DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 104-32
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements at chest: 33 7/8”-36 ¼”-39 3/8”-43 3/8”-48”-53½”
Full length: 23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 ¼”-26”-26 ¾”-27½”

Materials:DROPS Karisma from Garnstudio
color no 16, dark gray:
700-750-800-900-950-1050 g
DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 14, dark gray

DROPS circular needle size 5 mm [US 8] (80 cm [31½’’]) – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting gauge.
DROPS circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7] (80 cm [31½’’]) – for Rib
DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm [US D/3] - for button cover.
DROPS crochet hook size 6 mm [J/10] – for buttonhole loop and crochet edge

2 buttons – approx 2 cm [3/4’’] in diameter.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 16 sts x 34 rows garter sts = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]

Rib: * K2, P3 *, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts: Knit all rows in garter sts back and forth on needle

Increasing tip: Inc for collar within 5 outermost edge sts. Inc by YO on needle, on next row K into back of YO sts (i.e. knit into back of sts instead of into front of sts). Knit new sts in garter sts.

Knitting tip: Slip 1st sts as if to knit loosely when turning on middle of row. Tighten thread and continue knitting like before. This is done to avoid holes in the turn.

Back piece: Remember knitting gauge! Due to sts number knit back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 99-104-109-119-129-139 sts (includes 1 edge st on each side) on circular needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Karisma. Knit 1 row garter st from WS. Continue as follows – seen from RS: 1 edge sts, Rib over next 95-100-105-115-125-135 sts – see explanation above, finish with K2 and 1 edge sts. When piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm [4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 ¾”-4 ¾”] continue on circular needle size 5 mm [US 8] and in garter sts – see explanation above. At the same time on 1st row dec evenly to 70-76-82-90-100-110 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm [13”-13 3/8”-13 ¾”-14 ¼”-14½”-15”] cast on new sts for sleeve on each side on every other row (i.e. at end of each row): 1 st 7-6-7-8-10-11 times, 2 sts 8-8-7-7-6-6 times and 5 sts 5-5-5-4-3-2 times = 166-170-174-174-174-176 sts. Continue in garter sts. When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm [22 ¾”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 ¼”-26”-26 ¾”] bind off middle 12-14-16-16-16-18 sts for neck. Continuing bind off 1 st on next row at neckline = 76-77-78-78-78-78 sts left on each shoulder/sleeve. Bind off loosely when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm [23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 ¼”-26”-26 ¾”-27½”].

Right front piece: Knit piece back and forth. Cast on 56-56-61-66-71-76 sts (includes 1 edge st on each side and 5 sts mid front) on circular needles size 4.5 mm [US 7] with Karisma. Knit 1 row garter st from WS.
Read entire next section before knitting commences:
Knit as follows from mid front: 5 sts garter sts, Rib over next 50-50-55-60-65-70 sts – see explanation above and finish with 1 edge sts. When piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm [4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 ¾”-4 ¾”] continue on circular needle size 5 mm [US 8] and in garter sts – see explanation above. At the same time on 1st row dec evenly to 40-43-46-50-55-60 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm [13”-13 3/8”-13 ¾”-14 ¼”-14½”-15”] cast on news sts on side for sleeves and back piece. At the same time when piece measures 34-36-36-38-38-40 cm [13 3/8”-14 ¼”-14 ¼”-15”-15”-15 3/4’’] inc 1 st for collar - read Increasing tip: Inc 1 st on every 4th row 20-20-21-21-22-22 times = 108-110-113-113-114-115 sts. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm [23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 ¼”-26”-26 ¾”-27½”] bind off outermost 76-77-78-78-78-78 sts loosely for shoulder/sleeve = 32-33-35-35-36-37 sts left on neck/edge. Continue with shortened rows as follows –read Knitting tip: * Knit 2 rows over outermost 12 sts towards mid front, 2 rows over outermost 25 sts towards mid front, 2 rows over all sts*, repeat from *-*. Knit until neck edge measures 4.5-5-6-6-6-6.5 cm [1 ¾”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2½”] at shortest point. Bind off.

Left front piece: Cast on and knit like right front piece but reversed.

Assembly: Sew shoulder/sleeve seams in one with mattress sts. Sew neck edge mid back and sew onto neckline.

Cuff: Knit piece back and forth. Pick up 67 to 87 sts (dividable with 5 + 1 edge st on each side) on bottom of sleeve on circular needle size 4.5 mm [US 7]. Knit 2 rows garter sts. Then knit Rib – see explanation above- until cuff measures 22-22-22-23-24-24 cm [8 ¾”-8 ¾”-8 ¾”-9”-9½”-9½”]. Bind off K over K and P over P. Repeat on bottom of other sleeve. Sew bottom sleeve and side seams in one within 1 edge st.

