DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 99-15
Size: S – M - L – XL – XXL
Materials: Drops Muskat from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 18, white

Drops Crochet Hook size 4 mm, or size needed to obtain the correct tension

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 17 tr x 10 rows using hook size 4 mm with Muskat = 10 x 10 cm
Crochet info: At the beg of each row replace the 1st tr with 3 ch. At the end of row crochet the last tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Decreasing tip (apply to armhole and neckline):
Dec as follows at the beg of row: replace 1 tr with 1 sl st.
Dec as follows at the end of row: Turn the piece when number of tr to be dec are left on row.

Front piece: Crochet 88-97-109-124-139 ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 4 mm. Crochet first row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from crochet hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 2 ch*, repeat from *-* = 58-64-72-82-92 tr, turn the piece.
Read all of the following section before continuing!
Crochet 1 tr in each tr from pervious row – read Crochet info.
Shaping: Insert 2 marking threads MT 15-18-21-25-29 tr in from each side = 28-28-30-32-34 tr between each MT. On next row inc to shape the top by crocheting 2 tr in each of the 2 tr with MT. Repeat the inc on every 2-2-2-3-3 rows a total of 4-4-4-3-3 times – inc inside each MT so that number of sts between the MT increases. At the same time when piece measures 6 cm inc 1 tr each side (crochet 2 tr in the penultimate tr). After all inc are complete = 68-74-82-90-100 tr. When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20 cm cast off for armhole each side – see Casting off tip: 4 tr 1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 tr 1-2-3-4-4 times and 1 tr 1-1-1-2-2 times = 54-56-60-62-64 tr. When piece measures 26-27-28-29-30 cm crochet 1 row on 19-20-21-22-23 tr each side only (do not crochet on the middle 16-16-18-18-18 tr = neckline). Now cast off each side towards neckline – see Casting off tip: 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 3 times = 12-13-14-15-16 tr left on each shoulder. Cut the thread when piece measures 43-45-47-49-51 cm.

Back piece: Crochet like front piece = 58-64-72-82-92 sts after first row. NB! No shaping in the middle of back piece. On second row inc 1 tr each side (crochet 2 tr in the penultimate tr) and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 5-5-5-4-4 times = 68-74-82-90-100 tr. When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20 cm cast off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 54-56-60-62-64 tr. When piece measures 31-33-35-37-39 cm crochet 1 row on 13-14-15-16-17 tr each side only (do not crochet on the middle 28-28-30-30-30 tr = neckline). Cast off 1 tr each side towards neckline – see Casting off tip =12-13-14-15-16 tr left on each shoulder. Cut the thread when piece measures 43-45-47-49-51 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams in the outer loops with neat sts. Sew side seams in the same way.

Mussel shaped border: Crochet a border along bottom edge with crochet hook size 4 mm as follows:
Round 1: crochet 120-130-150-170-190 dc round bottom edge of front and back piece, i.e. 1 dc in each tr, but crochet 2 dc in 4-2-6-6-6 tr evenly distributed. Finish round with a sl st in first dc from beg of round.
Round 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in first dc, *5 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, 7 ch, skip 5 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* a total of 12-13-15-17-19 times, but replace the last dc with a sl st in the first dc from beg of round (= 12-13-15-17-19 large ch-loops + 12-13-15-17-19 small ch-loops).
Round 3: Crochet sl sts to the middle of the first small ch-loop, 1 dc in the same small ch-loop, *10 tr in next ch-loop (large ch-loop), 1 dc in next ch-loop (small ch-loop)*, repeat from *-* a total of 11-12-14-16-18 times and finish with 10 tr in the last ch-loop and a sl st in the first dc from beg of round.
Round 4: 1 sl st in between the first 2 tr in the tr-group, 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), *1 tr in between the next 2 tr in the tr-group, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times (= 9 tr in the tr group). Repeat in all the tr-groups on row and finish with a sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Round 5: 1 picot = 3 ch, 1 sl st in 3rd ch from crochet hook. *1 dc in first ch, 1 dc in next ch, (1 picot, 1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next ch), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, 1 dc in between tr-groups*, repeat from *-* a total of 12-13-15-17-19 times and finish with a sl st in first dc from beg of round.

Crochet a similar border in the 10th row from bottom edge (after all inc. are completed). Crochet the same way as bottom edge. Beg with Round 2 (don’t crochet Round 1). Because of the increased no of tr the number of repeats are as follows:
Round 2: repeat from *-* a total of 14-15-17-18-20 times (= 14-15-17-18-20 large ch-loops + 14-15-17-18-20 small ch-loops. NB! No of tr on top do not fit the border pattern. Compensate for this by skipping 4 tr instead of 5 tr 4-2-6-0-0 times evenly distributed on round.
Round 3: Repeat from *-* a total of 13-14-16-17-19 times.
Round 4: Same as border along bottom edge.
Round 5: Repeat from *-* a total of 14-15-17-18-20 times.
Crochet border: Crochet a border round armholes and neckline as follows: 1 dc in the first tr, 1 dc in next tr, *1 picot, 1 dc in next tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish round with a sl st in first dc.



Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Veerle wrote:

Goedemorgen Ik begrijp het afkatten voor de armsgaten niet goed. Kan u het me a.u.b. iets meer uitleggen? Alvast super bedankt! Mvg

14.03.2024 - 07:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Veerle,

Je kant eerst 4 steken af en dit doe je 1-1-1-1-2 keer, dus als je de grootste maat maakt, kant je 4 steken af op de ene toer en dan nog 4 steken op de volgende toer. Bij alle andere maten kant je 1 keer 4 steken af. Vervolgens kant je 2 steken af en dit doe je 1-2-3-4-4 keer. Tot slot kant je nog eens 1-1-1-2-2 keer 1 steek af. Bovenaan staat hoe je moet minderen aan het begin of einde van de toer. Dit kun je ook toepassen voor de armsgaten.

20.03.2024 - 12:57

country flag Sara Norinder wrote:

Hej! Jag undrar hur jag gör med halslinningen. Virkar jag det ena axelbandet först och sen den andra sidan? Det står att när arbetet mäter 26 sm ska jag virka 19 st och hoppa över 16 st. Kan man göra det på nåt annat sätt än att virka ena bandet först och sen andra? Hoppas ni förstår min fråga!

05.07.2023 - 22:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sara, ja du virkar det enea axelbandet först og sen den andra :)

07.07.2023 - 10:19

country flag Fitoussi wrote:

Bonjour, il y a un problème au début du devant, j'ai fait l'échantillon et niveau taille tout va bien niveau dimension, hors avec la chaînette de 88 ml et le 2eme rang de deux brides avec espacement d'un maille en l'air entre chaque groupe, pour arriver à 58 mailles, et bien c'est trop grand, 40cm au lieu de 34 d'après vos mesures sur votre diagramme ! Alors y a un bug que faire ? Merci pour votre réponse.

28.03.2023 - 14:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fitoussi, si votre échantillon est juste, vous devriez avoir alors les bonnes mesures: comme la chaînette de base est souvent bien trop serrée, on crochète ici plus de mailles en l'air (88) que l'on a besoin de mailles (58) et on va crocheter ainsi: 1 b dans la 4ème ml à partir du crochet (= 2 b/5 ml), *sautez 1 ml, 1 b dans les 2 m suiv*, crochetez 28 fois de *-* (= 28x2 b = 56 b / 28x3 ml= 84 ml), vous avez ainsi bien: 2+56= 58 b (= 34 cm) crochetées sur les 4+84=88 ml. Si vos mailles en l'air sont suffisamment larges, vous pouvez monter juste le nombre dont vous avez besoin. Bon crochet!

28.03.2023 - 16:01

country flag Lizel Meyer wrote:

I am not sure of the sizes S, M, L etc. What do they represent in cm e.g. 34 cm or 36 cm?

05.01.2023 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Meyer, to find the appropriate size, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to those in the chart - read more here. Happy crocheting!

05.01.2023 - 15:19

country flag Ellise wrote:

When you get to the point in the pattern where it talks about inc to shape the top, what dose it mean crochet 2dc in each of the 2 dcs in between MT? What do you do out the MT?

02.08.2022 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellise, you have inserted 2 MT (markers) at 15-29 dc from each side. To increase in the stitches between both MT, you need to increase in the stitch after the first MT and the stitch before the 2nd MT. Happy crocheting!

07.08.2022 - 23:38

country flag Ellise wrote:

What dose *1 double crochet in each of the next 2 chain* mean? Thank you!

02.08.2022 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellise, after you have worked 1 dc in the 4th chain from hook, you will work in double crochet skipping every 3rd chain, ie repeat: *skip 1 chain stitch, crochet 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 chains* (=there are now 2 double crochets worked over 3 chains), repeat from *-* to the end of the row. Happy crocheting!

02.08.2022 - 17:25

country flag Hélène Hoeben wrote:

Hallo, Klopt het dat het voorpand veel breder wordt door de meerderingen? Het voorpand wordt wel erg breed vind ik. bij een hoogte van 16 cm is de breedt 42 cm. Klopt dat? Ik haak maat S.

17.06.2022 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hélène,

Bij een hoogte van 16 cm zou het voorpand ongeveer 40 cm breed moeten zijn. Klopt de stekenverhouding en is de onderkant 34 cm breed? Misschien ben je in de loop van de tijd losser gaan haken?

19.06.2022 - 16:37

country flag Melinda wrote:

Questo modello è spiegato malissimo. Non si capisce da dove si inizia il lavoro. Non si capisce a che altezza vanno inseriti i segni per iniziare lo scollo. È un top down? È un botton up? Se è botton up, perché si iniziano le diminuzioni dello scollo dal secondo giro? Andrebbe proprio rivista la traduzione. Buona serata.

29.08.2021 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Melinda, il top è lavorato dal basso verso l'alto in 2 parti che poi vengono cucite e si lavorano i bordi finali. Buon lavoro!

29.08.2021 - 22:35

country flag Geertje wrote:

"Haak bij een hoogte van 26-27-28-29-30 cm 1 toer op de 19-20-21-22-23 stk aan weerskanten (d.w.z. haak niet op de middelste 16-16-18-18-18 stk = hals). Kant vervolgens af aan weerskanten van de hals – zie de tip voor het afkanten: 2 x 2 stk en 3 x 1 stk = 12-13-14-15-16 stk voor elke schouder." Moet ik bij dit stuk steeds halve vasten in het middenstuk haken??

13.09.2020 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Geertje,

Nee, je haakt niet over het middelste gedeelte, dus je haakt eerst de rechterkant heen en weer waarbij je aan de halskant steken afkant zoals aangegeven. Als je klaar bent met de rechterkant, hecht je de draad aan om de linkerkant te haken.

18.09.2020 - 12:35

country flag Belva wrote:

This was good!!

10.09.2020 - 18:35