DROPS Highlander
DROPS Highlander
90% Wool, 10% Nylon
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
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DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
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DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-375
Size: S (M) L (XL) XXL

Measures:
Chest width: 92 (100) 108 (118) 126 cm.
Whole length: 76 (78) 80 (82) 84 cm.

Materials: DROPS Highlander, from Garnstudio
450 (450) 500 (550) 650 g beige mix (no 12)

and use: DROPS Vivaldi, from Garnstudio
150 (150) 150 (200) 200 g red (nr 03)

and use: DROPS Vienna, from Garnstudio
50 g maroon (nr 10)

Needles size 7 mm and 8 mm.

Buttons: 5 (5) 6 (6) 6 pcs burned wood buttons (DROPS no 512)

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Highlander
DROPS Highlander
90% Wool, 10% Nylon
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Vienna
DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Tension: 10 sts x 16 rows on needle size 8 mm with 1 thread Highlander + 1 thread Vivaldi and stocking stitches = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needles): 1st row: Knit, 2nd row: Knit.

Decreasing tip (applies to neck line): All dec are made from RS! Dec within 5 sts of front band + the inc sts for collar.
Dec like this before the sts in garter sts: K2 tog.
Dec like this after the sts in garter sts: Slip next st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Back piece: Cast on 50 (54) 58 (63) 67 sts on needle size 7 mm with 1 thread Highlander + 1 thread Vivaldi and work 4 rows in garter sts. Change to needles size 8 mm and continue with stocking sts and 3 sts in garter sts in each side (= split). Remember to check your knitting tension! When piece measures 15 cm splits stops and cast on 1 new st each side (= edge st to sew in afterwards) = 52 (56) 60 (65) 69 sts. Continue with stocking sts over all sts.
When piece measures 20 cm and then 38 cm dec 1 st each side = 48 (52) 56 (61) 65 sts.
When piece measures 56 (57) 58 (59) 60 cm dec for armholes each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0 (0) 1 (2) 2 times and 1 st 2 (3) 3 (3) 4 times = 38 (40) 40 (41) 43 sts.
When piece measures 74 (76) 78 (80) 82 cm cast off center 8 (8) 8 (9) 9 sts for neck. On next row cast off additional 1 st towards neck = 14 (15) 15 (15) 16 sts rem on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 76 (78) 80 (82) 84 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on 30 (32) 34 (37) 39 sts (incl 5 sts as front band) on needle size 7 mm with 1 thread Highlander + 1 thread Vivaldi. Work 4 rows in garter sts - NOTE: First st towards mid front slips in beg of every row until finished measure, in the end of row knit this st. Change to needle size 8 mm and work stocking st with 5 edge sts in garter st towards mid front and 3 sts in garter st in side (= split). When piece measures 15 cm split stops and cast on 1 new st in side (= edge st to sew in afterwards) = 31 (33) 35 (38) 40 sts. Continue in stocking st and front band in garter st. When piece measures 20 cm and then 38 cm dec in side as on back piece = 29 (31) 33 (36) 38 sts.

Read whole following section before you knit!

Armhole: When piece measures 56 (57) 58 (59) 60 cm dec for armhole in side as on back piece.

Collar: At the same time cast on 12 new sts towards mid front to collar. Now keep slipping the first st on row and work following 16 sts in garter st (the other sts in stocking st).

Neckline: At the same time when piece measures 58 (59) 60 (61) 62 cm dec 1 st towards neck line on every other row: 8 (8) 8 (9) 9 times and on every 4th row: 2 times - read Dec.tip.
After all dec for armhole and neck there are 26 (27 (27 (27) 28 sts remaining on needle.
Continue until piece measures 76 (78) 80 (82) 84 cm. Now cast off 14 (15) 15 (15) 16 sts on shoulder = 12 collar sts in garter st remaining on needle.

Collar: Continue to work in garter st over the collar as follows: * 2 rows garter st over all sts, 2 rows garter st over only the outermost 8 sts towards mid front *, repeat *-* until collar measures approx 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 cm farthest in (approx 10 (10) 10 (12) 12 cm farthest out).
Put sts on a thread or stitch holder.

