DROPS / 111 / 18

Quiet Lake by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket with 3/4 sleeves in ”Alpaca”. Size S - XXXL.

Tags: a-shape, jackets,
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-90-100-110-120-130 cm / 32¼’’-35½’’-39 3/8’’-43 3/8’’-47¼’’-51’’
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
color no 7120, light gray/green: 300-300-350-400-450-500 g

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2or3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 36 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’. 23 garter sts = width 10 cm / 4’’.
DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons no 521, 7 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 4th and 5th st from mid front and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 13, 20, 28, 35 and 43 cm / 2”,5 1/8”,8”,11”,13¾” and 17”.
SIZE M: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37 and 45 cm / 2”,5 1/8”,8¼”,11 3/8”,14½” and 17¾”
SIZE L: 6, 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46 cm / 2 3/8”,5½”,8¾”,11¾”,15” and 18”.
SIZE XL: 6, 15, 23, 32, 40 and 48 cm / 2 3/8”,6”,9”,12½”,15 ¾” and 19”.
SIZE XXL: 6, 15, 24, 33, 41 and 49 cm / 2 3/8”,6”,9½”,13”,16 1/8” and 19¼”,
SIZE XXXL: 6, 15, 24, 33, 42 and 51 cm / 2 3/8”,6”,9½”,13”,16½” and 20”,
NOTE: The last buttonhole is made on neckline.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 112-122-134-146-158-170 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work 6 rows garter st – see above – and continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8’’ dec 1 st on each side and repeat the dec on every 5 cm / 2’’ a total of 6 times = 100-110-122-134-146-158 sts.
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼’’-15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’ bind off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 3 sts 0-0-1-2-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-5-6 times = 86-88-92-94-96-100 sts. When piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm / 16½’’-17¼’’-18’’-19’’-19¾’’-20½’’ dec 4 sts evenly on row = 82-84-88-90-92-96 sts. Now complete piece in garter st. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼’’-22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’ bind off the middle 38 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off on every row from neckline: 1 st 2 times = 20-21-23-24-25-27 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 64-69-75-81-87-93 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 8 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work 6 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st with 8 front band sts towards mid front in garter st. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8’’ dec at the side as described for back piece = 58-63-69-75-81-87 sts. When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼’’-15¾’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’ bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 51-52-54-55-56-58 sts. When piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm / 16½’’-17¼’’-18’’-19’’-19¾’’-20½’’ dec 3 sts evenly on row (do not dec on front band) = 48-49-51-52-53-55 sts. Now complete piece in garter st on all sts, but to mark the front band P the 9th st from mid front on every row. When piece measures 50-52-54-55-57-59 cm / 19¾’’-20½’’-21¼’’-21 5/8’’-22½’’-23¼’’ slip 16 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck and bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 6 times = 20-21-23-24-25-27 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22’’-22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored, and remember BUTTONHOLES – see above.

SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 58-60-62-64-66-68 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work 6 rows garter st and continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 5 cm / 2’’ inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 10-8-7-6-5-4 row a total of 10-12-13-15-16-18 times = 78-84-88-94-98-104 sts. When piece measures 35-34-32-31-29-28 cm / 13¾’’-13 3/8’’-12½’’-12¼’’-11 3/8’’-11’’ – less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder - bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 5-6-10-12-15-17 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 41 cm / 16 1/8’’, now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 42 cm / 16½’’.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.

NECKLINE: Pick up approx 110 to 120 sts round neckline (incl sts on stitch holders mid front) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. K 5 rows, AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. Bind off loosely after 5 rows.

FURTHER ASSEMBLY: Set in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 111-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Stefania 02.08.2019 - 10:19:

Buongiorno! Ho dei dubbi sul vivagno. Nel davanti lato interno. il vivagno va aggiunto alle otto maglie legaccio del bordo? Praticamente avrò un bordo di nove maglie legaccio ma per l'asola partirò a contare dalla seconda maglia? Invece per il vivagno laterale (sia per il davanti che per il dietro) è meglio lavorarlo dritto su dritto e rovescio su rovescio quando faccio la maglia rasata o sempre dritto? Grazie.

