DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 4.15 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.75CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS Baby 6-2
SWEATER:

Sizes: 0/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years)
Finished measurements: 54-60-66 (74-80-86) cm [21.25" - 23-5/8" - 26" (29-1/8" - 31.5" - 33-7/8")]

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
(100% superwash wool) 50 g./110 m./120 yards
250-250-300 (300-350-400) g. Col. 01, natural
2-2-2 (0-0-0) DROPS buttons no. 513

DROPS 3 mm [US 2] and 3.5 mm [US 4] circular and double pointed needles, or sizes to obtain correct gauge.

(Blanket: see instructions under Model 13.)

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 4.15 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.75CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needle in Pattern 3 = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"]

Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from *-*.

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.
Pattern: See charts. (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side.


Body: Cast on 118-132-146 (162-176-190) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 3 cm [1.25"] rib. Change to larger circular needles and knit 2 rows garter st, increasing 30-28-26 (30-36-34) sts evenly distributed on the 1st row = 148-160-172 (192-212-224) sts. After the garter st rows, establish the pattern as follows (start at the marker):
Sizes 0/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 mos. + 2 years: 6-9-12 (17) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 1, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, 12-18-24 (34) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 1, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, 6-9-12 (17) sts of Pattern 3
Sizes 3/4 - 5/6 years: 6-9 sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 1, Pattern 1, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 1, 12-18 sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 1, Pattern 1, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 1, 6-9 sts of Pattern 3.
When the work measures 23-24-27 (28-29-31) cm [9" - 9.5" - 10-5/8" (11" - 11-3/8" - 12.25")], and staying in pattern, work the next row as follows: Bind off 2 sts for armhole, 70-76-82 (92-102-108) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 70-76-82 (92-102-108) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Put the work aside.

Sleeves: Cast on 38-40-42 (44-44-48) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 3 cm [1.25"] rib. Change to larger double pointed needles and knit 2 rows garter st, then work all sts in Pattern 3. After the garter st rows, inc 1 st each side of marker 3-4-5 (7-13-14) times:
Sizes 0/3 + 12/18 mos.: every 8th row
Size 6/9 mos.: every 9th row
Size 2 years: every 6th row
Size 3/4 years: every 4th row
Size 5/6 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row
= 44-48-52 (58-70-76) sts. When the work measures 13-17-18.5 (20.5-23.5-27) cm [5-1/8" - 6.75" - 7.25" (8" - 9.25" - 10-5/8")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker. Set the work aside = 40-44-48 (54-66-72) sts.

Body: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as the body where 4 sts have been bound off each side = 220-240-260 (292-336-360) sts.
Put a marker in each transition between the sleeves and the body = 4 markers. Continue the pattern but knit the 1st st on each side of the markers in stockinette st (= 2 sts of stockinette st in each transition from body to sleeve). Knit 6-6-6 (2-2-2) rows before beginning raglan shaping.

Raglan shaping: Read the entire next section before knitting!
There are 8 decs per row (1 st on each side of the 2 stockinette sts).
Dec 1 st each side of the markers 10-11-12 (15-19-20) times every other row, then 1 st 5-6-7 (8-9-10) times every row. (A total of 120-136-152 (184-224-240) sts are decreased in the raglan shaping.)

Make decreases as follows:
Before the 2 stockinette sts:
Right side: K 2 tog.
Wrong side: Sl 2 sts from the needle, set them turned back onto the left needle (one at a time), P the 2 sts tog into the back of the sts.
After the 2 stockinette sts:
Right side: Sl 1, K 1, psso.
Wrong side: P 2 tog.

At the same time, bind off for the front neck (on all sizes) and for a split in the back (on the 3 smallest sizes) when 7-7-9 (9-9-9) decreases remain to be worked, as follows:
All sizes: Put the center front 20-22-24 (20-24-28) sts on a stitch holder and knit back and forth on the needles.
3 smallest sizes: On the same row, bind off the 6 center back sts for a split. You will have two separate pieces at this point. Work the center back edge even, and continue with the raglan and neck shaping.

Continue with raglan shaping. At the same time, bind off at each side of the front neck every other row:
3 smallest sizes: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time.
3 largest sizes: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 2 times.
(A total of 38-40-42 (38-42-46) sts are bound off or put on a stitch holder around the neck.)

