DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 18-2
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56 - 62/68 - 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
500-550-600 (650-750) g colour no 48, beige mix

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio
400-400-450(450-550) g colour no 15, mauve

Or use:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
600-600-700 (800-900) g colour no 5310, light brown

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 8 mm (80 cm) – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS no 511: 5-5-6 (6-6) pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat row 2.

INCREASING TIP:
Inc by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front piece.
1 buttonhole = cast off 3rd st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 months: 1, 7, 13, 19 and 25 cm
SIZE 6/9 months: 1, 8, 15, 22 and 29 cm
SIZE 12/18 months: 1, 7, 14, 21, 28 and 35 cm
SIZE 2 years: 1, 8, 16, 24, 32 and 40 cm
SIZE 3/4 years: 1, 10, 19, 28, 37 and 46 cm

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HOLE FOR SEAT BELT IN CAR SEAT:
You can make a hole on front and back piece for car seat belt.
Make the first hole when back piece measures approx 16-20-23 (28-33) cm (or required measurements) by casting off the middle 4 sts on needle.
On next row cast on 4 new sts over cast off sts and continue as before.
Repeat on front piece when piece measure from shoulder 42-47-52 (58-59) cm.

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KNITTING TIPS: For a nice edge along hood, front edges and sleeve edges, slip 1st st on every row starting from the edge instead of knitting it.

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BUNTING BAG:
Worked in one piece, beg at the bottom of back piece, cast on for sleeves, cast off for neck and finish at the bottom of front piece. To fit in all sts work piece back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 36-40-44 (46-50) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Snow, Wish or Andes. Work 6 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE! Continue in stocking st until piece measures 37-45-52 (62-67) cm – AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly on the last row = 32-36-40 (42-46) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work 6 rows garter st on all sts and now continue in moss st – SEE ABOVE. When piece measures 46-54-61 (71-76) cm cast on new sts each side for sleeves at the end of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 5 sts 1-1-1 (2-2) times and 9-10-12 (12-16) sts 1 time = 68-74-82 (94-106) sts. Incorporate inc sts in moss st as you go along.
NOTE! After the last inc work 3 sts each side (= sleeve edges) in garter st.
When piece measures 54-63-71 (82-88) cm continue as follows: 3 garter sts, 19-22-25 (31-37) moss st, 24-24-26 (26-26) garter sts (= mid back), 19-22-25 (31-37) moss sts, 3 garter sts. After 6 rows garter st mid back cast off the middle 12-12-14 (14-14) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Slip sts on the right side on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: = 28-31-34 (40-46) sts. Continue in moss st with 6 garter sts towards neckline and 3 garter sts towards sleeve edge. When piece measures 58-67-75 (86-92) cm insert a marker = mid shoulder – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Continue as before.
When piece measures 1-1-2 (2-2) cm inc 1 st towards neckline inside 6 garter sts on next row from RS – SEE INCREASING TIP. Work return row and repeat the inc on next row from RS. Work return row and now cast on 7-7-8 (8-8) new sts at the end of row towards mid front = 37-40-44 (50-56) sts. Work 2 rows garter st on the 6-7-8 (8-8) new sts, work remaining sts as before. Continue in moss st with 6 garter sts towards mid front (= front band) and 3 garter sts at sleeve edge as before.
When piece measures 9-10-11 (11-12) cm cast off sleeve sts at the side at beg of row as follows: 9-10-12 (12-16) sts 1 time, 5 sts 1-1-1 (2-2) times and 4 sts 1 time = 19-21-23 (24-26) sts.
Continue in moss sts with 6 garter sts on front band until piece measures approx 18-19-20 (21-22) cm (fold piece by marker on shoulder to make sure there is an equal amount of moss st rows on front and back piece). Work 6 rows garter st on all sts and continue in stocking st with 6 garter sts on front band. AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 2 sts evenly (do not inc on front band) = 21-23-25 (26-28) sts. When piece measures approx 35-41-46 (52-56) cm slip sts on a stitch holder – adjust so that next row is from RS.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Slip sts from stitch holder on shoulder back on needle = 28-31-34 (40-46) sts, and work like left front piece, but mirrored. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for buttonholes on front band – SEE ABOVE.
When piece measures 35-41-46 (52-56) cm – adjust to left front piece – slip sts from left front piece in on the same needle = 42-46-50 (52-56) sts. On next row (= RS) work front band sts tog as follows: Work stocking st on the first 15-17-19 (20-22) sts, slip 6 front band sts from right front piece on cable needle in front of piece, * work tog 1 st from cable needle and 1 st from left front band *, repeat from *-* 6 times = 6 dec sts. Work remaining sts on row in stocking st = 36-40-44 (46-50) sts. Continue in stocking st on all sts. When piece measures approx 55-64-72 (83-89) cm (fold piece double by marker on shoulder to measure front piece to back piece) work 6 rows garter st on all sts and cast off loosely.

ASSEMBLY: Fold piece double by shoulder and sew under arm and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew cast on row to cast off row at bottom of bag, sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam.

