DROPS Baby / 6 / 6

Little Ivy by DROPS Design

Sweater, shorts and socks in Safran

BabyDROPS 6-6
Sizes: 0/3-6/9-12/18 months (2-3/4-5/6 years).

Materials: Garnstudio SAFRAN
(100% Egyptian cotton) 50 g./160 m

If the entire set is knit use:
200-200-250 (250-250-300) g. Col. 28, orange
200-200-250 (250-250-250) g. Col. 06, jeans blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 31, pistachio
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 13, coral

If just the sweater is knit use:
100-150-150 (150-150-200) g. Col. 28, orange
50-100-100 (100-100-100) g. Col. 06, jeans blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 31, pistachio
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 13, coral

To knit just the shorts use:
100-100-100 (100-100-150) g. Col. 28, orange
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 06, jeans blue
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 31, pistachio
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 13, coral

To knit just the socks use:
50-50-50 (50-50-50) g. Col. 06, jeans blue

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
SWEATER

Finished measurements: 50-56-62 (72-76-80) cm

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3 mm circular needles and double pointed needles, or size to obtain gauge.

2 SMILY-buttons (orange).

Gauge: 24 sts and 32 rows on larger needle in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm .

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Pattern: See charts. (1 chart = 1 repeat). The patterns are shown from the right side. Pattern 2 is knit entirely in stockinette st.

Body: Cast on 240-288-312 (336-360-384) sts on larger circular needles with orange; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, then knit Pattern 1 (ruffle). 120-144-156 (168-180-192) sts remain on the needles. Now knit Pattern 2 to finished dimensions. When the work measures 26-27-30 (34-37-40) cm , divide the work into front and back. Front and back each have 60-72-78 (84-90-96) sts. Knit each part separately.

Front: = 60-72-78 (84-90-96) sts. When the work measures 32-33-37 (41-47-50) cm , bind off the center 10-12-12 (10-14-16) sts for the neck. Bind off at the neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 (2-2-2) times, 1 st 1-1-2 (2-3-3) times. Bind off all sts when the work measures 36-38-42 (47-53-57) cm .

Back: = 60-72-78 (84-90-96) sts.
3 smallest sizes: When the work measures 30-31-34 cm, bind off the center 4 sts for a split and knit each part separately.
3 largest sizes: When the work measures 45-51-55 cm, bind off the center (24-30-32) sts for the neck.
All sizes: Bind off at the neck edge every other row: 7-8-9 (2-2-2) sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 (0-0-0) time. Bind off all sts when the work measures 36-38-42 (47-53- 57) cm .

Sleeves: Cast on 36-36-38 (42-42-46) sts on smaller double pointed needles with orange; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 2 rows stockinette st, 4 rows garter st, 2 rows stockinette st. Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 3 to finished dimensions and inc 1 st each side of marker 6-9-10 (10-17-18) times:
Sizes 0/3 mos. + 2 years: every 4th row
Sizes 6/9 mos. + 5/6 years: alternately every 3rd and 4th row
Sizes 12/18 mos. + 3/4 years: every 3rd row
= 48-54-58 (62-76-82) sts. When the work measures 12-14-15 (18-22-26) cm , bind off 5 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row: 5-6-7 (7-10-11) sts 2 times, bind off all sts. The sleeve measures approx. 14-16-17 (20-24-28) cm .

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
3 smallest sizes: pick up approx. 10-12-14 sts along the left side of the split in the back on smaller needle with orange and knit garter st for 1.5 cm , bind off. Repeat along the right side of the split, but after 0.5 cm make 1 buttonhole in the center of the placket (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row), bind off all sts. Sew sts together at the bottom of the split.
Pick up approx. 65-75 sts around the neck and over the placket in the back on smaller needle with orange. Knit 4 rows garter st, 2 rows stockinette st, 4 rows garter st, 2 rows stockinette st, but at the same time make 1 buttonhole after the first 2 garter st "ridges" on the right side positioned over the other buttonhole, bind off all sts. Sew on sleeves and buttons.

