DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 16-2
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
JUMPSUIT:
250-250-300 (350-400) g colour no 01, off-white
BASQUE HAT:
50-50-100 (100-100) g colour no 01, off-white

JUMPSUIT:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm for the 2 smaller sizes and 60 cm for the 3 larger sizes) size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm – for rib.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS no 503:
12-12-12 (14-14) pcs.

BASQUE HAT:
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPSUIT:

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on buttonhole edge on front of leg. On right leg make buttonholes from RS and on left leg make buttonholes from WS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when leg measures:
SIZE 1/3 months: 2, 5, 8, 11 and 14 cm.
SIZE 6/9 months: 2, 6, 10, 14 and 18 cm.
SIZE 12/18 months: 2, 6, 11, 16 and 21 cm.
SIZE 2 years: 2, 6, 10, 14, 18 and 23 cm.
SIZE 3/4 years: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22 and 28 cm.
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RIGHT LEG: Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 47-53-53 (59-65) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 4 garter sts (buttonhole edge) rib K3/P3, on the next 36-42-42 (48-54) sts and finish row with K3 and 4 garter sts (= buttonhole edge). Continue in rib with 4 garter sts each side, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2 cm make buttonhole – SEE ABOVE. When piece measures 5 cm K 2 rows on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-13-9 (11-13) sts evenly on first row = 36-40-44 (48-52) sts. Change to needle size 4.5 mm and continue in stocking st with 4 garter sts each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st each side inside the 4 garter sts on every 3-3-4 (4-4) row a total of 9-10-11 (12-13) times = 54-60-66 (72-78) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-30) cm cast off 4 sts each side = 46-52-58 (64-70) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

LEFT LEG: Like right leg, but make buttonholes on the opposite side.

BODY PIECE: Slip both legs on the same circular needle = 92-104-116 (128-140) sts. Insert 1 marker each side = 46-52-58 (64-70) sts between markers. Work next round as follows – beg on the left side of piece: 18-21-24 (27-30) stocking sts, P2, K2 in each of the next 2 sts (= K4), P2, K2 in each of the next 2 sts (= K4), P2 and work remaining sts in stocking st = 96-108-120 (132-144) sts. Work next round as follows: 18-21-24 (27-30) stocking sts, P2, M.1, P2, M.2, P2 and work remaining sts in stocking st.
Continue like this until piece measures 38-46-54 (59-66) cm. Now divide the piece by markers at sides and complete front and back pieces separately – NOTE: Make sure to divide piece so that the cable row in M.1 and M.2 sits on the RS.

FRONT PIECE: = 50-56-62 (68-74) sts. Continue in stocking st with cables as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts each side for sleeves. Cast on at the end of every row at the sides: 4 sts 2-1-1 (1-1) times, 6 sts 0-1-1 (2-1) times, 8 sts 1-1-1 (1-2) times and 9-9-13 (16-21) sts 1 time = 100-110-124 (148-168) sts – work inc sts in stocking st. When piece measures 44-53-61 (67-75) cm K2 tog on the 2 cables = 96-106-120 (144-164) sts. On next row slip the middle 10-10-12 (14-16) sts on a stitch holder for neck and complete each side separately.
RIGHT SHOULDER/SLEEVE: Continue as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 39-44-50 (61-70) sts left on shoulder/sleeve. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-55-64 (70-78) cm work garter st on the first 12-13-14 (15-16) sts from mid front (work remaining sts as before). After 4 rows garter st make 2 buttonholes as follows from RS: K2 tog, 1 YO, work 5-6-7 (8-9) sts, K2 tog, 1 YO, work remaining sts on row. Continue in stocking st with garter st on the first 12-13-14 (15-16) sts from mid front until piece measures 48-57-66 (72-80) cm, cast off.
LEFT SHOULDER/SLEEVE: Like right shoulder/sleeve, but mirrored = 39-44-50 (61-70) sts on shoulder/sleeve. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 48-57-66 (72-80) cm, cast off.

