DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Breath of Summer

Crochet DROPS tunic with mussel pattern with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Cotton Viscose or Bomull-Lin. Size S - XXL

DROPS 99-4
Size: S – M – L - XL – XXL
Materials: Drops Alpaca from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 1101, white
and use:
Drops Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 01, white

Or use:
DROPS Bomull-Lin from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 01, white

Drops crochet hook size 5 mm, or size needed to obtain the correct tension

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 12 tr x 7 rows with 1 thread Alpaca and 1 thread Cotton Vicose or 1 thread Bomull-Lin = 10 x 10 cm. 1 repeat of mussel pattern = width approx 12 cm.

Increasing tip 1: To inc 1 dc: crochet 2 dc in 1 dc.
Increasing tip 2: To inc 1 tr: crochet 2 tr in 1 tr (no ch in between).
Increasing tip 3: To inc 1 ch-loop: crochet 2 ch-loops in the same st.

Crochet info: At the beg of each round replace the first tr with 3 ch. Replace first dtr with 4 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in 3rd/4th ch from beg of round.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagram is seen from the RS.

Measuring tip: Because of the weight of the wool all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging.

Back and front piece: The tunic is crochet in the round from the top down. Loosely crochet 71-75-75-79-83 ch on crochet hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Drops Alpaca and 1 thread Drops Cotton Viscose (double thread)or 1 thread Bomull-Lin. Form a ring with a sl st in the first ch. Crochet next round as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 3 ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the 3 next ch*, repeat from *-* = 54-57-57-60-63 dc. Now crochet a round of dc, at the same time inc 22-15-19-20-21 dc evenly – see Increasing tip 1 = 76-72-76-80-84 dc. Continue in M.1 – see Crochet info. After M.1 there are 76-90-95-100-105 ch-loops on round (1 ch-loop = 1 tr + 1 ch). Continue with tr in ch and ch over tr until piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm.

Crochet next round as follows:
Skip 17-19-21-22-22 ch-loops from previous round (= right sleeve), crochet 8 ch (= under arm), crochet 21-26-26-28-30 ch-loops (= front piece), skip 17-19-21-22-22 ch-loops from previous round (= left sleeve), crochet 8 ch (= under arm), crochet 21-26-27-28-31 ch-loops (= back piece). Insert a marking thread each side, in between the 8 ch crochet mid under arm. Continue in ch-loops. NB! On the first round crochet the 8 ch under each arm as follows: 1 tr in the first ch, 1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 ch, 1 tr in the same ch, 1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch, 1 ch and skip 1 ch (= 6 ch-loops under each arm) = 54-64-65-68-73 ch-loops on round in total. Continue in ch-loops in the round, at the same time inc 1 ch-loop – see Increasing tip 3 – on each side of both MT on every round a total of 4-4-6-6-7 times = 70-80-89-92-101 ch-loops.
After all inc piece measures approx 19-20-23-24-27 cm measured from ch-chain at neckline (you have now reached mid chest; if you wish to adjust this crochet additional rounds in ch-loops after the inc). Now crochet 1 round in ch-loops, at the same time inc 4-2-2-14-14 tr evenly on round – see Increasing tip 2 = 144-162-180-198-216 tr/ch.
Now continue in mussel pattern M.2 (beg at start arrow in diagram) = 8-9-10-11-12 horizontal repeats on round. Crochet 3 vertical repeats of M.2, but beg the second and third repeat by the Arrow-B in diagram. After M.2 crochet 2-3-3-3-4 rounds in dtr as follows:
Round 1: Remember crochet info! Crochet 1 dtr in each ch-loop with 1 ch in between each and finish with 1 dtr in the last tr = 72-81-90-99-108 dtr.
Round 2: crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous round with 2 ch in between each dtr (instead of 1) – finish size S here before the last mussel pattern = 72 dtr.
Round 3: crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous round with 3 ch between each dtr - finish size M, L and XL here before the last mussel pattern = 81-90-99 dtr.
Round 4: crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous round with 3 ch between each dtr - finish size XXL here before the last mussel pattern = 108dtr.
Now crochet a round in ch-loops as follows: 1 tr and 1 ch (= 1 ch-loop) in each dtr from previous round, at the same time inc 1 ch-loop – see Increasing tip 3 – in every 3-3-4-4-4 dtr. NB! For size L and XL finish with 1 tr and 1 ch in each of the last 2-3 dtr = 96-108-112-123-135 ch-loops. Continue with 1 round of ch-loops, at the same time inc 6-0-10-6-0 tr – see Increasing tip 2 = 198-216-234-252-270 tr/ch. Now crochet M.2 again (beg at start arrow in diagram), but finish the pattern after row 7.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 2 tr in 1 ch
symbols = 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in the first ch)
symbols = this row is described in the pattern, beg by start arrow
symbols = 7th row
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (178)

Lee wrote:

Can I please ask how many gms of yarn you use for this pattern. Many thanks Lee

16.03.2017 - 07:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lee, you will find total amount of yarn required under tab "Materials", ie in size S for example, you need 200 g DROPS Alpaca + 300 g DROPS Cotton Viscose. Happy crocheting!

