DROPS Muskat Soft
DROPS Muskat Soft
100% Cotton
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Domino Dancing

DROPS jacket in domino diamonds and stocking st in “Muskat Soft”. Size S – XXXL

DROPS 107-1
Size: S – M – L – XL/XXL -XXXL

Materials: DROPS Muskat Soft, from Garnstudio
Colour no 06, blue/purple: 700-800-900-1000-1100 g

DROPS pointed needles and circular needle (80 cm) size 4 mm - or size needed to obtain 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS buffalo horn buttons, no 535: 3-3-3-4-4 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat Soft
DROPS Muskat Soft
100% Cotton
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows

Knitting tip-1: To avoid thread ends you may work each diamond in the first line of diamonds with a separate ball and let this follow the piece for the following lines instead of cutting the thread.

Knitting tip-2: Always pick up sts from RS.
Increasing tip: Inc inside 1 front band st towards mid front by making 1 yo. Work yo into back of st on return row to avoid a hole. Work inc sts in garter st.

Half domino diamond (vertical): Work 6 front band sts in garter st throughout.
Row 1 (= WS): K
Row 2 (= RS): K row until 8 sts (including front band sts) left on row, K2 tog, work 6 front band sts. Mirror this on the other side of jacket, i.e. dec at beg of row. Repeat row 1 and 2, i.e. dec 1 st towards front band on every other row until 1 st + 6 front band sts left on row. Cut the thread and put 6 front band sts on a thread.

Whole domino diamond : Insert a Marking Thread (MT) in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K
Row 2 (= RS): K row until 1 st before MT, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, K to the end of row. Repeat row 1 and 2, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of diamond on every other row until 1 st left on row. Cut the thread and pull through st.

Half domino diamond (horizontal): Like whole diamond, but in addition to dec in the middle of diamond, put the last st on a thread at the end of every row until 4-3-4-4-4 sts left on row. Continue as follows:
Size S + L + XL/XXL + XXL/XXXL:
4 sts left on row.
Work next row (= RS) as follows: slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso. Put the last st on row on thread at side (= 6-7-8-9 sts on thread each side). Cut the thread and pull through remaining st on needle.
Size M:
3 sts left on row (6 sts on thread each side).
K 1 row on 3 sts from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso. Cut the thread and pull through remaining st on needle.

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off third st from mid front, cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 23, 31 and 39 cm.
Size M: 26, 34 and 42 cm.
Size L: 29, 37 and 45 cm.
Size XL/XXL: 24, 32, 40 and 48 cm.
Size XXL/XXXL: 30, 38, 46 and 54 cm.

Jacket: Beg by casting on sts for the entire width of the piece. The diamonds are now worked 1 by 1, back and forth on circular needle in garter st.
Line 1 with domino diamonds: Cast on 383-403-423-443-483 sts (includes 6 front band sts each side) on circular needle size 4mm. K 1 row from WS and work next row as follows from RS: 6 garter sts (= front band), K2 tog, *K 34-36-38-40-44 sts, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso”, repeat from *-*a total of 9 times and finish with K 34-36-38-40-44 sts, K2 tog, 6 garter sts (= front band) = 363-383-403-423-463 sts. Work front bands in garter st throughout. Now work 1 half vertical domino diamond – see above – on the first 24-25-26-27-29 sts (includes 6 front band sts). Leave remaining sts on needle. See Knitting tip-1. Work 1 whole domino diamond on the next 35-37-39-41-45 sts. When the whole domino diamond is complete work on the next 35-37-39-41-45 sts in the same way, and continue like this until 24-25-26-27-29 sts left on row (= 9 ½ domino diamonds on row). Now work 1 half vertical domino diamond + front band. When the half diamond is complete and 6 sts have been put on thread there are 9 whole and 2 half domino diamonds on Line 1.

Line 2 with domino diamonds: Pick up 17-18-19-20-22 sts along the side of the half diamond – see Knitting tip-2! Now pick up 1 st between the half diamond and the next diamond from Line 1 and pick up 17-18-19-20-22 sts along the side of the next diamond = 35-37-39-41-45 sts on row. Work whole domino diamond as before. When the diamond is complete pick up 35-37-39-41-45 sts between 2 diamonds from Line 1 and continue like this until there are 10 whole domino diamonds on Line 2.

