DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

DROPS 103-33

The set consist of: DROPS jacket with cape and pattern in ”Silke Alpaca” or "Nepal". Size S – XXXL. DROPS hat and gloves with pattern in ”Silke Alpaca” or "Nepal".

DROPS 103-33
JACKET:
Size: S – M/L – XL/XXL – XXXL

Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
800-900-1050-1150 g, clr.no. 0100, off white
200-200-200-250 g, clr. no. 4010, pearl grey

Or use:
DROPS Nepal from Garnstudio
650-750-850-950 g colour no 0100 off white
200-200-200-200 g colour no 4311 grey/purple

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needles size 4.5 mm (80 cm)– or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
DROPS double pointed and circular needles size 4 mm (80 cm) – for Rib and garter sts.
DROPS Metal silver button no 529: 5-6-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

Knitting Tension: 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking sts on needle size 4.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
Measurement tip: Because of the weight of the garment all measures should be taking while the garment is hanging, otherwise the it may prove to be to long
Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.
Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams are shown from the RS.
Knit all of the pattern in stocking sts. The ”start” arrow applies only for the sleeves.
Rib: * K2, P3 *, repeat from *-*
Button hole: Cast off for button holes at the right front band.
1 button hole = cast off the 4th st from mid front. On the returning row cast on 1 new sts at the same place.
Cast off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size S: 5-13-21-30-39 cm
Size M/L: 5-12-19-26-33-40 cm
Size XL/XXL: 5-12-19-26-34-41cm
Size XXXL: 5-12-19-26-34-41 cm
Increasing tips(applies for the collar):
Inc. inside the outer most edge st mid front. Make a yo on the next row twist and K the yo – i.e. knit into back part of st instead of the front part to avoid a hole.



Back and front pieces: Remember the knitting tension! Read Measurement tips! Knit back and forth beg. mid front on circular needles. Cast on 187-201-235-269 sts (incl of 6 front band sts each side) on circular needles size 4 mm with off white. Insert 2 MT ( marking threads) – 1 after 52-55-63-72 sts and 1 after 135-146-172-197 sts (= 83-91-109-125 sts in between the MT (= back piece). Knit in garter sts until the piece measures 4 cm – see explanation above. Change to needle size 4.5 mm and continue in stocking sts, with 6 front band sts each side knitted in garter sts through out – remember to cast off for button holes at the right front band – see explanation above. When the piece measures 10 cm dec. 1 st each side of both the MT (=4 st each round) on every 4½-4½-5-5½ cm a total of 4 times = 171-185-219-253 sts.
Please read all of the next section before knitting it!
When the piece measures 25-27-28-30 cm (all dec. should be completed) knit as follows – from the RS.
Size S: 6 garter sts, K3, M.1(= 31 sts), K3, M.2 (= 7 sts), K3, M.1, K3, M.1, K3, M.2, K3, M.1, K3, 6 garter sts.
Size M/L - XL/XXL - XXXL: 6 garter sts, * K3, M.1(= 31 sts) *, repeat from *-* a total of 5-6-7 times, finish with K3 and 6 garter sts.
Knit M.1/M.2 1 time verticaly – continue with off white as before. When the piece measures 41-42-43-44 cm knit as follows: 6 garter sts (front band) turn, knit back. Knit 1 row over all sts. Knit 6 garter sts (front band other side), turn and knit back. Then continue to knit over all sts – at the same time inc. 1 st each side on every 3rd row inside the outermost front band st a total of 13-15-17-19 times – read Increasing tips – knit new sts in garter sts. At the same time when the piece measures 41-43-44-46 cm cast off 3-3-4-4 sts each side on each MT for the arm holes, finish each part separately.

Back piece: (= 69-77-93-109 sts). Cast off for arm holes on every other row: 3 sts 0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-2-3-5 times and 1 sts 1-1-2-4 times = 63-67-71-75 sts. Knit in stocking sts over all sts. When the piece measures 60-63-66-69 cm cast off the mid 21-23-23-25 sts for the neck. On the next row cast off 1 st towards the neck = 20-21-23-24 sts left for each shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece 62-65-68-71 cm.

Front piece: Cast off for arm holes as done for the back piece. Continue the inc. for the collar. At the same time when the piece measures 48-51-54-55 cm knit 1 more garter st towards the side on every other row a total of 16-16-15- 17 times (i.e the total number of sts remains the same but the number of garter sts increases) After all inc. for the collar are completed = 55-58-61-66 sts. When the piece measures 62-65-68-71 cm cast off the outer most 20-21-23-24 sts for shoulder = 35-37-38-42 sts left for the collar. Continue with garter sts over the collar sts as follows: * 2 rows of garter sts over all sts, 2 rows of garter sts over the outermost 20 sts mid front* repeat from *-* until the piece approx. 7-7½-7½ -8 cm at the shortest side. Cast off.

