DROPS 81-28
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-96-106-114-124 cm [33 7/8" - 37.75" - 41.75" - 44 7/8" - 48 7/8"]
Waist: 68-78-88-98-108 cm [26.75" - 30.75" - 34 5/8" - 38 5/8" - 42.5"]
Hem: 76-86-96-106-116 cm [29 7/8" - 33 7/8" - 37.75" - 41.75" - 45 5/8"]

Materials: Garnstudio SILKE-TWEED
52% silk, 48% lambswool, 50 g./200 m./218 yards
200-200-250-250-250 gr nr 10, granite

and use: Garnstudio COTTON-VISCOSE,
54% Egyptian cotton, 46% viscose, 50 g./110 m./120 yards
300-350-400-400-450 gr nr 18, pearl grey

DROPS 5.5 mm [US 9] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows with 1 strand of each yarn (2 strands) in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.
Note: The row gauge must be accurate in order for the pattern to work out.

Increasing tips (for fronts): All increases are made on right side rows. Inc 1 st inside 3 edge sts knit in garter st by making a yo, on the next row twist and P the yo so that there will not be a hole.
Decreasing tips (for fronts): All decs are made on right side rows. Dec 1 st inside of 3 edge sts knit in garter st as follows:
After 3 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso. Before 3 edge sts: K 2 tog.

Measuring-tips: Make all measurements when piece is lying flat.

Back: Cast on 63-71-79-87-95 sts with 1 strand of each yarn (2 strands). Knit 4 rows garter st, then change to stockinette st. When the piece measures 5, 7 and 9 cm dec 1 st at each side = 57-65-73-81-89 sts. When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side every 2-2-2-2.5-2.5 cm a total of 7-7-7-6-6 times = 71-79-87-93-101 sts.
When the piece measures 27-28-29-30-31 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 st 1-2-3-3-4 times = 59-61-63-65-67 sts. When the piece measures 43-45-47-49-51 cm knit 4 rows garter st over the center 23 sts (the remaining sts in stockinette st as before). Then bind off the center 17 sts for the neck = 21-22-23-24-25 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue with stockinette st and 3 sts in garter st at neck edges to finished measurements. Bind off when the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54 cm.

Right front: Read the entire instructions and the tips above before knitting. All instructions relating to right edge and left edge of the piece are as seen from the right side of the work.
Cast on 22-24-26-28-30 sts with 1 strand of each yarn (2 strands). Knit 4 rows garter st, then knit stockinette st, keeping 3 sts in garter st at the left edge of the piece (side-1) = this is the center front/lower edge.
After the 2nd row of garter st, begin cast on for the side edge of the sweater at the right edge of the piece (side-2) every other row: 1 st 5-6-7-8-9 times, 2 sts 4 times, 3 sts 2 times and then 4 sts 1 time = 45-48-51-54-57 sts.
The piece measures approx. 12-13-14-15-16 cm. Continue in stockinette st, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each edge – and dec 1 st at side-2 (see Decreasing tips): every 4th row 6-7-11-12-13 times and then every 6th row 4-4-2-2-2 times = 35-37-38-40-42 sts. The piece measures approx. 36-39-42-45-48 cm. Now inc 1 st at side-2 (see Increasing tips): every 4th row 6-5-4-3-1 times and then every other row 4-6-9-11-15 times.
At the same time, when front piece measures 40-44-48-52-56 cm (from cast on edge), bind off on side-1 on every other row: 1 st 7 times (decrease at the edge, after the 3 garter sts have been bind off, knit stockinette stitch over all sts).
The piece measures approx. 47-51-55-59-63 cm. On the next row bind off 8-10-13-16-18 sts at side-1 for armhole. Then dec 1 st at armhole 20-20-20-20-21 times as follows: dec every row for 3 rows and then knit 1 row without dec.
After last inc on side-2 the piece measures approx. 51-54-58-61-65 cm from cast-on edge. Now dec 1 st from edge of side-2 every other row until all sts are bound off. The piece measures approx. 60-64-68-72-76 cm from cast-on edge to shoulder.

Left front: Cast on and knit the same as the right, reversing all shaping.

Sleeve: Cast on 36-38-40-42-42 sts with 1 strand of each yarn (2 strands). Knit 4 rows garter st, then continue as follows (first row = right side): K 1 row, * P 3 rows, K 3 rows *, repeat from * - * until the piece measures 10 cm, then knit stockinette st to finished measurements.
When the piece measures 13 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3.5-3-3-2.5-2 cm a total of 10-11-11-12-14 times = 56-60-62-66-70 sts.
When sleeve measures 48-47-45-44-42 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 0-1-3-4-6 times and then 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 55 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 56 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Lay right front over left and sew side seams (see dotted lines on diagram).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (50)

country flag Veronika Rademacher wrote:

Hallo, wie nehme ich beim Vorderteil nach den 3 re. krausmaschen 2, 3 und 4 Maschen zu? Bei 1 M zunehmen mache ich einen Umschlag , aber wie mache ich es bei mehr Maschen? Danke Veronika

06.01.2024 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Veronika, in diesem Video zeigen wir, wie man neuen Maschen an der Seiten zunimmt bzw anschlägt, beim rechten Vorderteil werden diese Maschen am Ende einer Rück-Reihe angeschlagen, und bei der nächsten Reihe glatt rechts gestrickt, die 3 Randmaschen bei dieser Seite werden erst ab 12-13-14-15-16 cm krausrechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.01.2024 - 10:13

country flag Corry Veerman wrote:

Ik wil patroon 'sea crossing' breien met Drops Alpaca Mix 7815. Het oorspronkelijke garen is er niet meer. Hoeveel bollen heb ik nodig voor een damesmaat 40?