BACK PIECE = 46-52-58 (64-70) sts. Cast on new sts each side for sleeves as described for front piece = 96-106-120 (144-164) sts. When piece measures 46-55-64 (70-78) cm cast off the middle 16-16-18 (20-22) sts for neck and complete each side separately.
RIGHT SHOULDER/SLEEVE: = 40-45-51 (62-71) sts. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 39-44-50 (61-70) sts. When piece measures 48-57-66 (72-80) cm cast off the first 27-31-36 (46-54) sts from sleeve edge towards shoulder. Work another 1.5 cm stocking st with 1 garter st each side on the remaining 12-13-14 (15-16) sts (= buttonhole edge). K 1 row from WS and cast off all sts from RS
LEFT SHOULDER/SLEEVE: Continue and cast off as described for right shoulder/sleeve, but mirrored = 39-44-50 (61-70) sts left on shoulder/sleeve. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 48-57-66 (72-80) cm, cast off.

ASSEMBLY: Sew upper arm seams, edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam – on right shoulder only sew seam up to buttonhole edge.
CUFF: Pick up 38-44-50 (50-56) sts on needle size 3.5 mm along sleeve edge. K 2 rows and continue in rib, K3/P3, with 1 edge st each side. Cast off when rib measures 5 cm. Repeat along the other sleeve edge.
Sew seams under arms inside 1 edge st. NECK: Pick up approx 48 to 64 sts round neckline (incl sts on stitch holders) on needle size 4.5 mm. K 3 rows and cast off.
Sew tog buttonhole edges at the top of the front of legs and sew tog the buttonhole edges at the top of the back of legs.
Sew on buttons to fit buttonholes on legs and shoulder.
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BASQUE HAT:
Head circumference: 40/42 - 44/46 - 46/48 (48/50 - 50/52) cm

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
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HAT: Worked back and forth on pointed needles.
Cast on 90-92-94 (96-98) sts on needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 cm rib, K1/P1. Continue in garter st – SEE ABOVE – AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-7-4 (6-3) sts evenly on first row = 85-85-90 (90-95) sts. Insert 5 markers in piece as follows from RS: First marker after 1 st, and the remaining 4 markers with 17-17-18 (18-19) sts between each = 16-16-17 (17-18) sts left after the last marker. On next row from RS inc 1 st to the left of all markers – SEE INCREASING TIP – and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 6-7-8 (9-10) times = 115-120-130 (135-145) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 6.5-7-7.5 (8-8.5) cm dec 1 st to the left of all markers by K2 tog, and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 18-19-20 (21-22) times = 25-25-30 (30-35) sts. Now K2 tog across the row. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten. Sew hat tog mid back in outer loops of sts.
Hat measures approx 15-16-17 (18-19) cm.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (130)

Carmen wrote:

On the Body Piece, when you first start the cable, what do you exactly mean when you say "Continue like this until piece...." Because you start with an increase row when you start the cable and then the next round you do the M1, M2, then continue like this - like what? Can you please be more specific. Also, when you start the body piece am I suppose to be knitting in the round?, and am I starting on the right row? after the 9"? I really need your help. Thank you.

04.06.2016 - 04:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carmen, continue as worked on previous round, ie with stocking sts, M1 and M2 (inc for cables are now done). Body is worked in the round, rounds bg on the left side of piece. After both legs are worked, cut the yarn and slip sts onto same circular needle, place a marker on each side and beg round on the left side as stated for your size. Happy knitting!

06.06.2016 - 08:57

Carmen wrote:

Thank you for your reply - it helps - only the count is off - I should end up with 120 stitches after the increases and if I only knit 24+[P2=K2+P2+K2 (from 2 sts)]+P2+24 (for front) + 58 for back = 116. I should be ending up with 120. Did you mean to knit 26 + increases + P2 + 26 this will = 120. Is the count off? This will also center the beginning of cable line in the front. Please advise. Thank you.

27.05.2016 - 18:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carmen, when putting legs tog you have 116 sts (58 x 2 legs), then work: 24 sts, P2, (work kfbl in the next 2 sts (= 2 inc) = K 4 over K2), P2, (work kfbl in the next 2 sts (= 2 inc) = K 4 over K2), P2, 24 sts in stocking st (= 62 sts for front piece), 58 sts in stocking st (= back piece) = 120 sts. Happy knitting!