HOOD: Pick up 37-39-41 (45-47) sts on needle size 8 mm round neckline from RS (beg mid front). Work moss back and forth on needle. When hood measures 18-20-22 (24-26) cm work 2 rows garter st on all sts and cast off loosely.
Sew hood tog at the top. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (90)

country flag Mette Elie Lorentzen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke hvordan man legger opp nye masker inni arbeidet. Jeg skal lage hull til setebeltet på kjøredressen men finner ikke ut hvordan jeg skal legge opp nye masker når jeg strikker tilbake igjen og skal lage nye masker over der jeg felte maskene på forrige omgang

17.04.2016 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. I denna video ser du hur du lägger upp nya maskor. Lycka till!

29.04.2016 - 10:35

country flag Denise wrote:

I love the sleeping bag and adding a hole for the car seat belt, but I'm finding it extremely difficult to follow and I always thought I was great at reading knitting patterns, but having to read this one over and over again. Hope it turns out correct as was going to make another. We will just have to see.

12.03.2016 - 15:16

country flag Camilla wrote:

Et annet spm: det angis at stolpen er på 6 masker, men det legges jo til to masker innenfor rillene og det vil jo bli økt til 8 masker etter disse økningene. Skal de maskene i riller lengst unna midten omgjøres til perlestrikk når de nye maskene legges til slik at det alltid er 6 masker riller?

23.11.2015 - 03:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla, ja alle nye masker strikkes ind i perlestrik og de 6 yderste skal fortsætte i riller. God fornøjelse!

25.11.2015 - 14:10

country flag Camilla wrote:

Holder på med venstre siden: "Strikk 1 p tilbake fra vrangen, på slutten av denne p legges det opp 7-7-8 (8-8) nye m mot midt foran = 37-40-44 (50-56) m. Strikk 1 rille over de 7-7-8 (8-8) nye m – de øvrige m strikkes som før." Hvor skal de 7 nye maskene legges opp? Pinnen tilbake fra vrangen strikkes fra halsåpning til enden av ermet. Etter man har strikket 1 rille over disse maskene, hva gjør man så med disse?

23.11.2015 - 03:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camilla, de nye masker er stolpen mod midt foran. Første gang strikker du en rille frem og tilbage og bagefter strikkes 6 af dem i riller ned langs hele stolpen midt foran. God fornøjelse!

25.11.2015 - 14:18

country flag Anni wrote:

Soooo süß! Mit welchem Garn und in welcher Farbe ist der Sack denn auf dem Bild gestrickt? Mit Eskimo in Nr 48 oder in Andes Nr 5310? Mein Sohn trägt jetzt Größe 80. Reicht es wohl trotzdem, wenn ich 74/80 stricke? 86/92 ist wohl dann viel zu groß. Nicht, dass er in dem Sack verschwindet und nicht, dass ihm der Sack dann im Sommer passt :)

14.11.2015 - 06:39

country flag Morin, Brigitte wrote:

Le patron du nid d'ange est ce qu'il pourrait être converti au crochet?

09.11.2015 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Morin, probablement, nous ne sommes toutefois pas en mesure de pouvoir répondre à chaque demande individuelle de ce type, mais votre demande a été enregistrée. Demandez conseil à votre magasin DROPS. Bon crochet!

09.11.2015 - 16:02

country flag Kathrin wrote:

Ich habe noch drops Baby Alpaka Silk Wolle übrig und würde daraus gerne diesen Schlafsack stricken. Wie kann ich die Strickanleitung am einfachsten anpassen?

07.04.2015 - 09:03

DROPS Design answered:

Leider können wir keine Anpassung des Schlafsacks für eine andere Garnstärke anbieten. Die Garne sind sehr unterschiedlich dick. Es besteht die Möglichkeit, die Anleitung mit 4 Fäden BabyAlpaca Silk zu stricken, das entspricht 1 Faden Eskimo (unsere Garne sind in Garngruppen eingeteilt, 1 Faden Gruppe E = 4 Fäden Gruppe A), aber dann müssten Sie vorher ausrechnen, wie viel Garn Sie benötigen (Gesamtmeterzahl von Eskimo mit 4 multipliziert). Ansonsten stöbern Sie für andere Ideen einfach mal in der Datenbank mit den Filtern "Hauptkategorie: Baby" und "Garngruppe/Maschenprobe: Gruppe A".

07.04.2015 - 11:04

country flag Anna wrote:

I would like to know how would I make this pattern with using a zipper instead of button holes? I'm a very new knitter still learning. I love your pattern and am excited to try it.

01.04.2015 - 20:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, you can take inspiration from a pattern with a zipper. Remember you can get any individual assistance from your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

02.04.2015 - 09:50

country flag Anne W wrote:

Hallo, ich bekomme ein enkelkind, dassehr gross wird. Also ist 56 cm bald zu klein, 62 -68 cm aber zu gross. Was kann ich machen? danke für deinen rat.

21.10.2014 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Ich würde vorschlagen, trotzdem 62-68 cm zu stricken - dann trägt das Enkelkind den Schlafsack einfach etwas später und die Vorfreude darauf hält noch etwas länger an. Und direkt zur Geburt könnten Sie vielleicht einfach eine schöne Babydecke stricken? Hierzu gibt es ja auch einige Anleitungen.

22.10.2014 - 11:53

country flag Pia Achton wrote:

Hej Findes der et alternativt garn, som tåler udvask? ingen vasker i hånden i vores familie.

15.09.2014 - 11:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Det er kun Peak i gruppe E du kan vaske i maskine. Du kan evt strikke den i dobbelt (to) traade DROPS Big Merino - den er til maskinevask. Se alle vores garntyper her

15.09.2014 - 12:05