DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 6-15
Sizes: 0/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Finished measurements: 56-60-66 (76-80-86) cm

Materials: Garnstudio CAMELIA
(100% lambswool) 50 g
100-100-150 (150-150-150) g. Col. No. 21, red
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. No. 6, light gray
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. No. 7, white
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. No. 16, wine red
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. No. 19, royal blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. No. 27, bottle green
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. No. 36, ocher

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3 mm circular needles and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

6-6-7 (7-8-9) DROPS Inka metal buttons (no. 531).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

CARDIGAN

Gauge: 24 sts and 32 rows on larger needle in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm .

Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from * - *.

Pattern: See chart. (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side out and knit entirely in stockinette st.

Body: Knit the cardigan in the round after the ribbing and cut steeks for armholes and at the center front. Cast on 134-146-158 (182-194-206) sts on smaller circular needles with burgundy, knit 1 row rib. Change to red and knit rib for 3 cm . Change to larger circular needles; join and increase 3 sts at the join (these 3 sts + the 2 edge sts are for the center front steek and should not be knit into the pattern. Place a marker at one side of the 5 steek sts. Knit Pattern M.1a, then M.1b. When the work measures 23-22-25 (28-28-32) cm inc 5 sts on each side for the armhole steeks (these sts are for the steeks and are not knit into the pattern) (back = 66-72-78 (90-96-102) sts, each front = 33-36-39 (45-48-51) sts + steek sts). When the work measures 29-28-32 (35-38-42) cm , bind off the center 12-14-16 (20-24-26) sts + 5 steek sts at the center front for the neck and knit back and forth on the needles. Bind off at the neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Bind off when the work measures 33-33-37 (41-44-49) cm (adjust for complete pattern).

Sleeves: Cast on 40-44-46 (48-48-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles with burgundy, join and place a marker at the join. Knit 1 row rib. Change to red and knit rib for 3 cm . Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 2. At the same time inc 1 st each side of marker: 4-4-6 (7-14-15) times:
Sizes 0/3 mos. + 12/18 mos.: alternately every 7th and 8th row
Size 6/9 mos.: alternately every 11th and 12th row
Size 2 years: every 8th row
Size 3/4 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row
Size 5/6 years: every 5th row
= 48-52-58 (62-76-82) sts. After Pattern 2, continue knitting with red. When the work measures 11-16-18 (19-23-26) cm , knit Pattern 3. The work now measures approx. 14-19-21 (22-26-29) cm . Knit 2 cm reverse stockinette st for a seam allowance over the cut edge on the body, bind off.

Assembly: Sew a marker thread down into the center of the steek sts on each side and at the center front. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 stitch from marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 stitch from 1st seam. Cut up for the armholes and at the center front. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 75-75-85 (95-105-115) sts with red on smaller needle along the left front and knit rib for 2.5 cm , purl 1 row (for the folding edge), 2.5 cm stockinette st. Repeat along the right front, but after 1 cm make 5-5-6 (6-7-8) buttonholes evenly distributed on the row, taking into account that there will be a buttonhole on the neckband.
(1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row -- remember to make corresponding buttonholes on the folded over side.) Fold the forward edge over against the wrong side and sew.
Pick up approx. 70-110 sts around the neck on smaller needle with red and knit rib, but after the first row make a buttonhole over the right buttonband. When the ribbing measures 2 cm , change to burgundy, knit 1 row rib, purl 1 row (for the folding edge), then 2.5 cm rib. Bind off.
Sew sleeves to the body from the right side as follows: Sew alternately 1 st in the last row of knitting on the sleeve before the seam allowance and a st on the body after the machine-sewn seam. Turn the cardigan inside out and sew the seam allowance from the sleeve over the cut edge on the body by hand. Sew on buttons.
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TROUSERS

Size: Entire length = 38-42-47 (52-58-64) cm

Leg length = 18-22-25 (27-35-41) cm


Materials: Garnstudio BABY-ULL
(100% superwash merino wool)
150-200-200 (200-250-250) g. Col. No. 20, royal blue

DROPS 2 mm circular needles and double pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

2 DROPS Inka metal buttons (button no. 531).

Gauge: 28 sts and 38 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm .

Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from * - *.

Border: Knit 3 cm stockinette st with royal blue, purl 1 row (for the folding edge), knit 3 cm stockinette st.

