DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 11-26
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 -86/92

Materials: Garnstudio’s Karisma Superwash
100-150-200-200g colour no. 54, brown mix

DROPS circular needle and pointed needle size 3.5 mm and 4.5 mm
DROPS coconut button no. 516: 5-5-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

Knitting tension: 20 sts x 26 rows on needles size 4.5 mm with Karisma Superwash in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (back and forth on row): Knit all rows.
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Dec. tips (apply to raglan): Dec each side of 2 sts in stocking sts. All
dec are done from the RS. Dec 2 or 3 sts each time.
After 2 sts: Put 2/3 sts on a cable needle behind the piece, K1 st from the left needle tog with 1 st from the cable needle (= st on cable needle which is furthest to the right), repeat for all sts on cable needle.
Before 2 sts: Put 2/3 sts on a cable needle in front of the piece, slip 1 st from the cable needle (= the furthest one to the right), K1 from left needle, psso, repeat for all sts on cable needle.

Front and back piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Loosely cast on 124-139-154-179 sts (incl 1 edge st each side mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Brown mix Karisma Superwash. Continue as follows (1st row = the RS). 1 edge st, *K2, P3*, repeat from *-*, finish with K2 and 1 edge st. Knit 5 rows this way. On the next row dec all P3 to P2 = 100-112-124-144 sts. Change to circular needles size 4.5 mm and knit 2 rows of garter sts. Continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension. When the piece measures 18-20-22-24 cm knit the next row as follows (from the RS): K 22-24-27-32 sts (= right front), cast off 6-8-8-8 sts for armhole, K 44-48-54-64 sts (= back piece), cast off 6-8-8-8 sts for armhole, K 22-24-27-32 sts (= left front). Put the piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeves: Cast on 42-42-47-52 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm with brown mix Karisma Superwash. Knit back and forth as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge st, *K2, P3*, repeat from *-*, and finish with an edge st. After 5 rows dec all P3 to P2 = 34-34-38-42 sts. Change to needle size 4.5 mm and knit 2 rows of garter sts. Continue in stocking sts. At the same time when the piece measures 3 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 4-6-6-6 times on every 11-8-9-11 rows = 42-46-50-54 sts. When the piece measures 18-20-23-27 cm cast off 4-5-5-5 sts each side = 36-36-40-46 sts. Put the piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves on the same circular needle as the front and back piece where you cast off for the armholes = 156-168-188-216 sts. Insert a marking thread in all the transitions between sleeve and body pieces = 4 MT. Continue in stocking sts back and forth on needle and at the same time dec for raglan.
Raglan dec: Please read all of the following section before continuing. There are 8 dec per row and 2 sts in between each dec (i.e. 1 st each side of the MT). These 2 sts = raglan sts and are knitted in stocking sts throughout. Dec on every 4th row – see dec. tips above!
Dec as follows on the sleeves: 3 sts 1-2-2-2 times and 2 sts 5-4-5-6 times.
Dec as follows on the front and back piece: 3 sts 0-2-3-4 times and then 2 sts 6-4-4-4 times.
Neckline: At the same time when piece measures 25-28-30-33 cm, cast off 5-5-5-7 sts in each side towards mid front. Continue to cast off towards the neck every other row: 1 st 4 times. NB! Discontinue the dec for raglan on front pieces when they meet the dec for neckline. The above numbers for raglan dec apply to the back piece (i.e. there will be fewer raglan dec on the front pieces). After all dec for raglan and neckline have been completed = approx 38 to 47sts left and piece measures approx 29-32-35-38 cm up to the shoulder. Put remaining sts on a thread.

Pocket: Cast on 12-12-16-16 sts on needles size 3.5 mm with brown mix Karisma Superwash. Knit 2 rows of garter sts over all sts and then continue in Rib with 1 st of garter sts each side (seen from the RS). Cast off when the pocket measure 6-6-7-8 cm. Knit another pocket.

