DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 106-10
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 31½"-34 5/8"-37 3/4"–41"-45"-49½"
Full length: 26 3/4"-27½"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-30"-30 3/4"

Materials:DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
color no 8105, ice blue: 400-450-500-550-600-650 g

DROPS pointed needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] - or size needed to obtain 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
1 repeat of M.4 (front band) = width approx
4 cm [1½”].

DROPS silver button, nr 534: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Pattern: See Diagram M.1 to M.4. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

Moss st, (back piece): First row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-* and finish with K1. Second row: P over K and K over P. Repeat second row.

Moss st, (front piece and sleeve): First row: *P1, K1*, repeat from *-*. Second row: K over P and P over K. Repeat second row.

Decreasing tip: Dec inside 3 front band sts towards mid front. Make all dec from RS! Even if you cannot fit in a full pattern repeat after a dec, continue in pattern to the 3 front band sts, but be careful not to make more YO than dec on row.
Dec as follows before 3 front band sts: K2 tog
Dec as follows after 3 front band sts: K2 tog into back of st.

Garter st (back and forth on needle): K all rows.


Back piece: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 121-133-145-157-173-193 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm [US 2or3]. K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. Continue in Rib as follows from RS: 1 edge st, *P3, K1*, repeat from *-* and finish with P3 and 1 edge st. Remember the knitting gauge! When piece measures 6 cm [2 3/8’’] K 1 row from RS, at the same time dec 22-26-28-30-34-40 sts evenly = 99-107-117-127-139-153 sts. P 1 row from WS and now continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. Continue in moss st – see above – with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 12 cm [4 3/4’’] K 1 row from RS, and P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 99-105-117-123-135-153 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A (= 3 sts), M.2B (= 6 sts) repeated on the next 90-96-108-114-126-144 sts, M.2C (= 4 sts) and 1 edge st. Continue like this until piece measures 22 cm [8 3/4’’] (adjust to a full vertical repeat). K 1 row from RS, and P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 97-104-118-125-132-153 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.3A (= 7 sts) repeated on the next 91-98-112-119-126-147 sts, M.3B (= 4 sts) and 1 edge st. When piece measures 33 cm [13’’] K 1 row from RS, and P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 97-105-117-125-133-153 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in moss st with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 42-43-41-42-41-42 cm [16½’’-17’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’] K 1 row from RS, and P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 99-105-117-123-135-153 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A (= 3 sts), M.2B (= 6 sts) repeated on the next 90-96-108-114-126-144 sts, M.2C (= 4 sts) and 1 edge st. Work 2-2-3-3-4-4 vertical repeats of M.2. Piece now measures approx 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm [19 1/4’’-19 3/4’’-20’’-20½’’-21’’-21 1/4’’]. K 1 row from RS, at the same time bind off 4 sts at beg of row for armhole, work row and at the same time
Size S: dec 1 st mid row
Size M + L + XL + XXL + XXXL: inc 6-2-3-1-1 sts evenly
= 94-107-115-122-132-150 sts. P 1 row from WS, at the same time bind off 4 sts for armhole at beg of row = 90-103-111-118-128-146 sts. Continue in M.1, at the same time dec to shape the armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 1-2-4-4-3-8 times and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-1 times. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. There are now 84-91-95-102-114-130 sts on row. Now continue in M.3A (= 7 sts) repeated across the row with 0-0-2-2-1-9 stockinette sts each side (for size L + XL + XXL + XXXL continue to dec for armhole, i.e number of stockinette sts each side dec). When all dec are complete there are 84-91-91-98-112-112 sts on row. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm [25½’’-26 3/8’’-27 1/8’’-28’’-28 3/4’’-29½’’] work garter st on the middle 28-27-27-34-34-34 sts, work remaining sts as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm [26’’-26 3/4’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’-29 1/8’’-30’’] bind off the middle 22-21-21-28-28-28 sts for neck = 31-35-35-35-42-42 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in pattern with 3 garter sts towards neckline until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm [26 3/4"-27½"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-30"-30 3/4"]. Bind off loosely.

