DROPS 99-21
Size: S/M – L – XL
Finished measurements at chest: 34 5/8”-37 ¾”-41”
Full length: 24”-26 ¾”-29½”

Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
350-400-500 g color no 6208, light gray-blue

DROPS crochet hook size 6 mm [J/10] – or the crochet hook size needed to obtain correct crochet gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet gauge: 3 rounds of the crochet square measures 6.5 cm [2½”] and 11 tr x 3 rounds of texture pattern = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]

Crochet info: Substitute first tr on each row/round with 4 ch. Substitute first sc on round with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in beginning of round.

Picot: 1 picot = 3 ch, 1 sl st in 3rd ch from crochet hook.

Texture pattern:
1st row: 1 sc in each tr.
2nd row: 1 tr in each sc.
1st and 2nd row = 1 pattern repeat of texture pattern.

Binding off tip (applies to neckline):
Bind off at beginning of row as follows: Crochet 3 sl st over 3 first sc.
Bind off at end of row as follows: Turn piece when 3 sc are left.

First crochet 2 squares that are put tog = bottom part of top. In Size S/M crochet to 7th round, inclusive. In Size L crochet to 8th round, inclusive. In Size XL crochet to 9th round, inclusive. Then crochet a border around the squares and at last crochet the top part of the top onto the 2 squares.

BOTTOM PART:
Crochet panel: Crochet 4 ch create a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
1st round: Read Crochet tip! Crochet 8 sc around ring.
2nd round: Crochet 3 tr in each sc = 24 tr.
3rd round: Crochet 1 tr, *3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr*, repeat from*-* and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in beginning of round = 12 tr.
4th round: Crochet 3 tr in first tr, *3 ch, skip 3 ch, 3 tr in next tr*, repeat from*-* and finish with 3 ch skip 1 tr and 1 sl st in beginning of round = 36 tr.
5th round: Crochet 1 tr in each tr and 3 tr in each ch loop = 72 tr. Square now measures 20 cm [8’’] in diameter.
6th round: Crochet 1 tr in first tr, *3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr*, repeat from*-* and finish with 3 ch, skip 1 tr and 1 sl st in beginning of round = 36 tr.
7th round: *1 tr and 3 ch in each of 8 first tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in same tr, (= edge), 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in beginning of round = 40 tr.
Finish size S/M here.
8th round: *1 tr and 3 ch in each of 8 first tr, 2 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 2 tr in next tr, (= edge), 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in beginning of round = 48 tr. Finish size L here.
9th round: *1 tr and 3 ch in each of 8 first tr , 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in next tr, 3 ch, 1 tr in next tr, 2 tr in next tr (= corner), 3 ch*, repeat from *-* 4 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in beginning of round = 56 tr.
Finish size XL here.
Last round (crochet to complete all sizes): 1 tr in each tr and 1 tr in each ch loop . Crochet each corner as follows: 2 tr in each of 1-2-3 first tr, 3-5-7 tr in ch loop, 2 tr in each of next 1-2-3 tr = 96-120-144 tr. Crochet 1 square more.

Picot edge: Crochet a picot edge on 2 sides opposite each other on each square – see figure 1. Begin mid corner.
Crochet as follows: 1 sc around first tr, *1 picot – see explanation above, skip 1 tr, 1 sc around next tr *.
Repeat from *-* 12-15-18 times in total = 12-15-18 picots.
Turn piece and crochet back as follows: Crochet sl st until 2nd ch on last picot, *6 ch, 1 sc around 2nd ch on next picot*, repeat from *-*. Cut and sew thread. Panel measures approx 39-43-47 cm [15 1/4”-17”-18½”] in diameter.

Crocheting together: Place squares together and crochet tog – see Figure 1. Crochet squares tog on both sides with picot edges – so a cylinder is formed. Crochet 1 sc in first loop on the one square, 2 ch, 1 sc in first loop on second square, *3 ch, 1 sc in next loop on the one square, 2 ch, 1 sc in next loop on second square* repeat from *-* until squares are crochet tog on side.

