DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
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DROPS 100-3
Size: S – M – L – XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-92-100-110-126 cm / 34"-36 1/4"-39½"-43½"-49½"
Full length: 68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26 3/4"-27½"-28½"-29"-30"

Materials: Drops Vivaldi from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes colour no. 15, pink
100 g for all sizes colour no. 20, rasberry
50 g for all sizes colour no. 03, red
50 g for all sizes colour no. 16, orange

Or use:
Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes colour no. 18, cerise
100 g for all sizes colour no. 08, heather
50 g for all sizes colour no. 07, red
50 g for all sizes colour no. 06, coral

and use: Drops Alpaca from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-150 g colour no. 3620, red
100-100-100-100-150 g colour no. 2921, pink
50-50-50-100-100 g colour no. 2915, orange

DROPS double pointed needles size 10 mm / US 15 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.
DROPS crochet hook size 6 mm / J/10.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 11 sts x 13 row on needles size 10 mm / US 15 in stockinette sts with 2 threads of Vivaldi and 1 thread of Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.


Stripes: The whole of the garment is knitted with 1 thread of Alpaca and 2 threads of Vivaldi/Brushed Alpaca Silk = 3 threads in total.
Colour 1: Vivaldi 03 + 15 / Brushed Alpaca Silk 07 + 18 and Alpaca 3620
Colour 2: Vivaldi 15 + 20 / Brushed Alpaca Silk 18 + 08 and Alpaca 3620
Colour 3: Vivaldi 15 + 20 / Brushed Alpaca Silk 18 + 08 and Alpaca 2921
Colour 4: Vivaldi 20 + 16 / Brushed Alpaca Silk 08 + 06 and Alpaca 2921
Colour 5: Vivaldi 20 + 16 / Brushed Alpaca Silk 08 + 06 and Alpaca 2915

Change colour when the work measures:
Back and front piece:
Cast on with colour no. 1
14-15-15-15-16 cm / 5½"-6"-6"-6"-6 1/4": Color no. 2
28-30-30-31-32 cm / 11"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12½": Color no. 3
42-44-45-47-49 cm / 16½"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4": Color no. 4
56-57-60-61-62 cm / 22"-22½"-23 5/8"-24"-24 3/8": Color no. 5

Sleeve:
Cast on with colour no. 1
12 cm / 4 3/4"'': Color no. 2
24 cm / 9½'': Color no. 3
36 cm / 14 1/4"'': Color no. 4
47 cm / 18½'': Color no. 5
Garter sts: K on all rows.

Decreasing tips (back and front piece):
All dec. are done from the RS.
Dec. as follows after 2 sts of garter sts: Slip a st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec. as follows before 2 sts of garter sts: K2 tog.

Back piece:
Cast on 59-63-67-73-81 sts on needle size 10 mm / US 15 with color 1 – see explanation above. Knit 4 rows of garter sts. Continue in stockinette sts with 2 sts of garter sts at each side but on the 1st row adjust the number of sts to 51-55-59-65-73 sts.
At the same time knit in stripes – see explanation above.
When the piece measures 20 and 30 cm / 8" and 11 3/4" dec. 1 st each side – read dec. tips = 47-51-55-61-69 sts.
When the piece measures 49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-20½"-21" work in stockinette sts over all sts, at the same time bind off for the arm holes each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 2-3-1-2-2 times = 39-41-43-43-45 sts.
When the piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½"-28 3/8"-29 1/8" bind off the mid 21-21-23-23-25 sts for the neck and work each side separately.
On the following row continue to cast 1 st at neck side = 8-9-9-9-9 sts left for shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26 3/4"-27½"-28½"-29"-30".

Front piece:
Cast on and knit as back piece until the piece measures 42-44-45-47-49 cm / 16½"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4" = 47-51-55-61-69 sts.
Work the next 4 rows as follows: 2 sts of garter sts, 17-19-21-24-28 sts of stockinette sts, 9 sts of garter sts, 17-19-21-24-28 sts of stockinette sts, 2 sts of garter sts.
On the following row bind off the middle st for the neck slit. Put the 23-25-27-30-34 sts from 1 side on a thread or stitch holder and finish each side individually.

