DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Felicia Smiles

Colorful DROPS cardigan in ”Fabel” with zig-zag pattern, sizes S to XXXL

DROPS 104-1
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements at chest:
Full length: 21 ¼”-22”-22 ¾”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 ¼”

Materials:DROPS Fabel from Garnstudio
100-100-100-150-150-150 g
of each of following colors:
no 520, brown mix,
no 543, red orange mix,
no 672, wine mix,
no 674, heather mix,

DROPS needle size 7 mm [US 10 ½] - for casting on
DROPS needle size 4 mm [US 6] –
or needle size needed to obtain correct knitting gauge

DROPS Inka metal button no 531: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 28 sts x 30 rows zig-zag pattern = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]

Pattern: See diagram M.1. Diagram is seen from RS.

Stripes: Knit stripes as follows:
10 rows red orange mix no 543,
10 rows wine mix no 672,
10 rows heather no 674,
10 rows brown mix no 520,
Repeat these 40 rows until completed measurement.

Garter st: Knit all rows.

Binding off tip: When sts are bound off knit stockinette sts over remaining sts in current pattern repeat.

Shaping neckline: Dec as follows after 5 sts garter sts: Slip 1 sts as if to knit, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before 5 sts garter sts: K2 tog

Buttonhole: Bind off for buttonhole on right front band. 1 buttonhole: bind off 3rd sts from edge and cast on 1 new sts over the bind off sts on next row.
Bind off for buttonhole when piece measures:
Size S: 10, 17, 24, 31 and 38 cm [4”, 6 ¾”, 9½”, 12 ¼” and 15”].
Size M: 11, 18, 25, 32 and 39 cm [4 ¾”, 7”, 9 ¾”, 12½” and 15 ¼” ].
Size L: 12, 19, 26, 33 and 40 cm [4 ¾”, 7½”, 10 ¼”, 13” and 15 3/4’’].
Size XL: 11, 17, 23, 29, 35 and 41 cm [4 3/8”, 6 ¾”, 9”, 11 3/8”, 13 ¾” and 16 1/8”].
Size XXL: 12, 18, 24, 30, 36 and 42 cm [4 ¾”, 7”, 9½”, 11 ¾”, 14 ¼” and 16½”].
Size XXXL: 11, 17, 24, 30, 37 and 43 cm [4 3/8”, 6 ¾”, 9½”, 11 ¾”, 14½” and 17” ].

Increasing tip (applies to sleeve): Inc in 4th sts from front edge on each side by knitting 2 sts in one sts. Knit new sts in stockinette sts between first inc and dec on each side on M.1.


Back piece:
Knit piece back and forth on needle.
Cast on 110-120-130-146-160-182 sts with needles size 7 mm [US 10 ½] with red orange mix.
K 2 rows.
Change to needle size 4 mm [US 6].
Continue as follows – seen from RS: 1 edge sts, K 0-5-10-0-7-0, M.1. over next 108-108-108-144-144-180 sts (= 6-6-6-8-8-10 pattern repeat), K 0-5-10-0-7-0 and 1 edge sts. Continue M.1 in stripes – see explanation above.
When piece measures 20 cm [8’’] inc 2 sts on each pattern repeat – i.e. inc 1 sts in 3rd and 16th sts in each pattern repeat = inc 12-12-12-16-16-20 sts in total – inc by knitting 2 sts in same sts = 122-132-142-162-176-202 sts. Continue with 7 sts (in stead of 6) between every inc and dec in M.1.
When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13 ¾”-14 ¼”-14½”-15”-15 ¼”-15 3/4’’] bind off for armhole on each side of every other row – read bind off tip: 10 sts 1-1-1-1-1-2 times, 3 sts 0-0-1-1-3-3 times, 2 sts 0-2-3-3-3-4 times and 1 sts 0-1-1-1-2-3 times = 102-102-102-122-122-122 sts. Continue pattern with 1 edge sts on each side until piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm [20½”-21 ¼”-22”-22 ¾”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”], now bind off the 40 middle sts for neck = 31-31-31-41-41-41 sts (= 1½-1½-1½-2-2-2 pattern repeats left on each shoulder).
Bind off remaining sts when piece measures approx 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21 ¼”-22”-22 ¾”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 ¼”].