Left leg: Cast on 80-88-88 (96-96-96) sts on double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 10 cm (rib will be folded double and counts as 5 cm in length). Then knit stockinette st. When the work measures 8 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker (inside of the leg) 4 times every 2-3-3 (4-4-6) cm = 88-96-96 (104-104-104) sts. When the work measures 17-21-24 (26-34-40) cm divide it at the marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 90-98-98 (106-106-106) sts. When the work measures 18-22-25 (27-35-41) cm bind off 5-7-3 (5-5-5) sts on each side = 80-84-92 (96-96-96) sts. Put the work aside.

Right leg: Knit like the left.

Trouser: Put the right and left leg together on the same circular needles; join and place a marker at each join. 160-168-184 (192-192-192) sts. Knit 3 rows stockinette st and then inc 1 st on each side of the center back marker (2 sts in from the marker) every other row 6 times, then 1 st every 4th row 2 times. At the same time dec 1 st at the center front marker (1 st in from the marker) every other row 6 times, then 1 st every 4th row 2 times = 160-168-184 (192- 192-192) sts.
When the work measures 35-39-44 (49-55-61) cm dec 24-28-34 (32-32-32) sts evenly distributed on the row = 136-140-150 (160-160-160) sts. Knit Border but after 1 cm make 1 buttonhole on each side of the center front marker 5-5-6 (6-7-7) cm from the marker (1 buttonhole = bind off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row -- remember to make corresponding buttonholes on the folded-over edge), bind off. The work measures approx. 38-42-47 (52-58-64) cm . Sew together the split on the inside of each leg up to the bound off sts and then sew together the opening between the legs from the center front to the center of the back of the trouser. Fold the edge over double and sew.

Suspenders: (Can be omitted if not desired on the three largest sizes.) Cast on 11-11-11 (13-15-15) sts and knit rib for approx. 35-50 cm . Bind off. Knit two. Sew the suspenders onto the last row of the border in the center of the back with approx. 5-8 cm space in between. Sew a button onto each suspender.
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SOCKS

Sock's foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15-16) cm.


Materials: Garnstudio BABY-ULL
(100% superwash merino wool)
50-50-50 (50-50-100) g. Col. No. 19, bottle green

DROPS 2 mm double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 28 sts and 38 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm .

Rib: * Knit 1, purl 1 *. Repeat from * - *.

Socks: Cast on 44-48-48 (52-52-56) sts; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 8-8-9 (9-10-10) cm in rib. Continue with stockinette st.
Heel: Knit 3-3.5-4 (4.5-5-5.5) cm stockinette st back and forth over 22 sts at the center back. Turning the heel (1st row from the right side):
1st row: K 12, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn the work
2nd row: sl 1, P 4, P 2 tog, P 1, turn the work
3rd row: sl 1, K 5, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn the work
4th row: sl 1, P 6, P 2 tog, P 1, turn the work
5th row: sl 1, K 7, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn the work
6th row: sl 1, P 8, P 2 tog, P 1, turn the work
7th row: sl 1, K 9, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn the work
8th row: sl 1, P 10, P 2 tog, P 1, turn the work
9th row: K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog into back of st
= 12 sts on the needles (= 34-38-38 (42-42-46) sts in all). Pick up 8 sts on each side of the heel and put all on the needles = 50-54-54 (58-58-62) sts. Dec 1 st each side of the uppermost 22-26-26 (30-30-34) sts 7 times every other row = 36-40-40 (44-44-48) sts. When the foot measures 8-9-10 (12-13-14) cm from the start of turning the heel, put a marker on each side. Dec 1 st for the toe on each side of each marker (4 decreases per row in all) 8-8-8 (9-9-9) times every row. Pull the yarn through the remaining sts and sew shut.

Diagram

symbols = light grey
symbols = white
symbols = wine
symbols = royal blue
symbols = red
symbols = bottle greeen
symbols = ocher
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (2)

country flag Chris Bassett wrote:

Thank you I have decided to adapt it, I am quite new to fair isle so it was all abit much for my brain.

26.07.2021 - 00:38

country flag Chris Bassett wrote:

I am a bot confused about the change to larger needle. It says Join and increase. But it is a cardigan why join? Can you please help me to understand what is meant hear

25.07.2021 - 01:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chris, if you read through th epattern, you can see that this is a steeked cardigan, meaning it is knitted in the round, with extra stitches at the front and the armholes, where it is later cut up. Happy Stitching!

25.07.2021 - 09:38