Side-1:
Work in stockinette sts with 4 sts of garter sts at the mid front and continue with 2 sts of garter sts at the side.
When the piece measures 49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20"-20½"-21" continue to knit the outer most 2 sts each side in stockinette sts, at the same time bind off for the armhole as done for the back piece.
At the same time when the piece measures 54-56-57-59-61 cm / 21 1/4"-22"-22½"-23 1/4"-24" put 6 sts towards the mid front on a stitch holder or a thread.
Then bind off 1 sts for the neck shape on every other row a total of 5-5-6-6-7 times = 8-9-9-9-9 sts left for the shoulder.
Bind off when the piece measures 68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26 3/4"-27½"-28½"-29"-30".

Side-2:
Put the sts from the stitch holder back on the needle and knit as side-1. Note: The 1st row begins at the mid front, to avoid a “nick” pick up 1 st (the one which was bound off at the mid front). Knit this st tog. with the 1st st on row.

Sleeve:
Cast on 27-29-31-32-33 sts on needle size 10 mm / US 15 with color 1 – see explanation above. Knit 4 rows of garter sts. Continue in stockinette sts, at the same time on the 1st row adjust the number of sts to 24-26-28-29-30.
Work in stripes – see explanation above.
When the piece measures 10 cm / 4'' inc. 1 st each side, repeat on every 6-6-5.5-5-4 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 1/4"-2"-1½", a total of 7-7-7-8-9 times = 38-40-42-45-48 sts.
When the piece measures 48-48-47-47-46 cm / 19"-19"-18½"-18½"-18" bind off for the sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 st 1-1-1-1-2 times. Continue to bind off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 55-56-56-57-57 cm / 21½"-22"-22"-22½"-22½", then bind off 3 sts each side 1 time. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures approx. 56-57-57-58-58 cm / 22"-22½"-22½"-22 3/4"-22 3/4".

Assembly:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the sleeve and the side seams in the outer part of the outer st, leave the bottom 15 cm / 6'' each side open for a slit.

Neck edge:
Pick up approx. 62-72 sts on needle size 10 mm / US 15 (incl. the sts on the stitch holder or thread) around all of the neckline with color 5.
Work 4 rows of garter sts, bind off.

Neck lacing:
Crochet a ch-string approx. 110 – 150 cm / 44"-60" long with hook size 6 mm / J/10 in color 5. Pull the string through - up and down at the neck line underneath the garter sts.
Make a tassel for each end of the string as follows: Cut a total of 24 threads with color 5 each thread approx. 20 cm / 8'' long. Put the threads tog. and bend them double. Sew the string tight to the tassel where it bends and twist 1 of the threads around the top of the tassel to keep it tog. Cut and sew the thread tight.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Cri wrote:

Hello, I don't understand how to do the arm holes. What does it mean: at the same time cast off for the arm holes each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 2-3-1-2-2 times = 39-41-43-43-45 sts.? Thank you

29.11.2022 - 00:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cri, you will cast off at the beg of each row on each side 3 sts at the beg of next 0-0-2-2-4 rows (not in size S + M - both from RS and from WS), then cast off 2 sts at the beg of next 2-2-2-4-4 rows (both from RS and from WS), then 1 stitch at the beg of next 4-6-2-4-4 rows (both from RS and from WS). Happy knitting!

29.11.2022 - 10:14

country flag Annika wrote:

Denne kunne kanskje strikkes i det nye Wish-garnet? Jeg har litt problemer med å regne ut omtrentlig mengde, da, noen tips fra dere med bedre oversikt?

24.01.2021 - 12:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annika. Det er ikke samme strikkefasthet, så du må teste ut at du får samme strikkefasthet som er oppgitt i oppskriften. Med 3 tråder som det er oppgitt i oppskriften blir det litt tykkere enn 1 tråd Wish. Ang garnmengde er det litt vanskelig ettersom den er melert, men om du skal strikke den ensfarget med 1 tråd Wish trenger du ca 850 meter = ca 9 nøster med Wish. God Fornøyelse!

