DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Little Jamboree

Set of jacket knitted from side to side, socks and bonnet for baby and children in DROPS Fabel

DROPS Baby 16-3
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56-62/68-74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Colour no 161, pink dream:
WHOLE OUTFIT:
200-200-250 (300-350) g
JACKET ONLY:
150-150-200 (200-250) g

DROPS POINTED and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 sts x 51 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS no 513: 5 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET

SHORTENED ROWS, BODY PIECE:
To make jacket wider at the bottom work shortened rows as follows:
* Work 20-22-24 (26-28) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 64-70-80 (90-98) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 20-22-24 (26-28), turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work all 70-76-86 (96-104) sts, turn piece and work return row *. Repeat from *-*
1 repeat of the above = 12 rows on sts at the bottom and 2 rows on sts at the top.

SHORTENED ROWS, SLEEVES:
* Work 41-47-51 (63-72) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work 59-67-74 (88-100) sts, turn piece, slip first st as if to K, tighten thread and work return row, work all 65-73-80 (94-106) sts, turn piece and work return row *. Repeat from *-*.
1 repeat of the above = 6 rows on sts at the bottom and 2 rows on sts at the top.

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JACKET
Worked from side to side in garter st, beg on left front piece, then work sleeve, back piece, the other sleeve and right front piece.

BODY PIECE:
LOOSELY cast on 70-76-86 (96-104) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work 10 rows garter st back and forth on needle = front band (first row = RS, this row beg at the bottom of jacket).
Now work shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR BODY PIECE.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx 13½-15-17 (18-19½) cm (measured mid piece from cast on row to the side) slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts (towards bottom) on a stitch holder (= the side). Cut the thread and now beg again by casting on 36-42-46 (58-67) new sts at the beg of row (for sleeve) = 65-73-80 (94-106) sts on row. Work remaining sts on row, turn piece and work return row. Continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR SLEEVES.
When piece measures 16-17-18 (18-20) cm from where new sts were cast on for sleeve (measured where widest) cast off the first 36-42-46 (58-67) sts on next row from RS, work remaining sts on row, turn piece and work return row and now work the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-76-86 (96-104) sts. Insert a marker in the middle st on row and continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR BODY PIECE.
When piece measures 23-26-30 (32-35) cm (measured mid piece from marker) slip the first 41-45-52 (60-65) sts (towards bottom) on a stitch holder (= the other side).
Cut the thread and beg again by casting on 36-42-46 (58-67) new sts at the beg of row (for sleeve) = 65-73-80 (94-106) sts on row. Work remaining sts on row and work return row. Continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR SLEEVE – until sleeve measures the same as the first sleeve.
On next row from RS cast off the first 36-42-46 (58-67) sts and work remaining sts on row. Turn piece and work return row and now work the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-76-86 (96-104) sts. Continue with shortened rows – SEE ABOVE FOR BODY PIECE.
When right front piece measure the same as left front piece (less the 10 rows on front band) work front band as follows (first row = RS): 4 rows on all sts, on next row cast off for 5 buttonholes as follows: work 14-16-18 (20-24) sts, cast off 2 sts, * work 11-12-14 (16-17) sts, cast off 2 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, work the last 2 sts.
Turn piece and work return row, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new sts over each buttonhole. Work 4 rows on all sts, cast off LOOSELY.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew under arm seams, edge to edge, and sew on buttons.
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HAT

INCREASING TIP:
Make all inc from RS.
Inc 1 st before and after st with marker by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.

DECREASING TIP:
Make all dec from RS.
Dec 1 st on each side of st with marker. Beg 1 st before st with marker. Slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, slip 1 st as if to K (= st with marker), K tog next st and st on cable needle, psso.
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HAT:
Worked back and forth on needle in garter st.
Cast on 119-127-135 (139-145) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Fabel and work 6 rows garter st (first row = RS).
Insert 7 markers in piece from RS as follows:
M-1 in the first st on row
M-2 in st 22-24-26 (28-31)
M-3 in st 43-47-51 (55-61)
M-4 in st 60-64-68 (70-73)
M-5 in st 77-81-85 (85-85)
M-6 in st 98-104-110 (112-115)
M-7 in the last st on row.
Continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME beg inc and dec – SEE INCREASING and DECREASING TIP!
Inc 1 st after M-1 on every other row,
dec 1 st on each side of M.2 on every other row,
inc 1 st before M-3 on every other row,
inc 1 st after M-3 on every 4th row,
dec 1 st on each side of M.4 on every 4th row,
inc 1 st before M-5 on every 4th row,
inc 1 st after M-5 on every other row,
dec 1 st on each side of M-6 on every other row,
inc 1 st before M-7 on every other row.
When piece measures 13-15-16 (18-19) cm (measured from lowest point by M-2 or M-6) work next row as follows from RS: * K1, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* AT THE SAME TIME as casting off.