Line 3 with domino diamonds:
Pick up 18-19-20-21-23 sts along the side of the last diamond from row 2 – remember Knitting tip-2 - and work the 6 front band sts left on row = 24-25-26-27-29 sts. K next row from WS, at the same time dec 3 sts evenly (do not dec on front band sts) = 21-22-23-24-26 sts. Now work 1 half vertical domino diamond – beg on row 2, + 6 front band sts. When the half diamond is complete and 6 front band sts have been put on thread pick up 17-18-19-20-22 sts along the side of each of the following 2 diamonds from Line 2 and pick up 1 st between the diamonds = 35-37-39-41-45 sts on row. K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 6 sts evenly = 29-31-33-35-39 sts. Now work 1 whole domino diamond – beg on row 2. When diamond is complete pick up 35-37-39-41-45 sts between the next 2 diamonds from Line 2. NB! For all diamonds beg by K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 6 sts evenly = 29-31-33-35-39 sts. Work 1 whole domino diamond – beg on row 2 and continue like this until there are 9 ½ diamonds on Line 3. Now pick up 18-19-20-21-23 sts along the side of the last diamond. K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 3 sts evenly = 15-16-17-18-20 sts + 6 front band sts left on row = 21-22-23-24-26 sts. Work front band and 1 half vertical domino diamond – beg on row 2. When the half diamond is complete and 6 front band sts put on thread there are 9 whole diamonds and 2 half diamonds on Line 3.

Line 4 with domino diamonds: Pick up 14-15-16-17-19 sts along the side of the half diamond and pick up 1 st between the half diamond and the next diamond from Line 3. Pick up 14-15-16-17-19 sts along the side of the next diamond = 29-31-33-35-39 sts on row. K 1 row from WS. Work whole domino diamond as before. When the diamond is complete pick up 29-31-33-35-39 sts between 2 diamonds from Line 3 and continue like this until there are 10 whole domino diamonds on Line 4.

Line 5 with domino diamonds: NB! Remember buttonholes on right front band!
Pick up 15-16-17-18-20 sts along the side of the last diamond from Line 4 – remember Knitting tip-2 - and work the 6 front band sts left on row = 21-22-23-24-26 sts. Work 1 half vertical domino diamond + front band. When the half diamond is completed and the 6 front band sts put on thread pick up 14-15-16-17-19 sts along the sides of each of the next 2 diamonds from Line 4 + 1 st between the diamonds = 29-31-33-35-39 sts on row. Work 1 whole domino diamond as before. When diamond is completed pick up 29-31-33-35-39 sts between 2 diamonds from Line 4, and continue like this until there are 9 ½ diamonds on Line 5. Now pick up 15-16-17-18-20 sts along the side of the last diamond. K 1 row from WS and work front band sts back on needle = 21-22-23-24-26 sts. Work front band + 1 half vertical domino diamond. When the half diamond is completed and the 6 front band sts put on thread there are 9 whole and 2 half diamonds on Line 5.

Line 6 with domino diamonds: Work like Line 4.

Line 7 with domino diamonds: Pick up 15-16-17-18-20 sts along the side of the last diamond from Line 6 and work the 6 front band sts left on row = 21-22-23-24-26 sts. K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 2-2-2-1-1 sts evenly (do not dec on front band sts) = 19-20-21-23-25 sts. Now work 1 half vertical domino diamond, beg on row 2. When the half diamond is complete pick up 29-31-33-35-39 sts between 2 diamonds from Line 6. NB! For all diamonds beg by K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 4-4-4-2-2 sts evenly = 25-27-29-33-37 sts. + front band. Now work 1 whole domino diamond, beg on row 2. Continue like this until there are 9 ½ diamonds on Line 7. Now pick up 15-16-17-18-20 sts along the side of the last diamond. K 1 row from WS, at the same time dec 2-2-2-1-1 sts evenly = 13-14-15-17-19 sts and work front band sts back on needle = 19-20-21-23-25 sts. Work front band + 1 half vertical domino diamond. When the half diamond is completed and the 6 front band sts put on thread there are 9 whole and 2 half diamonds on Line 7.