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left, but cast off for armhole and neck in opposite side. Dec for button holes along front band. 1 button hole = knit 3rd and 4th sts from mid front tog, YO. On next row K yo twisted, so that the hole doesn’t get too big.
Make button holes when piece measures:
Size S: 20, 29, 38, 47, 56 cm,
Size M: 20, 30, 39, 48, 57 cm,
Size L: 20, 28, 35, 43, 51, 58 cm,
Size XL: 20, 28, 35, 43, 51, 59 cm,
Size XXL: 20, 28, 36, 44, 52, 60 cm.

Sleeves: Cast on 26 (28) 30 (30) 32 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 7 mm with 1 thread Highlander + 1 thread Vivaldi and work garter st for 14 cm. Change to needle size 8 mm and continue in stocking st. At the same time after garter st inc 1 st each side on every 6½ (6) 5 (4) 4 cm a total of 6 (6) 7 (8) 8 times = 38 (40) 44 (46) 48 sts.
When sleeve measures 49 (48) 47 (45) 44 cm cast off for top shaping in each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 (3) 4 (5) 6 times, then cast off 2 sts each side until piece measures 56 cm, at last cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side.
Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx 57 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back with small stitches and sew on the collar towards neck line back. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve- and side seams in one within 1 edge sts down to split. Sew in the buttons.

Belt: Cast on 5 sts on needle size 7 mm with 1 thread Highlander + 1 thread Vivaldi and work garter st until belt measures approx 120-150 cm, cast off.

Embroidery: Sew stitches on cuffs between garter st and stocking st and along the collar with Vienna as follows: Cuff: Sew with double thread over 6 rows in garter st in height and 2 sts in width.

Collar: Start like this to avoid to fasten threads mid front: start at one side in front of long side on the collar. Pull 1 thread Vienna through the collar in outermost garter st row, 3 sts from edge, make the thread double (= 2 threads). Then sew over 4 garter st rows in height and 3 sts in width to mid back in neck and then down along seam mid back. Repeat at the other side of the collar (there will be cross stitches mid back).



HAT

Size: S/M (M/L)

Materials: DROPS Snow, from Garnstudio
100 g brown (nr 03)

and use: DROPS Vienna, from Garnstudio
50 g maroon (nr 10)

Needle size 10 mm.

Tension: 8½ sts x 11 rows on needle size 10 mm with 1 thread Snow + 1 thread Vienna and stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Hat: Cast on 42 (45) sts on needle size 10 mm with 1 thread of each quality.
K1 row from WS, continue in stocking st. When piece measures 12 cm (adjust so that next row works from RS) place 6 (5) marking threads as follows: first marking thread after 1 st, place the following with 7 (9) sts between each st, after last marking thread there are 6 (8) sts. On next row K2 tog on left side of all marking threads, repeat dec on every other row a total of 6 (8) times = 6 (5) sts remaining on needle. Cut the thread and pull through the remaining sts, pull tog and fasten. Whole hat measures approx 22 (26) cm up to the top. Sew hat tog, sew in the outermost stitch loops so that seam doesn’t get bulky.


SCARF

Measure: approx 39 cm x 2 meter

Materials: DROPS Vienna, from Garnstudio
150 g maroon (nr 10)

Needle size 10 mm.

Tension: 10 sts x 14 rows on needle size 10 mm and rib = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K3, P3 *, repeat *-*.

Scarf: Cast on 39 sts loosely on needle size 10 mm. Work in rib with 3 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures approx 2 meter, cast off in rib.


Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (1)

country flag Doris wrote:

Wieso wird so eine Uralt-Anleitung neu eingestellt? Die Wolle ist doch schon längst ausgelaufen (Highländer, Vivaldi und Vienna)? Bitte lieber weitere Modelle der neuen Frühjahr-Sommer-Kollektion veröffentlichen.

01.04.2021 - 08:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, wir bemühen uns, alle bislang noch nicht übersetzten Anleitungen nach und nach zur Verfügung zu stellen - auch die alten! Dank unserer Garngruppen lassen sich Garnalternativen ja auch leicht für die nicht mehr verfügbaren Garne finden. Mehr Modelle der aktuellen Kollektion kommen natürlich auch weiterhin - ganz unabhängig von älteren Anleitungen.

04.04.2021 - 23:48