Cinnamon Toast

DROPS jacket with V-neck and ¾ or long sleeves in ”Classic Alpaca”, "DROPS ♥ You #3" or "Belle" or "Puna". Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 112-26
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-104-118-130 cm / 31½’’-34 5/8’’-37¾’’-41¾’’-46½’’-51’’
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’

Materials: DROPS CLASSIC ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 618, light beige:
¾ sleeves: 400-450-500-550-650-700 g
Long sleeves: 450-500-550-600-700-750 g

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
No 05, brown
3/4-long sleeves:
300-350-400-450-500-550 g
Long sleeves:
350-400-450-450-550-600 g

Or use:
DROPS ♥ You #3 from Garnstudio
No 02, beige
3/4-long sleeves: 250-300-300-400-400-450 g
Long sleeves: 300-300-400-400-450-450 g

Or use:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio
No 02, beige
3/4-long sleeves:
250-300-350-400-450-450 g
Long sleeves:
300-350-400-400-450-500 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4 mm / US 6 (60 cm / 24’’) – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTONS no 537: 5 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASING TIP (neckline):
Make all dec from RS as follows:
Dec before 8 front band sts: K2 tog.
Dec after 8 front band sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th and 5th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 8, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm / 3 1/8”, 5½”, 8”, 10¼” and 12½”.
SIZE M: 9, 15, 21, 27 and 33 cm / 3½”, 6”, 8¼”, 10 5/8” and 13”.
SIZE L: 10, 16, 22, 28 and 34 cm / 4”, 6¼”, 8¾”, 11” and 13 3/8”.
SIZE XL: 7, 14, 21, 28 and 35 cm / 2¾”, 5½”, 8¼”, 11” and 13¾”.
SIZE XXL: 8, 15, 22, 29 and 36 cm / 3 1/8”, 6”, 8¾”, 11 3/8” and 14¼”.
SIZE XXXL: 10, 17, 24, 31 and 38 cm / 4”, 6¾”, 9½”, 12¼” and 15”.
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BACK PIECE
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 104-112-120-130-144-156 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 thread Classic Alpaca, Belle, or Puna. Work 2 rows stockinette st, 4 rows garter st – see above - and now continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8’’ dec 1 st each side on every 3-3-3.5-3.5-3.5-3.5 cm / 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1¼”-1¼”-1¼”-1¼” a total of 9 times = 86-94-102-112-126-138 sts. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm / 14½’’-15’’-15¼’’-15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’ bind off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-3-5-7-9 times and 1 st 0-1-2-2-4-5 times = 76-78-80-82-84-86 sts. When piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm / 21’’-21 5/8’’-22½’’-23¼’’-24’’-24¾’’ work next row as follows from RS: stockinette st on the first 21-21-20-20-20-20 sts, garter st on the next 34-36-40-42-44-46 sts, stockinette st on the remaining 21-21-20-20-20-20 sts. Continue like this until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼’’-22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’ bind off the middle 16-18-22-24-26-28 sts for neck and bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 29-29-28-28-28-28 sts left on each shoulder (8 garter sts left towards neckline). Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 60-64-68-73-80-86 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 thread Classic Alpaca or Belle or Puna. Work 2 rows stockinette st, 4 rows garter st and continue as follows from RS: 52-56-60-65-72-78 stockinette sts, 8 garter sts (= front band). When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8’’ dec 1 st at the side as described for back piece = 51-55-59-64-71-77 sts. When piece measures approx 33-34-35-36-37-39 cm / 13”-13 3/8”-13¾”-14¼”-14½”-15¼” work 2 rows garter st on the 8 front band sts only. Continue on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st inside front band sts – SEE DECREASING TIP! – on every 1 cm / 3/8’’ a total of 17-18-20-21-22-23 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm / 14½’’-15’’-15¼’’-15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’ bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. When all dec are complete there are 29-29-28-28-28-28 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored, and make BUTTONHOLES – see above.

