DROPS Baby / 17 / 14

Easter Finest by DROPS Design

Set of jacket with with raglan sleeves, bonnet and socks with flower detail, for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Head circumference bonnet: 40/42 - 44/46 - 46/48 (48/50 - 50/52) cm
Sock to fit foot length: 10–11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials: DROPS ALPACA
The complete outfit:
200-200-200 (250-250) g colour no 0100, off-white
50 g for all sizes colour no 3720, violet
50 g for all sizes colour no 3800, heather
50 g for all sizes colour no 7815, petrol/green mix

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 2.5 mm DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS no 523: 5-5-6 (6-6) pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.75£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3 – the diagrams are seen from the RS, M.2 is worked in stocking st.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

DECREASING TIP (applies to jacket): Dec 1 st to the left and to the right alternately of all markers by K2 tog.

CROCHET PICOT BORDER: Crochet a border with heather and crochet hook size 2.5 mm in violet folding edge as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, 1 dc in the first ch (= 1 picot), skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
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JACKET:

BODY PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 132-148-164 (176-192) sts (includes 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with violet. K 1 row from RS, change to off-white and work 7 rows stocking st (first row = WS). Change back to violet, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS (= folding edge, measure piece from here). Change to off-white and work 7 rows stocking st, cut the thread (next time you use off-white you beg the other side). Now push sts to the other end of needle and beg from RS again. K 2 rows with violet and then continue in M.1 with off-white.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx 17-18-21 (24-27) cm – adjust to a full repeat of M.1 – work next row as follows from RS: K 29-33-37 (40-44) sts = right front piece, cast off 8 sts for armhole, K 58-66-74 (80-88) sts = back piece, cast off 8 sts for armhole, K 29-33-37 (40-44) sts = left front piece. Cut the thread, put piece aside and knit the sleeves.
SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 36-38-40 (42-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with violet and P 1 round. Continue as follows: 7 rounds stocking st with off-white, K 1 round with violet, P 1 round with violet (= folding edge, measure piece from here), 7 rounds stocking st with off-white, K 1 round with violet, P 1 round with violet. Now insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under arm). Continue in M.1 with off-white. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 6-5-5 (6-6) round a total of 6-7-9 (10-12) times = 48-52-58 (62-68) sts. When piece measures approx 15-16-18 (22-26) cm – adjust to a full repeat of M.1 – K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME cast off 8 sts mid under arm (= 4 sts on each side of marker) = 40-44-50 (54-60) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.
YOKE: Slip sts on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armholes = 196-220-248 (268-296) sts. K 1 row off-white from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 3-3-7 (3-7) sts evenly = 193-217-241 (265-289) sts. Continue in M.2 with 1 garter st each side – SEE ABOVE. Before the last row in M.2 insert 15 markers in piece from RS as follows: first marker after 13-18-16 (21-19) sts, and the remaining markers with 12-13-15 (16-18) sts between each = 12-17-15 (20-18) sts left after the last marker. On next row (= last row in M.2) dec 1 st to the right of all markers by K2 tog. Now work M.3, AT THE SAME TIME dec – SEE DECREASING TIP – on every 4th row a total of 6-7-8 (9-10) times = 88-97-106 (115-124) sts. Continue in M.3 until piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-42) cm – adjust to after row 3 in pattern repeat. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 54-60-66 (72-78). Slip sts on a stitch holder.

ASSEMBLY: Sew openings under arms. Fold edges double towards WS and fasten.

