DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.95€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Little Shepherd

Knitted baby jumpsuit with or without buttons between the legs, in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Alpaca

DROPS Baby 16-23
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-200) gr f.nr 162, blue sea
And use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 2918, turquoise
50 g for all sizes colour no 6834, blue/turquoise mix
50 g for all sizes colour no 0100, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm for the 2 smaller sizes and 60 cm for the 3 larger sizes) size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 35 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm. In M.1 knitting tension will be width = 27 sts because of the use of several colours. DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 513: 4 pcs for shoulders and 10 pcs for button fastening between legs if needed.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.50 € /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.95€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. The diagram shows 1 pattern repeat and the entire pattern is worked in stocking st. NOTE: When working Fabel in M.1, we’ve used an orange section of the ball.

DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec on each side of marker at front as follows: work row until 3 sts before marker, K2 tog, K2 (marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

DECREASING TIP-2:
Make all dec from RS inside 2 sts by K2 tog.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
JUMPSUIT:
Worked from bottom of legs towards the top.

LEG (without buttons):
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 62-70-76 (84-86) sts with blue/turquoise mix Alpaca on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work 2 cm garter st – SEE ABOVE. Change to Fabel and continue in stocking st. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 3-3-4 (4-5) cm inc 1 st on each side of marker on every 4-6-6 (6-9) round a total of 9-9-10 (10-10) times = 80-88-96 (104-106) sts. When piece measures 14-18-21 (23-30) cm divide the piece by marker and continue back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip both legs on the same circular needle afterwards) – AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 82-90-98 (106-108) sts.
When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-32) cm cast off 3 sts each side = 76-84-92 (100-102) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

LEG (with buttons):
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 64-72-78 (86-88) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) with blue/turquoise mix Alpaca on circular needle size 2.5 mm and work 2 cm garter st back and forth on needle – SEE ABOVE.
Change to Fabel and continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 3-3-4 (4-5) cm inc 1 st each side on every 4-6-6 (6-9) row a total of 9-9-10 (10-10) times = 82-90-98 (106-108) sts. When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-32) cm cast off 3 sts each side = 76-84-92 (100-102) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

BODY PIECE:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 2.5 mm = 152-168-184 (200-204) sts. Insert 1 marker mid front and 1 marker mid back – round beg mid back. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts mid front – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 – and repeat the dec on every other round a total of 6 times = 140-156-172 (188-192) sts.
Remove marker at front. When piece measures 30-37-45 (50-57) cm work shortened rows at back as follows (to make pants wider at the back) – beg by marker mid back: Work 12 sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread, work 24 sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread. Continue like this, working 12 more sts before each turn another 8-10-10 (12-12) times. Now work 1 round on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-12-10 (8-12) sts evenly on round = 126-144-162 (180-180) sts. Remove marker mid back.
NOW INSERT 1 MARKER EACH SIDE AS FOLLOWS:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: Insert markers mid between 2 sts with 63 sts on front and back piece.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: Insert markers in a st with 71 sts on front and back piece +1 st each.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: Insert markers mid between 2 sts with 81 sts on front and back piece.
SIZE 2 AND 3/4 YEARS: Insert markers in a st with 89 sts on front and back piece +1 st each.
ALL SIZES: Change to blue/turquoise mix Alpaca – round now beg by marker at one of the sides.
Work 2 rounds garter st – SEE ABOVE. Change to turquoise Alpaca and work 2 rounds garter st. Continue in M.1 – make sure to have the arrow in diagram mid front. After M.1 complete piece in turquoise garter st – AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 6-6-6 (8-8) sts evenly (dec equal amount of sts front and back) = 120-138-156 (172-172) sts.
When piece measures 38-46-54 (59-67) cm (measured at front) cast off 4-5-6 (7-7) sts each side for armhole = 56-64-72 (79-79) sts on front and back piece and now complete each piece separately.