Crochet edge: Crochet edge around jacket opening with crochet hook size 6 mm [US J/10] and Snow as follows: 1 sc,* 2 ch, skip 1-1.5 cm [3/8”-6/8”], 1 sc *, repeat from *-*.

Crochet button: Crochet 2 button covers with Karisma on crochet hook size 3 mm [US D/3]. Crochet 2 ch, then crochet 6 sc in the first of the 2 ch that were crochet, finish off with 1 sl st in first sc (=1st round).
2nd round: 1 ch, crochet 2 sc in each sc and finish off with 1 sl st in first sc in beginning of round (= 12 sc).
3rd + 4th round: 1 ch, crochet 1 sc in each sc and finish off with 1 sl st in first sc in beginning of round (= 12 sc).
5th round: 1 ch, crochet 1 sc in every 2nd sc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc in beginning of round (= 6 sc).
Slip button inside cover, sew around opening and pull tog.

Buttonhole loop: Crochet 2 loops on crochet hook size 6 mm [US J/10] with Snow as follows:
1st round: * 8 ch, 1 sc in first ch (sc = middle) *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total = 3 ch loops.
2nd round: Crochet 10 sc around each ch loop, finish off with 1 sl st in middle sc.
3rd round: (only crochet this round on one of the 2 buttonhole loops): 18 ch, 1 sc in sc middle = buttonhole loop.
Sew buttonhole loops onto jacket approx 30 – 35 cm [11 ¾”-13 ¾”] from bottom edge – place buttonhole loop on right front piece. Sew middle of loops on approx 8 cm [3 1/8’’] from mid front. Sew 1 button on in middle of each loop.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

Ana wrote:

No entiendo como se termina el cuello. Que son filas acortadas? se trabajan separado 12 puntos y25 puntos? gracias Ana

12.03.2018 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ana. Sí, el cuello se trabaja con las filas acortadas según las explicaciones del patrón. Primero se trabaja de ida y vuelta solo sobre los 12 puntos más externos, después sobre los 25 puntos y al final sobre todos los puntos. Repetir esta secuencia a lo largo de todo el cuello para darle forma redonda

13.03.2018 - 15:20

country flag Caroline Van Veen wrote:

Zet vanaf een hoogte van 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm nieuwe st op voor de mouwen aan weerskanten in elke 2e nld (dwz aan het eind van elke nld): 7-6-7-8-10-11 x 1 st, 8-8-7-7-6-6 x 2 st en 5-5-5-4-3-2 x 5 st = 166-170-174-174-174-176 st. Dit stuk klopt niet, als ik de meerderingen gedaan heb kom ik bijlange na niet tot 176 steken.

19.05.2014 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Caroline. Het patroon klopt. Je hebt 110 st en zet nu op aan beide kanten van het werk: 11 keer 1 st (= 22 st), 6 keer 2 st (= 24 st) en 2 keer 5 st (= 20 st) = 66 st + 110 = 176 st.

20.05.2014 - 16:49

country flag Caroline Van Veen wrote:

Ik ben methet achterpand bezig, heb de boord gemaakt. In het patroon staat datik in ribbelsteek verder moet gaan en moet vermeerderen tot een getal wat lager is als de opgezette steken. Hoenu verder?

12.05.2014 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Caroline. Je hebt gelijk. Dat is een kleine vertaalfout, het moet natuurlijk minderen zijn. Ik heb het patroon aangepast. Bedankt voor het melden en veel breiplezier verder.

13.05.2014 - 16:27

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Hoi. Misschien kunt u vertellen waar en waarom het fout gaat, en wij kunnen het patroon bekijken en u verder helpen??? Gr. Tine

15.02.2010 - 09:47

country flag Aaltje wrote:

Dit patroon klopt niet hoor!!!

14.02.2010 - 16:36

country flag Anne wrote:

Ajaton, tyylikäs

22.08.2007 - 11:47

Ragnhild wrote:

Veldig fin og elegant!

09.07.2007 - 13:58

country flag Maria wrote:

Den ser fin nok ud, men meget stor. Og få lige styr på den lukke-mekanisme.

05.07.2007 - 22:34

country flag Anette wrote:

Jag bara älskar denna tröjan. Mörk färg, hög myströjfaktor och samtidigt elegant och stilfull En av mina favoriter

25.06.2007 - 03:58

country flag Lis Rasmussen wrote:

Elegant model, men jeg syntes det er flot strik der er vist overalt

01.06.2007 - 19:09