DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Veronique

DROPS crochet jacket with wide sleeves in 1 thread “Silke Alpaca” or 2 threads “BabyAlpaca Silk ”. Size S - XXXL

DROPS 99-16
Size: S – M - L – XL – XXL - XXXL

Materials: Drops Silke Alpaca from Garnstudio
500-600-650- 700-750-850 g colour no 4010, pearl grey

Or use:
Drops BabyAlpaca Silk from Garnstudio
350-450-500-500-550-650 g colour no 8108, light grey

Drops Crochet Hook size 5 mm, or size needed to obtain the correct tension
3 buttons, approx diameter 2.5 cm (for crochet button covers)

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

Crochet tension: width of 12 dc/tr = 10 cm

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2.

Crochet info: At the beg of each row replace the 1st tr with 3 ch. At the end of row crochet the last tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

Measuring tip: All measurement should be made when piece is lying flat. Because of the pattern the garment and the sleeves will be approx 5 longer than the measurements in the measurement chart.

Back piece: Crochet 55-62-70-77-85-92 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Silke Alpaca or 2 threads BabyAlpaca Silk.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch and crochet 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 10-11-13-14-16-17 times and finish with 1 tr in each of the remaining 1-3-1-3-1-3 ch = 43-49-55-61-67-73 tr on row. Read Crochet info! Now crochet 3 rows with 1 tr in each tr and continue with M.1 (you’ve already crochet the first row, so begin with row 2) = 14-16-18-20-24 ch-loops. Crochet 5 vertical repeats of M.1 (= 15 rows with ch-loops) – piece measures approx 24 cm.
Read all of the following section before continuing!
Now increase for sleeves as follows: Loosely crochet 27-24-21-18-27-24 ch out from one side, cut the thread and loosely crochet 1 sl st and 28-25-22-19-28-25 (incl 1 ch to turn with) out from the other side. Turn the piece and crochet 1 dc in each of the 27-24-21-18-27-24 ch, 3 dc in each ch-loop from M.1 (crochet 4 dc in the last ch-loop from M.1) and 1 dc in each of the 27-24-21-18-27-24 ch = 97-97-97-97-121-121 dc. Now crochet M.2 on the first 3 dc, M.2B on the next 84-84-84-84-108-108 dc and M.2C on the last 10 dc = 8-8-8-8-10-10 horizontal repeats of M.2. Continue in M.2 – repeat pattern from 3rd row. Crochet 4-4-5-5-6-6 vertical repeats of M.2 and now cast off for neckline as follows: crochet 1 more repeat of M.2 but only on the outermost 3-3-3-3-4-4 repeats each side. Cut the thread. Piece measures approx 52-52-57-57-63-63 cm when lying flat – see measuring tip.

Right front piece: Crochet 29-32-36-40-44-47 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Silke Alpaca or 2 threads BabyAlpaca Silk.
Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in the 4th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch and crochet 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 5-5-6-7-8-8 times and finish with 1 tr in each of the remaining 0-3-2-1-0-3 ch = 22-25-28-31-34-37 tr on row. Read Crochet info! Now crochet 3 rows with 1 tr in each tr and continue with M.1 (you’ve already crochet the first row, so begin with row 2) = 7-8-9-10-11-12 ch-loops. Crochet 5 vertical repeats of M.1 (= 15 rows with ch-loops) – piece measures approx 24 cm. Now increase for sleeve as follows: Loosely crochet 28-25-22-19-28-25 ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) out from one side, turn the piece and crochet 1 dc in each of the 27-24-21-18-27-24 ch and 3 dc in each ch-loop from M.1 (crochet 4 dc in the last ch-loop from M.1) = 49-49-49-49-61-61 dc. Crochet M.2 as described for back piece = 4-4-4-4-5-5 horizontal repeats of M.2. Crochet 3-3-4-4-5-5 vertical repeats of M.1 and cast off for neckline as follows: crochet 2 more repeats of M.2 but only on the outermost 3-3-3-3-4-4 repeats at side. Cut the thread after a total of 5-5-6-6-7-7 vertical repeats of M.2. Piece measures approx 52-52-57-57-63-63 cm when lying flat – see measuring tip.

