DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 3.90 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 111-20
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-112-128-138 cm / 34 5/8’’-37¾’’-41’’-44’’-50 3/8’’-54 ¼’’
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼’’-22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
color no 05, light purple: 500-550-600-650-700-750 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or sized needed to get width of 17 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons w/hole no 522, 5 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 3.90 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO: Replace first dc on each row with 3 ch. Finish each row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 dc at the sides by working 1 exdca dc in the last but one dc.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec at the beg of row: replace 1 dc with 1 sl st.
Dec at the end of row: Turn piece when number of dc to be dec remain and work return row.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2.
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BACK PIECE:
SEE CROCHET INFO! Work 107-117-124-134-149-162 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Muskat. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-*, but the last time finish with skip 1-1-0-0-0-1 ch and 1 dc in each of the last 2-2-0-0-0-2 ch = 84-92-98-106-118-128 dc. Turn piece. Continue with 1 dc in each dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When piece measures 10 cm / 4’’ dec 1 dc each side, and repeat the dec on every 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2”-2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8” a total of 5 times – SEE DECREASING TIP = 74-82-88-96-108-118 dc. When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13 3/8’’-13¾’’-14¼’’-14½’’-15’’-15¼’’ bind off for armhole each side on every row as follows: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 1-2-3-4-6-8 times and 1 dc 1-2-2-3-4-4 times = 62-64-66-68-70-72 dc. When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½’’-21¼’’-22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’ (2 rows now remain) work 1 row on 14-15-16-16-17-18 dc each side only, do not work the middle 34-34-34-36-36-36 dc = neckline. Work 1 row on shoulder sts and cut the thread, piece measures approx 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼’’-22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work 59-64-67-72-80-86 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and Muskat. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 5th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch, * 3 ch, skip 4 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times (= front band), continue across the row as follows: * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-*, but the last time finish with skip 1-1-0-0-1-1 ch and 1 dc in each of the last 1-1-0-0-2-3 ch = 25-29-32-36-42-47 dc + front band. Turn piece. Continue as follows: M.1 on front band, 1 dc in each of the remaining dc on row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When piece measures 10 cm / 4’’ dec at the side as described for back piece = 20-24-27-31-37-42 dc + front band. When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13 3/8’’-13¾’’-14¼’’-14½’’-15’’-15¼’’ bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 14-15-16-17-18-19 dc + front band. When piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm / 17¼’’-18’’-19’’-19¾’’-20½’’-21¼’’ do no longer crochet on the front band + 0-0-0-1-1-1 dc = 14-15-16-16-17-18 dc left on shoulder. Continue on shoulder sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼’’-22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-
24 3/8’’-25¼’’ cut the thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Work 67-67-67-73-73-73 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and Muskat. Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, and continue as follows: * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-*, but the last time finish with skip 1 ch and 1 dc in each of the last 2-2-2-3-3-3 ch = 52-52-52-57-57-57 dc. Turn piece. REMEMBER CROCHET INFO! Work 4 rows with 1 dc in each dc and continue as follows: M.2A, repeat M.2B on the next 50-50-50-55-55-55 dc, and finish with M.2C. Work the first 2 rows in M.2, then repeat row 3 and 4 until piece measures 12 cm / 4¾’’. Now work row 5 in M.2. Continue with 1 dc in each dc, AT THE SAME TIME inc each side by working 1 exdca dc in the last but one dc each side, repeat the inc on every 5-3.5-2-2-1.5-1 cm / 2’’-1¼’’-3/4’’-3/4’’-½’’-3/8’’ a total of 4-6-8-8-11-12 times = 60-64-68-73-79-81 dc. When piece measures 33-33-31-31-30-29 cm / 13”-13”-12¼”-12¼”-11¾”-11 3/8” – less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – bind off for sleeve cap each side on every row – SEE DECREASING TIP: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 3-3-4-4-4-4 times, 1 dc 0-1-1-2-3-5 times, then 2 dc each side until piece measures 40-41-41-42-42-43 cm / 15¾”-16 1/8”-16 1/8”-16½”-16½”-17”, now bind off 3 dc 1 time each side, cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams, edge to edge. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams, edge to edge. Sew on the 5 buttons, place them evenly on left front piece and use the gap between 2 dc on right front band as buttonholes.

NECKLINE:
Crochet 80 to 90 dc round neckline with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and Muskat. Work 2 rows with 1 dc in each dc, cut and fasten the thread

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.05.2009
DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons w/hole no 522, 5 pcs.

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc
symbols = 5 dc round ch-loop
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Susanne wrote:

Hej. Hur och var ska knapphålen göras på vänster framstycke?

