DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
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DROPS 111-38
Size: S/M – M/L - XL/XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Around bottom: 116-128-138-150 cm / 45¾”-50 3/8”-54¼”-59”
Full length: 36-38-40-42 cm / 14¼”-15”-15¾”-16½”

Materials: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
color no 29, light gray/green: 250-250-300-350 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 06, light gray/green: 75-75-100-100 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 16 sc x 20 rows with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons no 540: 2 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SHOULDER WRAP:
Worked from bottom edge towards the top.
Work 210-230-250-270 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and 1 thread of each quality.
ROW 1(= RS): 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next 4-5-6-7 ch, skip 1 ch, * 1 sc in each of the next 8 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 5-6-7-8 ch = 186-204-222-240 sc.
ROW 2-5: 1 sc in each sc – turn each row with 1 ch.
ROW 6: * 5 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 62-68-74-80 ch-loops.
ROW 7: 8 ch, 1 sc in first ch-loop, * 5 ch, 1 sc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat row 7 until piece measures approx 25-27-29-31 cm / 9¾”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-12¼” – adjust so that next row is from WS.

NEXT ROW: 1 ch, and 3 sc in each ch-loop across the row = 186-204-222-240 sc.
THE NEXT 2 ROWS: 1 sc in each sc.
Now insert 11-12-13-14 markers in piece (from RS) as follows: First marker after 8-8-9-9 sc, and then 17 sc between each marker = 8-9-9-10 sc left after the last marker.
On next row dec 1 st to the left of all markers (dec 1 st by skipping 1 sc after marker) = a total of 11-12-13-14 dec sts on row. Work 1 row from WS with 1 sc in each sc. On next row dec 1 st to the right of all markers (by skipping 1 sc before marker). Repeat the dec on every row from RS a total of 9 times, to the left and to the right of markers alternately. When all dec are complete there are 87-96-105-114 sc left on row. Work 2 rows with 1 sc in each sc, cut and fasten the thread.

LEFT FRONT BAND: Work approx 55 to 67 sc along front piece – approx 3 sc in each ch-loop and 2 sc per 3 rows with sc. Make sure the edge doesn’t become too tight nor too loose! Now work 4 rows with 1 sc in each sc.

RIGHT FRONT BAND: Like left front band, but after 2 rows crochet 2 buttonholes. 1 buttonhole = 3 ch, skip 3 sc, on next row work 3 sc in ch-loop. Place the top buttonhole approx 2 cm / 3/4’’ from the top and the next 6 cm / 2 3/8’’ below the first one.
Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.04.2009
Materials: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
color no 29, light gray/green: 250-250-300-350 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 06, light gray/green: 75-75-100-100 g

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (69)

country flag Yen wrote:

Please explain row 7. "ROW 7: 8 ch, 1 sc in first ch-loop, * 5 ch, 1 sc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-*. " What do you mean by 1sc in first ch-loop and 1sc in next ch-loop? And how many total ch loop for row 7? Sorry, I normally crochet with diagram and a bit confused with instruction. Thanks

13.03.2017 - 00:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Yen, you will always have the same number of ch-spaces,work 8 ch to turn with at the beg of row 7, then work 1 sc in 1st ch-space (= last ch-space on previous row), then repat *5 ch, 1 sc in next ch-space) and repeat this row until stated measurement for your size. Happy crocheting!

13.03.2017 - 11:08

country flag RWolowiec wrote:

When you state there is to be 17 sc between the markers, it should really state that you start counting from the last marker. That makes 16 in between, not 17. Nothing was working until I did this. Very confusing.

06.03.2017 - 06:38

country flag Faron wrote:

Server mind about the dec term. I googled it :). I would still like to know if sc is supposed to be stitch from here on. Thanks in advance. I'm not feeling so desperate anymore.

21.05.2016 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Faron, about decrease, you've to dec 1 st by skipping 1 sc after marker if you want to dec on the left side of the markers, and by skipping 1 sc before marker if you want to dec on the right side of the markers. And yes, you,ve to work sc from here on. Happy crocheting!

21.05.2016 - 20:18

country flag Faron Antoine-Shrieves wrote:

I am stuck! After placing the markers, you say to dec1 st to left of marker. What does dec mean? And what stitch am I doing in that row? Do I single crochet that row? This point in the pattern is very confusing to me. It's so cute and I want to finish. Otherwise I've wasted many hours. I'm desperate. Please, help!

21.05.2016 - 19:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Faron, about decrease, you've to dec 1 st by skipping 1 sc after marker if you want to dec on the left side of the markers, and by skipping 1 sc before marker if you want to dec on the right side of the markers. And yes, you,ve to work sc from here on. Happy crocheting!

21.05.2016 - 20:18

country flag Sharon wrote:

When the pattern reads "with one thread of each quality" does this mean to crochet with both yarns for each stitch (2 strands of yarn used in each stitch)? Thanks.

20.04.2016 - 09:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, that's correct, you will work with both strands tog just as if there was just one. Happy crocheting!

20.04.2016 - 10:58

DROPS Design wrote:

Vous trouverez ici un tutoriel en photos pour vous montrer comment réaliser les rangs d'arceaux en répétant le rang 7. Vous êtes la bienvenue sur le forum DROPS pour toute information complémentaire. Bon crochet!

15.04.2016 - 12:13

country flag Martine Trépanier wrote:

Le rang 7 n'est pas claire car on demande de faire 1 ms dans le dernier arceau, mais il reste la moitié de l'arceau. Que dois-t-on faire ?

15.04.2016 - 00:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Trépanier, au rang 7, on commence par 8 ml pour le 1er arceau, puis on répète tout le rang (1 ms dans l'arceau suivant, 5 ml), et on termine par 1 ms dans le dernier arceau. En répétant le rang 7, on termine par 1 ms dans l'arceau de 8 ml du début du rang précédent. Veillez à toujours bien avoir le même nombre d'arceaux sur chaque rang. Bon crochet!

15.04.2016 - 09:18

country flag Susan Hardy wrote:

I have the correct amount of stitches and have placed 11 markers but the pattern says using 12 markers. !!

14.06.2014 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hardy, in 2nd size, you work 8 st, put 1st marker, then work *17 sts, put 1 marker*, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times, 9 sts remain after last marker = 204 sts. Happy crocheting!

16.06.2014 - 10:19

country flag Marie Jacobsson wrote:

Dum fråga kanske men använder man båda garntyperna på samma gång dvs virkar med två garner samtidigt?

04.04.2014 - 09:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marie. Ja, du virkar med två garner samtidigt. Det staar ogsaa i mönstret: Det virkas nerifrån och upp. Virka 210-230-250-270 lm med nål 4 och en tråd av varje kvalitet

04.04.2014 - 10:26

country flag Jasmin wrote:

Hallo, muss bei den 1+9 Abnahmerunden auch mit einer Wendeluftmasche gearbeitet werden? LG

22.02.2014 - 13:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jasmin, ja, bei jeder R mit festen M wenden Sie mit 1 Luftmasche. Gutes Gelingen!

22.02.2014 - 14:01