DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 102-33
SCARF
Size: One-size
Measurement: Approx 30 cm x 120 cm
Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 36, amethyst mix

DROPS needles size 9 mm – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting tension.
DROPS crochet hook size 9 mm - for crochet edge

HAT
Size: One-size
Head measurement: 56/58
Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
300 g colour no 36, amethyst mix

DROPS double pointed needle size 8 mm – or needle size needed for correct knitting tension.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 10 sts x 22 rows garter sts = 10 x 10 cm
Garter st: Knit all rows back and forth on needle

Scarf: Remember knitting tension! Cast on 20 sts on needle size 9 mm with Snow. When piece measures 20 cm inc 1 sts on each side on every 6th row 5 times in total = 30 sts. When piece measures 89 cm cast off 1 sts on each side on every 6th row 5 times in total = 20 m. Cast off when piece measures 120 cm.
Crochet edge: Crochet edge with crochet hook size 9 mm and Snow around entire scarf as follows: 1 dc, *3 ch and skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc * repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc.

HAT

Knitting tension: 9 sts x 16 rows moss sts with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm or 11 sts x 15 rows stocking sts with 1 thread = 10 x 10 cm
Moss stitch: 1st round: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*. 2nd round: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row.
Increase: Inc by knitting 2 threads from 1 sts separately in all sts, apart from every 4th sts. I.e. 1 sts with 2 threads turn into 2 sts with 1 thread, but every 7th and 8th thread are knit like 1st (sts number is then 77 sts).

Hat: Knit piece in the round. Cast on 44 sts on with 2 threads Snow. Knit 1 row garter sts. Continue in moss sts until piece measures 9 cm. Change to 1 thread and complete hat in stocking sts at the same time inc 1 sts in each sts - see explanation above = 77 sts on row.
Continue in stocking sts until piece measures 45 cm. Now knit sts tog 2 by 2 (knit sts as before) = 39 sts. When piece measures 48 cm knit sts tog 2 by 2 on every other row 2 times in total = 10 sts. Pull thread through the 10 sts. Hat measures approx 51 cm.

Pompom:
Make a large pompom, approx 13 cm in diameter. Sew it on hat at outermost point.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Regnier wrote:

Bonjour , pourriez vous me dire combien faut il de pelote pour le bonnet et l écharpe . merci

28.10.2016 - 20:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Regnier, vous trouverez les quantités nécessaires à la réalisation de chaque pièce sous l'onglet "matériels". Soit pour chaque pièce: 300 g / 50 g une pelote Eskimo = 6 pelotes x 2 = 12 pelotes pour réaliser l'ensemble. Bon tricot!

31.10.2016 - 09:08

country flag NICOLETA JAUCA wrote:

Il y a une erreur, s'il vous plaît: l'echantillon aparaît pour 10 mailles sous la photo, et sous neuf mailles dans l'explication, ce qui empêche le moteur de recherche de trouver le modèle, je vous remeric de m'avoir lue:)

10.03.2016 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Jauca, effectivement, la raison en est que le bonnet et l'écharpe ont une tension différente (10 m pour l'écharpe et 9/11 m pour le bonnet). Merci. Bon tricot!

10.03.2016 - 14:45

country flag Merete Gulbrandsen Lundiin wrote:

Kjempefin, skal strikkes til datteren min, så få gjerne inn oppskriften i barnestr også

17.12.2014 - 11:40

country flag Romy wrote:

Ok, danke. Ich werd's mal so probieren. Es ist möglich das die Bommel etwas schwerer ist, als gedacht. Obwohl sie eigentlich kaum was wiegt. Liebe Grüße und danke noch mal.

18.02.2013 - 12:27

country flag Romy wrote:

Hallo, Ja ich hab die originalwolle genommen. Ich habe auch nach Anleitung gestrickt und zum Schluss sogar ein Knäul übrig gehabt. Dabei hab ich noch ein ganzes Knäul für die Bommel genommen. Es ist ja auch so, dass mit zunehmenden Tragen die Mütze sich weitet. Dadurch die Mütze so lange ist, zieht sie dann immer so nach hinten. Kann man da nachträglich nix machen um die Mütze wieder etwas enger zu machen?! Liebe Grüße Romy

17.02.2013 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Romy, haben Sie evtl. die Bommel schwerere und kompakter gemacht als bei unserem Modell? Ich würde an Ihrer Stelle als Notlösung versuchen die überschüssige Weite hinten einzunähen und eine Naht zu machen.

18.02.2013 - 09:35

country flag Romy wrote:

Danke noch mal für die Hilfe. Ich hab die Mütze jetzt fertig, sieht schick aus. Leider ist sie nach zwei dreimal tragen mir viel zu groß geworden. Die Wolle hat sich sehr gedehnt. Was ganz man da machen. Ich möchte die Mütze nicht wieder auftrennen. Vielen Dank Romy

14.02.2013 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Romy, haben Sie die Originalwolle bennutzt und hat die Maschenprobe gestimmt?

15.02.2013 - 14:13

country flag Romy wrote:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Ich muss aber noch mal nachfragen. Wenn ich so stricke wie im Video, dann stricke ich 2 M re zusammen, eine M rechts und zwei M rechts verschränkt. Das wiederhole ich dann immer wieder? Die nächste Reihe normal rechts stricken bis 48 cm erreicht sind und dann alle 2 Reihen 2 zusammenstricken? Sorry für die vielen Fragen, bin noch nicht so strickerfahren. Liebe Grüße

06.02.2013 - 22:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Romy, die M werden ganz normal rechts zusammengestrickt, also nicht verschränkt . Im Video werden verschiedene Techniken gezeigt (siehe Begleittext), hier braucht man nur das re zusammenstricken. Und ja, nachdem das 1. x zusammengestrickt wird, wird bis 48 cm weitergestrickt und dann wieder 2 R über alle M je zwei M zusammenstricken. Gutes Gelingen!

07.02.2013 - 08:47

country flag Romy wrote:

Hallo, Ich stricke die Mützen bei dieser Anleitung. Da ich nicht ganz so strickgewandt bin, komme ich an einer Stelle nicht weiter. Der letzte Abschnitt von " Glatt weiterstricken bis.......Die Mütze Mist jetzt 51 cm." Ich hab mir die Videoanleitung von dem 2 und 2 zusammenstricken angeschaut. Aber wie oft und wo wird das wiederholt. Die ganze Reihe durch oder nur an einer Stelle? Und welche letzte Masche wie gehabt stricken? Wäre sehr dankbar für eine schnelle Anwort. Liebe Grüße

05.02.2013 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Romy, es werden über alle Maschen je 2 M zusammengestrickt. Die Maschenzahl halbiert sich also. Sie sie mit 39 M starten, stricken Sie 19 x 2 M zusammen und dann eine einzeln, Bei der nächsten R mit je 2 M zusammenstricken werden aus den 20 Maschen 10 Maschen. Da die Mütze rund gestrickt wird, haben Sie hier keine Randmasche, die wie gehabt gestrickt wird.

06.02.2013 - 09:42

country flag DROPS Desing DE wrote:

Jede 4. Masche wird nicht verdoppelt (steht in der Anleitung unter "Aufnehmen"), so kommt man auf die 77 M. Ich werde es zur Verdeutlichung nochmals in den Text schreiben.

19.09.2010 - 21:40

country flag Heike wrote:

Heute ist die Wolle gekommen und ich habe angefangen zu stricken. Wenn ich 44 Maschen habe und soll in Jede 1 Masche aufnehmen komme ich doch auf 88, oder? In der Anleitung steht aber 77. Wie gehts denn jetzt richtig?

19.09.2010 - 20:35