19.02.2023 - 16:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne. Du ska inte göra knapphål, du knäpper knapparna mellan 2 st på höger framstycke. Sy i 5 knappar jämnt fördelat på vänster framkant. Mvh DROPS Design

22.02.2023 - 11:50

country flag Victoria wrote:

No entiendo qué significa “but the last time finish with skip 1-1-0-0-0-1 ch and 1 dc in each of the last 2-2-0-0-0-2 ch”

14.04.2021 - 07:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Victoria. En primer lugar tienes este patrón en castellano: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=4040&cid=23. Sobre tu pregunta: cuando terminamos la fila/vuelta no tenemos suficientes puntos para una repetición, por eso los últimos puntos se trabajan de diferente manera según la talla.

24.04.2021 - 20:45

country flag Monica wrote:

I'm beginning this pattern I do not follow I the back piece says: but the last time finish with skip 1-1-0-0-0-1 ch and 1 dc in each of the last 2-2-0-0-0-2 ch = 84-92-98-106-118-128 dc. one (1) stand for skip one al Cero (0) stands for one DC in each?

14.04.2021 - 04:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monica, in some sizes (= 3rd, 4th and 5th) you will repeat from *to* to the end of the row, and in some other sizes(= 1st, 2nd and 6th) you will have to finish the row with 1 dc in the last 2 ch. Happy crocheting!

14.04.2021 - 07:38

country flag Lais wrote:

Olá, na parte da manga, diz para repetir as carreiras 3 e 4... Não entendi, o que faz nelas? repete o M2 ou faz só pa?

06.01.2021 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Boa tarde, Na parte da manga, repete as carreiras 3 e 4 de M2 até ter 12 cm de altura total. Bom croché!

12.01.2021 - 16:30

country flag Lais wrote:

Olá, há um erro logo no primeiro parágrafo "costas", na terceira linha: * saltar 1 pc, 1 pa em cada um dos pc seguintes * faltou o 4 antes de "pc seguintes"! dessa forma, a pessoa confunde e acha que tem que pular uma corrente e fazer apenas um pa, e não 4. Obrigada!

30.12.2020 - 15:13

country flag VALENTINA wrote:

Cosa si intende per "intrecciare per lo scalfo a ogni lato su ogni riga"? non ho capito cosa bisogna fare

31.08.2020 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Valentina, in quel punto deve modellare lo scalfo, cioè diminuire le maglie all'inizio e fine di ogni riga come spiegato (SUGGERIMENTO PER LE DIMINUZIONI), quindi sulla 1° riga, deve lavorare 1 maglia bassissima nella 1° delle 4 maglie basse, e 3 catenelle per 1 maglia bassa (= 3 maglie basse diminuite) e continuare come prima fino a quando rimangono 3 maglie basse, girare e lavorare 1 maglia bassissima nella 1° delle 3 maglie basse, 3 catenelle per 1 maglia bassa (2 maglie diminuite), poi continuare a diminuire come indicato per la sua taglia. Buon lavoro!

01.09.2020 - 09:15

country flag Sandra wrote:

Pourriez vous m’expliquer pour les emmanchures svp? Combien de rangs dois je monter et sur combien de cm? Merci

11.08.2020 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sandra, si la réponse précédente ne vous a pas permis de continuer, merci de bien vouloir nous indiquer quelle taille, quelle partie etc.. vous réalisez et à quel niveau vous coincez. Merci!

11.08.2020 - 15:38

country flag Sandra wrote:

Bonjour, j’essaie de faire ce modèle mais je bloque aux emmanchures. Combien de rangs dois je monter à partir des emmanchures et sur combien de cm? Merci

11.08.2020 - 14:59

country flag Sandra wrote:

Bonjour, j’essaie de faire le modèle Fatima R-524 mais j’ai du mal avec les explications pour les emmanchures. C’est à dire combien dois je faire de rangs à partir du début des emmanchures? Et sur combien de cm? Merci de votre réponse

11.08.2020 - 14:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sandra, parlez-vous du dos? Vous devez former l'encolure quand l'ouvrage mesure 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm de hauteur totale (= depuis la chainette de base) en crochetant 2 rangs sur les 14 à 18 brides (cf taille) d'un côté, coupez le fil = 1ère épaule - sautez maintenant les 34-36 brides centrales et crochetez 2 rangs sur les 14 à 18 brides de l'autre côté pour l'autre épaule. Bon crochet!

11.08.2020 - 15:37

country flag Lise-Lotte Klang-Jansson wrote:

Jag får inte bredden på ärmen att passa ihop med bak och framstycke.

26.07.2020 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lise-Lotte, virkar du inte lika löst som virkfastheten i mönstret, så kan ärmen bli för smal. Du kan virka ett par extra varv på ärmkullen så den blir större från "hörn" till "hörn". Lycka till !

28.07.2020 - 11:31