DROPS Baby / 16 / 3

Little Jamboree by DROPS Design

Set of jacket knitted from side to side, socks and bonnet for baby and children in DROPS Fabel

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Colour no 161, pink dream:
WHOLE OUTFIT:
200-200-250 (300-350) g
JACKET ONLY:
150-150-200 (200-250) g

DROPS POINTED and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 51 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS no 513: 5 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET

SHORTENED ROWS, BODY PIECE:
To make jacket wider at the bottom work shortened rows as follows:
* Work 20-22-24 (26-28) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 64-70-80 (90-98) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 20-22-24 (26-28), turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work all 70-76-86 (96-104) sts, turn piece and work return row *. Repeat from *-*
1 repeat of the above = 12 rows on sts at the bottom and 2 rows on sts at the top.

SHORTENED ROWS, SLEEVES:
* Work 41-47-51 (63-72) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 59-67-74 (88-100) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work all 65-73-80 (94-106) sts, turn piece and work return row *. Repeat from *-*.
1 repeat of the above = 6 rows on sts at the bottom and 2 rows on sts at the top.

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JACKET
Worked from side to side in garter st, beg on left front piece, then work sleeve, back piece, the other sleeve and right front piece.

BODY PIECE:
LOOSELY cast on 70-76-86 (96-104) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work 10 rows garter st back and forth on needle = front band (first row = RS, this row beg at the bottom of jacket).
Now work shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR BODY PIECE.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx 13½-15-17 (18-19½) cm (measured mid piece from cast on row to the side) slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts (towards bottom) on a stitch holder (= the side). Cut the thread and now beg again by casting on 36-42-46 (58-67) new sts at the beg of row (for sleeve) = 65-73-80 (94-106) sts on row. Work remaining sts on row, turn piece and work return row. Continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR SLEEVES.
When piece measures 16-17-18 (18-20) cm from where new sts were cast on for sleeve (measured where widest) cast off the first 36-42-46 (58-67) sts on next row from RS, work remaining sts on row, turn piece and work return row and now work the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-76-86 (96-104) sts. Insert a marker in the middle st on row and continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR BODY PIECE.
When piece measures 23-26-30 (32-35) cm (measured mid piece from marker) slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts (towards bottom) on a stitch holder (= the other side).
Cut the thread and beg again by casting on 36-42-46 (58-67) new sts at the beg of row (for sleeve) = 65-73-80 (94-106) sts on row. Work remaining sts on row and work return row. Continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR SLEEVE – until sleeve measures the same as the first sleeve.
On next row from RS cast off the first 36-42-46 (58-67) sts and work remaining sts on row. Turn piece and work return row and now work the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-76-86 (96-104) sts. Continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR BODY PIECE.
When right front piece measure the same as left front piece (less the 10 rows on front band) work front band as follows (first row = RS): 4 rows on all sts, on next row cast off for 5 buttonholes as follows: work 14-16-18 (20-24) sts, cast off 2 sts, * work 11-12-14 (16-17) sts, cast off 2 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, work the last 2 sts.
Turn piece and work return row, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts over each buttonhole. Work 4 rows on all sts, cast off LOOSELY.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew under arm seams, edge to edge, and sew on buttons.
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HAT

INCREASING TIP:
Make all inc from RS.
Inc 1 st before and after st with marker by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.