Right front piece: Knit piece back and forth on needle. Cast on 60-65-70-78-85-96 sts (incl 5 front edge sts and 1 edge sts) on needles size 7 mm [US 10 ½] with red orange mix.
K 2 rows.
Change to needle size 4 mm [US 6].
Continue as follows – seen from RS: 5 front edge sts in garter sts, M.1 over next 54-54-54-72-72-90 sts, K 0-5-10-0-7-0 and 1 edge sts. Continue M.1 in stripes like back piece. Remember buttonhole on right front edge – see explanation above.
When piece measures 20 cm [8’’] inc 2 sts on each pattern repeat – i.e. inc 1 sts in 3rd and 16th sts in each pattern repeat = inc 6-6-6-8-8-10 sts in total – inc by knitting 2 sts in same sts = 66-71-76-86-93-106 sts. Continue with 7 sts (in stead of 6) between every inc and dec in M.1.
At the same time when piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm [13 ¾”-14 ¼”-14½”-15”-15 ¼”-15 3/4’’] bind off for armhole on side as back piece. At the same time when piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm [15 ¼”-15 ¾”-16 1/8”-16½”-17”-17 ¼”] knit 4 rows garter sts over 17 sts towards mid front (now knit remaining sts in first ½ pattern repeat in stockinette sts).
Bind off 12 sts on next row to shape neckline. Then dec 1 sts to shape neckline within 5 sts garter sts – Read neckline decrease on every other row 13 times in total = 31-31-31-41-41-41 sts (1½-1½-1½-2-2-2 pattern repeats left on shoulder).
Bind off when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm [21 ¼”-22”-22 ¾”-23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 ¼”].

Left front piece: Cast on and knit like right but reversed, do not bind off for buttonholes.

Sleeve: Knit piece back and forth on circular needles.
Cast on 76-76-78-80-80-82 sts (incl 1 edge sts on each side) on needles size 7 mm [US 10 ½] with red orange mix.
K 2 rows.
Change to needle size 4 mm [US 6].
Continue as follows – seen from RS: 1 edge sts, K 1-1-2-3-3-4, M.1 over next 72 sts, K 1-1-2-3-3-4 and 1 edge sts.
Continue M.1 in stripes like back and front pieces.
When piece measures 10-10-10-10-10-6 cm [4”-4”-4”-4”-4”-2 3/8”] inc 1 st on each side – Read Increasing tip – on every 4 -3 -2.5 -2 -1.5 -1.5 cm [1½”-1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-½”-½”] in total 10-12-15-18-21-23 times = 96-100-108-116-122-128 sts – knit new sts in stockinette sts.
When piece measures 49-48-47-47-45-42 cm [19 1/4”-19”-18½”-18½”-17 ¾”-16½”] (shorter measurement in larger sizes due to longer sleeve top) bind off to shape sleeve top on each side on every other row as follows – read bind off tip: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 0-1-3-3-6-10 times and 2 sts 3 times.
Continuing bind off 3 sts on each side until piece measures 57 cm [22½’’].
Bind off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams within 1 edge st. Sew in buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = inc 1 sts by K2 in same st
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (33)

country flag MARTIN wrote:

Je regrette beaucoup de ne pas pouvoir réaliser ce modèle, (voir mon précédent msg ) : beaucoup de coloris de Fabel indisponibles ou supprimés ! Allez vous abandonner les plus belles couleurs ? Antonia MARTIN

16.07.2021 - 15:04

country flag MARTIN wrote:

Bonjour à vous ! Je me faisais une joie de faire ce gilet, mais hélas beaucoup de coloris dans la gamme Fabel sont indisponibles ou (et) supprimés, notamment les couleurs foncées qui exhaltent les couleurs ! J'ai bien essayé, mais en vain, d'en trouver sur internet, mais ça n'a pas abouti. Avez-vous l'intention d'abandonner les si beaux mélanges de couleur de Fabel ? Dites-moi. Antonia MARTIN

16.07.2021 - 14:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Martin, les couleurs DROPS Fabel utilisées pour ce modèle ne sont effectivement plus disponibles, vous avez toutefois encore un choix de plus de 50 autres couleurs dans le nuancier, votre magasin DROPS saura vous conseiller - même par mail ou téléphone - les couleurs en fonction de vos envies. Bon tricot!

