DROPS 104-17
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements at chest: 31½”-34 5/8”-37 ¾”-41 ¾”-46½”-51”
Full length: 11”-11 3/8”-11 ¾”-12 ¼”-12½”-13”

Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
color no 9015, middle gray:
750-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g

DROPS needles and double pointed needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting gauge. Note: Ensure not to knit too loosely!

DROPS double pointed needles size 4 mm [US 6] - for Rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knit back and front pieces in 3 parts. 1 back piece (A) + 2 edge pieces (B) knit from mid back on back and ends neck mid back. Sew these tog to circle and then sew back piece - see Figure1. Sew sleeves on jacket in the end.

Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]

Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagrams are seen from RS. English Translations for wording in diagrams are given at the bottom of pattern and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in diagram.

Measuring tip: All length measurements on edge piece are done along shortest side.

Knitting tip: Slip 1st sts as if to knit loosely when turning on middle of row. Tighten thread and continue knitting like before. This is done to avoid holes in the turn.

Back piece: Remember knitting gauge! Knit back piece in stockinette sts, but assemble with WS out. Cast on 38-44-52-60-70-80 sts (incl 1 edge sts on each side) on needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Silke-Alpaca. Knit stockinette sts, at the same time cast on 2 new sts on each side on every other row 8 times in total = 70-76-84-92-102-112 sts. When piece measures 8 cm [3 1/8’’] bind off for armhole on each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-1 times, 2 sts 0-0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 sts 2-3-3-3-4-5 times = 66-70-74-76-80-84 sts. When piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm [10 ¼”-10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”-11 ¾”-12 ¼”] bind off middle 30-30-32-32-34-34 sts for neckline. Continuing bind off 1 st on next row at neckline = 17-19-20-21-22-24 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm [11”-11 3/8”-11 ¾”-12 ¼”-12 ½”-13”].

Right front edge: Read entire section before knitting commences! Cast on edge is marked with E on measurement diagram. Cast on 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts (includes 1 edge sts) on needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Silke-Alpaca. Then knit as follows (1st row = RS): M.1 (= 7 sts), K3, P6-7-8-9-10-11, K3, M.2 (= 24 sts), K3, P9, K3, P6-7-8-9-10-11, finish with 3 K and 1 edge sts. When piece measures 10 cm [4’’] inc 1 st on uppermost P part on right side on every 0-8-10-2-1.5-1 cm [0”-3 1/8”-4”-3/4”-½”-3/8”] 0-2-2-7-10-14 times in total = 68-72-74-81-86-92 sts. When piece measures 18-20-22-24-27-30 cm [7”-8”-8 ¾”-9½”-10 5/8”-11 ¾”] knit shortened rows as follows: * 2 rows over first 7 sts – read Knitting tip, 2 rows over first 19-22-23-29-33-38 sts, 2 rows over first 43-46-47-53-57-62 sts, 2 rows over first 58-61-62-68-72-77 sts, 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 31-34-39-43-51-57 cm [12 ¼”-13 3/8”-15 ¼”-17”-20”-22½”] – read Measuring tip. Continue over all sts. At the same time dec 1 sts on first P part on right side on every 0-8-10-2-1.5-1 cm [0”-3 1/8”-4”-3/4”-½”-3/8”] 0-2-2-7-10-14 times in total = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts. When piece measures 47-50-55-59-67-73 cm [18½”-19 ¾”-21 5/8”-23 ¼”-26 3/8”-28 ¾”] bind off outermost 17-19-20-21-22-24 sts on left side for shoulder = 51-51-52-53-54-54 sts left for neck edge. Measure piece from here: Knit shortened rows as follows: * 2 rows over first 7 sts, 2 rows over first 19-20-21-22-23-24 sts, 2 rows over first 43-44-45-46-47-48 sts, 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-*. Bind off when piece measures 9.5-9.5-10-10-10.5-10.5 cm [3 ¾”-3 ¾”-4”-4”-4 ¼”-4 ¼”] (measured at shortest).

Left edge piece: Cast on and knit like right but mirrored – what is done on right side on right edge piece is done on left side on left edge piece and vice versa.

Sleeve: Knit piece in the round on needle. Knit sleeve in stockinette sts, but turn when completed so WS is turned out. Cast on 45-45-54-54-63-63 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm [US 6] with Silke-Alpaca. Knit Rib P3, K6. When piece measures 15 cm [6’’] continue in stockinette sts and on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] – at the same time dec evenly to 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts. When piece measures 16 cm [6 1/4’’] inc 2 sts mid under sleeve on every 3-2.5-2.5-2-2-1.5 cm [1 1/8”-7/8”-7/8”-3/4”-3/4”-½”] 11-12-12-14-15-16 times in total = 62-66-68-74-78-82 sts. When piece measures 50-49-49-48-48-46 cm [19 ¾”-19 ¼”-19 ¼”-19”-19”-18”] bind off 8 sts mid under and complete piece knitting back and forth on needle. Then bind off for sleeve top on each side on every other row: 3 sts 2-2-2-2-2-3 times and 2 sts 1-1-1-2-3-4 times, then bind off 3 sts on each side until piece measures 54-54-54-54-55-55 cm [21 ¼”-21 ¼”-21 ¼”-21 ¼”-21 5/8”-21 5/8”], bind off 3 sts 1 time on each side and then bind off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 55-55-55-55-56-56 cm [21 5/8”- 21 5/8”- 21 5/8”- 21 5/8”-22”-22”].

