DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Ravel Kids

DROPS bolero in garter st in 2 threads ”Kid-Silk”, knitted in one piece. Size 7 to 14 years.

DROPS 113-9
Size: 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Size in cm: 122/128-134/140-146/152-158/164
Materials: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-100-100 g colour no 06, light grey/green
And use: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes colour no 29, light grey/green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 32 rows in garter st with 2 threads Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm – for borders.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

DECREASING TIP: Dec 1 st towards mid front inside 1 st by K2 tog.
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BOLERO: Worked in 1 piece in garter st. Beg at bottom of back piece, inc for sleeves, dec for neckline, cast off sleeve sts and complete piece by knitting the front pieces. In order to fit in all sts work piece back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE: Cast on 60-64-66-70 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 5 with 2 threads Kid-Silk. Continue in garter st – see above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 14-15-16-17 cm cast on new sts each side at the end of every row: 1 st 1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 2-2-1-1 times, 4 sts 2-2-2-1 times, 6 sts 2-1-2-2 times, 8 sts 0-1-1-2 times and 10-12-14-15 sts 1 time = 130-142-156-170 sts on needle. Continue until piece measures 29-31-33-35 cm. Now cast off the middle 14 sts for neck = 58-64-71-78 sts left on each shoulder/sleeve. Slip sts from one shoulder/sleeve on a stitch holder.

FRONT PIECE 1: = 58-64-71-78 sts. Work 1 cm and insert a marker in piece = middle of shoulder. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When piece measures 11-12-13-14 cm cast off sleeve sts at the beg of every row from sleeve edge: 10-12-14-15 sts
1 time, 8 sts 0-1-1-2 times, 6 sts 2-1-2-2 times, 4 sts 2-2-2-1 times, 2 sts 2-2-1-1 times and 1 st 1-1-1-1 time = 23-25-26-28 sts left on needle.
When piece measures 22-23-25-26 cm dec 1 st towards mid front to shape the front piece – SEE DECREASING TIP – and repeat the dec on every 4th row 2-3-3-3 times, then on every other row 4-4-4-6 times and then on every row 8-8-8-8 times = 8-9-10-10 sts left on needle. Cast off on next row.

FRONT PIECE 2: Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and work like front piece 1, but mirrored.

ASSEMBLY: Fold bolero double by shoulder and sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st.

CROCHET BORDER: Crochet a border round the opening with crochet hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Viscose as follows:
Round 1: * 1 dc, 3 ch, skip approx 1 cm *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
Round 2: 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop from previous round, * 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 5 ch and 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
Crochet a similar border round both sleeve edges.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Vegnaduzzi wrote:

Pourriez vous m\'expliquer pour le modèle drops 113.9.modeles je suis à l\'encolure et après je n\'arrive plus c\'est pour les devant de manches.je ne peux pas continuer et je voudrais le finir pour le 22 juin pour ma petite fille c\'est le petit boléro merci d\'avance

06.06.2023 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vegnaduzzi, lorsque vous avez rabattu les mailles de l'encolure dos, vous avez 58-64-71-78 m (cf taille) de chaque côté pour les devants. Mettez un marqueur au milieu de ces mailles, il servira de repère pour mesurer la longueur du devant. Tricotez toutes les mailles puis rabattez les mailles de la manche en début de rang (si vous tricotez le devant gauche = en début de rang sur l'envers), puis, commencez à diminuer pour l'encolure (pour le devant gauche = en début de rang sur l'endroit). Reprenez les mailles du devant droit et rabattez les mailles de la manche en début de rang sur l'endroit et diminuez pour l'encolure en fin de rang sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

07.06.2023 - 08:54

country flag Ann wrote:

Hej Räknat på minsta storleken med maskökningar får till endast totalt 120 men enligt mönstret ska det vara 130. Vad är det rätta eller har jag missat något?

13.12.2021 - 09:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ann. Det ska bli 130 m; 60+2+8+16+24+20= 130 m. Mvh DROPS Design

13.12.2021 - 10:33

country flag Ghita Snedker wrote:

Kan ikke få strikkefastheden til at passe - er 32 p en fejl?I andre opskrifter med 2 tråde kidssilk er d. 22 p og den kan jeg få til at passe

12.02.2021 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ghita, du får flere pinde i retstrik på 10 cm end glatstrik. :)

16.02.2021 - 15:26

country flag Patricia wrote:

Hej, hvilken længe rundkindet skal man anvende til str. 13/14 år?

22.01.2021 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Patricia, du kan bruge 60 eller 80 cm :)

26.01.2021 - 16:12

country flag Patricia wrote:

Drops Cotton Viscose ist leider nicht mehr im Sortiment und mich überfordert gerade die Auswahl der Garnalternative. Haben Sie einen Rat, welche Wolle sich für die Häkelkante ersatzweise am besten eignen würde? Danke!

11.01.2019 - 11:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Patricia, benutzen Sie unserern Garnumrechner, um die unterschiedliche Alternativen zu finden - Ihr DROPS Laden wird Ihnen auch gerne den passenden Garn empfehlen, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.01.2019 - 12:32

Karin wrote:

Kann man den Bolero auch mit langen Ärmels stricken?

18.03.2018 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Karin, gerne können Sie die Anleitung selber anpassen. Leider können wir keine individuellen Umrechnungen vornehmen, wenden Sie sich mit diesem Wunsch bitte an den Laden, in dem Sie die Wolle kaufen oder doch ein anderes Modell aussuchen. Vielen Dank für Ihr Verständnis.

19.03.2018 - 11:07

country flag Ulrike wrote:

Guten Tag, in dieser Anleitung ist leider ein Fehler: beim 1. Vorderteil an der Stelle "nach 11-12-13-14 cm auf BEIDEN Seiten am Anfang jeder R. für den Ärmel abk." Man soll ja nicht beidseitig abketten, sondern nur auf EINER Seite, unten bzw. vorne am Ärmel. Richtig muss es heißen: "die Ärmel abk. – vorne am Ärmel anfangen" Können Sie das bitte überprüfen und ändern? Dankeschön! In der Anleitung für den Erwachsenen-Bolero steht es richtig. :)

12.03.2018 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulrike, es stimmt, Anleitung wird korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.03.2018 - 13:18

country flag Andrea wrote:

Hallo, ich würde den Bolero gern für ein Fest stricken, brauche dazu aber ein rein weißes Garn. Welches würdet ihr vorschlagen? Danke Andrea

03.01.2018 - 06:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, für persönnliche Hilfe um eine Farbe bzw Garn zu finden, nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.01.2018 - 14:11

country flag Pamela wrote:

Bonjour, Il me reste de la laine 2 pelote de laine air penssez vous que je puisse faire ce modèle?? Car la laine recommandé c'est kid silk

09.02.2017 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pamela, 1 fil du groupe C (Air par ex) peut remplacer 2 fils du groupe A (comme Kid-Silk ici) - calculez ici la quantité nécessaire. Bon tricot!

09.02.2017 - 13:17

country flag Marian wrote:

Thank you for answering my last question. I am crocheting row 2 of the trim so I am almost finished ! My question is about: *5ch, 1 sc in next ch-loop*. Does this mean 1 sc in the very next ch next to the last one.....or first ch in next "section " ? Thank you

16.07.2015 - 02:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marian, you work 1 sc around the next ch-loop (insert crochet under ch-loop to crochet the sc), then crochet 5 ch, and repeat 1 sc around next ch-loop, 5 ch... Happy crocheting!

27.07.2015 - 14:03