19.07.2021 - 07:42

country flag Lise wrote:

Hej Drops, jeg kan ikke finde numrene på garnet, de er vist lavet om?? Hvilke numre skal jeg bruge for at få en tilsvarende farve trøje som på billedet/opskriften?? Tusind tak for mange gode opskrifter, som jeg flittigt har gjort brug af :-)

20.06.2018 - 03:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lise, Ja nogle af Fabel farverne er desværre udgået, du skulle kunne bruge farve 672 vinrød (samme), 912 chokolade (istedet for brunmix), 153 texmex (istedet for rødorange), 904 lavendel eller 916 grand canyon (istedet for lyngmix). Det er ikke samme farver og det vil ikke blive samme striber, men alle farverne passer sammen. God fornøjelse! :)

20.06.2018 - 08:00

country flag Lise wrote:

Hej jeg har et problem med garnnumrene, de synes ikke at finde mere, hvilke numre skal/kan jeg bruge istedet, så trøjen bliver nogenlunde tilsvarende den som på billedet? :-) 1000 tak for mange dejlige opskrifter, som jeg flittigt har gjort brug af :-)

17.06.2018 - 00:27

country flag Christelle wrote:

Bonjour. Je suis en train de faire ce beau gilet, taille XXL. Je viens de commencer le devant droit. Pour les boutonnières, rien n'est indiqué pour la taille XXL. Pouvez-vous m'aider? D'avance merci

15.11.2017 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christelle, les indications des boutonnières en taille XXL ont été ajoutées, merci. Bon tricot!

16.11.2017 - 08:46

country flag Sabine wrote:

Hallo Drops-Design-Team, bei dieser Anleitung stimmt nach den Kommentaren von mehreren Strickerinnen der weltweit größten Strickgemeinschaft die Anleitung für die Ärmel nicht - wurden die Fehler inzwischen behoben? Und wenn ja bei allen Übersetzungen? Und wenn nicht - erfolgt das dann noch? Wäre schön!

06.08.2016 - 03:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, es git keine Korrektur für diese Anleitung, da bei uns keinerlei Rückmeldungen über Probleme mit den Ärmeln eingetroffen sind. Möchten Sie Ihr Problem etwas genauer erläutern?

08.08.2016 - 09:25

country flag Jozefien wrote:

OK. Merci.

21.11.2014 - 16:42

country flag Jozefien wrote:

Dat begrijp ik. Maar hoe krijg ik de steken geteld als ze allemaal schuin staan ? Schatten is riskant.

21.11.2014 - 14:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Jozefien. Doe als volgt: Leg een liniaal horizontaal op het lapje en bij 0 en 10 cm verticaal een speld stekken. Dan steken ertussen tellen. Op het middden van het lapje, niet onder- of bovenaan

21.11.2014 - 16:25

country flag Jozefien wrote:

Ik ben de stekenverhouding op het proeflapje aan het meten, maar kom er niet aan uit: hoe weet je dat je het goede aantal steken heb opstaan ? Langs de schuine lijntjes niet, lijkt me, maar hoe dan wel ?

21.11.2014 - 11:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Jozefien. Je meet het proeflapje horizontaal en diagonaal - op de langste/breedste stuk.

21.11.2014 - 13:29

country flag Beppie wrote:

Het betreft de meerderingen vd mouw! Als ik mt xl brei hoe gaat dan de 1e nld waarin ik de mouwmeerderingen moet doen? in combinatie met het M1 patroon?

01.09.2014 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

U breit dan 1 kantsteek, meerder 1 steek, 3 r, herhaal M.1 tot er 4 st over zijn en brei die als 3 r, meerder 1, 1 kantsteek. Hierna breit u 1 kantst, 4 r, herhaal M.1, 4 r, 1 kantsteek, enzovoorts.

01.09.2014 - 20:39