16.03.2017 - 08:57

country flag Valeria wrote:

Buongiorno una piccola domanda... quando inizio la seconda riga del diagramma m1 devo fare una maglia alta e poi 2 maglie alte in catenella a venire, oppure una maglia alta, 2maglie alte nella successiva, una maglia alta, 2nella successiva e così via? Grazie per l'aiuto

15.01.2017 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Valeria. Lavora il secondo giro come segue: * 1 maglia alta nell’arco di catenelle, 1 catenella, 1 maglia alta nell’arco di cat successivo, 1 catenella, 1 maglia alta nello stesso arco di catenelle, 1 catenella * ; ripete queste istruzioni su tutto il giro. Buon lavoro!

15.01.2017 - 23:09

country flag Katrine Jensen wrote:

Når jeg skal igang med M2, så er der en stm som laves ned i ingenting? Jeg forstår simpelthen ikke de første to omgange. Eller jo - det er luftmaskebuer som jeg har lavet hele vejen, men hvordan starter jeg de to omgange? Når jeg starter med en stm, som jeg har gjort i foregående rækker, så vil jeg vel ende med 144 masker igen, men så tager jeg en ind på næste række, så passer maskeantallet ikke med 8*18 masker. Jeg må have misforstået noget, men hvad? :)

11.10.2016 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin. Jeg er ikke 100%, men jeg vil sige st denne förste st hörer til den sidste st fra sidste omg (se til sidst paa diagrammet - der har du 2 st - og der mangler en st). Dette var nok den nemmeste maade at tegne det paa. Saa jeg vil sige du starter med 1 st i den sidste st fra sidste omg, saa du kan starte en ny omgang med 1 lm, spring förste st over osv.

12.10.2016 - 12:45

Barbara wrote:

Lovely pattern! I need to increase the neck line and underarm. Can I just start with more chains for the neck opening and increase the underarm from 8 stitches to 12?

29.09.2016 - 08:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to each individual request, you will have to recalculating with your gauge and required finished measurements - Further personnal assistance will be provided by the store where you bought your yarn. Happy crocheting!

29.09.2016 - 09:16

Nikki wrote:

Can I do this pattern with 1 strand as I get too confused with 2?

26.08.2016 - 16:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nikki, if you want oyu cna work it with one strand, but remember to check your gauge, the gauge indicated in the pattern is for 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strand). Happy crocheting!

28.08.2016 - 14:38

country flag Caroline wrote:

Thank you for posting this pretty pattern. In diagram M1, it shows each subsequent row slightly offset to the left.... does that mean to slip stitch to where the dc (or other stitch as indicated) begins? Thank you.

02.08.2016 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Caroline, that's right, you have to work the dc around the ch from previous round, so sl st to 1st ch and crochet 1st dc ( = 3 ch) over the chain, then ch 1 and continue as in diagram. Happy crocheting!

03.08.2016 - 09:18

country flag Cathleen Wilbourn wrote:

Ok, so i finished this tunic. thank you for posting the pattern. however, i have an issue with the fit. the top fits comfortably but the bottom with the mussels is too loose for my liking. to adjust for this, can i just use a smaller hook size than the top mesh part or are there any other ideas im not aware of? thanks so much

05.07.2016 - 08:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wilbourn, for any individual assistance, remember you can get tips & advices from your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

05.07.2016 - 09:02

country flag Cathleen Wilbourn wrote:

Helo, first of all I love this pattern. But here is my question...I am down into M2, and ready for the second repeat where you start at row B. Do I count all the st and ch to keep count right and even when I start a new mussel, or is there something extra I need to do that I may be missing?

29.06.2016 - 06:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wilbourn, when repeating M.2 from the B arrow, work as before, ie the last row in M.2 is the same as the one before row B. Just repeat the diagram in height as before. Happy crocheting!

29.06.2016 - 08:32

country flag Aline wrote:

Bonjour, Je me permets de vous poser encore une question pour le diagramme M2 en suivant vos instructions j'ai réussi à le commencer mais pour être sûre de ne pas faire d'erreur, je voulais savoir pour le rang 4, 5 et 6 après la maille serrée il y a combien de maille en l'air car le trait est long et j'ai une hésitation, merci beaucoup pour votre réponse bonne journée à vous Aline

31.05.2016 - 10:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Aline, chaque maille en l'air est représentée par 1 trait horizontal, mais effectivement il est parfois plus ou moins grand en fonction de la place dans le diagramme, on aura ainsi 1 ml aux rangs 5 et 6 quand on voit un trait un peu plus long. Bon crochet!

31.05.2016 - 11:07

country flag Aline wrote:

Bonjour, voilà j'ai suivi votre réponse pour commencer M2 mais quand j'ai fini les deux premiers rangs et que je commence le dessin j'ai l'impression qu'il y a plus de 12 dessins sur le rang, je me demande si ce n'est pas à cause des brides qui ont été rajoutée avant car entre les ajouts de ces brides comme ce ne sont pas des arceaux il n'y a pas de ml je vous avoue que je me perd, merci de votre réponse. Aline

30.05.2016 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Aline, en taille XXL, vous avez donc 216 B/ml quand vos augmentations sont faites. Vous crochetez 12 fois M.2 (1 motif (rapport dans le diagramme) de M.2 = 18 m soit 12 x 18 = 216 m). En répétant 9 fois le diagramme en largeur, vous devriez avoir le bon nombre de motifs. Vous devez toujours avoir 216 B/ml au tours 1 et 2 de M.2 et 12 grands arceaux au niveau du rang B (pour avoir 12 coquilles). Bon crochet!

30.05.2016 - 17:40