3 largest sizes: Pick up approx. 75-85 sts around the neck on smaller needle with orange; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 2 rows stockinette st, 4 rows garter st, 2 rows stockinette st, bind off all sts. Sew on sleeves.
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SHORTS

Pattern: (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is knit entirely in stockinette st and is seen from the right side.
Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Border: 3 cm stockinette st, Purl 1 row (= folding-edge), 3 cm stockinette st.

Right leg: Cast on 64-64-72 (78-84-86) sts on smaller double pointed needles with orange; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st. Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 3. At the same time inc 1 st on each side of marker every 1-2-2 (2-3-4) cm 2 times = 68-68-76 (82-88-90) sts. Knit the increased sts into Pattern 3. When the work measures 4-5-6 (5-9-10) cm , divide the work at the marker and knit the work back and forth on the rows. Inc 1 st on each side for the seam = 70-70-78 (84-90-92) sts. When the work measures 7-8-9 (9-10-11) cm , bind off 3 sts on each side = 64-64-72 (78-84-86) sts. Put the work aside.

Left leg: Knit like the right.

Pant: Put both legs on the same circular needles = 128-128-144 (156-168-172) sts. Put a marker between each leg (center front and center back). Knit 3 rows stockinette st, then inc 1 st each side of the center back marker (make the increase 2 sts away from the marker) 5 times every other row, then 1 st every 4th row 2 times. At the same time dec 1 st on each side of the front marker (make the decreases 1 st away from the marker) 7-7-9 (11-12-12) times every other row, then 1 st 2 times every 4th row. Decrease as follows:
Before the marker: K 2 tog
After the marker: slip 1, K 1, psso
= 124-124-136 (144-154-158) sts. When the work measures 24-27-30 (31-33-35) cm , change to smaller circular needles and knit Border, bind off all sts.

Assembly: Sew together the split on the inside of each leg up to the bound off sts and then sew shut the opening between the legs from the center front to the center back on the pant. Fold the border edge over double against the wrong side and sew. Pull an appropriate length of elastic through the waistband.
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SOCKS:

Sock's foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15-17) cm


DROPS 2.5 mm and 3 mm double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 24 sts and 32 rows on larger needle in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm .

Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from * - *.

Socks: Cast on 38-40-42 (42-44-48) sts on smaller needle; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 1.5-1.5-1.5 (2-2-2) cm rib. Change to larger needle and knit stockinette st until the work measures 12-13-13 (13-14-14) cm . Dec 0-2-2 (0-0-4) sts evenly distributed over the next row = 38-38-40 (42-44-44) sts.
Heel: Knit 3-3.5-4 (4.5-5-5) cm stockinette st back and forth over 18 sts in the center of the back. Turning the heel (work 1st row from right side):
1st row: K 10, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn the work
2nd row: Sl 1, P 4, P 2 tog, P 1, turn the work
3rd row: Sl 1, K 5, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn the work
4th row: Sl 1, P 6, P 2 tog, P 1, turn the work
5th row: Sl 1, K 7, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn the work
6th row: Sl 1, P 8, P 2 tog, P 1, turn the work
7th row: K 2 tog, K 8, K 2 tog into back of st = 10 sts on the needles. Pick up 8-9-10 (11-12-12) sts on each side of the heel and set all sts on the needles = 46-48-52 (56-60-60) sts. Dec 1 st on each side of the uppermost 20-20-22 (22-24-24) sts which are knit in stockinette st (these sts centered on top of the foot can also be knit in rib to make the sock more elastic) every row 3-4-4 (6-6-6) times = 40-40-44 (44-48-48) sts. When the foot measures 7-8-9 (10-11-13) cm from the start of the heel turning, shape the toe: Knit stockinette st, put 4 markers evenly distributed around the toe, dec 1 st by knitting the 2 sts before each marker together (= 4 bound off sts per row), every row 8-8-9 (9-9-9) times = 8-8-8 (8-12-12) sts. Pull the a double strand of yarn through the last sts and sew shut.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.05.2018
Correction: the measurements for where to cast off for neckline at the back piece has been corrected in the 3 largest sizes.

