DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 81-22
DROPS design: Pattern no N-0033+N-040
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Jacket:
Sizes: XS - S/M - M/L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 17, beige

DROPS Crochet hook size 3.5 mm.
DROPS Mother of Pearl Buttons no 522: 3 items.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
The measurements in the sketch may seem a bit small, but the garment will be quite elastic so work the size you usually use.

Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide! Approx. 3.5 chain-spaces in width and 9 rows in height with hook size 3.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Measuring tip: Since the garment is quite elastic, you need to measure the width when the piece is lying flat and the height when the piece is held up, or the jacket will be too long when worn.
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Back piece: Work 97-105-113-129-145 chain stitches (incl. 8 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Viscose.
The first row is worked as follows: 1 double crochet in the 9th chain stitch from hook, * 7 chain stitches, skip 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* = 12-13-14-16-18 chain-spaces, turn piece.
Continue working as follows: 8 chain stitches (incl. 1 chain stitch to turn), 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch on first chain-space, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in same chain stitch, * 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch on next chain-space, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in same chain stitch *, repeat from *-* to end of row, turn piece. Continue in this way upwards. Remember the crochet tension! When piece measures 20 cm increase 1 space in each side by working 1 extra space in the next outermost space in each side = 14-15-16-18-20 chain-spaces on row.
Armhole: When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm - remember Measuring tip - decrease for armholes as follows:
Sizes XS + S/M + M/L: Work as before until there is 1 chain-space left, turn piece, continue with chain-spaces and repeat the decrease in the other side - or see diagram 1A.
Sizes XL + XXL: Work as before until there is 1 chain-space left, turn piece, Work slip stitches to middle of first chain-space, continue with chain-spaces and repeat the decrease in the other side - or see diagram 1B.
You have now decreased 1-1-1-2-2 chain-spaces in each side = 12-13-14-14-16 chain-spaces on row. Continue to work as before. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off for neck by working 2 rows over only 4-5-5-5-5 chain-spaces on each shoulder (you are not working the middle 4-3-4-4-6 spaces). Piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64 cm, cut strand.

Right front piece: Work 49-57-57-65-73 chain stitches (incl. 8 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Viscose. Continue working as for back piece = 6-7-7-8-9 chain-spaces. When piece measures 20 cm increase 1 chain-space in the side as for back piece = 7-8-8-9-10 chain-spaces. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm - remember Measuring tip - decrease for armhole in the one side as for back piece = 6-7-7-7-8 chain-spaces left. When piece measures 38-40-42-44-46 cm decrease for neck as follows in all sizes: Follow directions for armhole decreases for Sizes XL + XXL 1 time. Neck decreases are now finished in sizes XS, S/M, M/L and XL. Size XXL: Continue to follow directions for armhole decreases for Sizes XS + S/M + M/L 1 time. You have now decreased 2-2-2-2-3 spaces and there are 4-5-5-5-5 spaces left on shoulder. Continue working until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64 cm, cut strand.

Left front piece: Work as for right, but in reverse.

Sleeve: The cuffs are crocheted to finish.
Work 65-65-81-81-89 chain stitches (incl. 8 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Viscose. Continue working as for body = 8-8-10-10-11 chain-spaces. After 2 rows increase by working an extra chain-space in the next outermost space on the one side, work 3 rows and increase in the same way in the other side. Repeat the increase in each side 1 more time with 3 rows between each increase = 12-12-14-14-15 chain-spaces on row. Continue working until piece measures 24-24-24-22-19 cm. Now decrease for sleeve cap by working 6-6-6-8-12 rows with 1 less chain-space at the end of each row, cut the strand. Piece measures approx. 31-31-31-31-32 cm.