TOP PART: Crochet the top part now: Crochet around top edge as follows:
1st round: Crochet 1 tr in first tr, *3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr*, repeat from*-* and finish with 3 ch. Crochet as follows between squares: 1 tr, *3 ch, skip approx 1 cm [3/8’’], 1 tr *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, finish off with 3 ch = 34-40-46 tr with 3 ch between each.
2nd round: Crochet 1 sc in first tr, *1 picot, skip 3 ch, 1 sc in next tr * repeat from *-* on entire round = 34-40-46 picots.
3rd round: sl st to ch loop on first picot, 2 tr in 2nd ch in each picot, finish off with 1 sl st in first tr = 68-80-92 tr.
4th round: *1sc in first tr, 2 sc in next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first tr = 102-120-138 sc.
Split piece and crochet back and front pieces separately back and forth.

Front piece: = 51-60-69 dc. Place where 2 squares are crochet tog mid front and mid back on the top part. Middle of squares are placed on side of top part. Crochet next round from WS. Crochet tr in each of middle 41-48-55 sc (do not crochet over 5-6-7 sc on each side = armhole) = 41-48-55 tr. Now crochet texture pattern –see explanation above. Crochet 3-4-5 pattern repeats, then split piece.

Left front piece: On 1st row on 4th-5th-6th pattern repeat crochet sc but only over first 17-19-22 tr. Turn piece. Now bind off 3 tr for neckline towards mid front (i.e. in beginning of row of tr) – read binding off tip - 2 times in total = 11-13-16 tr/sc left on shoulder. Cut and sew thread after 7-8-9 pattern repeats.

Right front piece: On 1st row on 4th-5th-6th pattern repeat crochet sc but only over first 17-19-22 tr (crochet from middle towards sides.) Turn piece. Now bind off 3 tr for neckline towards mid front (i.e. in beginning of row with tr) – read binding off tip - 2 times in total = 11-13-16 tr/sc left on shoulder. Cut and sew thread after 7-8-9 pattern repeats.
Top part measures approx 21-24-27 cm [8 ¼”-9½”-10 5/8”].

Back piece: = 51-60-69 sc. Crochet 1 tr in each of middle 41-48-55 sc (do not crochet over 5-6-7 sc on each side = armhole) = 41-48-55 tr. Crochet 6-7-8 pattern repeats with texture pattern, now crochet 1 last pattern repeat over 11-13-16 sc/tr only on each side (do not crochet middle 19-22-23 sc/tr = neckline.) Cut and sew thread after 7-8-9 pattern repeats.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Crochet edges: Crochet around bottom edge of top as follows:
1st round: Crochet 1 tr in first tr, *2 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 tr in next tr*, repeat from*-* and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in first tr.
2nd round: 2 tr in first tr, *4 ch, 2 tr in same tr, 1 ch, 2 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* and finish with 4 ch, 2 tr in same tr, 1 ch and 1 sl st in first tr.
Crochet around neckline as follows: 1 sc , *4 ch, skip approx 2 cm [3/8’’], 1 sc*, repeat from *-* finish off with 4 ch and 1 sl st in first sc.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Alexis Mai wrote:

Hi I've under stood the pattern up til this point: "Split piece and crochet back and front pieces separately back and forth." I don't understand what I need to do.

01.06.2022 - 04:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Alexis, Instead of working in the round as you have done on the body, you are now working the front and back pieces separately, to make the armholes. Instead of continuing round, you turn and work back to the other side of the front/back piece, turn again and work back etc. Happy crocheting!

01.06.2022 - 06:46

country flag Robyn wrote:

How would I make this largeR? Chest size 46”?

29.04.2020 - 03:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Robyn, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request - you are welcome to contact the store where you bought the yarn or any crochet forum for any further individual assistance. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy crocheting!

29.04.2020 - 09:08

country flag Di wrote:

Thank you so much for providing a completely written pattern. I am self taught and 'cut my teeth' using a written pattern. I've tried to follow so many of your patterns but have never been successful where charts are concerned and usually the means I give up. My problem I know but I cannot seem to get my head round charts at all. So big thanks for this.

