DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 2.20 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Seashore Stripes

Knitted sweater with stripes and raglan in DROPS Paris. Size children 5 to 14 years.

DROPS Children 15-14
Size: 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 -11/12 - 13/14 years
All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450 g color no 23, light gray
100-100-100-150-150 g color no 48, petrol
100-100-100-150-150 g color no 16, white
100 g for all sizes color no 12, red
no 25, moss green

DROPS circular needles and double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7
or the needle size needed to obtain correct gauge

Gauge: 18 sts x 23 rows on needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 2.20 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Pattern: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Stripes: Work stripes after diagram M.1.

Work as follows:
Yoke: See start of diagram M.1.
Back and front pieces: Continue with diagram M.1. After M.1 repeat M.1b until finished measurement.
Sleeve: Work diagram M.1 like back and front pieces until * in diagram. Work M.1c 1 time in height. Continue with M.1 from * in diagram. After M.1 repeat M.1b until finished measurement.

Knitting tip (applies to neck): To avoid holes when turning piece slip 1st st as if to knit when knitting back and tighten yarn slightly.

Increasing tip (applies to raglan):
Inc as follows from RS: Start 2 sts from marking threads: Yo, K4 (marking thread is placed in middle between these sts), yo.
On next row K into back of yo (i.e. knit into back of sts in stead of into front of sts) to avoid creating hole when increasing.
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YOKE
Work piece in round on circular needle.
The sweater is worked top down so the length is easily adjust according to requirement.
Cast on 76-80-84-88-88 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with petrol. Work Rib K2 / P2 until piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8''.
Insert a marker at beginning of round (= right side).
Continue with a rise on back of neck (to ensure neck will fit neatly).
Continue in Rib K2/ P2 and work back and forth as follows:
Work 38-40-42-44-44 sts, turn piece – read Knitting tip – and work back to marker. Turn piece.
Work 43-45-47-49-49 sts. Turn piece.
Work 48-50-52-54-54 sts back. Turn piece.
Work 56-58-60-62-62 sts. Turn piece.
Work 64-66-68-70-70 sts back. Turn piece.
Work 1 round over all sts and continue to marker.
Continue in stockinette in the round.
K1 round with petrol at the same time inc 12-10-8-12-12 sts evenly = 88-90-92-100-100 sts. Continue 8 sts past marker (move the beginning of the round).
Insert 4 new markers into piece as follows:
1st marker in beginning of round (= 1st transition between right arm and back piece ), 2nd marker after 28-29-30-34-34 sts (= back piece), 3rd marker after 44-45-46-50-50 sts (= left sleeve), 4th marker after 72-74-76-84-84 sts (= front piece).
Sts between 4th and 1st marker = right sleeve.
Continuing in stockinette st and stripes after diagram M.1- see explanation above – until completed measurement.
At the same time inc for raglan: Inc 1 sts on each side of 4 markers (= 8 inc) – read Increasing tips. Inc on each round 2-4-6-3-7 times and then on every other round 15-15-15-18-17 times.
After all inc for raglan there are 224-242-260-268-292 sts on needle.
On next round slip 50-54-58-58-64 sts on each side (between 2nd and 3rd markers and between 4th and 1st marker) on stitch holders for sleeves.
At the same time cast on 8 new sts each side over the sts that are being put on holders = 140-150-160-168-180 sts on needle.

Back and front pieces:
Continue in stockinette sts and stripes after M.1 – see explanation above.
On 1st round insert 1 marker in each side of piece under arms (i.e. 4 new sts on each side of markers).
At the same time when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from markers in sides dec 1 sts on each side of marker, repeat dec on every 5-6-5.5-6-6 cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 1/4"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times = 124-134-140-148-160 sts.
Continue until piece measures 41-44-49-51-53 cm / 16 1/8"-17 1/4"-19 1/4"-20"-21" from shoulder. If extra length is required continue working stripes from M.1.
Now continue in Rib K2 / P2 with light gray.
NOTE: Size 7/8 years: Before starting Rib K1 round and dec 2 sts evenly = 132 sts.) Continue like this until Rib measures approx 4 cm / 1½''.
Bind off loosely with K over K and P over P.
Piece measures approx 45-48-53-55-57 cm / 17 3/4"-19"-21"-21 5/8"-22½" from shoulder.

Sleeve:
Slip sts from stitch holder (= 50-54-58-58-64 sts) on to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Continue in stockinette sts and stripes from M.1 – see explanation above.
At the same time on 1st round cast on 8 new sts under sleeve = 58-62-66-66-72 sts.
Insert a marker mid under sleeve (i.e. 4 new sts on each side of marker).
When piece measures 4-4-3-3-3 cm / 1½"-1½"-1"-1"-1" from marker mid under sleeve dec 1 sts on each side of marker, repeat dec on every 3.5-3-3-4-3.5 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½"-1 1/4" a total of 7-9-11-9-12 times = 44-44-44-48-48 sts.
Continue until piece measures 29-33-36-39-43 cm / 11 3/8"-13"-14 1/4"-15 1/4"-17" from marker mid under sleeve, and now change to light gray.
Continue with Rib K2/ P2 for 6 cm / 2 3/8'', and then bind off loosely with K over K and P over P.

Assembly:
Sew openings under arms.

Diagram

symbols = white
symbols = petrol
symbols = red
symbols = light gray
symbols = moss green
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag JZ wrote:

Thanks for your answer relating to knitting short rows once knitting in rounds! You sent me a video how to do this. I suggest to include this video in your instructions.