When all shaping is completed, 62-64-66 (70-70-74) sts remain and the sweater's measurements up to the shoulder = approx. 33-35-39 (41-45-48) cm [13" - 13.75" - 15.25" (16-1/8" - 17.75" - 18-7/8")].

Assembly: 3 smallest sizes: Pick up approx. 10 sts along the left side of the split in the back on smaller needles. Purl 1 row and after this rib for 2.5 cm [1"]. Bind off all sts. Repeat along the right side of the split, but after 1 cm [3/8"] bind off for 1 buttonhole located approx. 1 cm [3/8"] from the top - 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row. Bind off all sts. Put the neck sts from the stitch holder on smaller needle and pick up 10-14 sts on each side of the neck shaping (also pick up over the placket in the back) = approx. 100-110 sts on the needles.
3 largest sizes: Pick up approx. 110-120 sts on smaller double pointed needles.
All sizes: P 1 row, then 6-6-7 (7-8-8) cm [2-3/8" - 2-3/8" - 2.75" (2.75" - 3-1/8" - 3-1/8")] rib, but on the 3 smallest sizes make buttonholes when the rib measures 2 cm [0.75"] and 4-4-5 cm [1.5" - 1.5" - 2"] over the buttonhole on the placket. Bind off and fold the neck edge double against the wrong side and sew. Sew together under the sleeve and sew on buttons.
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SOCKS

Sock's foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm
[4" - 4.25" - 4.75" (5.5" - 5-7/8")]

DROPS 2 mm [US 0] and 2.5 mm [US 1] needles, or sizes required to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 2.5 mm [US B] crochet hook, or size required to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 26 sts and 52 rows on larger needle in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from * - *.

Sock: Cast on 46-50-50 (54-54) sts on smaller needle and knit 6-7-7 (8-8) cm [2-3/8" - 2.75" - 2.75" (3-1/8" - 3-1/8")] rib back and forth on the needles (the edges are the center back). Knit 1 row stockinette st and change to larger needle and at the same time decrease 10-14-8 (12-8) sts evenly distributed across the row = 36-36-42 (42-46) sts. Knit Eyelet Border on the next row from the right side as follows (this is not necessary on larger sizes): *K 2 tog, yarn over *, repeat from * - *. Knit 1 row stockinette st. Put 12-12-14 (12-14) sts on a stitch holder on each side and knit 6-7-9 (10-10) cm [2-3/8" - 2.75" - 3.5" (4" - 4")] in garter st over the center 12-12-14 (18-18) sts.

Put the sts from the stitch holders back on the needles and pick up 16-18-23 (26-26) sts on each side of the center piece = 68-72-88 (94-98) sts on needles. Knit 3-4-4 (5-5) cm [1.25" - 1.5" - 1.5" (2" - 2")] garter st over all sts and at the same time, after 2 - 2.5 - 2.5 (3 - 3) cm [0.75" - 1" - 1" (1.25" - 1.25")] of garter st, dec 1 st at each side and knit 2 together on each side of the 2 center sts until 3-4-4 (5-5) cm [1.25" - 1.5" - 1.5" (2" - 2")] in all have been knit. Bind off and sew the seam under the foot and up along the ribbing with sts. Crochet a chain of approx. 30-35 cm and pull it through the eyelet border.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = put 2 sts on a cable needle behind the work, knit 2, knit 2 from the cable needle
symbols = put 2 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, purl 1, knit 2 from the cable needle
symbols = put 1 st on a cable needle behind the work, knit 2, purl 1 from the cable needle
symbols = put 1 st on a cable needle behind the work, knit 1, knit 1 from the cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Mary wrote:

Thank you so much for clarifying that and also for your quick response!

15.01.2024 - 13:56

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi, I have a question regarding the raglan shaping in the Little Pernille sweater. The dec 1 st each side of the markers (10) times every other row makes sense. The next decrease I need some help, 1 st (5) times every row WHERE? Am I still working in the round? Thanks, I’d appreciate some help ~Mary

15.01.2024 - 02:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Mary, the next decrease is still the same, but we dec in EVERY round (nou every OTHER) - this is the only difference. So you decrease 1 st on each side of every marker 5 times in every round. Happy knitting!

