DROPS Baby / 18 / 9

Baby Harriet by DROPS Design

Set of knitted booties and dress with yoke in seed st for baby and children, in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Bust: 46-52-58 (64-70) cm [18”-20½”-22¾” (25¼”-27½”)]
Full length: 36-40-46 (50-56) cm [14¼”-15¾”-18” (19 ¾”-22”)]

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
DRESS:
150-200-200 (250-300) g color no 01, off-white
BOOTIES:
50-50-50 (50-100) g color no 01, off-white

DRESS:
DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] (60 cm [24’’] for all sizes + 40 cm [16’’] for the 2 smaller sizes) – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm [US E/4] – for borders
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON no 523: 2 pcs.

BOOTIES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED Needles size 4 mm [US 6] – or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter s = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON no 523: 2 pcs.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DRESS

DECREASING TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat row 2.

BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO. Make buttonholes when piece measures 29-32-37 (40-45) cm [11 3/8”-12½”-14½” (15¾”-17¾”)] and 32-36-41 (45-50) cm [12½”-14¼”-16 1/8” (17¾”-19¾”)].
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DRESS:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 144-160-176 (196-208) sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Merino Extra Fine. Insert 1 marker each side (= 72-80-88 (98-104) sts between markers on front and back piece). K 1 round, P 1 round and continue in stockinette st.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 5 cm [2’’] dec 1st on each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP – and repeat the dec on every 5-6-7 (8-9) round a total of 10 times = 104-120-136 (156-168) sts. When piece measures 25-28-33 (36-41) cm [9¾”-11”-13” (14¼”-16 1/8”)] dec 12-16-20 (28-28) sts evenly on round (dec an equal amount of sts on front and back piece) = 92-104-116 (128-140) sts. P 1 round and now continue in moss st – SEE ABOVE. When piece measures 27-30-35 (38-43) cm [10 5/8”-11¾”-13¾” (15”-17”)] bind off 6 sts each side (= 3 sts on each side of both markers), and complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE: = 40-46-52 (58-64) sts. Continue in moss st, AT THE SAME TIME bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 1 st 3 times = 34-40-46 (52-58) sts. When piece measures 34-38-44 (48-54) cm [13 3/8”-15”-17¼” (19”-21¼”)] bind off the middle 16-18-20 (20-22) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 8-10-12 (15-17) sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 36-40-46 (50-56) cm [14¼”-15 ¾”-18” (19 ¾”-22”)].

FRONT PIECE: = 40-46-52 (58-64) sts. Insert a marker between the 2 middle sts. Continue in moss st and bind off for armholes each side as described for back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 28-31-36 (39-44) cm [11”-12¼”-14¼” (15¼”-17¼”)] divide piece in two from RS as follows: Slip sts from the side and up to 2 sts before marker mid front on a stitch holder, and continue on remaining sts for right front piece.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE: = sts on left side of piece as seen from RS + 2 sts to the right of marker mid front. Continue in moss st and continue dec for armhole. When dec for armhole are complete there are 19-22-25 (28-31) sts on row. When piece measures 29-32-37 (40-45) cm [11 3/8”-12½”-14½” (15¾”-17¾”)] make buttonhole – SEE ABOVE.
When piece measures 33-37-42 (46-51) cm [13”-14½”-16½” (18”-20”)] bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front as follows: 5-6-7 (7-8) sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 8-10-12 (15-17) sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 36-40-46 (50-56) cm [14¼”-15 ¾”-18” (19 ¾”-22”)].

LEFT FRONT PIECE: Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and pick up 4 sts on the back of the first 4 sts towards mid front on right front piece. Continue as described for right front piece, but without the buttonholes.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams and sew on buttons to fit buttonholes.

CROCHET BORDER: Crochet a border round neckline, armholes and along bottom edge with crochet hook size 3.5 mm [US E/4] as follows: * 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 dc in the first of these 3 ch, skip 1 cm [½’’] *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

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BOOTIES:
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm
[4’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)].

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round):
K 1 round, P 1 round.
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RIGHT BOOTIE:
Worked in garter st. Beg with the sole as follows: Cast on 14-17-19 (23-27) sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm [US 6] with Merino Extra Fine and work garter st back and forth on needle – SEE ABOVE – for 4-4-4½ (5-5) cm [1½”-1½”-1¾” (2”-2”)]. Now pick up sts round the sole as follows: 6-8-9 (10-11) sts along each short side and 14-17-19 (23-27) sts along cast on row = 40-50-56 (66-76) sts. Round begins at the beg of cast on row. Work garter st in the round – SEE ABOVE – for 2-2-2 (3-3) cm [3/4”-3/4”-3/4” (1 1/8”-1 1/8”)]. Work next round as follows: bind off the first 10-12-13 (15-16) sts, work the next 14-18-21 (26-33) sts and then slip them on a stitch holder (= heel), bind off the next 10-12-13 (15-16) sts and keep the last 6-8-9 (10-11) sts on needle (= upper foot). Work garter st back and forth on needle for 4½-5-5½ (6-6½) cm [1¾”-2”-2¼” (2 3/8”-2½”)], and then bind off. Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 14-18-21 (26-33) sts. Work 2 cm [3/4’’] garter st back and forth on needle. At the end of next row from RS cast on 14 new sts for strap = 28-32-35 (40-47) sts. Work garter st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME after 1 cm [3/8’’] make 1 buttonhole at the end of strap as follows: K tog 3rd and 4th st from edge and make 1 YO. Continue in garter st until strap measures 2 cm [3/4’’] and bind off.

ASSEMBLY: Sew the upper piece to bootie both sides, edge to edge with small, neat sts – leave an opening measuring approx ½-½-½ (1-1) cm [1/4”-1/4”-1/4” (3/8”-3/8”)] between upper piece and edge at the back. Sew on button to fit buttonhole on strap.

LEFT BOOTIE: Like right bootie, but when casting on new sts for strap, cast on at the end of row from WS in order to have the strap at the opposite side .

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.