27.01.2021 - 15:51

country flag Birgit Schiereck-Bredenkötter wrote:

Hallo, Ich würde gerne dieses Modell stricken, finde aber nirgendwo die entsprechende Wolle in den angegebenen Fragen, insbesondere bei Vivaldi. MfG Birgit Schiereck-Bredenkötter

09.04.2015 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Vivaldi wird leider aus dem Programm genommen und ist nur noch vereinzelt erhältlich. Sie können oben neben dem Foto unter "Garnalternativen" sehen, welche Ersatzgarne möglich sind. Insgesondere Brushed Alpaca Silk bietet sich an, da es eine ähnliche Flauschigkeit hat. Beachten Sie, dass Sie bei Ersatzgarnen die Menge anhand der Lauflänge neu ausrechnen müssen. Und natürlich muss die Maschenprobe stimmen. :-)

11.04.2015 - 08:17

country flag Joan Andrade wrote:

Hi. I have completed the front and back of this design but neither i or my knitting group can't understand the sleeves pattern. Please help thanks joan

06.03.2015 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Andrale, can you please tell us more, ie which part of the sleeve you don't understand ? Thank you. Happy knitting!

06.03.2015 - 15:55

country flag Svenja wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, ich habe nochmal eine Frage zum Rückenteil... ich bin jetzt beim Abketten der Ärmellöcher angelangt, aber ich verstehe nicht, wie genau das gemeit ist mit dem abketten.. Können Sie mir das bitte noch einmal genauer erklären? Danke schonmal.

16.02.2015 - 22:22

DROPS Design answered:

Sie ketten die M immer am Anfang einer R ab, also an der rechten Seite der Arbeit am Anfang der Hin-R und an der linken Seite am Anfang der Rück-R. So ergibt sich auf beiden Seiten, dass Sie in jeder 2. R abketten. Sie ketten in Gr. M an beiden Seiten (= pro Armausschnitt) je 1 x 2 M ab (= 2 M am Anfang der Hin-R, 2 M am Anfang der Rück-R), dann je 3 x 1 M (= 1 M am Anf. der Hin-R, 1 M am Anf. der Rück-R, 1 M am Anf. der Hin-R, 1 M am Anf. der Rück-R, 1 M am Anf. der Hin-R, 1 M am Anf. der Rück-R).

17.02.2015 - 10:23

country flag Svenja wrote:

Guten Tag liebes Drops Team, Ich stecke schon am Anfang der Anleitung fest, da wo es heißt, dass man jetzt galtt mit 2 M. auf beiden Seiten, bei der 1.R. die Maschenanzahl auf 55 M. (für Größe M) anpassen soll. Können Sie mir das vielleicht noch ein wenig genauer erklären was ich genau da tun soll?! Vielen Dank schonmal im voraus!

15.02.2015 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Svenja, die Anleitung wurde sprachlich etwas überarbeitet, vielleicht kommen Sie nun besser zurecht. Anpassen der M-Zahl heißt, dass Sie, je nach Größe, Maschen zunehmen oder abnehmen müssen, in Ihrem Fall (Größe M) nehmen Sie also 8 M gleichmäßig verteilt ab (damit Sie von 63 M auf 55 M kommen). Falls weiter etwas unklar ist, melden Sie sich gerne wieder.

15.02.2015 - 22:05

country flag Tina wrote:

Just finished this - used beige, off-white and light pink instead as some colours in the photo no longer available. Fits perfectly and is very light and cosy. Thanks again for a beautiful garment. I love your designs and have immediately started the next "Project".

05.12.2013 - 22:47

Marijke De Ruiter wrote:

Goedemiddag vanuit Valencia, als ik één dikte wol neem voor breinaald 10 en de 5 verschillende kleuren, hoeveel bollen wol heb ik dan nodig en van wat voor gewicht? Alvast bedankt voor het antwoord. Groetjes van Marijke Breien is en blijft altijd leuk, als ik niks te breien heb voel ik me ontevreden. Iets moet er op de pennen staan. De patronen van jullie pagina zijn echt super, ik heb er al meerdere gebruikt. Bedankt ook hiervoor :)

22.04.2013 - 18:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marijke. Je kan het berekenen als volgt: Brei je maat M gebruik je 250 gr Alpaca (Ik bereken niet de Vivaldi omdat deze trui met een dubbele draad wordt gebreid). 5 bollen Alpaca looplengte 167 m = 835. Deel dit door de looplengte van je gekozen garen en je hebt hoeveel bollen je nodig hebt.

22.04.2013 - 21:50

country flag Zvikmed wrote:

Çàáàâíûé ó âàñ ñàéò....ïîçíàâàòåëüíî

22.12.2008 - 18:09

country flag Impectorepe wrote:

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19.10.2008 - 20:20