DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 11-24
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 – 24 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92

Materials: DROS Karisma from Garnstudio
100-150-150-150 g colour no. 54, light beige brown

DROPS pointed needle size 3.5 mm and 4.5 mm, or needle needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.

DROPS wooden button no. 513: 3 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 20 sts x 26 rows on needles size 4.5 mm with Karisma in Stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

Front piece: Cast on 46-54-58-66 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Karisma. Change to needle size 3.5 mm and knit in Rib with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 2 cm knit 2 rows of garter sts. Change to needle size 4.5 mm and continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 5-6-7-8 cm knit next row from the RS as follows: 1 edge st, 16-20-22-26 sts of stocking sts, M.1 (= 12 sts), 16-20-22-26 sts of stocking sts and 1 edge st. Continue the pattern. After M.1 finish piece in stocking sts. At the same time when piece measures 15-16-17-18 cm cast off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 times, 2 sts 1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 3-2-2-2 times. At the same time when piece measures 19-21-22-24 cm cast off the middle 10-12-12-14 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 6-8-10-11 sts left for each shoulder.

Right shoulder (when worn): Cast off all sts when piece measures 24-26-28-30 cm (button band to be added later).

Left shoulder: Cast off all sts when piece measures 25-27-29-31 cm.

Back piece: Cast on and knit as done for front piece, but do not knit the pattern. Cast off for armholes as done for front piece =30-36-40-44 sts. Continue until piece measures 23-25-27-29 cm. Then cast off the middle 16-18-18-20 sts for neck and dec 1 st towards the neck on next row = 6-8-10-11 sts left for the shoulder.

Right shoulder (when worn): Cast off all sts when the piece measures 24-26-28-30 cm (buttonhole band to be added later).
Left shoulder: Cast off all sts when the piece measures 25-27-29-31 cm.

Assembly:
Left armhole (when worn).: Sew the left shoulder seam. Pick up 46-62 sts (divisible with 4 +2) from the RS along the left armhole on needles size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Knit 2 rows of garter sts beginning from the WS and continue with 5 rows of Rib with 1 edge st each side. Cast off loosely with K over K and P over P. Sew the left side seam up to the edge of the armhole.

Right armhole: Sew the side seam. Pick up 42-54 sts (divisible with 4 + 2) from the top of the shoulder along the right armhole: on needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Knit 2 rows of garter sts beginning from the WS edge and continue with 5 rows of Rib with 1 edge st each side. Cast off loosely with K mover K and P over P.

Neck: Pick up 54-66 sts (divisible with 4+2) (from the right shoulder) around the neck on needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma: Knit 2 rows of garter sts beginning from the WS and continue with 5 rows of Rib with 1 edge st each side. Cast off with K over K and P over P.

Shoulder band-back piece: Pick up 16 – 24 sts (divisible with 4) along the right shoulder on the back piece (also pick up over the neck and armhole edge) on needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Knit 5 rows of Rib with 1 edge st in garter sts and 2 K sts each side (seen from the RS). Then knit 2 rows of garter sts beginning from the RS. Cast off.

Shoulder band-front piece: Knit as done for the back, but after 1 cm cast off for 3 buttonholes evenly distributed, 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts on the returning row. Sew on the buttons to the shoulder band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 15.09.2016
Front piece: ... Change to needle size 3.5 mm and knit in Rib with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 2 cm knit 2 rows of garter sts...

Diagram

symbols = K from the RS, P from the WS
symbols = P from the RS and K from the WS.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Rebecca Martinsson wrote:

Finns det inte någon beskrivande video för hur man avmaskar endast i slutet av ett varv? Det bli en maska kvar längst ut i kanten om man maskar av enligt er instruktion av avmaskning på rätsida.

19.01.2024 - 19:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Rebecca. Litt usikker på om jeg helt skjønner hva du mener. Hvor i oppskriften (nøyaktig) mener du det blir 1 maske for mye og hvilken str. strikker du etter? mvh DROPS Design

29.01.2024 - 09:18

country flag Fanny wrote:

Bonjour, dans le tutoriel, pour les emmanchures, il est indiqué ceci : " rabattre pour les emmanchures de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs : 1 fois 3 m, 1-2-2-3 fois 2 m et 3-2-2-2-2 fois 1 m " Je ne comprends pas pourquoi il y a 5 propositions 3-2-2-2-2 et non 4 ? Cela ne se réfère-t-il pas à la taille choisie ? Et sinon, comment procéder? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide !

27.12.2023 - 23:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fanny, faute de frappe corrigée, il fallait lire 3-2-2-2 fois, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

02.01.2024 - 09:22

country flag Jennifer S Elliott wrote:

This pattern is poorly written.

20.04.2023 - 14:35

country flag Lene wrote:

Rigtig fin vest. Hvilken længde (cm) pind bruger du? Er det 50 eller 60 cm pind?

05.10.2022 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, vesten skal strikkes frem og tilbage, så du kan bruge den pind du foretrækker, maskerne skal nok få plads :)

07.10.2022 - 09:50

country flag Annemiek Bres wrote:

Hai! Maat 80 is tot 12 maanden. De omschrijving klopt niet:) groet Annemiek

07.11.2021 - 09:03

country flag Jenny Lankhaar wrote:

In de beschrijving van patroon drops slip-over drops baby 11/24 staat bij een hoogte van 18 cm (24 maanden)afkanten voor de armsgaten enz. Is dat de totale hoogte? Echter op de tekening van het patroon staat aangegeven als totale hoogte bij 31 cm. Wat is juist?

25.10.2021 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jenny,

Vanaf een totale hoogte van 18 cm, dus vanaf de opzet, kant je af voor de armsgaten. Dit is dus de hoogte vanaf de opzet tot de oksel. Je breit daarna nog een stuk door en de totale hoogte van het werk, dus tot de schouder, is 31 cm.

26.10.2021 - 10:37

country flag Hilde Høeg wrote:

Hei. Jeg er nesten ferdig med denne vesten, men synes det hadde vært greiere å lage den på rundpinne. Hva er grunnen til at man velger rette pinner fremfor rundpinne på et mønster? Mvh

13.01.2021 - 18:06

country flag Federica wrote:

Hi ! Thanks for the pattern. I am knitting for my daughter, I am at the armhole. As I am sort of a beginner, could you explain better what it means to bind off "3 sts 1 times, 2 sts 1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 3-2-2-2 times" ? Does each "time" mean row? I can't understand and neither find tutorials online for this step. Thanks!

04.10.2020 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Federica, Yes, binding off every 2nd row: The first row you bind off 3 stitches on each side (for both armholes) then 1 row without binding off, bind off 2 stitches on each side on the next row and so on. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

05.10.2020 - 09:13

country flag Hilde Sommerfeld wrote:

Hallo, hier meine Frage: Ist die Wolle Karisma von Drops mulesingfrei?

19.09.2020 - 19:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Sommerfeld , hier lesen Sie mehr über die Fasern, aus den die DROPS Garne bestehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.09.2020 - 09:14

country flag Hilde Sommerfeld wrote:

Hallo, hier meine Frage: Ist die Wolle Karisma von Drops mulesingfrei? Gruß Hilde Sommerfeld

19.09.2020 - 19:23