15.01.2024 - 06:02

country flag Mary wrote:

Hi, I have a question in the raglan shaping. I understand the first dec of 1 st each side of marker (10) times every other row, I do not know where the dec 1 st (5) times every row. Would you please clarify that section please? I love this baby sweater so far.

15.01.2024 - 02:14

country flag Marijke De Graaf wrote:

Ik maak de kleinste maat. Voor de raglan mouwen staat "Kant af op deze manier: voor 2 tricost: heeng nld brei 2 st samen. Terugg nld....." Maar het wordt toch in de rondte gebreid. Dus ik snap de heen - en teruggaande naalden niet.

03.10.2023 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marijke,

Als je in de rondte breit en dus steeds aan de goede kant zit, kun je inderdaad de instructies voor het minderen aan de goede kant aanhouden. Er wordt een halsopening midden achter gemaakt, waardoor je op een gegeven moment heen en weer moet breien.

05.10.2023 - 06:38

country flag Mette Wittmarch Balle wrote:

Hej Jeg har forsøgt at finde en mail jeg kunne skrive til. Jeg er ved at strikke en baby trøje Drops Little Pernille 6-2 og opdager der er en fejl i opskriften. Det kommer fordi jeg skal hjælpe en nabo, og jeg bliver nød til selv at strikke den for at finde ud af der er fejl. I vejledning til diagrammet er der byttet om på symbols = sæt 2 m på hj.p foran arb, 1 vrang, 2 ret fra hj.p symbols = sæt 1 m på hj.p bag arbejdet, 2 ret, 1 vrang fra hj.p.

24.08.2023 - 21:10

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Ik brei maatje 6/9, de mouwen, meten die 17cm met boord of na de boord gemeten? 17 met boord samen lijkt me kort. Dank u

09.07.2023 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Brigitte,

Dit is de totale lengte, dus vanaf het opzetten. Houd er rekening mee dat je de mouw eerst tot de oksel breit. Straks als je de panden en de mouwen samen op de naald zet, komt er nog een stuk bij.

12.07.2023 - 16:30

country flag Nancy wrote:

Ik begrijp ook niet goed wat ik hier moet doen. Is het waarschijnlijk verkeerd vertaald?\r\n\r\nKant af op deze manier: voor de 2 tricotst: heeng nld: brei 2 st r samen. Terugg nld: haal de 2 st los af de nld, zet deze gedraaid terug op de linker nld (één en één), brei deze 2 st gedraaid av samen.\r\nNa de 2 tricotst: heeng nld: haal de st los af de nld, brei 1 st r en haal de afgeh st daarover.

08.01.2023 - 10:07

country flag Nancy wrote:

Wordt het truitje in de rondte gebreid of heen en weer? Wordt de magic loop voor de mouwen gebruikt?

08.01.2023 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nancy,

Deze trui wordt in de rondte gebreid. Als je breidraad op een bepaald moment te lang is kun je inderdaad de magic loop techniek gebruiken.

08.01.2023 - 10:08

country flag Jessika Heikkilä wrote:

Hei! Aion tehdä koon 110/116 paidan ja sen leveys mietityttää. Ohjeessa ilmoitettu vartalonympärykseksi 86cm. Silmukkamääriä kun tutkailen niin käsittäisin, että resori on tuon levyinen ja vartalo-osa vieläkin leveämpi. Muissa saman koon paitojen ohjeissa vartalonympärys on n.70cm, joten onko tämä malli vain ihan tosi leveä vai olenko ymmärtänyt jotakin väärin? -Jessika

04.11.2021 - 12:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, tämä malli on melko väljä. Palmikoiden vuoksi työstä tulee kuitenkin hieman kapeampi kuin jos nelottaisiin esim. sileää neuletta, ja työ muotoutuu vartalon mukaan.

04.11.2021 - 17:11

country flag Helen Richardson wrote:

I found making the back placket for 12/18 mos. awkward and messy with too many ends to weave in. Leaving a spilt in the middle of the raglan on one shoulder is easier. Crochet loops for the buttons. This also means there are no buttons irritating the back of the neck for a child in a car seat or napping.

15.10.2021 - 19:58