Left front piece: Cast on 57-65-73-77-85-93 sts (includes 1 edge st at side and 3 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3 mm [US 2or3]. Work the 3 front band sts in garter st – see above - until finished measurements. K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. Continue in Rib as follows from RS: 1 edge st, *K1, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with K1 and 3 front band sts. When piece measures 6 cm [2 3/8’’] K 1 row from RS, at the same time dec 11-15-17-17-19-21 sts evenly = 46-50-56-60-66-72 sts. P 1 row from WS and now continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. Continue in moss st – see above – with 1 edge st at side and 3 front band sts towards mid front. When piece measures 12 cm [4 3/4’’] K 1 row from RS, and P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 47-53-59-59-65-71 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A (= 3 sts), M.2B (= 6 sts) repeated on the next 36-42-48-48-54-60 sts, M.2C (= 4 sts) and 3 front band sts. Continue like this until piece measures approx 22 cm [8 3/4’’] (adjust to a full vertical repeat). K 1 row from RS, and P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 50-50-57-57-64-71 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.3C (= 4 sts), M.3A (= 7 sts) repeated on the next 42-42-49-49-56-63 sts and 3 front band sts. When piece measures 33 cm [13’’] K 1 row from RS, and P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 44-46-52-54-60-68 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in moss st with 1 edge st at side and 3 front band sts towards mid front. When piece measures 42-43-41-42-41-42 cm [16½’’-17’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’-16 1/8’’-16½’’] K 1 row from RS, and P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 47-53-59-59-65-71 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A (= 3 sts), M.2B (= 6 sts) repeated on the next 36-42-48-48-54-60 sts, M.2C (= 4 sts) and 3 front band sts. At the same time after 2 rows of M.2 dec to shape the neckline – see Decreasing tip – as follows: 1 st on every 8th row a total of 0-3-3-3-3-4 times and 1 st on every 6th row a total of 9-5-7-7-8-4 times. After 2-2-3-3-4-4 vertical repeats of M.2, K 1 row from RS, at the same time bind off 4 sts at side for armhole. Note! Continue dec for neckline. P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1, at the same time dec to shape the armhole as described for back piece. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. Now continue in M.3A (= 7 sts) repeated across the row with 0-0-2-2-1-9 stockinette sts at side and 3 front band sts towards mid front. When all dec are complete there are 31-35-35-35-42-42 sts on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm [26 3/4"-27½"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-30"-30 3/4"]. Bind off loosely.

Right front piece: Cast on and work like left front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 70-70-74-74-78-82 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm [US 2or3]. K 1 row from RS and P 1 row from WS. Continue in Rib as follows from RS: 1 edge st, *K1, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. When piece measures 5 cm [2’’] K 1 row from RS, at the same time dec 14 sts evenly = 56-56-60-60-64-68 sts. P 1 row from WS and now continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 2 sts evenly = 58-58-62-62-66-70 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in moss st – see above – with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 10 cm [4’’] K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 2-2-4-4-4-6 sts evenly = 60-60-66-66-70-76 sts. P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 3-3-3-3-5-5 sts evenly = 63-63-69-69-75-81 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A (= 3 sts), M.2B (= 6 sts) repeated on the next 54-54-60-60-66-72 sts, M.2C (= 4 sts) and 1 edge st. Continue like this until piece measures approx 21 cm [8 1/4’’] (adjust to a full vertical repeat). K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 2-2-2-5-2-2 sts evenly = 65-65-71-74-77-83 sts. P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 0-0-1-5-2-3 sts evenly = 65-65-72-79-79-86 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.3A (= 7 sts) repeated across the row and 1 edge st. When piece measures approx 30 cm [11 3/4’’] K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 1-3-4-3-5-4 sts evenly = 66-68-76-82-84-90 sts. P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 2-4-2-2-2-4 sts evenly = 68-72-78-84-86-94 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue in moss st with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures approx 40-40-39-39-38-36 cm [15 3/4’’-15 3/4’’-15 1/4’’-15 1/4’’-15’’-14 1/4’’] K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 4-4-4-5-6-4 sts evenly = 72-76-82-89-92-98 sts. P 1 row from WS. Continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 3-5-5-4-7-7 sts evenly = 75-81-87-93-99-105 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A, M.2B repeated on the next 66-72-78-84-90-96 sts, M.2C and 1 edge st. When piece measures approx 47-47-46-46-45-43 cm [18½’’-18½’’-18’’-18’’-17 3/4’’-17’’] K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 2-2-3-3-4-4 sts evenly = 77-83-90-96-103-109 sts. P 1 row from WS and now continue in M.1. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1, K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 2-3-3-4-4-5 sts evenly = 79-86-93-100-107-114 sts. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.3A repeated across the row and 1 edge st. At the same time when piece measures 51-51-50-50-49-47 cm [20’’-20’’-19 3/4’’-19 3/4’’-19 1/4’’-18½’’] (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off 4 sts each side and dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 2-3-3-4-4-4 times, 1 st 5-3-5-4-3-6 times and then 3 sts each side until piece measures 57-57-57-57-56-56 cm [22½’’-22½’’-22½’’-22½’’-22’’-22’’]. Now bind off 4 sts each side and bind off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 58-58-58-58-57-57 cm [22 3/4’’-22 3/4’’-22 3/4’’-22 3/4’’-22½’’-22½’’].