18.04.2019 - 12:42

country flag Sonia B. wrote:

Bonjour, dans cette section = BAS du DEBARDEUR MOTIF Monter 4 ml, former un rond avec 1 mc dans la 1ère ml. R 1 : lire astuces crochet. 8 ms dans le rond. Où se trouve "astuces crochet"? Et par où je commence l'ouvrage exactement? Comment réaliser l'échantillon (combien de mailles chaînettes) et quoi faire ensuite? J'ai un fil de coton pour crochet no 5 et je prends un crochet no 6. Merci.

25.05.2018 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sonia, il s'agit en fait ici de l'INFO CROCHET qui explique comment commencer le tour (= remplacer la 1ère ms du tour par 1 ml et terminer le tour par 1 mc). Pour l'échantillon, les 3 premiers tours du MOTIF doivent mesurer 6,5 cm ou bien vous pouvez crocheter un rectangle d'une quinzaine de brides et crocheter en POINT FANTAISIE sur 5/6 tours et mesurer si 11 DB x 3 tours font 10 x 10 cm. Ajustez la taille du crochet si nécessaire. Bon crochet!

28.05.2018 - 08:14

country flag Lynn wrote:

Which part of the pattern is to make the squares? Where do I start it?

11.02.2018 - 20:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, pattern for square you can find under the Bottom Part (crochet panel). You have to make it 2x. Happy crocheting!

11.02.2018 - 22:57

country flag Grace wrote:

I'm stuck on the last part of the Picot edge. I don't understand "Crochet sl st until 2nd ch on last picot, *6 ch, 1 sc around 2nd ch on next picot*, repeat from *-*. "

06.07.2017 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Grace, 2nd row should start in the middle of 1st picot from previous row, work sl st to the 2nd of the 1st picot, then *work 6 ch, then 1 sc around the 2nd chain of next picot (= in the middle of next picot)* and repeat from *-*. Happy crocheting!

06.07.2017 - 16:04

country flag Wendy wrote:

Hi. I'm a newbie at crocheting so I may be asking a silly question. For this pattern, concerning the square on the bottom, in the last row for the corners it says... 2 tr in each of 1-2-3 first tr, 3-5-7 tr in ch loop, 2 tr in each of next 1-2-3 tr = 96-120-144 tr. Does this mean 2 trebles in the first treble of the corner, 3, 5 or 7 trebles in the space and 2 trebles in the 2nd treble of the corner? Not sure what 1-2-3 mean?

13.03.2017 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Wendy, each number refer to the size,in 1st size you will crochet 2 tr in the next tr, in 2nd size, 2 Tr in each of the next 2 tr, and in larger size, 2 tr in each of the next 3 tr. Happy crocheting!

14.03.2017 - 09:37

Johng420 wrote:

Only wanna tell that this is very useful , Thanks for taking your time to write this. aeddeceddddc

26.08.2016 - 23:35

country flag Carrie wrote:

Vielen lieben Dank für die schnelle Hilfe. Nun hänge ich an der Abschluss Kante. 1Dstb 2lm 3Dstb überspringen 1Dstb. Das paßt irgendwie nicht. Habe ich da wieder einen Denkfehler.

24.05.2016 - 15:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carrie, damit der Rand nicht zu locker wird, werden 3 D-Stb übersprungen und darüber 2 Lm gemacht, dass sollte dann schon passen.

25.05.2016 - 19:27

country flag Carrie wrote:

Hallo, ich weiß nicht weiter. Ich bin jetzt an der Stelle wo die Träger anfangen. Bei mir das 6.Rapport. linkes Vorderteil, 22fm ist noch okay, dann verstehe ich die Anleitung nicht mehr. Arbeit wenden, 3Dstb total 2 mal? ? Vielleicht kann mir das jemand noch mal erklären. Jetzt bin ich schon so weit, und würde gerne das Top fertig stellen. Danke schön im voraus.

22.05.2016 - 20:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carrie, der ganze Satz lautet: für den Hals abk. (d.h. am Anfang einer R. mit D-Stb: 3 D-Stb total 2 Mal) und ist bei dieser älteren Anleitung vielleicht nicht so klar formuliert. Sie ketten in jeder R mit Doppelstäbchen für den Halsausschnitt ab. Es werden 2 x je 3 D-Stb abgekettet. Dann sind statt 17-19-22 D-Stb noch 11-13-16 D-Stb in der Reihe.

23.05.2016 - 19:51