Sleeve: Knit round on double pointed needles. Cast on 45-50-50-55 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with off white. K 1 round. Continue with Rib - see explanation above. When the piece measures 6 cm dec. evenly distributed to 42-44-44-46 sts and continue in stocking sts on needles size 4.5 mm. At the same time when the piece measures 8 cm inc. 2 sts mid underneath the sleeve on every 2-2-1½-1 cm a total of 11-12-16-17 times = 64-68-76-80 sts. When the piece measures 33-33-32-28 cm knit as follows:
Size S - M/L: M.1, K 1-3 in off white, M.1, K1-3 in off white, – make sure 1 repeat of M.1 will be at the middle of the sleeve – see ”start” arrow in diagram!
Size XL/XXL - XXXL: M.1, K 0-1 in off white, M.2, K 0-1 in off white, M.1, K 0-1 in off white, M.2, K 0-1 in off white – make sure 1 repeat of M.1 will be at the middle of the sleeve – see ”start” arrow in diagram! Knit M.1/M.2 for 1 repeat verticaly, then finish with off white and stocking sts. When the piece measures 48-48-48-45 cm cast off 6 sts mid underneath the sleeves. Continue to knit back and forth. At the same time cast off for the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2-3-4-7 times. Continue to cast off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 56-57-58-58 cm, then cast off 3 sts each side 1 times. Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures 57-58-59-59 cm.

Pockets: Cast on 24-26-30-32 sts on needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 4 rows of garter sts. Continue in stocking sts with 4 garter sts each side. When the piece measures 16-16-18-18 cm knit 4 rows of garter sts. Cast off.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the collar tog. mid back with grafting sts and sew the collar to the neckline at the nape of the neck. Sew on 1 pocket at the middle of each front piece, approx. 7 cm from the bottom edge.



HAT
Size: One-size
Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
100 g, clr. no. 0100, off white
50 g, clr. no. 4010, pearl grey

Or use:
DROPS Nepal from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 0100 off white
50 g colour no 4311 grey/purple

DROPS double pointed needles size 4mm – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.


Knitting tension: 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking sts = 10 x 10
Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.3. The diagram are shown from the RS. All of the pattern is knitted in stocking sts. English translations for the wording in the diagram are given at the bottom of this pattern, and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in the diagram.
Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*


Hat: Remember the knitting tension! Knit round on double pointed needles. Cast on 92 sts on double pointed needles size 4mm with off white. K 1 row and continue with Rib – see explanation above. When the piece measures 4 cm inc. 1 st = 93 sts Knit according to M.3 for 1 vertical repeat and then K 1 round with off white. Continue according to M.1. When 1 vertical repeat of M.1 is completed, knit in stocking sts until the piece measures 26 cm, then knit 2 rounds where you knit sts tog. 2 by 2 = 23 sts left. Pull 1 thread through remaining sts 2 times, pull and sew tight.



GLOVES
Size: S/M – L/XL
Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
100-150 g, clr. no. 4010, pearl grey.
50 g, for both sizes clr. no. 0100, off white

Or use:
DROPS Nepal from Garnstudio
100-150 g colour no 0100 off white
50 g colour no 4311 grey/purple



DROPS double pointed needles size 4 mm - or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
Knitting tension: 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm
Pattern: See diagrams M.4 and M.5.The diagram are shown from the RS. All of the pattern is knitted in stocking sts.
Increasing tips (applies for the gusset for the thumb):
Inc. as follows: Make a yo, on the next row twist and K the yo ( i.e. knit into back part of stitch instead of the front part) This is done to avoid a hole. Knit new sts in stocking sts..


Right glove: Remember the knitting tension! Knit round on double pointed needles. Cast on 36-42 sts on double pointed needles size 4mm with pearl grey. K 1 round. Continue inh Rib K3/P3. When the piece measures 4-5 cm K 1 round at the same time inc. evenly distributed to 38-46 sts. Insert 1 MT (marking thread) in the 20th – 24th st. Continue as follows: K 0-3 in pearl grey, M.4 over the first 17 sts, K 3-6 in pearl grey, M.5 over the next 18 sts, K 0-2 in pearl grey. At the same time when the piece measures 8-9 cm inc. 1 st each side of the st with the MT on every 3 round a total of 4-5 times. = 9-11 sts for the gusset of the thumb. When the piece measures 13-14 cm put these 9-11 sts + 1 st each side (= 11-13 thumb sts) on a thread or a stitch holder. Cast on 2 new sts behind the gusset (knit these 2 new sts in stocking sts) = 37-45 sts. Continue to knit until the piece measures 17-18 cm (M.4 and M.5 are now completed, so continue with pearl grey.) Put 19-23 sts for the top of the hand on a thread or a stitch holder = thread no. 1 and 18-22 sts for the palm of the hand on another thread or stitch holder = thread no. 2.
Little finger: Put 4-5 sts from thread no. 1 and 4-5 sts from thread no. 2 back on needle. Cast on 1 more st towards the ring finger = 9-11 sts. Knit in stocking sts until the finger measures approx. 6-6½ cm, then K sts tog. 2 by 2. Pull the thread through sts and sew tight. Put all sts from thread no. 1 and thread no. 2 back on needle, pick up 1 st towards the little finger (= 30-36 sts) and K 2 rounds, then put sts back on threads or stitch holder = 15-18 sts on thread no. 1 and 15-18 sts on thread no. 2.
Ring finger: Put 4-5 sts from thread no. 1 and 4-5 sts from thread no. 2 back on needle. Cast on 1 st each side in between the threads = 10-12 sts. Knit the finger until it measures approx. 7-7½ cm, then knit sts tog. 2 by 2. Pull thread through sts and sew tight.
Middle finger: Put 5-6 sts from thread no. 1 and 5-6 sts from thread no. 2 back on needle. Cast on 1 st in between the threads and pick up 1 st towards the little finger = 12-14 sts. Knit until the finger measures approx. 8-8½ cm, then knit sts tog. 2 by 2. Pull the thread through sts and sew tight.
Index finger: Put 6-7 sts from thread no. 1 and 6-7 sts from thread no. 2 back on needle. Cast on 1 st in between the threads and pick up 1 st towards the middle finger = 14-16 sts. Knit until the finger measures approx. 7-7½ cm, then knit sts tog. 2 by 2. Pull the thread through sts and sew tight.
Thumb: Put the 11-13 thumb sts back on needle and pick up 2 sts at the back of the thumb = 13-15 sts around the thumb. Knit until the thumb measures approx. 6-6 ½ cm, then knit sts tog. 2 by 2. Pull the thread through sts and sew tight.
Left glove: Knit as right glove but reverse, i.e insert the MT in the secend but last st.
Assembly: Sew a small mattress st in between each finger to cover the hole.

