Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K | |
= P | |
= Slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle | |
= Slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle | |
= Slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle | |
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Baby Dove |
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Set of knitted poncho and hat with cables plus socks for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Baby 17-5 |
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PONCHO: PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS. PONCHO: Worked from the bottom and up in the round on circular needle. Cast on 272-288-300 (340-360) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 cm rib, K2/P2. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 56-60-60 (68-72) sts evenly = 216-228-240 (272-288) sts. Work next round as follows: * M.1, P 28-30-32 (26-28), M.2, P 28-30-32 (26-28) *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-3 (4-4) times. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME on second round dec 1 st on the left side of each P-section by P2 tog. Repeat the dec on every 2-2-2 (3-3) round on the right and left side of each P-section alternately a total of 22-23-25 (20-21) times = 84-90-90 (112-120) sts. Now K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 3 sts on all M.1 and M.2 repeats = 66-72-72 (88-96) sts. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 10-12-16 (12-12) sts evenly = 76-84-88 (100-108) sts. Piece now measures approx 20-21-23 (26-27) cm. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 3-4-4 (5-6) cm rib, K2/P2. Cast off in rib. Poncho measures approx 23-25-27 (31-33) cm. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT: Head circumference: 40/42 - 44/46 - 46/48 (48/50 - 50/52) cm. PATTERN: See diagram M.2 and M.3. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS. ---------------------------------------------------------- HAT: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 96-100-100 (104-112) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When rib measures 4-4-5 (5-5) cm change to circular needle size 4 mm, K 1 round, P 1 round and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-8 (8-8) sts evenly = 100-104-108 (112-120) sts. Continue as follows: P 3-3-3 (4-5), M.2, P 6-7-8 (8-9), M.3, P 6-7-8 (8-9), M.2, P 6-6-6 (8-10), M.2, P 6-7-8 (8-9), M.3, P 6-7-8 (8-9), M.2, P 3-3-3 (4-5). When piece measures approx 11-12-13 (14-15) cm work next round as follows: * P3, P2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 0-4-3 (2-0) sts remain, P these = 80-84-87 (90-96) sts. Now P all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 17-18-19 (20-21) sts evenly on every other round a total of 4 times = 12-12-11 (10-12) sts. NOTE: change to double pointed needles when sts no longer fit circular needle. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten. Hat measures approx 14-15-16 (17-18) cm. ---------------------------------------------------------- SOCK: HEEL DECREASES: Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece, Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 5-5-5 (6-6) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece, Row 3 ( = RS): Work row until 4-4-4 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece, Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 4-4-4 (5-5) sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece. Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 7-9-9 (9-9) sts on row. DECREASING TIP: Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog. Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. -------------------------------------------------------- SOCK: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 30-30-36 (36-36) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 8-8-9 (9-10) cm rib, K3/P3, and then K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-0-4 (2-0) sts evenly = 28-30-32 (34-36) sts. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Now keep the first 15-17-17 (19-19) sts on needle for heel and slip the remaining 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot. Work 3-3.5-4 (4-4.5) cm stocking st on heel sts. Insert a marker in piece and now dec for heel – SEE ABOVE. After heel dec pick up 7-8-9 (9-10) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needles = 34-38-42 (42-46) sts. Continue in stocking st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot as follows: K tog the 2 sts before the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts into back of loop and K tog the 2 sts after the 13-13-15 (15-17) sts. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4-6-6 (6-6) times = 26-26-30 (30-34) sts. Continue until piece measures approx 8-9-9.5 (11.5-12.5) cm from marker on heel (approx 2-2-2.5 (2.5-3.5) cm remain). Now insert a marker each side with 13-13-15 (15-17) sts on upper foot and 13-13-15 (15-17) sts under foot. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP - on every other round 2-2-3 (3-5) times and then on every round 3-3-3 (3-2) times = 6 sts left. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten. Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (115)
Heather Neumann wrote:
I love this set! I made 2 of them for 2 great nieces. Is there a matching hat pattern for adult sizes? If not, how would I adapt this pattern for a women's small or medium?
12.10.2019 - 19:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Neumann, we do not have exactly the same pattern for adult, but you will . Happy knitting!
14.10.2019 - 09:59Christiane wrote:
Danke für die sofortige Hilfe! Die Mütze ist fertig und wunderschön.
19.08.2019 - 16:50Christiane wrote:
Bei der Mütze: "nach 12 cm die nächste Reihe stricken: 3 li., 2 li zusammen, wiederholen bis 4 M übrig sind, diese li str.=84 Maschen" . Ich verstehe das nicht, können sie mir weiterhelfen? Es handelt sich bei der Grösse um die 2. Grösse. Danke!
