DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton |
2.15 € /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton 2.15 € /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= K2 tog, 1 YO | |
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso | |
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Endless Summer |
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DROPS dress in ”Muskat” with lace pattern, short sleeves and crochet borders. Size XS - XXL.
DROPS 111-4 |
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GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2 – the diagrams show the pattern from the RS. DECREASING TIP-1: Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog. Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. NOTE! Make sure not to shift P sts in M.1 when decreasing. DECREASING TIP-2: Make all dec from RS inside 9 pattern sts and 3 garter sts = 12 sts. Dec as follows before 12 sts: K2 tog. Dec as follows after 12 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st on each side of st with marker by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole. ---------------------------------------------------------- DRESS: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 204-216-240-252-276-288 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Muskat. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and continue in M.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 18-18-18-20-22-26 cm insert 6 markers in piece as follows: Work 32-34-38-40-44-46 sts, insert Marker-1, work 37-39-43-45-49-51 sts, insert Marker-2, work 33-35-39-41-45-47 sts, insert Marker-3 in the last of these sts (= the side), work 32-34-38-40-44-46 sts, insert Marker-4, work 37-39-43-45-49-51 sts, insert Marker-5, work 33-35-39-41-45-47 sts, insert Marker-6 in the last of these sts (= the other side). On next round dec 1 st on each side of Marker-3 and -6 (i.e. at the sides) – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 – and repeat the dec on every 6th round a total of 13-12-14-13-11-10 times. AT THE SAME TIME when doing the 8-7-9-8-6-5 dec, also dec 1 st by the other markers as follows: AFTER Marker-1 and Marker-4 and BEFORE Marker-2 and Marker-5 – SEE DECREASING TIP-1. Repeat these dec on every 6th round (i.e. on the same rounds as dec at the sides) a total of 6 times. When all dec are complete there are 128-144-160-176-208-224 sts on round. Continue in M.1 until piece measures approx 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm – adjust to after at least 2 rounds stocking st. Now remove Marker-1, -2, -4 and -5. Continue in M.2 – beg by arrow for your size at bottom of diagram so that st mid front = arrow at top of diagram. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 work next round as follows: 19-23-27-31-39-43 stocking sts, M.2 (continue from row 7 in chart and repeat from row 7-22) on 25 sts mid front and stocking st on remaining sts on round. AT THE SAME TIME on round 4 inc 1 st on each side of the markers at sides – SEE INCREASING TIP – and repeat the inc on every 4 round a total of 7 times = 156-172-188-204-236-252 sts. When piece measures approx 67-68-69-70-71-72 cm (adjust so that next round is a round with YO) work 4 rounds garter st – see above – on 7 sts mid front, with remaining sts as before. On next round cast off the middle st at front for split and on the same round cast off 7 sts each side for armhole (= st with marker + 3 sts on each side of this). Now complete each piece separately. LEFT FRONT PIECE: = 35-39-43-47-55-59 sts. Continue with 3 garter sts towards neckline, 9 sts of M.2 and stocking st on remaining sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec for neckline and armhole as follows: NECKLINE: Dec 1 st on neckline inside 12 sts – SEE DECREASING TIP-2 - and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 9-10-10-10-10-11 times and then on every 4th row 5-5-5-6-6-6 times. ARMHOLE: Cast off for armhole at the beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-4 times. When all dec are complete there are 20-20-21-21-24-24 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Like left front piece, but mirrored. BACK PIECE: = 71-79-87-95-111-119 sts. Continue in stocking at and cast off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 69-71-73-75-81-83 sts. When piece measures 83-85-87-89-91-93 cm work 4 rows garter st on the middle 35-37-37-39-39-41 sts, with remaining sts in stocking st. Now cast off the middle 29-31-31-33-33-35 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Continue in stocking st with 3 garter sts towards neckline and cast off when piece measures 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 62-62-68-68-74-80 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Muskat. Work 4 rows garter st and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 2 cm inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 2-4-3-5-5-4 times, work inc sts in stocking st = 66-70-74-78-84-88 sts. When piece measures 6 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 1-2-4-5-6-8 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm, now cast off 4 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts, piece measures approx 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and set in sleeves. CROCHET BORDERS: Crochet a border with crochet hook size 4 mm and Muskat round sleeve edges and along bottom edge of dress as follows: ROUND 1: 1 dc in first st, * 4 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. ROUND 2: Work sl sts to the middle of the first ch-loop, 1 dc round ch-loop, * 2 ch, 1 dc round next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 dc round next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* but fasten the last loop with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. ROUND 3: Crochet 1 dc in each of the small ch-loops and crochet 1 dc, 5 tr and 1 dc in each of the large ch-loops, finish round with 1 sl st in first dc. Crochet a border round neckline with crochet hook size 4 mm and Muskat as follows – beg mid back: 1 dc in first st, * 1 picot (= 4 ch, 1 st in first ch), skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish round with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (137)
Esther Oz wrote:
I will try the store, but my side marker is right before the 19 stockinette. The only way to divide so I get 35 is to bind off 7 before the marker
09.11.2020 - 15:49DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, yes there were 19 sts stocking st after beg of round and before M.2 but then you increased 7 sts (1 st on each side of each marker a total of 7 times = 156 sts in total), so that there are 19+7= 26 sts in stocking st - 3 sts cast off at the beg of the round = 23 sts in stocking st + 9 sts M.2 + 3 sts garter st (neck edge). Hope this helps together with your store. Happy knitting!
