DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 11-2
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 - 24 months
Size in cm: 50/56 - 62/68 - 74/80 - 86/92

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250g colour no 06, pink

DROPS circular needle and pointed needles size 4 mm

DROPS button, no 620, 4 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

Knitting tension: 21 sts x 28 rows on needle size 4mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Moss sts: 1st row: *K1. P1*, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: P over K, K over P. Repeat 2nd row.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Buttonhole: Make 4 buttonholes on right front edge from the RS. 1 buttonhole = cast off the 3rd st from the edge and cast on new st in the same place on the return row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 4, 8, 12 and 16 cm
Size 6/9 months: 5, 10, 14 and 18 cm
Size 12/18 months: 5, 10, 15 and 20 cm
Size 24 months: 6, 11, 17 and 22 cm

Dec tips (apply to neckline): Dec inside 4 sts in moss sts + 1 P st (= 5 edge sts) from the RS.
Dec as follows after 5 edge sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 5 edge sts: K2 tog.

Back and front piece:
The jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 121-137-153-169 sts (incl 4 front edge sts each side towards mid front) on needle size 4 mm with Muskat and knit 2 rows garter sts (1st row = RS). Knit next row as follows from the RS: 4 front edge sts in moss sts, P1, 112-128-144-160 sts of M.1 and 4 front edge sts in moss sts. Continue pattern like this. At the same time when piece measures 4-5-5-6 cm make buttonhole on right front edge – see explanation above. After M.1 continue in stocking sts with 4 front edge sts in moss sts and 1 P st each side, at the same time dec 11-11-13-13 sts evenly on first row in stocking sts = 110-126-140-156 sts. When piece measures 16-17-19-21 cm knit next row as follows from the RS: 27-31-34-38 sts (= right front piece), cast off 4 sts for armhole, knit 48-56-64-72 sts (= back piece), cast off 4 sts for armhole, knit 27-31-34-38 sts (= left front piece). Now finish each piece separately.

Right front piece: = 27-31-34-38 sts. Dec for armhole on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-3-4-5 times = 21-24-26-29 sts. At the same time when piece measures 17-19-21-23 cm dec 1 st towards mid front for neckline on every other row a total of 11-12-12-13 times – see Dec tips = 10-12-14-16 sts left on shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm.

Left front piece: = 27-31-34-38 sts. Knit as right front piece, but mirrored.

Back piece: = 48-56-64-72 sts. Cast off for armholes as described for front piece = 36-42-48-54 sts. When piece measures 23-25-28-30 cm knit moss sts over the middle 22-24-26-28 sts with 1 P st on each side of the moss sts (seen from the RS). After 4 rows with moss sts cast off the the middle 14-16-18-20 sts for neck. Continue with 4 sts in moss sts and 1 P st towards neckline and dec 1 st inside these 5 sts on the next row – see Dec Tips = 10-12-14-16 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-32-35 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 32-34-36-38 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on pointed needles size 4 mm with Muskat and knit M.2. After M.2 finish the sleeve in stocking sts. At the same time when piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st each side on every 4-4-4-5 row a total of 8-9-10-11 times = 48-52-56-60 sts. When piece measures 17-17-19-23 cm dec for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2 times, 1 st 3-5-4-3 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2 times and then 3 sts each side until piece measures 23-24-26-30 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.07.2016
New yarn amount in size 6/9 and 24 months.

Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250g colour no 06, pink

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = yo
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 11-2

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Comments / Questions (86)

country flag Caroline wrote:

Hallo, das wird ja sehr groß! Die Maschenprobe hat gestimmt, aber bei 153 Maschen hat die Jacke einen Umfang von 90 cm. Was ist da los?

09.03.2024 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Caroline, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann haben Sie nach dem Lochmuster insgesamt 140 Maschen auf der Nadel, dh 68 Maschen für das Rückenteil - ca 32 cm in der Breite, genauso wie in der Skizze. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

11.03.2024 - 08:20

country flag Fenny Dekker wrote:

Kan in het vestje ook op gewone breipennen breien in plaats van rondbreinaalden?