¾ SLEEVE:
For long sleeves, see below.
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 thread Classic Alpaca or Belle or Puna. Work 2 rows stockinette st, 4 rows garter st and then continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8’’ inc 1 st each side on every 3-2.5-2-1.5-1.5-1 cm / 1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-½”-½”-3/8” a total of 9-10-12-14-15-16 times = 72-76-82-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 33-33-32-32-29-28 cm / 13”-13”-12½”-12½”-11 3/8”-11” - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4-4-5-6-4-4 times, 1 st 0-1-0-0-8-11 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 39-40-40-41-41-42 cm / 15¼”-15¾”-15¾”-16 1/8”-16 1/8”-16½”, now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 40-41-41-42-42-43 cm / 15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-16½’’-17’’.

LONG SLEEVE:
For ¾ sleeves, see above.
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 50-52-54-56-58-58 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 thread Classic Alpaca or Belle or Puna. Work 2 rows stockinette st, 4 rows garter st and then continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 5 cm / 2’’ inc 1 st each side on every 4-3.5-3-2.5-2-2 cm / 1½’’-1¼’’-1 1/8’’-7/8’’-3/4’’-3/4’’ a total of 11-12-14-16-17-19 times = 72-76-82-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 49-49-48-48-45-44 cm / 19¼”-19¼”-19”-19”-17¾”-17¼” - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4-4-5-6-4-4 times, 1 st 0-1-0-0-8-11 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm / 21 5/8’’-22’’-22’’-22½’’-22½’’-22¾’’, now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 56-57-57-58-58-59 cm / 22’’-22½’’-22½’’-22¾’’-22¾’’-23¼’’.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons to fit buttonholes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (61)

country flag Maria wrote:

Bardzo dziękuję za błyskawiczną pomoc. Pozwolę sobie jeszcze zauważyć, że 8 oczek zamkniętych na podkrój rękawa nie daje 8 cm jak na schemacie tylko niecałe 4. Zabieram się za prucie prawie całego lewgo przodu. Pozdrawiam 😢

16.05.2023 - 10:19

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Mario, nikt nie lubi prucia :) Co do tych oczek zamkniętych na podkrój rękawa to może miara dotyczy ogólnie szerokości otworu na rękaw, widok z boku, ale wyjaśnię to również. Miłej pracy!

16.05.2023 - 12:00

country flag Maria wrote:

Na przodzie zaczynamy od 64 oczek, (8 obszycia i 56 dżersejem). Na wysokości 8 cm odejmujemy 1, zostaje 55, na dekold odejmujemy 18, zostaje 37, na podkrój pachy 8 (3+2+2+1), zostaje 29 dżersejem plus 8 obszycia. Zanim zadałam pytanie przeczytałam opis kilkakrotnie i nie znalazłam informacji gdzie należy zgubić te 8 oczek. Gdzie jest błąd?

15.05.2023 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Mario, masz rację. Sweter ma kształt trapezu, a na przodzie pominięto zamykanie oczek na zwężanie się boków (jeszcze przed podkrojem rękawów). Powinno być tak: LEWY PRZÓD: …’Na wys. 8 cm zamknąć 1 oczko z boku jak z tyłu; powtarzać zamykanie oczek 9 razy co 3-3-3,5-3,5-3,5-3,5 cm = 51-55-59-64-71-77 oczek.’ Dziękuję za Twoją czujność. Już zgłaszam korektę. Pozdrawiam!

16.05.2023 - 08:21

country flag Maria wrote:

Robię rozmiar M. Czy to napewno tak ma być że na ramię nie licząc obszycia ma zostać z tyłu 21 oczek, z przodu 29? To jest 3,6 cm różnicy. Z tyłu mam 10 cm, z przodu prawie 14.

15.05.2023 - 01:54

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Mario, i na przodzie i na tyle zostaje na ramię 29 oczek. W te oczka wlicza się również 8 oczek obszycia (tyłu i przodu). Pozdrawiamy!