Left front piece: Like right front piece.

Sleeve: Sew shoulder/sleeve seam. Crochet along the whole sleeve on crochet hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Silke Alpaca or 2 threads BabyAlpaca Silk, (back and forth): 1 dc in the corner of sleeve, *5 ch, skip approx 3 cm, 1 dc in sleeve*, repeat from *-* a total of 18-18-22-22-26-26 times. Continue with M.1 (you’ve already crochet the first and second row, so begin with row 3). Crochet ch-loops until piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm and now crochet 1 tr in each dc and 2 tr in each ch-loop = 55-55-67-67-79-79 tr. Crochet 1 row with 1 tr in each tr. Cut the thread.

Assembly: Sew sleeve and side seams.

Front band: Crochet approx 44 to 55 tr along left front edge on hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Silke Alpaca or 2 threads BabyAlpaca Silk, cut the thread. Repeat along right front edge, but crochet from WS – from top down. Turn the piece and crochet 1 row of tr up along right front piece, round the neckline and down along left front piece (crochet 1 tr in each tr along front edges and approx 60 to 70 tr round neckline). Turn the piece and crochet 1 row of dc round the entire opening: up along left front piece, round neckline – crochet 1 dc in each tr – and then down along right front piece – also crochet buttonhole loops as follows (begin 2 cm from neckline): *4 ch, skip 4 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 6 tr*, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 dc in each tr until the end of row.

Button covers: Crochet covers for 3 buttons on crochet hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Silke Alpaca or 2 threads BabyAlpaca Silk as follows
1st round: 2 ch, 6 dc in the first ch and finish with 1 sl st in first dc
2nd round: 1 ch, 2 dc in each dc and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beg of round (= 12 dc)
3rd + 4th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (= 12 dc)
5th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in every other dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (= 6 dc)
Put button inside cover, sew round the opening and pull tight.
Sew on buttons to left front piece.

English explanation to pattern diagram:

In M.1 and M.2:
= row

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr (crochet in ch-loop)
symbols = 3 ch, 1 tr in first ch
symbols = this row is part of the pattern description, beg on row 2.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (44)

country flag Nicole wrote:

Ihr Lieben, das ist ein hübsches Muster und ich werde mich jetzt mal drangeben - vielleicht wäre es gut, die deutsche Version mal zu überarbeiten und als Garnalternative ein vorhandenes Garn einzusetzen. Ich werde in Paris arbeiten... und unten bei den Vorderteilen hat sich ein Fehler eingeschlichen: Dort steht beide Male \"linkes Vorderteil\" (Linkes Vorderteil: Wie das rechte Vorderteil nur spiegelverkehrt.\") Welches Vorderteil ist denn nun in der Anleitung beschrieben?

27.02.2024 - 08:38

country flag Samanta wrote:

Buonasera.lavorando M1 su 67 maglie alte mi vengono 22 archi e non 20. Dove sbaglio

16.09.2023 - 22:20

country flag Lisen wrote:

Kjære Drops! Tusen takk for deres strålende nettside og fantastiske assistanse! ❤ Jeg har noen spørsmål til Véronique. 1: I diagram M2, 5. rad angis "1 stav (hekles om lm-buen)". Men i rad 5 må det vel bli "1 stav i stav"? 2: Jeg vil gjerne ha noen kommentarer til måldiagrammet. Med utgangspunkt i minste størrelse, hva betegner målet 36 (nederst)? Hva betegner den loddrette linjen lengst til venstre, og hvorfor er den brutt øverst? Mange takk!

18.05.2022 - 10:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisen, tak for roserne :) Ja du har ret i at stav hekles i stav på rad 5. Målene nederst er bredden på jakken. Den lodrette linje er højden på jakken og den stiplede linje er der hvor man tager ud til ærmer. Husk at jakke vil vokse i længden pga mønsteret. God fornøjelse!