ASSEMBLY:
Back of hat = cast off row, i.e. 2 whole points and 2 half points. The middle of the 3 whole points on the other side of piece = cast on row, mid front.
Sew hat tog, edge to edge, along cast off row as follows: sew first half point to first whole point. Sew the other side of first whole point to first half of the second whole point. Sew the other side of the second whole point to the last half point. Sew hat tog mid back, edge to edge, to avoid a chunky seam.

TIE STRINGS:
Cast on 4 sts on needle size 4 mm with Fabel and work a tube as follows:
* K1, place yarn in front of piece (towards you), slip 1 st as if to P, place yarn behind piece again *, repeat from *-* across row and repeat on all rows.
Cast off when string measures approx 20-22-24 (26-28) cm.
Make 2 and sew to hat each side at bottom of point.
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SOCKS:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.

HEEL DECREASES:
ROW 1 (= RS): work row until 6-7-7 (7-8) sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 2 (= WS): work row until 6-7-7 (7-8) sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 3 (= RS): work row until 5-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, turn piece,
ROW 4 (= WS): work row until 5-6-6 (6-7) sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st between each dec until there are 8-10-10 (10-12) sts on row.

DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec as follows before rib: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after rib: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

DECREASING TIP-2:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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SOCK:
Cast on 44-48-48 (52-56) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with Fabel. Work 7-8-9 (10-11) cm rib, K2/P2. Now keep the first 18-22-22 (22-26) sts on needle for heel (slip the remaining 26-26-26 (30-30) sts on a stitch holder = upper foot). Work stocking st back and forth on needle on heel sts for 3-3½-4 (4-4½) cm – insert a marker. Now work heel decreases – SEE ABOVE – and then pick up 8-9-10 (11-12) sts on each side of heel and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 50-54-56 (62-66) sts. Continue in rib on the 26-26-26 (30-30) sts on upper foot and stocking st on remaining sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on either side of rib – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 on every other round a total of 5-7-6 (7-9) times = 40-40-44 (48-48) sts. Work K over K and P over P until sock measures 7-8-9 (10-12) cm from marker on heel (3-3-3 (4-4) cm remain). Insert 1 marker each side with 20-20-22 (24-24) sts on upper foot and 20-20-22 (24-24) sts under foot. Continue in stocking st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of both markers –SEE DECREASING TIP-2 – on every other round 3 times and then on every round 5-5-6 (7-7) times = 8 sts. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.
Sock measures approx 10-11-12 (14-16) cm.

Diagram

symbols = sew a to a
symbols = sew b to b
symbols = sew c to c
symbols = sew d to d
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (89)

country flag Susan Davis wrote:

The pattern states that we are starting on the left from side. Is this the left while looking at the child with the sweater on or the left as the child is wearing it?

15.02.2024 - 04:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Susan, This is the left side of the garment when worn. Happy knitting!

15.02.2024 - 06:33

country flag Lisa Max wrote:

Little Jamboree Jacket: Made this for my granddaughter when she was tiny--now she is 8 and would love a now-size version of it. Have you ever published a girls version? thank you!

18.10.2023 - 00:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, the only somewhat similar pattern we have would be this one, but you then might have to add sleeves. Happy knitting!

18.10.2023 - 08:29

country flag Doortje Van Der Velden wrote:

Ik krijg niet de punten onderaan het lijf. Er komt wel een mooie A-lijn. Is ook leuk en maak ik wel af maar vind vooral het vestje met de punten onderaan leuk. Is dat misschien een ander nummer?