FRONT PIECE: = 56-64-72 (79-79) sts. Continue in garter st back and forth on needle, AT THE SAME TIME cast off 1 st each side to shape the armhole – SEE DECREASING TIP-2 – on every other row a total of 8-9-9 (8-5) times = 40-46-54 (63-69) sts. When piece measures 43-52-60 (66-71) cm cast off the middle 12-14-18 (21-23) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off to shape the neckline on every other row – SEE DECREASING TIP-2: 1 st 5 times = 9-11-13 (16-18) sts left on shoulder. When piece measures 48-57-66 (72-80) cm make 2 buttonholes on shoulder as follows: work 1 st, K2 tog, 1 YO, work 2-4-6 (9-11) sts, K2 tog, 1 YO, work 2 sts. Work 2 rows on all sts and cast off.

BACK PIECE = 56-64-72 (79-79) sts. Cast off for armholes as described for front piece = 40-46-54 (63-69) sts. When armhole measures 8-9-10 (11-11) cm cast off the middle 18-20-24 (27-29) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off to shape the neckline on every other row – SEE DECREASING TIP-2: 1 st 2 times = 9-11-13 (16-18) sts left on shoulder. Cast off when armhole measures 11-12-13 (14-14) cm.

ASSEMBLY (without buttons between legs):
Sew the inside of legs at the top inside 1 edge st. Sew opening between legs, front of leg towards back of leg.
Sew on buttons on shoulders.

ASSEMBLY (with buttons between legs):
Edge for buttons on the back of leg:
Pick up 84-104-120 (130-166) sts with turquoise Alpaca on circular needle size 2.5 mm – beg at bottom of left leg, continue up along leg and down along right leg. Work 10 rows garter st back and forth on needle and cast off.
Edge for buttons on the front of leg:
Pick up 84-104-120 (130-166) sts with turquoise Alpaca on circular needle size 2.5 mm – beg at the bottom of right leg, continue up along leg and down along left leg. Work 3 rows garter st back and forth on needle. On next row cast off for 10 buttonholes evenly distributed (5 buttonholes on each leg). 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Work another 6 rows garter st and cast off.
Sew buttons to edge on the back of leg, and on shoulders

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.01.2009
100-100-150 (150-200) g colour 162, blue sea

Diagram

symbols = off-white Alpaca
symbols = blue/turquoise Alpaca
symbols = turquoise Alpaca
symbols = Fabel
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Tiny Kramer wrote:

Ik begrijp niets van de maatvoering/centimeters tov het geschreven patroon en de met centimeters aangegeven tekening. In het patroon staat voor maat 6/9: ‘brei bij een hoogte van 37 cm. verkorte toeren in het achterpand.’ Vervolgens moet bij een hoogte van 46 cm. afgekant worden voor de armsgaten, terwijl daar tussendoor ook nog de band gebreid moet worden.

18.03.2024 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tiny,

De verkorte toeren op het achterpand worden voor het patroon M.1 gemaakt. Daarna brei je inderdaad patroon A.1 en even later kan je af voor de armsgaten. Je houdt de maten in de beschrijving aan.

20.03.2024 - 11:16

country flag Irmgard Dennert wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte das Modell Drops Baby 16-23 stricken. Ist Fabel Fb nr. 162 blue sea die gleiche wie print? Gibt es die Farbe blue sea nicht mehr?