18.05.2022 - 12:13

country flag Andrea McNicol wrote:

What does 1-3, 1-3, 1-3 mean in this pattern

27.10.2019 - 07:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Andrea, all of the patterns in DROPS are written simultaneously for all sizes. If there is only one number, that means that it's the same for all sizes; if not, each number corresponds to the size being worked. In this case: 1(S) - 3 (M) -1 (L) - 3 (XL) - 1 (XXL) - 3 (XXXL). Happy crocheting!

27.10.2019 - 22:42

country flag Andrea McNicol wrote:

I am trying to work out how much yarn to buy to make the Veronique 99-16 drops pattern. It states that to use the Baby Alpaca Silk you have to use 2 threads. In the amount given it states to buy eg. 500grms. Do you double this as you are having to use 2 threads

30.09.2019 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Andrea! You don't have to double the given amount. Just buy the amount that is stated in the pattern and use it with two thread held together. Happy Crafting!

30.09.2019 - 22:23

country flag Laura wrote:

Buon giorno, mi scusi una volta terminato dietro e i due davanti, procedo a cucire le spalle in alto e a unire le maniche solo in alto, in modo da aver ancora aperta la parte sotto. poi faccio i giri avanti e indietro per terminare la lunghezza e solo dopo cucio i lati ed il sotto delle maniche con il davanti. Per la cucitura la faccia a rovescio prendendo un punto a sx e uno a dx? Grazie infinite Laura

20.06.2017 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura. Sì è corretto e per cucire può prendere un punto a destra e uno a sinistra. Buon lavoro!

20.06.2017 - 14:26

country flag Laura wrote:

Buona sera. Mi.scusi ho.lavorato.ildietro con diagramma M per 5 volte. Quindi lavoro.solo.i.primi3 diagrammi della sesta volta ma fino alla riga 6 o solo la riga 3? Grazie e saluti laura

18.06.2017 - 23:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura. Lavora il diagramma fino alla riga 6 o finchè il lavoro non ha la lunghezza necessaria. Buon lavoro!

19.06.2017 - 07:08

country flag Laura wrote:

Buon giorno. Sono arrivata alla prima riga del diagramma M2. Taglia L . 97 maglie. Mi dice prima 3 m. Diagramma 2a poi m2b fino a quando mancano 10 m. Dove fare M2c. Non capisco cosa significa = 8 ripetizioni di M 2? Una volta finita la riga 2 proseguo con il diagramma fino alla 6 e poi riprendo dalla riga 3. X 4 volte in totale lavoro M2 e bell ultima ripetizione lavoro in totale 3 più 3 ripetizioni ai lati..ma di che riga? Grazie e a presto

17.06.2017 - 15:05

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura. Ripete il diagramma M.2b 7 volte sulle maglie della riga e lavora 1 volta (sempre sulla riga) il diagramma M.1c: in tutto 8 volte. Ripete poi il diagramma 5 volte in verticale e ogni volta inizia dalla riga 3. Lavora poi le spalle solo sulle prime e ultime 3 ripetizioni, iniziando il diagramma dalla riga 3. Le maglie centrali non lavorate sono lo scollo. Buon lavoro!

17.06.2017 - 16:46

Silvia wrote:

No entiendo cómo hacer cuando me toca hacer el signo ^ , en la vuelta 2°( en M2) del Drops 99. Les agradecería me explicaran- Gracias Silvia

11.10.2016 - 16:09

country flag Fokje wrote:

Hoe maak ik de schouder en de zijnaden vast? hoe hebben jullie dat gedaan?

28.07.2016 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Fokje. Ik verwacht dat ze het vestje gewoon samen hebben genaaid - ik weet niet precies welke steek ze hebben gebruikt, maar ik zou de steek gebruiken die ik het mooiste en beste vind. Je mag dat zelf bepalen.

29.07.2016 - 10:58