Assembly:
Left front band: Pick up approx 56-76 sts (divisible with 4) on needle size 3.5 mm and brown mix Karisma Superwash along the left front piece. Knit 2 rows of garter sts (1st row = WS). Continue in Rib with 1 st in garter sts and 2 K sts at the top and the bottom (seen from the RS). When the band measures approx 2 cm cast off with K over K and P over P.
Right front band: Knit as left front band but after 1 cm cast off for 4-4-5-5 buttonholes – the bottom one should be approx 1 cm from the bottom edge and the top one should be approx 5-6 cm from the top edge (remember there’ll be a buttonhole on neckline as well). 1 buttonhole = cast of 1 st and cast on a new st at the same place on the returning row. NB! It looks nicest to cast off in purl sts (seen from the RS) as follows: P2 tog.

Neck: Put the sts from the neck on a circular needle size 3.5 mm and pick up an additional 16 to 20 sts on each front piece (over the front bands too) = 70 to 86 sts (divisible with 4). Knit 2 rows of garter sts (1st row = WS). Continue in Rib with 1 st of garter sts and K2 sts each side mid front (seen from the RS). At the same time after 1 cm cast off for 1 buttonhole above the other buttonholes at the band. When the neck edge measures 2 cm cast off.
Sew the pockets to the front pieces approx 5-6-7-8 cm from the edge and 5-6-6-7 cm from the mid front.
Sew the sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and sew the openings underneath the arm. Sew in the buttons.

BLANKET – see pattern no 11-25

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 24.03.2014
under Yoke: ....
Neckline: At the same time when piece measures 25-28-30-33 cm, cast off 5-5-5-7 sts in each side towards mid front. Continue to cast off towards the neck every other row: 1 st 4 times. Note! Discontinue ....
Updated online: 19.06.2020
New yarn amount in the larges sizes:
100-150-200-200g colour no. 54, brown mix

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Marilyn Lunt wrote:

Hello, is there anywhere I can find a clearer picture of the Berlin jacket, please. Thank you. Marilyn

07.09.2023 - 06:20

country flag Ria Hagen wrote:

Hallo Ik begrijp niet hoe het minderen van de raglanmouwen precies in zijn werk gaat. Er staat nl. dat je op de goede kant moet minderen en ook dat het in elke vierde naald moet. Dat lijkt mij met elkaar in tegenspraak omdat de goede kant altijd de oneven naalden betreft. Hoe los ik dat op?

04.01.2021 - 21:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ria,

Wanneer je begint met minderen, minder je aan de goede kant en dan minder je 4 naalden later weer (dus weer aan de goede kant. Het maakt niet uit of je op een even of oneven naald zit, als je maar om de 4 naalden zit en aan de goede kant mindert.

09.01.2021 - 16:55

country flag Lenie Everts wrote:

Hoe maak je een knoopsgat in de bies bv. vest [breien] zonder te knippen in de steken?

02.11.2020 - 12:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lenie,

Je kan 1 omslag maken en de volgende 2 steken samen breien. Op de volgende naald ontstaat dan een gaatje, wanneer je de steken breit zoals ze zich voordoen. In deze video wordt dat uitgelegd.

03.11.2020 - 13:18

country flag Ingrid Held wrote:

Hallo, Ich möchte Sie bitten, die Mengenangabe des benötigten Garns zu überprüfen. Ich habe das Jäckchen in Größe 62/68 gestrickt, genau nach den Vorgaben, auch die Maschenprobe stimmt. Allerdings reicht die Wolle nicht mehr für das Halsbündchen. Auch für die größeren Größen sind nur 150g angegeben. Ansonsten eine schöne Anleitung! Freundliche Grüße

03.05.2020 - 23:23

Tamara Von Mappe wrote:

Hola, no entiendo el raglán, he armado y desarmado sin lograr el resultado, sería posible un pequeño video, con la explicación de disminuir 2/3 puntos, antes y después del maracapunto. He tejido muchos de sus patrones, pero este me ha ganado. Muchas gracias de antemano

24.08.2017 - 00:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Tamara. Las disminuciones aquí se trabajan en forma de imitación de la trenza, es decir, colocar 2/3 puntos en una aguja auxiliar y dejar detrás de la labor, ahora trabajar juntos de derecho el 1er punto de la aguja izquierda y el primer punto de la aguja auxiliar, trabajar de la misma manera todos los puntos de la aguja auxiliar. Mandaré tu sugerencia sobre el video al departamento de diseño.