DECREASING TIP:
Make all dec from RS.
Dec 1 st on each side of st with marker. Beg 1 st before st with marker. Slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, slip 1 st as if to K (= st with marker), K tog next st and st on cable needle, psso.
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HAT:
Worked back and forth on needle in garter st.
Cast on 119-127-135 (139-145) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel and work 6 rows garter st (first row = RS).
Insert 7 markers in piece from RS as follows:
M-1 in the first st on row
M-2 in st 22-24-26 (28-31)
M-3 in st 43-47-51 (55-61)
M-4 in st 60-64-68 (70-73)
M-5 in st 77-81-85 (85-85)
M-6 in st 98-104-110 (112-115)
M-7 in the last st on row.
Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME beg inc and dec – SEE INCREASING and DECREASING TIP!
Inc 1 st after M-1 on every other row,
dec 1 st on each side of M.2 on every other row,
inc 1 st before M-3 on every other row,
inc 1 st after M-3 on every 4th row,
dec 1 st on each side of M.4 on every 4th row,
inc 1 st before M-5 on every 4th row,
inc 1 st after M-5 on every other row,
dec 1 st on each side of M-6 on every other row,
inc 1 st before M-7 on every other row.
When piece measures 13-15-16 (18-19) cm (measured from lowest point by M-2 or M-6) work next row as follows from RS: * K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* AT THE SAME TIME as casting off.

ASSEMBLY:
Back of hat = cast off row, i.e. 2 whole points and 2 half points. The middle of the 3 whole points on the other side of piece = cast on row, mid front.
Sew hat tog, edge to edge, along cast off row as follows: sew first half point to first whole point. Sew the other side of first whole point to first half of the second whole point. Sew the other side of the second whole point to the last half point. Sew hat tog mid back, edge to edge, to avoid a chunky seam.

TIE STRINGS:
Cast on 4 sts on needle size 4 mm with Fabel and work a tube as follows:
* K1, place yarn in front of piece (towards you), slip 1 st as if to P, place yarn behind piece again *, repeat from *-* across row and repeat on all rows.
Cast off when string measures approx 20-22-24 (26-28) cm.
Make 2 and sew to hat each side at bottom of point.
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SOCKS:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.

HEEL DECREASES:
ROW 1 (= RS): work row until 6-7-7 (7-8) sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 2 (= WS): work row until 6-7-7 (7-8) sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 3 (= RS): work row until 5-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 4 (= WS): work row until 5-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 8-10-10 (10-12) sts on row.

DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec as follows before rib: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after rib: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

DECREASING TIP-2:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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SOCK:
Cast on 44-48-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work 7-8-9 (10-11) cm rib, K2/P2. Now keep the first 18-22-22 (22-26) sts on needle for heel (slip the remaining 26-26-26 (30-30) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot). Work stocking st back and forth on needle on heel sts for 3-3½-4 (4-4½) cm – insert a marker. Now work heel decreases – SEE ABOVE – and then pick up 8-9-10 (11-12) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 50-54-56 (62-66) sts. Continue in rib on the 26-26-26 (30-30) sts on upper foot and stocking st on remaining sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on either side of rib – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 on every other round a total of 5-7-6 (7-9) times = 40-40-44 (48-48) sts. Work K over K and P over P until sock measures 7-8-9 (10-12) cm from marker on heel (3-3-3 (4-4) cm remain). Insert 1 marker each side with 20-20-22 (24-24) sts on upper foot and 20-20-22 (24-24) sts under foot. Continue in stocking st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers –SEE DECREASING TIP-2 – on every other round 3 times and then on every round 5-5-6 (7-7) times = 8 sts. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm.

Diagram

= sew a to a
= sew b to b
= sew c to c
= sew d to d


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 16-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (75)

Ellen Burnett 10.07.2020 - 14:41:

Does this pattern possibly come in adult women’s sizes? I want one for myself.

DROPS Design 10.07.2020 kl. 16:40:

Dear Mrs Burnett, you will find all our jacket patterns for women worked sideways here - add filters if necessary. Happy knitting!

Carola Norberg 05.05.2020 - 14:39:

Hej igen. Tack för ett snabbt svar. =) Mvh C. Norberg.

Carola Norberg 04.05.2020 - 22:04:

Hej Skrev att jag bytt garn från drops fabel till drops delight. Min fråga är hur får jag till stickfasthet och rätt mått när jag bytt garn? Alltså 10x10?Så storleken blir rätt.

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 08:22:

Hej Du får prova dig fram till vilka stickor du ska använda för att få rätt stickfasthet (i detta fall 26 m x 51 v i rätstickning på 10 x 10 cm) med det garnet. Du kan läsa mer om stickfasthet här. Lycka till!