Assembly: – See measurement diagram Sew with mattress sts and ensure they are not tight. Sew edge pieces tog at bottom edge (E to E) and at neck (D to D). Sew edge piece onto back piece by sewing shoulder seams (C) and edge piece to bottom and top edges of back piece (G) and (F). Sew in sleeves.


= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= Cable: Slip 3 sts onto cable needle to front
of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle.
= 1 sts onto cable needle to back of piece, K3, P1 from
cable needle
= 3 sts onto cable needle to front of piece, P1, K3 from
cable needle
= back piece
= edge piece
= shoulder
= neck edge mid back
= mid back, bottom edge
= back
= neck opening

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K on RS, P on WS
symbols = P on RS, K on WS
symbols = Cable: Slip 3 sts onto cable needle to front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = Slip 1 st onto cable needle to back of piece, K 3, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = Slip 3 sts onto cable needle to front of piece, P 1, K 3 from cable
symbols = back piece
symbols = edge piece
symbols = shoulder
symbols = neck edge mid back
symbols = mid back, bottom edge
symbols = back
symbols = neck opening
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (41)

country flag Tina wrote:

Leider ist die Beschreibung zu Muster 2 (Rautenmuster) noch immer fehlerhaft. Ich war im Wollgeschäft meines Vertrauens, wo sich die Inhaberin sehr viel Zeit für mich und das Nachstricken der Anleitung nahm und ebenfall zum Ergebnis kam, dass ein gravierender Fehler in der Anleitung zum Rautenmuster sein müsse.

29.05.2017 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tina, können Sie uns bitte darüber mehr sagen, damit es noch geprüft wird. Danke im voraus!

30.05.2017 - 08:26

country flag Lemien wrote:

Bonsoir, Le diagramme M2 ne me donne pas le même motif que sur la photo...? ai-je fait une erreur?

20.11.2015 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lemien, dans le diagramme 1 case = 1 m x 1 rang, commencez à lire le diagramme en bas à droite vers la gauche sur l'endroit et de gauche à droite sur l'envers. Vous devez avoir: des m envers, la torsade et les mailles endroit décalées vers l'extérieur puis vers l'intérieur (et ensuite du point de riz au milieu du losange) et des m env. Voir aussi ici. Bon tricot!

23.11.2015 - 09:33

country flag Nadine wrote:

Je pense que la méthode la plus adaptée à ce modèle pour les rangs raccourcis est la méthode des mailles enveloppées. Car dans les vidéos en relation avec ce modèle on ne trouve que la méthode de base qui ne donne pas un joli rendu.

18.01.2014 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadine, les vidéos des rangs raccourcis avec mailles enveloppées ont été rajoutées pour ce modèle, merci. Bon tricot!

20.01.2014 - 10:00

country flag Gudrun wrote:

Kann es sein, dass in der Anleitung ein kleiner Fehler ist. Müsste es bei den Erklärungen zum Diagramm bei dem 3. Zopf nicht heißen 3 (!!!) Maschen auf die Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 1 links und 3 rechts von der Hilfsnadel? In der Anleitung steht 1 Masche auf die Hilfnadel usw. Soll sich zwischen dem Zopf ein einfaches Perlmutter ergeben?

15.04.2012 - 16:24

DROPS Design answered:

Doch das ist falsch. Ich ändere das gleich.

16.04.2012 - 09:34

country flag Drops Design wrote:

Hvis du strikker den 4.størrelse tager du 1 m ud i første vrparti på hver 2.cm ialt 7 gange. God fornøjelse!

27.09.2011 - 09:35

country flag Majken wrote:

Hvad menes der med følgende på højre kantstk: Når arb måler 10 cm tages der 1 m ud i det første vrparti i højre side på hver 0.-8.-10.-2.-1½.-1.cm totalt 0-2-2-7-10-14 gange = 68-72-74-81-86-92 m. Skal jeg tage en maske ud for hver 2. cm i første vrangstykke eller en maske på hver 2. pind i første vrangstykke?

27.09.2011 - 09:33

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Hoi Janine. De boordsteek maak je met M.1. Je breit de panden heen en weer met verkorte toeren en langs de voorkant brei je de M.1 (3 nld av, 3 nld r). Dan krijg je de boordst. Succes en veel plezier mee. Gr. Tine

29.11.2010 - 15:46

country flag Janine wrote:

Ik heb het patroon 3 keer door gelezen maar kan bij de afwerking niet de boordsteek terug vinden. Als ik op het plaatje kijk zit er rondom het vest toch echt een boordsteek.

29.11.2010 - 15:41

country flag Erika Hernández wrote:

Ayuda por favor, quiero saber si estoy tejiendo bien las vultas cortas, tejo 7 puntos le doy la vuelta al tejido y continuo otra vez tengo el tejido por el derecho, tejo sobre los primero 29 y giro el tejido y termino esa vuelta, es que noto que del lado izquierdo está quedando forzado el tejido, pues tal como estoy tejiendo, los últimos puntos solo los tejo una vez en todo el ciclo de las vueltas cortas. gracias.

21.05.2010 - 18:07

Erika wrote:

Hola, el modelo es fantástico pero tengo proboemas con la orilla, no sé cómo tejerla, en el patron no encuentro esas indicaciones . gracias

15.05.2010 - 22:44