30.05.2016 - 08:40

country flag Carmen wrote:

I am just starting the body piece after the legs - after you slip both legs on circular needle - am confused on where to start knitting - if I start at edge of leg where I just bound off the 4 stitches the P2K2 seem to appear in the middle of (or side of) the leg piece? Where do I start knitting the first 24 stitches? Do I start in the middle of one of the legs? Please advise - thank you in advance.

26.05.2016 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carmen, when you have slipped both legs on the same needle you added 2 markers, 1 on each side with 58 sts between each marker. Start rounds on the marker on the left side of piece so that you have 24 sts + P2, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P2, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P2, 24 sts stocking st (= front piece), marker on right side of piece, 58 sts in stocking st (= back piece). Happy knitting!

27.05.2016 - 08:29

country flag Amanda wrote:

I am just starting the body piece after the legs. After putting both legs on the circular needle it wants me to knit 18 stockinette stitches then start the cabling process. When I knit 18 stitches it leads me to believe I will have cable up the sides of the garment not up the front. Am I reading the pattern wrong?

17.05.2016 - 12:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amanda, when starting body, rounds should now start on the left side of piece, so that you will have the 18 sts in stockinette, then the cables (= over 10 sts), and 18 sts in stockinette sts = front piece and remaining 46 sts on round = back piece. Happy knitting!

17.05.2016 - 13:34

Teresa wrote:

Drops Baby 16-2 what do you mean by: Continue like this until piece measures 38-46-54 (59-66) cm (Do you mean continue working the last (cable) row? or the last 2 rows worked (with the increase row first)? Please clarify for me. Thank you.

13.02.2016 - 05:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Teresa, you continue working in pattern with stocking sts, P2 (from RS) and diagram M1 and M2 until piece measures 38-46-54 (59-66) cm. Happy knitting!

15.02.2016 - 10:14

Carmen wrote:

I think I finally understand. Hope it turns out okay. Thank you for your assistance on the Drops Baby 16-2

12.02.2016 - 00:54

Carmen wrote:

Drops Baby 16-2, okay thank you - the final question, the remaining stitches DO NOT HAVE TO BE THE SAME AS BEGINNING 21 STITCHES, just what remains, which will be 17 stitches? Yes, No? Thank you, I am just totally confused and need help, or just lost in translation.

10.02.2016 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carmen, when working 1st row on body, you work 21 sts in stocking st, P2, Kfb, Kfb, P2, Kfb, Kfb, P2, 73 sts in stocking st=108 sts. On next round, you work: 21 sts in stocking st, P2, M1 (= 4sts), P2, M2 (=4sts), P2, 73 sts in stocking st = 108 sts. Happy knitting!

11.02.2016 - 10:01

Carmen wrote:

Drops Design thank you for your reply, If I do knit in the front and back of the next 2 stitches the count will be off. For the 6/9 months, I am suppose to end with 108 sts (54 and 54) with K2FB in 2 stitches will give me 56 stitches on each side which total 112. Is the count wrong or the pattern?

10.02.2016 - 03:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carmen, you work in size 6/9 months as follows over the 104 sts: 21 sts in stocking st, then work P2, then inc by working K2 in each of the next 2 sts (= you have inc 2 sts and there are now K4), then P2, then inc 2 sts by working K2 in each of the next 2 sts (= you have inc 2 sts and there are now K4), work then P2 and work remaining sts in stocking st = you have inc a total of 4 sts, 104+4= 108 sts. Happy knitting!

10.02.2016 - 10:22

country flag Carmen wrote:

I need assistance on purchasing your yarn to do BabyDrops 16-2 but there is only 1 store in California and they do not pick up there phone. I also need assistance on this pattern with body piece. How can you get K4 from a P2, K2? Can I call someone for assistance? Thx

08.02.2016 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carmen, work knitwise alternately in front and back loop each of the next 2 sts to get 4 sts - see also how to kfbl below. Happy knitting!

09.02.2016 - 09:56

Connie wrote:

On your pattern Baby Drops 16-2 right leg: Are you saying that after you cast on the # of stitches necessary you start with a wrong side and you purl that side before you start the ribbing? Please advise. Thank you.

30.01.2016 - 05:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Connie, after casting on sts you first work a P row from WS, then work on next row from RS in rib with 4 sts in garter st on each side. Happy knitting!

01.02.2016 - 09:21