Diagram

symbols = off white
symbols = pearl grey
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Marya K wrote:

Jeg har veldig sensitiv hud og vil gjerne bruke garn som ikke er laget av ull. Hvilke alternativer kan jeg bruke?

06.08.2021 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marya, DROPS Paris er 100% bomuld - indgår i samme garngruppe C og kan strikkes på samme opskrifter :)

06.08.2021 - 14:04

country flag Erika wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zum Ärmel. Ich muss bei meiner Grösse je cm 16 mal 2M aufnehmen. Da wäre ich mit den Zunahmen nach 22 cm ( 6 cm Bündchen + 16 cm Aufnamen ) fertig. Wird dann bis zur Ärmelabnahme 48cm ( 6 M abk. ) ohne zunahmen gerade hoch gestrickt? Lieben Dank für Ihre Antwort Erika

22.02.2017 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Erika, genau, so haben Sie genügend Maschen wenn Sie das Diagram stricken sollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.02.2017 - 09:47

country flag Erika Henze wrote:

Liebes Dropsteam, . Es steht beim Vorder-und Rückenteil: gleichzeitig bei jeder 3.R innerhalb der Blendenmaschen je 1 M aufnehmen total 17 mal. Dann beim Vorderteil: mit den Aufnahmen am Kragen fortfahren, gleichzeitig bei jeder 2. R 1 M in Krausrippe stricken total 15 mal. Meine Frage: beim Kragen hätte ich dann 17+15= 32 M für den Kragen zugenommen ? Und wo mache ich die Zunahmen beim Kragen. Gleich neben der ersten Masche ? . Vielen lieben Dank ! Erika

03.02.2017 - 16:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Henze, so sollen Sie für den Kragen zunehmen: 6 M Kraus recht (Blendemaschen) + 17 M + 15 M = 38 M Kraus re. Siehe "Tipp zum Aufnehmen (gilt für den Kragen)" am Anfang der Anleitung für die ersten Zunahmen: am rechten Vorderteil nehmen Sie 1 M nach den Maschen in Krausrippe zu, und am linken Vorderteil nehmen Sie 1 M vor den Maschen in Krausrippe zu. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.02.2017 - 16:54

country flag Manuela wrote:

Bei den Handschuhen: Führe ich den hellen Faden für die Muster M4 und M5 die ganze Zeit mit oder fange ich bei jeder Runde neu damit an?

06.01.2015 - 06:53

DROPS Design answered:

Sie führen den Faden mit, er wird ja in der ganzen Rd immer wieder bei den Mustern benötigt. M.4 liegt am Handrücken, M.5 an der Innenfläche der Hand.

07.01.2015 - 23:47

country flag Petra wrote:

Wieviel Garn benötige ich für die Handschuhe und Mütze?

09.12.2014 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Die Angaben finden Sie unter der Anleitung für die Jacke, dort stehen die Anleitungen für die Mütze und die Handschuhe mit dem benötigten Material.

10.12.2014 - 22:33

country flag Lena wrote:

Det skal være 17 m x 22 p glattstrikk for å få 10 x 10 cm

14.01.2009 - 19:14

country flag Lena wrote:

17x22m for å få 10x10 cm

14.01.2009 - 19:13

country flag Siv wrote:

Hva er strikkefasthet på denne oppskriften?

14.01.2009 - 18:42

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Waar vinden we de beschrijving van het patroon

12.08.2007 - 07:19

Stephanie wrote:

What is the tension? I can't find it on the instructions

04.08.2007 - 01:55