Line 8, the last, with domino diamonds:
Pick up 12-13-14-16-18 sts along the side of the half diamond and pick up 1 st between the half diamond and the next diamond from Line 7. Pick up 12-13-14-16-18 sts along the side of the next diamond = 25-27-29-33-37 sts on row. Work 1 horizontal half domino diamond – see above. When the diamond is complete pick up 25-27-29-33-37 sts between 2 diamonds from Line 7 and continue like this until there are 10 horizontal half domino diamonds on Line 8.

Upper body piece: Beg from WS inside the 6 front band sts on right front piece and K 1 row from WS on the 6 front band sts. Continue as follows from RS: 6 front band sts, pick up 1 st between front band and sts on thread, *work the 6-6-7-8-9 sts from thread back on needle, pick up 3 sts between threads, work sts from thread back on needle, pick up 1 st between diamonds*, repeat from *-* and finish with working the other 6 front band sts back on needle = 173-173-193-213-233 sts. K 1 row from WS. K 1 row from RS, at the same time inc 7-27-23-31-31 sts evenly = 180-200-216-244-264 sts. Work 5 rows garter st. Piece now measures approx 41-43-47-50-55 cm. Insert a Marking Thread (MT) 48-53-57-64-69 sts in from each side (to mark the sides). Back piece = 84-94-102-116-126 sts. Continue in stocking st with front bands in garter st as before.
Remember the knitting tension!
At the same time inc for collar towards mid front – see Increasing tip: 1 st on every 2 cm a total of 12-13-13-14-14 times. For every inc also incorporate 1 st from body piece to collar, i.e 1 additional garter st and 1 less stocking st.
At the same time when piece measures approx 8-7-6-6-6 cm from MT cast off 3 sts on each side of both MT for armhole and complete back and front pieces separately.

Back piece: = 78-88-96-110120 sts. Continue in stocking st, at the same time dec to shape the armhole each side on every other row: 2 sts 0-1-3-5-7 times and 1 st 0-2-1-2-2 times = 78-80-82-86-88 sts. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 25-25-25-26-27 cm from MT and now cast off the middle 22-24-24-26-26 sts for neck. Dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 27-27-28-29-30 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off loosely when piece measures 27-27-27-28-29 cm from MT (piece measures approx 68-70-74-78-84 cm from bottom point).

Left front piece: Continue in stocking st and dec to shape the armhole as described for back piece and continue inc for collar. When all dec and inc are complete there are 57-59-60-63-64 sts on row – 30-32-32-34-34 sts on collar and 27-27-28-29-30 sts on shoulder. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 27-27-27-28-29 cm from MT (piece measures approx 68-70-74-78-84 cm from bottom point) and now cast off the 27-27-28-29-30 sts on shoulder. Continue on the 30-32-32-34-34 collar sts with shortened rows as follows: *work 2 rows garter st on all sts, work 2 rows garter st on the outermost 17-18-18-19-19 sts towards mid front*, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx 5.5-6-6-6.5-6.5 cm (measured on the shorter side) from shoulder. Cast off.

Right front piece: Work like left front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 50-52-54-56-58 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm and work 6 rows garter st. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 8-5-5-5-8 cm inc 1 st each side on every 4-3.5-3-2.5-2 cm a total of 10-12-14-16-18 times = 70-76-82-88-94 sts. When piece measures 49-48-48-48-47 cm (less on the larger sizes because of larger sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off 4 sts each side and dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 2 sts 3-4-4-4-5 times, 1 st 1-1-1-3-3 times, then dec 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-55-56-57-57 cm. Dec 4 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 56-56-57-58-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew tog collar mid back and sew collar to neckline. Sew sleeve seam and set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (148)

country flag Helena Karlström wrote:

Jag ser att garnet till denna kofta inte finns längre (muskat soft). Vad kan jag byta till? Vill gärna ha garn med färgskiftningar som på bilden.

03.07.2023 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helena, vi har desværre ikke noget garn med den farveskiftning. DROPS Muskat kan bruges hvis du vil lave den ensfarvet, eller selv vil sætte farverne sammen :)

04.07.2023 - 07:57

country flag Raffaella wrote:

Buon giorno, non riesco a capire quante maglie devo montare per fare il diamante intero e quante il mezzo. Nelle spiegazioni dice " lavorare 6m per il bordo......... .......2° ferro 2(=dirittodel lavoro):lavorare il f.fino a quando rimangono 8m............. ma non mi dice quante maglie avviare! Manca qualcosa o sono io che non interpreto bene? Grazie per l'attenzione!