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Front bands: Pick up 180 to 210 sts on needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] on left front piece from mid back towards bottom edge (pick up in the outermost front band st on body piece). K 1 row from WS, at the same time adjust number of sts to 219-231-231-243-243-255 (includes 1 edge st mid back and 2 edge sts at bottom edge). Continue as follows from RS: 1 edge st, M.4 on the next 216-228-228-240-240-252 sts, K1 and 1 garter st. Work 6 vertical repeats of M.4, now work first row in M.4, at the same time bind off loosely. Repeat along right front band, but pick up sts from bottom edge towards mid back.

Assembly: Sew front bands tog mid back inside 1 edge st. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew buttons on left front piece, just before the 3 front band sts on body piece. Place the top button approx 2 cm [3/4’’] from dec for neckline and the bottom one approx 24 cm [9½’’] from casting on row. Place the remaining buttons evenly in between. Use the holes (YO) in M.4 on right front piece as buttonholes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = K2 tog into back of st
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = P3 tog
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Birgitta wrote:

Bara längtar tills jag är färdig.

01.02.2016 - 22:12

country flag Redhead wrote:

Hi I can't seem to get the m2 pattern correct is it m2a and m2b only for 108 stitches? Then m2a and m2c for the last few stitches. I've tried various combinations and at some point the pattern does not seen to work no matter what I've tried. Also if it is m2a and m2b what happens at the top when it runs into m2c I hope I'm making sence

02.03.2015 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Redhead, you work M2A over the first 3 sts, then repeat M2B over the next 108 sts (ie you will repeat the diagram M2B a total of 18 times), and finish with M2C over the last 4 sts (do not forget the edge sts). On row 7, work the last st in M2A (replaced by a YO) with the first st of M2B- and work the last st in M2B with first sts in M2B or M2C. Happy knitting!

03.03.2015 - 09:16

country flag Lisa wrote:

På rad 13 (Bakstycket) står det tydligt hur man delar upp raden! Ingalunda delbart med 13 utan med 4+x(6)+5

01.10.2013 - 17:19

country flag Agneta wrote:

Mönsterstickningen "M2" är felritad. Mönstret ska täcka över 13 masker, dvs 13 rutor, och det stämmer inte

01.10.2013 - 10:56

country flag Marcia wrote:

I am in progress on this beautiful sweater. The Drops Alpaca yarn is so incredibly soft. The pattern is fun and interesting to work, somewhat like a sampler of beautiful stitches. I can hardly wait to put on the end result. I've knit the fronts on the same needle at the same time and will do the same with the sleeves.

17.06.2008 - 23:33

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Ja Blendem steht für Blendenmasche. In diesem Falls je 3 Blendem auf beiden Seiten

13.04.2008 - 19:39

country flag Heidrun Bergau wrote:

Hallo Frau Matzau, was bedeutet in dieser Anleitung "blendem"? Vielleicht Blende oder Blendenmasche? Liebe Grüsse Heidrun

12.04.2008 - 21:55

country flag Eva wrote:

Fantastiskt söt cardigan. Skulle gärna vilja ha mönstret nu.

24.02.2008 - 15:56

country flag Anni wrote:

Utrolig sød cardigan. Venter utålmodigt på opskriften.

06.02.2008 - 09:01

country flag Ann wrote:

Denne er nydelig...

02.02.2008 - 22:33