Carola Norberg 02.05.2020 - 11:18:

Hej Undrar om man kan byta garnet (drops fabel) i detta mönster till drops delight? Har inhandlat drops delight. Tacksam för svar Mvh C. Norberg

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 12:02:

Hej Det går bra att göra det (båda tillhör Garngrupp A). Se bara till att få samma stickfasthet som uppges i mönstret och att beräkna riktig garnåtgång . Lycka till!

PARVIN PADHAM 04.07.2019 - 13:36:

HI, Sine l started knitting pattern I have so problems I knitted 5 times half of the pattern by l would have finished knitting two of this Design l can't put down I desperately trying very hard to knit. What giving me the problem is neck it is too large. So started knitting again I have sleeve I don't know if neck to big eg loss how much should round the neck?

DROPS Design 04.07.2019 kl. 16:14:

Dear Mrs Padham, make sure you have the correct tension in both width and height - the neck should be approx. 10-12 cm when jacket lies flat - see chart. Should you need any individual assistance, please contact your DROPS store showing them your work (even sending them pictures), it would be much easier for them to assist you. Happy knitting!

Wilmo 01.07.2019 - 19:12:

Bonjour, existe-t'il un patron similaire en taille adulte? j'aimerais bien me faire une veste tricotée ainsi...

DROPS Design 02.07.2019 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Mme Wilmo, vous trouverez plusieurs gilets de ce type parmi les gilets femme tricotés en transversal. Bon tricot!

PARVIN PADHAM 25.06.2019 - 11:19:

Hi, first of all, let say how much l Much appreciated you helping me. l want to know when knitted lift side do keep working as before when piece measures 23-26-30 (32-35) cm (measured midpiece from marker) slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts (towards the bottom) on a stitch holder (= the other side). does that mean work back and sleeve like the other side thank you

DROPS Design 25.06.2019 kl. 11:30:

Dear Parvin Padham, yes right, you insert a marker in the middle stitch on the row on back piece, and work short rows as before over all stitches (back piece); when the piece measures 23-26-30 (32-35) cm from the marker (= whole back piece at marker - see chart), work the 2nd sleeve as you worked the first one. Happy knitting!

PARVIN PADHAM 19.06.2019 - 11:03:

Hi, have knitted until sleeve it goes wrong when I cast on for the sleeve and the On next row from RS cast off the first 36-42-46 (58-67) sts and work remaining sts on row. Turn piece and work return row and now work the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-76-86 (96- I go somewhere my sleeve end up the wrong way, please help

DROPS Design 19.06.2019 kl. 13:10:

Dear Mrs Parvin Padham, after you have worked the side, you cut the yarn, then cast on the new sts for sleeve and work the remaining stitches on top of yoke, turn, work row back and start now short rows. See also video for sleeves. Happy knitting!

PARVIN PADHAM 06.06.2019 - 10:14:

Hi l am very grateful for an answer l got other problem l to have bind off the first 36-42-46 (58-67) sts on next row from RS, work remaining sts on row, turn piece and work return row and now work the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-76-86 (96-104) sts. Insert a marker in the middle st on row and continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR BODY PIECE.

DROPS Design 06.06.2019 kl. 10:29:

Dear Mrs Parvin, when sleeve is done, you cast off the first 36 sts at the beg of row from RS, then work row to the end (towards neck), turn and work these 36 sts + the 41 sts from the side/back piece you put on a thread before working sleeve = there are now 70 sts on needle. Happy knitting!

PARVIN PADHAM 03.06.2019 - 10:09:

Hi,l am having problems understanding your pattern i haveknitted back up to 18cm thats it l don't understand far than that . Please can you explain thanks

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 10:36:

Dear Mrs Padham, when piece measures 18 cm (4th size), slipt the first 60 sts from RS (= bottom of jacket) on a stitch holder. Cut the yarn. Now cast on 58 new stitches, then work the remaining stitches on needle (top of jacket) = 94 sts, turn and work next row over all stitches. Happy knitting!

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