en bas de page. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

08.05.2023 - 08:05

country flag Cunha wrote:

Bonjour, je n'arrive pas à avoir mes 17 mailles même avec une aiguille 6 pour le modèle DROPS 116-12 DROPS design : Modèle n°Z-420, comment faire car j'ai acheté le fil qu'il fallait. Merci pour vos réponses

21.02.2023 - 20:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cunha, essayez de laver (bloquer) votre échantillon (en suivant bien les indications de l'étiquette et du nuancier) pour voir si vous avez une différence, sinon, réessayez avec des aiguilles plus fines (si vous n'avez pas assez de mailles pour 10 cm) ou plus grosses (si vous avez trop de mailles pour 10 cm). Retrouvez d'autres infos ici. Bon tricot!

22.02.2023 - 08:36

country flag Birgit Becker wrote:

Hallo! Ich kann die Maschenprobe nicht finden. Kann mir bitte jemand auf die Sprünge helfen? Danke im Voraus Birgit

15.02.2023 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Becker, ganz gerne, die finden Sie zusammen mit den Größen und NadelNr: Maschenprobe: 17 M. x 22 R. mit 2 Fäden glatt gestrickt = 10 x 10 cm. mit Nadel Nr 5. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.02.2023 - 15:02

country flag Marianne Schmid wrote:

Hei! Aikaisemmissa kysymyksissä ilmeni, että langan voi vaihtaa myös ryhmän c-lankaan (Alaska). Haluaisin tehdä tästä mallista tavallisen puseron mittaisen (noin 40cm kainaloista, ei siis mekkopituutta). Kuinka paljon minun pitää varata Alaska -lankaa? Jotta mittasuhteet sopivat, täytynee siinä tapauksessa myös lyhentää resoreita. Kiitos neuvoista!

04.09.2022 - 04:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, voit tarkistaa langanmenekin ohjeesta DROPS 109-2. Jos teet hieman lyhyemmän puseron voit vähentää langanmenekistä pari kerää.

11.10.2022 - 18:46

country flag Marijke Mooij wrote:

Goeiemorgen. Mijn vraag gaat over middenachter van de hals. Bij het verkort heen en weer breien (recht -averecht ) ontstaan er gaten in het breiwerk bij de hals bij de keerpunten. Hoe kan ik dat voorkomen? Gaten lijken op knoopsgaten. Graag je advies.

10.03.2022 - 10:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marijke,

Dit kun je voorkomen door de draad tussen twee steken op de naald te zetten en deze gedraaid samen breien met de volgende steek. Je kunt ook de eerste steek afhalen, nadat je het werk hebt gekeerd.

10.03.2022 - 12:13

country flag Bret Nelly wrote:

Comment fait on des diminutions avec aiguilles circulaires de chaque côtés du marqueur cela me fait un petit bourrelet merci pour votre aide

15.02.2022 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bret, cette vidéo montre comment diminuer sous une manche, mais la technique peut être utilisée dans d'autres circonstances, essayez de diminuer à 2 mailles d'écart (comme dans la vidéo) pour tenter d'aplanir vos diminutions. Bon tricot!

15.02.2022 - 13:47

country flag Marijke Mooij wrote:

Mijn vraag betreft de mouw: Meerder bij een hoogte van 12 cm 1st aan iedere kant van de markeerdraad. Is die 12 cm inclusief het boordje of moet je na het boordje 12 cm breien en dan meerderen ( dus bij een totaal mouwlengte van 20 cm)? Deze vraag is ook voor de totale lengte van de mouw. Is die 42 cm (inclusief boord) of is het totale mouwlengte 8 cm boord plus 42 cm tricotsteek mouw. Dus een totale mouwlengte van 50 cm. Graag uw toellichting

01.02.2022 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marijke,

Dit is inclusief de boord, dus je meet vanaf de opzetrand. Dit geldt voor zowel de totale lengte als de lengte vanaf waar je moet meerderen.

02.02.2022 - 09:06