09.11.2020 - 16:01Esther Oz wrote:
I have 156 sts but if I cast off 7 for first armhole and 1 for mid front that gives me 28 sts on left side because I have 19 sts in stockinette, then 9 sts in M2 and 3 sts in garter. I lost 3 sts from when I bind off after the first marker. 19+9+3-3=28. I will have more sts on back and Right side. It doesn’t divide into 35,35,71
09.11.2020 - 14:26DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, you should divide your stitches to get the 7 sts cast off for armhole, 35 sts for first front piece, 1 middle st cast off for neck, 35 sts for 2nd front piece, 7 sts cast off for 2nd armhole and 71 sts for back piece - do not hesitate to show your work to your store (even a picture per mail), it might be easier for them to explain you seeing your work. (Remember the markers should be on each side of piece). Hope this helps. Happy knitting!
09.11.2020 - 15:39Esther Oz wrote:
I do not get 35 sts on left front piece. After first marker is 19 sts, then 9 sts in M2 and then there are 3 sts for front for split. If I bind off 3 sts after first marker I’m left with 28 sts which is what I’m getting. 19+9+3-3=28. How do you get 35? I do have correct amount of sts in round of 156
06.11.2020 - 23:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, check your number of stitches before dividing piece: 156 sts - 1 st cast off on mid front + 7 stsx2= 14 sts cast off for armholes = 35 sts for each front piece and 71 sts for back piece. The 35 sts on front piece are worked: 3 sts in garter st towards neck, 9 sts in M.2 and 23 sts in stocking stitch. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!
09.11.2020 - 09:16Esther Oz wrote:
Need help on Left front piece. For first 35 sts, I first do 3 garter sts then 9 sts of M2. Is that starting from row 7 again? And am I only working 35 sts on left side? Is this working in the round. Also, for xs, armhole bind off 1st sts only?
06.11.2020 - 05:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, you just have to work the row of diagram coming after the previous one you worked - you now repeat row 7 to 22, if you worked row 22 on previous row, then start again from row 7. Correct in first size, you just cast off 1 stitch at the beg of first row from the armhole. Seen from RS (left front piece = from the armhle towards neck)) work: stocking stitch, 9 sts in M.2, 3 sts in garter stitch. Decrease for neck before the 12 last stitches (= M.2 + 3 sts in garter st), seen from RS. Happy knitting!
06.11.2020 - 08:34Esther Oz wrote:
On bind off row, in previous answer to my question said to do row in next pattern in M2 on each side of the 7 mid front sts. Are the 7 middle sts still in stockinette other than the mid st that I bind off?
03.11.2020 - 14:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, the 7 stitches on mid front are worked in garter stitch (in the middle of M.2) but the 7 stitches for armholes are worked in stocking stitch (on each side). Happy knitting!
03.11.2020 - 15:33Esther Oz wrote:
So just to make sure, I’m binding off the last 3 sts before the beginning of the bind off row and not binding off 3 sts in beginning of of row and binding off last 4 sts and the end of same row?
03.11.2020 - 05:29DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, this might give the same, you can either start the bind off row with the last 3 sts of the round to bind off 3 sts before marker + 1 st with marker + 3 sts after marker (= beg of next round) or cast off the sts from beg of the round and end with casting off the last stitches of the round, then cut the yarn and join it back for left front piece. Just make sure that your number of sts is correct on each piece. Happy knitting!
03.11.2020 - 09:06Esther Oz wrote:
Still confused on the bind off row. Says bind off middle sts which would in middle of the 7 garter sts but to bind off one sts I have to knit 2 stitches so do I knit sts 3 & 4 or 4 & 5? Also when I bind off for armhole. Do I do 3 bind offs when I start to round and then 4 at end of that row, or 3 before new round and 4 after start round so they are all together at the beginning?
30.10.2020 - 23:03DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, after you have bind off the middle stitch for neck you should have on each side of this bind off stitch: A.2, 3 sts in garter st, 1 st bind off, 3 sts in garter st, A.2 - for the armhole start 3 sts before the stitch with a marker and cast off the next 7 stitches (= 3 sts before marker + 1 st with marker + 3 sts after marker). You should have 35 sts for each front piece and 71 sts for the back piece. Happy knitting!
02.11.2020 - 07:36Esther Oz wrote:
Are the 7 stitches still garter?
22.10.2020 - 15:47DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, you cast off the 7 sts on each side for armhole and work the 7 middle sts as follows: 3 sts in garter st, cast off the middle st, 3 sts in garter st. Happy knitting :)
22.10.2020 - 16:20Esther Oz wrote:
I finished 4 rounds with garter sts in mid front. On the next round for the bind offs in mid front and 7 on each side, is the round done as row 11 of M2 or is that entire round stockinette?
22.10.2020 - 14:01DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, the bind off row will be then worked on row 11 of M.2 over the stitches on each side of the 7 sts in garter st and in stockinette over all remaining stitches. Happy knitting!
22.10.2020 - 15:30Esther Oz wrote:
Sorry but just to make sure I understand , I finished the rows 7-22 and measured perfectly, so for the 4 rows with the garter st, I start from row one of M2, not row 7? Because I started on row 7 again, but I can undo if I should start from row 1
21.10.2020 - 17:10DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Oz, M.2 is now repeated from row 7 to 22, this means if you just finished row 22, you will start M.2 again from row 7, at the same time (if measurements are matching), work the 7 middle sts in garter st. Happy knitting!
22.10.2020 - 10:03