30.07.2023 - 17:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Doortje,

Vermoedelijk is er een verkeerd beeld geschetst van het patroon door de foto, want het lijkt inderdaad alsof er punten in zitten, maar ik denk dat dit een vouw o.i.d. is in de foto. In het patroon zijn ook geen punten verwerkt.

01.08.2023 - 20:34

country flag Ellen Burnett wrote:

I want to knit the Lichen / Lichen Woods baby sweater but every source for it refers me back to the Drops Baby 16-3 Little Jamboree pattern (sawtooth hem). I printed off the free pattern but could not find any instructions included for the Lichen / Lichen Woods variation (straight hem). Am I overlooking something? Is there a separate pattern for the Lichen sweater that I am unable to locate? Advise please. Thanks!

24.03.2023 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellen, the Lichen Woods variation of the pattern hasn't been designed by us. It was adapted from this Baby pattern, Baby 16-3. You could check with the person that designed this variation to see which adaptations she made to the pattern and how. Happy knitting!

26.03.2023 - 19:04

country flag Ellen Burnett wrote:

Would love to have this pattern in adult sizes in order to make one for myself. Is it possible that adult sizes are available for this pattern? If not, do you offer any knitting patterns that might be very similar in style / details / construction to B16-3 for adults? Thanks so much.

24.02.2023 - 23:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellen, for the jacket you could check out these models: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=7127&cid=19 https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=6775&cid=19 or check other sideways jackets here: https://www.garnstudio.com/search.php?action=search&c=women-jackets&construction=sideways&page=1&lang=en. Happy knitting!

26.02.2023 - 22:37

country flag Carole Ostlie wrote:

Help on baby drops 16-3…I’ve done the beginning of body and short rows for the 12 to 18 mth size. I cannot tell what to do next. If I go back to the body it asks for 6 3/4 inch before starting the next step of dividing stitches etc. what do I do, where do I proceed after the short rows on the body, right front HELP PLEASE. My yarn lady moved quite far away and is also on a trip now. Thank you.

26.05.2022 - 00:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carole, you need to continue working the short rows until you reach the 6 3/4 in measurement. Then you divide the stitches. Happy knitting!

26.05.2022 - 23:15

country flag Carole Ostlie wrote:

I need help on where to go…what to do after the short rows done on babydrops16-3. I’m making 12-18 mth size and cannot figure out what to do after the short rows body to get enough for 6 3/4 inch to go to next step on the body directions. Help please? Is there a phone number to speak to someone, to email a photo or what. I am stuck, and my yarn lady moved quite far from me and is on a trip as well!!

26.05.2022 - 00:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ostlie, you should repeat the short rows until piece measures 6¾ on the widest - then you wil work 1st sleeve - what about joining our DROPS Workshop, you will be able to show pictures and ask other knitters. Happy knitting!

27.05.2022 - 09:17

country flag Lotte Davidsen wrote:

Jeg undrer mig over de forkortede pinde på ærmerne. Som det er beskrevet, bliver ærmerne ikke symmetriske. Mangler der en vendepind i beskrivelsen af de forkortede pinde i ærmerne, eller skal vendepindende på ærme nr. 2 strikkes i modsat rækkefølge?

31.03.2022 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotte, det betyder ikke noget i hvilken rækkefølge du strikker de forkortede pinde, men du skal strikke samme antal rapporter på ærme nr 2 så får du lige mange pinde på begge ærmer :)

05.04.2022 - 08:07

country flag Lotte Davidsen wrote:

"Når arb måler ca 15 cm (målt midt på arb fra opslåningskanten og ud til siden" ... det forstår jeg ikke. Der er jo faktisk fire forskellige længder. Er det, I siger, at jeg skal måle på den næstlængste længde?

01.03.2022 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lotte. Du måler fra oppleggskanten og ut til siden (der du har pinnen). Det er siden på jakken. mvh DROPS Design

07.03.2022 - 11:37

country flag Jutta Lube wrote:

Wie werden die Zacken an der Jacke gemacht?

04.11.2021 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Lube, diese Jacke wird quer gestrickt und mit verkürzten Reihen damit es mehr Reihen unten als beim Hals gestrickt werden, diese Zacken werden dann dank dem Garn DROPS Fabel erhalten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.11.2021 - 07:13