29.11.2023 - 14:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Corry,

Met behulp van de garenvervanger (zie link onderaan de materialenlijst bij het patroon) kun je berekenen hoeveel je nodig hebt als je een vervangend garen wilt gebruiken. Als je de benodigde hoeveelheid van het oorspronkelijke garen invult komt er een lijst met alternatieven tevoorschijn met de hoeveelheden erbij.

29.11.2023 - 19:18

country flag Guadalupe Julieta Garcia Parra wrote:

Me disculpo porque hice una pregunta sin leer todo y ver la imagen. Ya comprendí la duda que tenía de los aumentos en la parte delantera. gracias

21.09.2023 - 17:11

country flag Guadalupe Julieta Garcia Parra wrote:

Mi pregunta es sobre los aumentos del frente derecho. El patrón dice; (Aumentar en la orilla lateral cada 2 hileras; 1 pt 5-6-7-8-9 veces, 2 pts 4 veces, 3 pts 2 veces y 4 pts 1 vez . cuando es un punto no veo problema porque es una lazada de los 3 de musgo, pero cuando son 2 ,3 y 4 aumentos como o dondo los hago ?

21.09.2023 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Guadalupe, aquí no aumentas, aquí estás montando puntos. Aumentas: 1 pt 5-6-7-8-9 veces. El resto de puntos los montas:2 pts 4 veces, 3 pts 2 veces y 4 pts 1 vez, lo más cerca posible hacia el lateral.

25.09.2023 - 01:03

country flag Lynn Strauss wrote:

In sea crossing pattern… Back says to cast on 63 stiTches and then after garter edge decrease 1 stitch each side which would make 61 …yet the pattern says 57?.?HELP Thank you

10.03.2023 - 11:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Strauss, you should decrease 1 stitch on each side when piece measures 5, 7 and 9 cm (= 3 times in total x 2 sts = 6 sts decreased), so that there are 63-6=57 sts left. Happy knitting!

10.03.2023 - 13:37

country flag Tisseur Martine wrote:

Bonjour pourriez vous m envoyer un schéma explicatif détaillé car je ne comprends pas le montage et le tricotage des devants à partir de la fin des augmentations au niveau 1m tout les 4 rangs 12x et 3 x tous les 6rangs taille xl Pourquoi la hauteur totale des devants est plus haute que celle du dos : 62 et 52 ? Merci beaucoup et désolée d être confuse

17.02.2023 - 19:43

country flag MAUGAN wrote:

L’ouvrage mesure environ 47-51-55-59-63 cm. Au rang suivant, rabat 8-10-13-16-18 mailles du côté 1 pour l’emmanchure, puis 20-20-20-20-21 fois 1 m comme suit : diminuer tous les rangs pendant 3 rangs, puis tricoter 1 rang sans diminutions. Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment faire ces diminutions 20 fois 1 maille pendant 3 rangs. pouvez vous m'éclairer s'il vous plait ? Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement. Chantal Maugan

04.01.2023 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Maugan, vous diminuez 1 m à chacun des 3 rangs suivants (= sur l'endroit et sur l'envers), puis tricotez 1 rang sans diminuer. Répétez ces 4 rangs jusqu'à ce que les 20 mailles aient été rabattues (autrement dit répétez 5 fois ces 4 rangs, puis diminuez 1 m aux 2 rangs suivants). Vous pouvez diminuer en tricotant 2 m ens à l'end sur l'end/2 m ens à l'env sur l'envers ou en rabattant 1 m au début du rang sur l'endroit/sur l'envers - dans ce cas-là, on peut faire l'une ou l'autre des 2 techniques. Bon tricot!

04.01.2023 - 14:14

country flag Joëlle Grosemans wrote:

Ont ne fait pas les emmanchures comme le dos un peu difficile de comprendre

21.04.2022 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Grosemans, il est normal de ne pas former les emmanchures pour les devants comme pour le dos car on ne les tricote de la même façon. Suivez attentivement les indications pour votre taille; mesurez bien au bon endroit et rabattez sur le côté-1 ou diminuez sur le côté-2 comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

21.04.2022 - 13:23

country flag Rivière Joëlle wrote:

Avez vous de la laine acrylique, et peux t on tricoter ce modèle avec des aiguilles numéro 5.merci

13.04.2021 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rivière, vous trouverez ici toutes les infos sur les alternatives ; vous pouvez également utiliser notre convertisseur pour voir les alternatives proposées. Bon tricot!

13.04.2021 - 15:26

country flag Karin Levin wrote:

Vad rekommenderar ni för garn istället för de som utgått?

10.04.2021 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, Vi anbefaler 1 tråd DROPS Safran og 1 tråd DROPS Alpaca. Prøv vores garnomregner. Vælg Silke-Tweed, vælg garnforbrug i din størrelse og vælg 1 tråd. Gør det samme med Cotton-Viscose så får du garnforbruget i de forskellige kvaliteter :)

12.04.2021 - 14:34