05.10.2023 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Fenny,

Ja, dat zou wel kunnen met dit vestje. Als je een hele kleine maat maakt passen de steken van de voorpanden en het achterpand wel op gewone naalden met knop, zodat je geen zijnaden hoeft te maken en het kantpatroon mooi doorloopt.

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

18.11.2023 - 15:09

country flag Aja Modes-Schreier wrote:

Können Sie diese süße Strickjacke auch in 98/104 und etwas größer umrechnen? Ich habe sie schon oft gestrickt, aber jetzt sind meine Enkelinnen 3…. Das wäre super! Alle lieben die Jacke.Danke für Ihre Hilfe.

19.05.2023 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage umrechnen, aber hier und da finden Sie alle unsere Jacken für die Größe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.05.2023 - 13:12

country flag Linda wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke indtagning vedr. halsindtagning. Kan det formuleres på en anden måde. Hilsen Linda

18.05.2023 - 06:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linda, du tager ind indenfor de 5 yderste kantmasker, på hver pind fra retsiden. Det vil sige strik de 5 kantmasker, tag 1 m løs af p som om den skulle strikke ret, 1 ret løft den løse maske over, strik videre til du har 7 masker tilbage, 2 ret sammen og strik de 5 kantmasker :)

23.05.2023 - 09:20

country flag Elena wrote:

Salve, ho appena iniziato questo modello ma non ho capito il primo rigo di M1. Quando dice \"1m dir. su dir. e 1 m. rov. su rov.\" si riferisce al ferro o alla singola maglia? Potete darmi una spiegazione? Grazie sempre per la vostra disponibilità

08.02.2023 - 09:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, se sta facendo riferimento alla legenda, si intende diritto o rovescio del lavoro

10.02.2023 - 16:12

country flag Monica Alvarez wrote:

Hola el diagrama nadamas son vueltas en derechogracias

07.06.2022 - 04:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Monica. El diagrama muestra todas las filas del patrón (de ida y vuelta) vistas por el lado derecho, es decir, por ejemplo el cuadrado blanco (representa un punto en punto jersey) se trabaja de derecho por el lado derecho y se trabaja de revés por el lado revés.

08.06.2022 - 19:41

country flag Becker wrote:

Warum werden 137 Maschen angeschlagen? 4 Maschen Perlmuster, 128 Maschen M 1, 4 Maschen Perlmuster ergeben 136 Maschen! Wofür ist diese eine Masche mehr?

17.05.2022 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Becker, in Ihrer Beschreibung fehlt die linke Masche (damit das Muster symmetrisch ist): 4 Blenden-M im Perlmuster (s.o.), 1 M li, 112-128-144-160 M im Muster M.1 und 4 Blenden-M im Perlmuster. , so haben Sie: 4+1+128+4=137 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.05.2022 - 08:14

country flag Israela Rath-franklin wrote:

Need to see a picture of the back. Please post.

07.12.2021 - 17:40

country flag Israela Franklin wrote:

Where do you have a photo of the back of the sweater? I saw comments referring to it, but I need to see the actual photo. If you can please email the photo as an attachment, -I would greatly appreciate this. Thanks.

07.12.2021 - 17:36

country flag Brigandet wrote:

Bonjour. Je ne sais pas tricoter avec des aiguilles circulaires. Presque tous vos modèles le sont. Comment lire le diagramme si je veux utiliser des aiguilles droites. Et si c est possible. Le modèle que je souhaite faire est le modèle DROPS baby 11-2

06.11.2021 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brigandet. Le gilet est petit (taille enfant) et est tricote en allers retours donc vous pouvez facilement remplacer les aiguilles circulaires par les aiguilles droites. Vous lisez un diagramme tricot de droite à gauche et de bas en haut. Comment lire les diagrammes dans l’ouvrage tricote en allers et retours vous trouverez ICI. Bon tricot!

06.11.2021 - 20:00