24.08.2022 - 08:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dennert, Farbe Fabel Nr 162 ist immer noch lieferbach (siehe Farbkarte); wenn Sie Hilfe mit den Farben brauch, wenden Sie sich bitte am besten direkt an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort wird man Ihnen gerne damit weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.08.2022 - 13:26

country flag Astrid Emberland Grandalen Grandalen wrote:

Jeg lurer på om det er rett antall masker på et ben i denne oppskriften? Jeg syns det virker for mange

03.05.2022 - 01:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Astrid, hvis du har 26 masker på 10 cm (ifølge opskriften) så får du målene i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. Benet nederst måler da 24 cm i omkreds i den mindste størrelse :)

03.05.2022 - 09:26

country flag Jean wrote:

I love Drops Fabel yarn and patterns and following a sock knitting marathon I have lots left. I wonder if this lovely Little Shepherd jumpsuit pattern could be adapted to fit an 18” baby doll which I am clothing for my great granddaughter who lives in Canada Thank you Jean M

16.02.2021 - 20:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jean, it looks like the doll is almost matching a premature size (= 40/44 cm approx. haight of baby in cm), maybe you can find more matching patterns for premature here. Happy knitting!

17.02.2021 - 08:00

country flag Aia Eid wrote:

Hej Hvad menes der med omg. Når man skal strikke benene? Er det frem og tilbage på pinden, som betragtes som en omgang eller er det en pind? Mvh Aia

29.01.2020 - 00:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Aia. På denne modellen kan man strikke med eller uten knapper mellom bena. Når det strikkes med knapper, strikkes det frem og tilbake og beskrivelsen er da pinner. Strikker man uten knapper, strikkes det rundt og beskrivelsen blir da omgang. God Fornøyelse!

03.02.2020 - 12:03

country flag Aia Eid wrote:

Hej Hvad menes der med omg. Når man skal strikke benene? Er det frem og tilbage på pinden, som betragtes som en omgang eller er det en pind? Mvh Aia

27.01.2020 - 00:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Aia. Med 1 omgang menes det å strikkes rundt 1 gang (BEN uten knepping), når det strikkes BEN med knepping strikkes det frem og tilbake på pinnene, da blir frem 1 omgang og tilbake 1 omgang (=2 omganger/pinner). God Fornøyelse!

27.01.2020 - 10:56

country flag Thora wrote:

Wat zijn de kleuren verhoudingen? zie alleen een tekening van M1 en niet hoe de kleuren in het pakje zijn verwerkt, zie het wel op de foto.

06.01.2017 - 10:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Thora. Dit is het kleurverloop in het garen. Kijk ook op het kleurenoverzicht van DROPS Fabel hier

09.01.2017 - 15:10

country flag Malika wrote:

Danke, das war genau die Info, die ich brauchte.

10.07.2016 - 14:46

country flag Malika wrote:

2. Dann soll man in jeder R 12M (unabhängig von der Größe???) mehr stricken, d.h. hin 12M, rück 24M, erneut hin 24+12M, erneut rück 36+12M usw. ist das richtig? Dann komme ich doch in diesen 8 Malen in der kleinsten Größe (152M insg.) auf mehr M, als ich auf der Nadel habe, nämlich 16x12M=192M. Das bedeutet, dass sich die M an der Vorderseite irgendwann überschneiden. Das wirkt auf mich nicht logisch. Könnt ihr mir da weiterhelfen? Vielen herzlichen Dank!

08.07.2016 - 18:11

DROPS Design answered:

2. Teil der Frage: Sie stricken jeweils 12 M mehr und kommen somit nach der 8. Wdh auf 120 M (8 x 12 M = 96 M + 24 M, die Sie schon auf der Nadel hatten). Die nächste R stricken Sie über alle 140 M und nehmen dabei gleichmässig verteilt 14 M ab, Sie haben danach also noch 126 M auf der Nadel.

09.07.2016 - 14:50

country flag Malika wrote:

Hallo, ich bin an der Stelle nach 30 cm, an der es heißt, 12M Stricken, dann drehen, 24 M stricken. Hier habe ich gleich zwei Fragen: 1. Das soll man dann in der kleinsten Größe 8 Mal wiederholen. Heißt das insgesamt hin und rück 8 Mal oder 4 mal hin und 4 mal rück?

08.07.2016 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Malika, es wird 8 x insgesamt wiederholt, also 4 x in der Hin-R und 4 x in der Rück-R

09.07.2016 - 14:46