29.08.2017 - 19:05

country flag Manoa wrote:

Quant aux diminutions pour les manches et le dos/devant, je ne comprends pas à quoi "manches", "dos" et "devant" correspondent et comment intégrer ces diminutions au raglan, le tour en obtenant 8 diminutions par rang (tous les rangs endroit ou bien seulement un rang endroit sur deux "diminuer tous les 4 rangs" ??...). Merci !

12.08.2015 - 09:36

Manoa answered:

Désolée, fausse manip ce matin : grand merci de vos explications... :)

12.08.2015 - 09:39

country flag Manoa wrote:

Quant aux diminutions pour les manches et le dos/devant, je ne comprends pas à quoi "manches", "dos" et "devant" correspondent et comment intégrer ces diminutions au raglan, le tour en obtenant 8 diminutions par rang (tous les rangs endroit ou bien seulement un rang endroit sur deux "diminuer tous les 4 rangs" ??...). Merci !

11.08.2015 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manoa, les diminutions du raglan ne se font pas à la même fréquence sur le dos/les devants et sur les manches, on va diminuer: sur les manches: 1-2 fois (cf taille) 3 m et 5-6 fois 2 m (on diminue uniquement les m des manches: après 2 m jersey au début de la manche et avant les 2 m jersey à la fin de la manche) et pour les devants et le dos: 0-4 fois 3 m et 6-4 fois 2 m: à la fin du 1er devant avant les 2 m jersey du raglan, pour le dos: après les 2 m jersey au début du dos et avant les 2 m jersey à la fin du dos, et pour le 2ème devant après les 2 m jersey. Bon tricot!

12.08.2015 - 08:51

country flag Manoa wrote:

Bonsoir, Je vous sollicite à nouveau pour le raglan : je ne comprends pas les explications :comment faire torsades et raglan en même temps, s'il faut 8 diminutions par rang? merci !

11.08.2015 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manoa, on n'a pas de torsades sur ce modèle, on diminue pour le raglan avant/après les 2 m jersey de la ligne du raglan: avant 2 m sur le devant droit, après et avant les 2 m jersey au début et à la fin de la manche et sur le dos, et après les 2 m jersey sur le devant gauche. Bon tricot!

12.08.2015 - 09:09

country flag Manoa wrote:

Bonjour, Je viens de débuter le gilet et m'interroge sur le premier point à utiliser : 1m lis *2m end, 3m env*, etc. Après les 5 rangs sur ce modèle (appliqué sur les rangs end comme sur les rangs env), j'alterne donc systématiquement mailles envers et endroit, si bien ca ne ressemble pas du tout aux côtes que j'ai l'impression de voir sur la photo du gilet marron foncé. Me suis-je trompée ? Qu'ai-je mal compris ? Merci de vos explications, bonne journée.

05.08.2015 - 22:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manoa, on tricote en bas de la veste des côtes 2 m env/3 m end (vu sur l'endroit, sur l'envers, les côtes seront 2 m end/3 m env) pendant 5 rangs comme sur la photo. Bon tricot!

06.08.2015 - 09:40

country flag Gisela wrote:

Ich vermisse die Angaben für die Kaputze (Mütze) LG Gisela

28.05.2015 - 13:42

DROPS Design answered:

Das Bild ist etwas unglücklich - die Anleitung gilt für die Jacke im Hintergrund. Für die Jacke mit Kapuze, die Sie suchen, gucken Sie unter Baby 11-27. Dann werden Sie sehen, dass dort dasselbe Bild verwendet wurde. Das liegt daran, dass die Anleitung schon älter ist. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

29.05.2015 - 08:52