LEFT FRONT BAND: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Pick up approx 65-70-80 (90-100) sts along left front piece inside 1 edge st on needle size 2.5 mm with off-white, K 1 row from WS, and then work 6 rows stocking st with 1 garter st each side. Change to violet and K 2 rows (= folding edge), change to off-white, work 7 rows stocking st with 1 garter st each side and cast off in K sts from WS. Fold edge double towards WS and fasten.
RIGHT FRONT BAND: Like left front band but after 2 rows stocking st make 5-5-6 (6-6) buttonholes evenly distributed – place the top buttonhole 2 sts from neckline and the bottom one approx 3 cm from bottom edge. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. On row 4 in stocking st after folding edge make buttonholes in the same places.
NECKLINE: Pick up 5 sts on right front band with off-white, work sts from stitch holder back on needle and then pick up 5 sts on left front band = approx 64-70-76 (82-88) sts. K 1 row from WS, work 4 rows stocking st with 1 garter st each side, change to violet, K 2 rows (= folding edge), change to off-white and work 5 rows stocking st with 1 garter st each side. Cast off in K sts from WS. Fold edge double towards WS and fasten.
Sew on buttons.
CROCHET BORDER: Crochet a picot border along bottom edge, round sleeve edges and round neckline – SEE ABOVE.
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SOCKS:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 40-40-40 (48-48) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off-white and work 4 rounds stocking st. Change to violet, K 1 round, P 1 round (= folding edge), change back to off-white and work 4 rounds stocking st. Now continue in M.2 – beg in top right hand corner of diagram and work diagram from top down. After M.2 complete piece in off-white. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 40-44-44 (48-52). Now work 2 cm rib, K1/P1 and work next round as follows: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* (= casing). K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6 sts evenly = 34-38-38 (42-46) sts. Now slip the first 12-14-14 (15-17) sts on a stitch holder, keep the next 10-10-10 (12-12) sts on row and slip the last 12-14-14 (15-17) sts on a stitch holder. Work M.3 back and forth on sts on needle for 3.5-4-4.5 (6-7) cm (= upper foot). Pick up 9-10-12 (15-19) sts on each side of upper foot and slip sts from stitch holders back on needles = 52-58-62 (72-84) sts. Continue in garter st – SEE ABOVE – back and forth on needle from mid back, AT THE SAME TIME after 1.5-2.5-3 (3-4) cm dec as follows: K2 tog at the beg and at the end of row and K2 tog on each side of the middle 2 sts. Repeat the dec on every other row until edge measures 3-4-5 (5-6) cm. Cast off and sew sock tog mid under foot and continue to casing mid back – sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam.
Fold edge double at top of sock towards WS and fasten. Crochet a Picot border at the top – SEE ABOVE.
TIE STRING: Crochet a ch-string with crochet hook size 2.5 mm and violet measuring approx 50 cm. Thread string through casing.
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BONNET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
LOOSELY cast on 81-89-97 (105-105) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off-white. Work 6 rows stocking st (first row = RS), change to violet, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS (= folding edge, measure piece from here).
Change back to off-white and work 6 rows in stocking st. Continue with M.2 with 1 garter st each side – beg in top right hand corner of diagram and work diagram from top down, AT THE SAME TIME on last row dec 1 st in the middle of row by K2 tog = 80-88-96 (104-104) sts.

Continue in M.1 – beg on row 5 in diagram in order to have 2 rows stocking st in off-white before the P row. When piece measures 12-13-14 (15-16) cm cast off 4-5-6 (4-4) sts each side = 72-78-84 (96-96) sts. Now insert 6 markers in piece as follows: the first marker after 1 st, the next 5 markers with 12-13-14 (16-16) sts between each = 11-12-13 (15-15) sts after the last marker. Continue in garter st – SEE ABOVE – AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st after each marker on next row from RS. Repeat the dec on every row from RS until there are 12 sts left on row. K2 tog across the row, cut thread, pull through remaining sts and use thread end to sew bonnet tog mid back – sew in outer loops of sts, and also sew tog the 4-5-6 (4-4) sts cast off each side.
ASSEMBLY: Fold edge double towards WS and fasten.
CASING: Pick up approx 66 to 80 sts inside 1 edge st on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off-white along bottom edge of bonnet. K 1 row from WS and then work 4 rows stocking st. Change to violet, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS (= folding edge), and then work 5 rows stocking st with off-white, cast off in K sts from WS. Fold casing double towards WS and fasten. Crochet a Picot border round the front opening of bonnet – SEE ABOVE.
TIE STRING: Crochet a ch-string with crochet hook size 2.5 mm and 2 threads violet measuring approx 70 cm. Thread string through casing.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.03.2012
BONNET:
....
Work 6 rows stocking st (first row = RS), change to violet, K 1 row from RS and K 1 row from WS (= folding edge, measure piece from here).
Change back to off-white and work 6 rows in stocking st. Continue with M.2 with 1 garter st each side ...

Diagram

= off-white: K from RS, P from WS
= violet
= petrol/green mix
= heather
= off-white: K from WS, P from RS


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 17-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Carina Grunditz 06.03.2019 - 09:19:

Hej! Jag undrar om det verkligen ska vara 7 varv rätstickning på ärmens början, ser ut som slätstickning och på bak- och framstyckena är det ju slätstickning?

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 11:43:

Hej. Det ska vara 7 räta v (inte rätstickning) med natur och eftersom ärmen stickas runt så blir det då slätstickning. Lycka till!