18.08.2019 - 18:11DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Christiane, bei dieser Runde werden Sie abnehmen, bei dem Sie * 3 li., 2 li. zusammen *, von *-* insgesamt 16 Mal wiederholen (über die ersten 80 Maschen) und die 4 letzten Maschen der Runde li. stricken = es bleiben nur noch 84 M nach dieser Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
19.08.2019 - 10:32Margaret Mahony wrote:
Thank you for your reply and explaination. much clearer now. just one question- you stated M2 should be another cable. but if i am reading this from the bottom uo, from right to left, i see 6 stitches of knit for the first 4 rows and then a cable. Am Inot reading this correctly? thank you Margaret
17.07.2019 - 06:25DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Mahony, I just meant M.1 and M.2 are two different cables, when working diagrams, you will cross the stitches on different rows: in M.1 you cable on rows 1, 3, 5, 9 and 11 and in M.2 cables are on row 5 in diagram. See how to read diagrams - Several different diagrams worked consecutively on the round. Happy knitting!
17.07.2019 - 11:12Margaret Mahony wrote:
I casted on 288 stitches. i am at the point where i have 228 stitches. there are only three cable (M1) stitches on the pancho? does that seen right? i am starting the pattern where the instructions state "continue in pattern". i understand the alternatint decrease stitches, but the stitches dont add up. the pattern is M1, dec (P2tog), P30,M2 dec (P2tog),P30. if i am decreasing on each row then the P30 is not correct? wouldnt the number of P stitches decrease with each row? thanks Margaret
16.07.2019 - 06:47DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Mahony, in 2nd size there is a total of 6 cables, you work: *M.1 (= cables over 10 sts), P30, M.2 (= cable over 6 sts), P30*, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times. When decreasing in the purl section, the number of P stitches will decrease, ie on 1st decrease you work M.1, P28, P2 tog,, M.2, P28, P2 tog = there are now P29 between each cable. When all dec are done (23 times) = P7 remain in each P-section = (M1,P7, M2,P7)x3= 90 sts remain. Happy knitting!
16.07.2019 - 09:24Monica wrote:
Me ha gustado mucho todos tus cosas de punto. Quiero volver a tejer, cosas no muy difíciles por ahora. Gracias
18.06.2019 - 01:08Jennifer Willoughby wrote:
I do not understand the M cable pattern at all, is it available in non diagram form?
10.06.2019 - 04:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jennifer, this pattern has not written instructions, it is only available as a diagram. But it is not so difficult - just try! You read the diagram from bottom to top, from right to left. See symbol definition above the diagram. Also this video could be helpful for you: ">. Happy knitting!
10.06.2019 - 06:44DANIELLE wrote:
Re bonjour..... pour bébé 1/3 Je viens de faire selon votre dernière explication "tricotez 1 tour endroit, et sur ce même tour, vous diminuez 3 m dans chaque motif M.1 et M.2....'' Ma question est la suivante et concerne la prochaine étape: On demande de : TRICOTER ENSUITE 1 TOUR END. , EN MÊME TEMPS, RÉPARTIR 10 AUGMENTATIONS = 76 M. J'étais déjà sur ''1 tour end''. Est-ce que cela signifie le diagramme au complet? Merci encore une fois, Danielle,
03.06.2019 - 23:24DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Danielle, après le tour avec les diminutions dans les diagrammes on ne tricote plus les torsades, on a diminué dans les torsades pour conserver la bonne largeur, on tricote maintenant encore 1 tour endroit en répartissant cette fois 10 diminutions = il reste 76 m (et votre ouvrage mesure environ 20 cm), vous continuez maintenant avec l'aiguille 3,5 en côtes pendant 3 cm. Bon tricot!
04.06.2019 - 08:20DANIELLE wrote:
Merci beaucoup pour vos réponses rapides. C'est vraiment apprécié.
03.06.2019 - 16:43DANIELLE wrote:
Bonjour, est-ce possible d'avoir plus d'explications sur ceci: (bébé 1/3) TRICOTER ENSUITE 1 TOUR END. , EN MEME TEMPS, DIMINUER 3 M. DANS TOUS LES MOTIFS M.1 ET M.2 = 66 M. Est-ce diminuer 3 m. à chaque tours (rang) dans le motif? Merci beaucoup,
02.06.2019 - 23:30DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Danielle, vous tricotez 1 tour endroit, et sur ce même tour, vous diminuez 3 m dans chaque motif M.1 et M.2 (= pour diminuer 1 m, tricotez 2 m ens à l'end à 3 reprises dans chaque M1 et chaque M2) = il doit vous rester 3 m dans chaque M.2 et 7 m dans chaque M.1 soit 66 m au total à la fin de ce tour. Bon tricot!
03.06.2019 - 10:32