28.03.2022 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Raffaella, questa parte delle spiegazioni è relativa alle tecniche utilizzate in tutto il modello. Per sapere come procedere nella lavorazione del cardigan e dei diamanti domino deve iniziare dal paragrafo "cardigan". Buon lavoro!

29.03.2022 - 22:46

country flag Briyitt Barco wrote:

Es imposible entender el gráfico.

20.07.2020 - 22:55

country flag Giuditta wrote:

Buongiorno desidero fare il vostro modello 107-1 come da modello ma non riesco a trovare i colori . inoltre desidero fare il secondo modello colore verde-lilla - blu . potete per cortesia inviatemi i colori corrispondenti i due varianti . e il costo grazie .

13.05.2019 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Giuditta. Il modello è lavorato con un cotone variegato, fuori produzione e di cui non esiste un corrispondente. Le suggeriamo di chiedere consiglio al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia per valutare le alternative possibili e i relativi costi. Buon lavoro!

14.05.2019 - 08:20

country flag Leonor Galvão wrote:

Boa tarde, Adorava fazer este modelo com este tipo de riscas, mas o fio já foi descontinuado. Será que se usar o fio Delight obtenho um efeito semelhante?

14.08.2018 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, O fio Nepal continua a fazer parte da gama DROPS e até tem novas cores. Não aconselhamos o fio Delight, em substituição, porque tem uma espessura muito diferente (muito mais fino do que o fio Nepal). Bons tricôs!

16.08.2018 - 11:19

country flag Lisbeth Andreasen wrote:

Jeg ville gerne strikke denne jakke i den farve som er på billedet, men eftersom det er udgået hvad skal jeg så strikke den i. Jeres garnalternativ som er cotton light findes jo ikke i multicolor

14.01.2017 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth. Vi kan desvaerre ikke hjaelpe dig med et alternativ i multi colour paa nuvaerende tidspunkt.

16.01.2017 - 12:41

country flag ODILE wrote:

J'commande la laine pour faire le modele 107 , mais je n'y arrive pas , je ne commprends pas comment faire les "dominos" je veux bien de l'aide merci

30.09.2015 - 17:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Odile, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment réaliser un domino, vous pouvez également consulter ce sujet sur le forum DROPS où vous verrez différentes étapes en photo. Bon tricot!

01.10.2015 - 09:02

country flag Kim P wrote:

I just finished the first vertical half diamond. When I place the 6 stitches on the needle, what do I do with the +1? I tried starting the whole domino diamond, but it resulted in a folded vertical half diamond.

24.05.2015 - 05:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kim, put the 6 sts on a st holder and cut the yarn, pull it through the last st. Happy knitting!

26.05.2015 - 09:58

country flag Gabi wrote:

Hallo Drops, bekomme ich noch irgendwo diese Farbe, blaulila, her? Gibt es noch Restposten? Gruß Gabi

14.04.2015 - 21:36

DROPS Design answered:

Muskat Soft ist leider schon länger aus dem Programm genommen und nicht mehr erhältlich. Vielleicht denken Sie über diese Alternative nach: Sie stricken die Jacke in Muskat in verschiedenen Farben (Blau-, Violett- und Rosatöne), vielleicht pro Viereck eine Farbe und die Passe und Ärmel gestreift oder einfarbig.

15.04.2015 - 10:05

country flag Moine Lacaille wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas le début des explications de la partie supérieure du gilet : "Commencer sur l'envers à 6 m de la bordure devant droit, tricoter 1 rg endroit sur l'envers sur les 6 m de bordure devant". Faut-il ou non tricoter les 6 m bordure ?? Ce n'est pas clair pour moi, pourriez-vous préciser ? Merci de votre réponse.

05.04.2015 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lacaille, on tricote d'abord 1 rang endroit sur l'envers sur les 6 m de la bordure devant, puis on tourne et au rang suivant sur l'endroit, on tricote les 6 m de bordure devant puis on relève/reprend les mailles comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

07.04.2015 - 09:19