Diagram

= coral
= pistachio
= jeans blue
= orange, K
= orange, P
= K 2 tog
= Slip 1, knit 1, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 6-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Agnes Tamisier 17.01.2019 - 16:21:

Le diagramme M2 montre deux bandes de fleurs, la photo du modèle en montre cinq ! Que convient -il de faire ? En tenant compte que j'ai acheté le nombre de pelotes indiqué (je ne fais que le pull en taille 2 ans) soit 150 gr Orange, 100 gr Bleu, 50 gr Pistache et 50 gr Corail. Merci

DROPS Design 18.01.2019 kl. 08:05:

Bonjour Mme Tamisier, vous répétez M.2 en hauteur jusqu'à la fin, en fonction de la taille, vous pourrez avoir un nombre différent de fleurs. Bon tricot!

Päivi Alison 15.05.2018 - 02:22:

I’ve just come to the back (neck) of Little Ivy pattern size 5/6. Strangely it tells me to bind if the middle stitches at 40cm while at the front it was at 50cm. Surely that is a mistake - the front can’t be 10cm higher than the back? My plan is to make a size 12/18mths jumper as well and that tells me to split the back at 34cm while the front is at 37cm. So in both you’d have the neck at the front coming high up with back opening much much lower; 10cm for the bigger size!

DROPS Design 15.05.2018 kl. 08:58:

Dear Mrs Päivi, middle sts for neck should be bound off on back piece when piece measures 45-51-55 cm in the 3 largest sizes, ie 55 cm in larger size and not 40 cm, pattern will be edited asap. Happy knitting!

Dorte 27.12.2016 - 19:52:

Hvor finder jeg diagrammet?

DROPS Design 30.12.2016 kl. 12:27:

Hej Dorte. Vi skal faa tilföjet det danske efter juleferien. Indtil da kan du bruge diagrammet paa den norske opskrift her

Susanne Lindgren 12.02.2016 - 17:51:

Namnförslag till modellen: Tutti frutti /Susanne

Susanne Lindgren 12.02.2016 - 15:59:

Hej! Jag tycker att det är svårt att förstå förklaringen till ökningarna efter att man fått 18 fm. Sedan förstår jag inte. Hur många fm har man efter nästa ökning? Ni får gärna förklara om ni vill, men jag kommer att prova mig fram. /Susanne

Annika 18.05.2015 - 21:30:

Hallo, Gelten die cm-Angaben bei der Mütze ab der Mitte oder ist die gesamte Breite (Durchmesser) gemeint? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 18.05.2015 kl. 23:34:

Die cm-Angaben beziehen sich immer auf die Mitte. Das wird in der Anleitung gleich ergänzt. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln und gutes Gelingen!

Lena Wik 14.04.2013 - 18:43:

Började virka hatten, men hur många maskor skall jag ha/varv när jag ökat färdigt. Finns inget angivet i mönstret.

DROPS Design 03.05.2013 kl. 16:38:

Det finnes ikke i mønstret. Men virkar du med den rette stickfasthet til 7,5-8,5-9 (10,5-10,5-11) fra midten så kommer storlekan også til at passe

Drops Design 28.06.2007 - 14:41:

Hei! Dette er en gammel oppskrift og jeg finner ingen rettelser på denne. Maskeantallet skal derfor være riktig. Det beste jeg kan anbefale deg er å sjekke at du overholder strikkefastheten og evt. prøve deg frem med tynnere pinner. Lykke til! Med vennlig hilsen Garnstudio AS / Drops Design

Asbjørg Hansen 27.06.2007 - 20:42:

Kan det være feil på maskeantallet på størrelsene,det blir for stort selv om jeg går ned på pinnetykkelse

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