15.05.2023 - 08:46

country flag Rosi wrote:

Hallo, Wieviel Maschen werden beim Ärmel am Ende in etwa abgekettet? Danke und liebe Grüße Rosi

16.01.2023 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rosi, es hängt von Ihrer Maschenprobe in der Höhe ab, aber das wichtigste ist hier, daß Sie die genauen Höhen in cm folgen, z.B. daß Sie 2 Maschen beidseitig abketten bis der Ärmel die richtige Länge misst - beachten Sie nur, daß Sie die selbe Maschenanzahl beidseitig abgekettet haben, dann ketten Sie 3 Maschen beidsetig und endlich die restlichen Maschen ab . Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.01.2023 - 16:47

country flag Rosita wrote:

Buonasera, sto eseguendo la manica a 3/4 , alla fine per la chiusura però non specificate il numero di maglie che rimangono sul ferro da chiudere, grazie 👋

01.05.2022 - 00:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rosita, no, non viene precisato il numero di maglie finali sulla manica. Buon lavoro!

01.05.2022 - 23:27

country flag Rosita wrote:

Buonasera, sto eseguendo la manica a 3/4 , alla fine per la chiusura però non specificate il numero di maglie che rimangono sul ferro da chiudere, grazie 👋

29.04.2022 - 20:12

country flag Rosita wrote:

Buonasera, non mi ritrovo con la vostra spiegazione per lo scollo, sono sulla parte sinistra, voi scrivete: \" Diminuire prima delle 8 m del bordo davanti: 2 m insieme a dir.\r\nDiminuire dopo le 8 m del bordo davanti:\"quindi quale delle due fare? Io mi ritrovo a prendere due maglie insieme prima del bordino, anche perché dopo il ferro è finito, spero di essere stata chiara, grazie saluti

11.04.2022 - 22:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rosita, deve diminuire prima del bordo davanti. Buon lavoro!

11.04.2022 - 22:35

country flag Anneke wrote:

Ik begrijp het volgende niet: bij het achterpand moet je bij 57 cm breien: 20 steken tricotsteek, dan 40 voor de halsbies en dan weer 20 tricotsteek voor de schouder. Dan de middelste 22 steken afkanten. Er zouden dan naast de 8 ribbelsteken voor de hals nog. 28 (!!!) steken overblijven voor de schouders. Hoe kan dat, als je eerder 20 tricotsteek moet breien. Dan kom je toch 8 steken te kort? Snap er niks van!😬

13.09.2021 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

Je breit eerst een aantal naalden ribbelsteek over de middelste 40 steken en later kant je van die 40 steken de middelste 22 steken af. Aan de halskant heb je dus op beide schouders nog een stukje ribbelsteek, dit zijn de biessteken die straks doorlopen met de ribbelsteken van de bies op het voorpand.

17.09.2021 - 10:03

country flag Corinna wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, im Rumppfteil sollen die Abnahmen durch Abketten passieren: "Nach 8 cm auf beiden Seiten 1 M. abk." Hat das einen besonderen Grund oder kann ich auch einfach "normal" durch Zusammenstricken von zwei Maschen abnehmen? vielen Dank & viele Grüße - Corinna

05.03.2021 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Corinna, ja genau, diese Maschen werden abgenommen, nicht abgekettet -danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.03.2021 - 13:11

country flag Uli wrote:

Hallo zusammen, ich verstehe leider beim linken Vorderteil die Formulierung "Nach ca. 33-34-35-36-37-39 cm 2 R. re. nur über die 8 Blendenm stricken (damit der Kragen schöner fällt)." nicht. Danke und Gruß Uli

24.01.2021 - 19:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulli, damit der V-Halsausshnitt schön liegt, wird man hier nur 2 verkürzten Reihen stricken (= die 8 Blendemaschen stricken, wenden, diese Maschen stricken, wenden) dann wie zuvor (und wie beschrieben) über alle Maschen nochmal weiterstricken.Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2021 - 10:42