DROPS Design 02.08.2019 kl. 15:50:

Buongiorno Stefania, la maglia di vivagno è solo laterale, verso il centro davanti ha solo le 8 maglie del bordo. Può lavorare il vivagno a maglia legaccio, le servirà poi per la cucitura. Buon lavoro!

De Clercq Carine 03.07.2019 - 20:46:

Beste, in dit patroon spreken jullie van een eerste mindering op 6 cm . Bedoelen jullie vanaf de boordsteek of vanaf de eerste naald boven de ribbelboord ?

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 11:22:

Dag Carine,

Hiermee wordt vanaf het begin, dus vanaf de opzetnaald bedoeld.

Natalie 15.01.2019 - 16:47:

Skal siste maske mot stolpe være glattstrikk, eller skal den strikkes vrangt på alle pinner

DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 08:34:

Hej Natalie, de 8 stolpemasker skal strikkes i riller, alle de andre strikkes i glatstrik ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Gunilla 03.01.2019 - 08:34:

Kan Modell Z-415 ändras till en jumper och hur gör jag

DROPS Design 03.01.2019 kl. 09:19:

Hei Gunilla. Du kan gjerne gjøre denne om til en genser om du vil: strikk høyre og venstre forstykke sammen (isteden for å strikke dem hver for seg), og fjern stolpemaskene. Følg ellers oppskriften som anvist. God fornøyelse.

Gunilla 03.01.2019 - 08:30:

Kan mönstret andras till en jumper

DROPS Design 03.01.2019 kl. 09:19:

Hei Gunilla. Se svar over

Anna 05.12.2017 - 18:12:

Jag behöver hjälp! Vad betyder: ” 4 m 1-1-1-1-2-2 ggr, 3 m 0-0-1-2-3 ggr” osv när det gäller avmaskning för ärmhål? /nybörjaren

DROPS Design 06.12.2017 kl. 13:49:

Hej Anna, Börja med att markera den str du stickar genom hela mönstret. Du maskar av 4 m 1 gång om du stickar en av de första 4 str eller 2 ggr om du stickar en av de 2 största str. Sedan 3m 1(L) eller 2m(XL+XXL) eller 3m(XXXL).

Christel 04.07.2017 - 23:53:

Bei mir klappt das untere Bündchen (Krausrippe) nach oben. Was kann ich nach dem Zusammen nähen noch dagegen tun ?

DROPS Design 05.07.2017 kl. 08:37:

Liebe Christel, Sie können die Jacke mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr nach oben klappen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kerstin Gustafsson 02.08.2016 - 16:30:

Hej. Jag skulle vilja sticka 111-18 men förlänga ärmarna till lång ärm. Vill sticka en kofta nerifrån o upp med isydd ärm i enkel slätstickning och 111-18 är det närmaste jag kommer. Fungerar det att göra så tror ni?

DROPS Design 01.09.2016 kl. 12:57:

Hej Kerstin. Det tror jeg sagtens du kan. God fornöjelse

Anita Ludvigsen 12.01.2016 - 11:31:

Hej! Jag har stickat modell 111-18, en kofta med 3/4 ärm och är mycket nöjd med den. Jag skulle vilja sticka en till, men med lång ärm. Har ni något förslag på beskrivning till en lång ärm? Med vänlig hälsning Anita Ludvigsen

DROPS Design 12.01.2016 kl. 11:53:

Hej. Om du använder vår sökmotor på första sidan och skriver in "kofta" som sökord och söker i kategorin "Dam" och garn "Alpaca" så får du upp alla koftor gjorda i alpaca till dam, där hittar du helt säkert någon! Lycka till!

Christina 31.08.2015 - 17:21:

Jeg har problemer med ærmegabet i str. S, når man skal tage 3 masker ind, skal man ved str. S ikke tage ind, strikker man så bare uden at tage ind, eller springer man til næste gang man skal tage ind?

DROPS Design 02.09.2015 kl. 17:00:

Hej Christina. Du hopper over baade de 3 og de 2 masker og gaar direkte videre med at lukke 1 m af 3 gangen.

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