28.03.2023 - 16:09

country flag JZ wrote:

Increase decription asks for knitting two rows: first row with increase by Yo and second to knit over the Yo. I assume that increaing every row means that I need to increase by first knitting over Yo from previous row and then immediatly make Yo. Is it a correct assumtion? I.e Yo every single row.

28.03.2023 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear JZ, correct, remember the increases should be always worked as explained under Increasing tip (applies to raglan):, ie work until 2 sts remain before marker, YO, K4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), YO; and repeat at each marker. Happy knitting!

29.03.2023 - 09:23

country flag Laura wrote:

In the raglan directions, so to be more clear, "every other row" does NOT mean alternating rows, it means every subsequent row, therefore each of the next 17 rows, inc 8 in each row. Correct?

23.02.2023 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laura, when you have to increase 7 times on every round, increase on each of the next 7 rounds; when you have to increase on every other round a total of 17 times work as follows *work 1 round without increase, work 1 roudn with increases* work these 2 rounds a total of 17 times (= a total of 34 rounds will have been worked). Happy knitting!

23.02.2023 - 14:49

country flag Laura wrote:

I am having trouble with the raglan part of this pattern. I am making the size 14. I started with 100 stitches on, then inc 8 sts for each of the 7 rows gave me 156 sts, BUT, if I were to add 8 inc per every other row for the next 17 rows, I only have 220 sts - NOT 292. Should I inc 8 sts per row for each of the 17 next rows instead? Help! I look forward to finishing this project!

22.02.2023 - 23:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laura, in size 13/14 years you first increase on every round for raglan a total of 7 times then you increase a total of 17 times on every other round, you will have then: 100 + (7x8) + (17x8) = 292 sts. Happy knitting!

23.02.2023 - 13:48

country flag Timo wrote:

Erre a részre gondoltam: "Folytassuk2 S / 2 F bordás mintával. Oda-vissza haladva kötünk:..."

02.05.2021 - 19:13

country flag Timo wrote:

Köszönöm szépen a gyors választ! Megint elakadtam. Ha a nyakánál kötöm az oda-vissza sorokat, utána elcsúsztatom a kezdést 8 szemmel akkor nekem a legkeskenyebb résznél lesz az új kör kezdete. Annak nem az elejének kellene lennie?

02.05.2021 - 12:55

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Timo, ha a pulóvert körben kötjük (tehát nem kardigánunk van) a sor/kör kezdete gyakran esik a háta és az egyik ujja közé. Sikeres kézimunkáázást!

02.05.2021 - 17:17

country flag Timo wrote:

Sziasztok! Segítségeteket szeretném kérni abban, hogy ha a vállrészt folyamatosan a színén kötöm, mivel körkötőtűvel készítem a minta szerint, akkor is minden sorban kell szaporitani? Nem csak minden másodikban? A másik kérdésem az lenne, hogy a mintaív szerint a színét mutatja a mintának. A körkötés miatt ezt is ugye úgy kell érteni, hogy duplázódik a sorszám? Válaszotokat előre is köszönöm

26.04.2021 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Timo, nem kell duplázni a sorokat a körkötés miatt. Vagyis a vállrész szaporítása, ahogy a leírásban is van : Szap minden körben 2-4-6-3-7 alkalommal majd minden 2. körben 15-15-15-18-17 alkalommal. Ezzel a raglánvonal egészen enyhén íves lesz. A minta kötésénél is MINDEN sort lát a diagramban, de minden sort úgy, ahogy azok a SZO felől látszanak (vagyis S szemkén, tehát a bord mintás szegélyeken kívül a pulóvert végig harisnyakötéssel kell kötni). Sikeres Kézimunkázást!

26.04.2021 - 10:23

country flag Sabine Kastrop wrote:

Ik meerder aan weerszijde van de merkdraden 1 steek. Voor de raglan, dat snap ik. Daarna staat er” Meerder 2-4-6 keer in elke naald ? ( waar in de naald?) en vervolgen 15 in elke tweede naald? ??? Snap echt niet hoe er gemeerderd moet worden. Dan staat er als de meerderingen voltooid zijn. Hoeveel naalden gaat dit over? Ik hoop dat u mij kunt helpen

20.07.2020 - 23:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sabine,

Je meerdert eerst in elke naald en dit doe je voor maat 5/6 2 keer, voor maat 7/8 doe je dit 4 keer, enzooort. Vervolgens meeder je op elke tweede naald dus om de naald. En dit doe je in totaal 15 keer.

23.07.2020 - 11:37

country flag Elsebeth Jungsled wrote:

Hej Jeg forstår ikke helt, at der står man skal strikke rundt og at man slår op på strømpepinde. Kan man bruge rundpinde ? Vh Elsebeth

10.06.2020 - 14:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elsebeth, Ja hvis der er masker nok så de når rundt på en rundpind, så kan du vælge det istedet for strømpepinde. God fornøjelse!

10.06.2020 - 15:04

country flag Marian wrote:

Can I get this pattern knitting from bottom up. Tried top down few times and messed up. Probably because I’m old!

07.04.2020 - 10:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marian, could this video and/or this lesson help you to understand how to knit a jumper top down? Or maybe one of these patterns worked top down could help you? Do not hesitate to contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

09.04.2020 - 15:38