Heidrun Voßmeier 26.09.2018 - 23:25:

Ich habe gerade mit der Jacke begonnen: 1. Die erste Reihe natur ist eine linke Reihe? 2. Nach 7 Reihen natur bin ich dann ja nicht auf der Seite, auf der ich den rosafarbenen Faden hängen habe, oder? wie geht das dann? Abschneiden? Maschen auf die andere Seite schieben? Aber bin ich dann nicht auf der linken Seite? Danke für Ihre Antwort

DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 08:37:

Liebe Frau Voßmeier, nach der 1. Reihe mit rosa können Sie den Faden abschneiden, so daß Sie dann die Krausrippe mit rosa bei einer Hinreihe anfangen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gabi Nickel 23.09.2018 - 17:02:

Ich bin bei der Abnahme der Haube. Wird in jeder Reihe, d.h. auch in der Rückreihe, nach dem Markierungsfaden 1M abgenommen?\\r\\nLg Gabi

DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 10:16:

Liebe Frau Nickel, es wird bei jeder Hinreihe abgenommen - Deutsche Anleitung wird korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marrie 27.08.2018 - 22:52:

Ik ben begonnen met breien en ik loop een beetje vast met de twee toeren oudroze die ik na 7 toeren naturel moet breien. Wat moeten die twee toeren oudroze daar eigenlijk doen? Ik dank u voor uw antwoord

DROPS Design 29.08.2018 kl. 11:16:

Dag Marrie, De 2 toeren oudroze na de 7 toeren naturel worden een vouwrand. Op het einde vouw je op deze plek de randen om en naai je ze aan de binnenkant vast.

Sylvia 14.07.2018 - 16:40:

Hi! Is it possible to get this pattern in Polish?

DROPS Design 15.07.2018 kl. 14:39:

Hi Sylvia, We have not translated this pattern into Polish so far. Hopefully we will be able to do so in the not too distant future!

Alexandra Korpvinge 19.11.2017 - 22:13:

I've been staring at the flower border of this pattern (jacket) for an hour and I just cannot get it to work. After putting all the stitches on the needle and decreasing, I have 217 stitches, like it says in the pattern. But then I'm supposed to work M.2, which is 16 stitches. That doesn't add up at all! I'll have 13 rounds of M.2 and then some. What am I doing wrong here?

DROPS Design 20.11.2017 kl. 09:54:

Dear Mrs Korpvinge, work the 217 sts as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, then repeat the 16 sts in M.2 a total of 13 times in width (= over the next 208 sts), work now the first 7 sts in M.2 and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Happy knitting!

Ulla 28.08.2016 - 11:06:

Hallo liebes Team, ich verstehe nicht, wie ich bei den Socken die Maschen auf eine Nadel bekomme, um die Reihen in Krausrippe zu stricken. Vorher stricke ich ja mit dem Nadelspiel.

DROPS Design 29.08.2016 kl. 08:56:

Liebe Ulla, das machen Sie wie beschrieben, indem Sie Maschen stilllegen und über die anderen Maschen in Hin-und Rückreihen weiterstricken. Das Prinzip für ist das gleiche, wie wenn Sie bei Socken das Fersenläppchen anstricken (zunächst ein Rohr stricken, dann eine kleine Fläche in Hin-und RückR), nur dass das Läppchen hier auf dem Fuss benötigt wird.

Kathrin 30.06.2016 - 21:44:

Hallo, kleine Frage, werden die Blenden rechts und links auch über die kleine Kante gestrickt oder fängt man darüber an, die , in meinem Fall 70 M aufzunehmen? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 06.07.2016 kl. 09:03:

Liebe Kathrin, die Kante wird über die gesamte Länge gestrickt.

Kathrin 09.05.2016 - 05:32:

Hallo, Frage zum Vorderteil, wird der 2. rosa Streifen (vor dem Muster M1) in der Hinrunde rechts und der Rückrunde links gestrickt, oder , wie der erste Streifen hin und rück rechts? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 10.05.2016 kl. 09:16:

Liebe Kathrin, der erste rosa Streifen hat die Krausrippe, da dies die Umbruchkante bildet, die dann nach innen gefaltet und angenäht wird. Der zweite Streifen wird glatt rechts gestrickt.

Mia 07.09.2014 - 20:45:

Kan man slet ikke købe jeres strik på nettet? Altså færdiglavet;-)

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