Assembly: Work the jacket together at the shoulder as follows: 1 slip stitch in first chain-space on back piece, 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in first chain-space on front piece, 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next chain-space on back piece, etc..
Work sleeve and side seams together in the same way. Then work sleeves to body in same way.
Cuff: Now work an edge at bottom of sleeves as follows:
Round 1: Work 51-51-61-61-61 double crochets around bottom of sleeve - i.e. approx. 5-7 double crochets around each chain-space and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round.
Round 2: 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in first double crochet, * 5 chain stitches, skip 3 double crochets, 1 double crochet in next stitch, 7 chain stitches, skip 5 double crochets, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* a total of 5-5-6-6-6 times, but replace the last double crochet with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round (= 10-10-12-12-12 chain-spaces).
Round 3: Work slip stitches to middle of first chain-space, 1 double crochet around chain-space, * 11 treble crochets around the next chain-space (= 7 chain-spaces), 1 double crochet around next chain-space (= 5 chain-spaces) *, repeat from *-* a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with 11 treble crochets around the last chain-space and 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet at beginning of round (= 5-5-6-6-6 treble crochet groups).
Round 4: Work slip stitches as far as the 3rd treble crochet in the treble crochet-group, 4 chain stitches, * 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet, ** 1 treble crochet in 3rd treble crochet in treble crochet-group, (1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet), repeat between brackets a total of 6 times **, repeat from **-** a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
Round 5: 1 picot = 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from hook. * 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around first chain stitch, (1 picot, 1 double crochet around next chain stitch), repeat between the brackets a total of 5 times, 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet between treble crochet-groups *, repeat from *-* a total of 5-5-6-6-6 times and finish with 1 chain stitch and 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at beginning of round.
Round 6: 5 chain stitches, * 1 double crochet in 2nd picot in treble crochet-group, 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th picot in same treble crochet-group, 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with 1 double crochet in 2nd picot in treble crochet-group, 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th picot in same treble crochet-group, 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round (= 10-10-12-12-12 chain-spaces).
Round 7: 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in first double crochet, * 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next double crochet, 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next double crochet, 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.
Round 8: 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next double crochet, * 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next double crochet, 5 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next double crochet *, repeat from *-* a total of 4-4-5-5-5 times and finish with 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next double crochet, 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.
Repeat rounds 3 to 8 three more times. NOTE: On the 3rd round do not work the slip stitches to middle of first chain-space, since you are already there.
Then work rounds 3 to 5 one more time - the cuff measures approx. 22 cm.

Left band: Work 4 rows as follows: * 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* up the left front piece. NOTE: There are approx. 2 treble crochets around each chain-space and 1 treble crochet between each space = approx. 52 to 62 treble crochets with 1 chain stitch between each, turn each row with 4 chain stitches.

Right band: Work as left, but after row 2, work 3 buttonholes evenly spaced at top of band. The top buttonhole should be 2 treble crochets from the edge and the next 2 with approx. 6 treble crochets between each. 1 buttonhole = 2 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet around next chain stitch. On next row work 2 treble crochets around the 2 chain stitches with 1 chain stitch between each.

Neck: Work 2 rows with * 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* around the neck (over bands as well) – work approx. 2 treble crochets around each space and 1 treble crochet between each space - adjust so that the edge is neither too tight nor too loose.
Then work 1 row of double crochets and picots as follows: 1 picot = 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from hook. Work 1 double crochet in first chain stitch, 1 picot, 1 double crochet in same chain stitch, * 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next chain stitch, 1 picot, 1 double crochet in same chain-space *, repeat from *-* to end of row, cut strand.

Sew on buttons.




Top:

Sizes: XS - S/M - M/L - XL – XXL
The measurements in the sketch can seem a bit small, but the garment is quite elastic so work the size you usually use.

Materials: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 17, beige

DROPS Crochet hook size 3.5 mm
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Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide!
Chain-spaces: approx. 3.5 chain-spaces in width and 9 rows in height with hook size 3.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
Treble crochets: 14 treble crochets in width, with 1 chain stitch between each and 14 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See diagrams 2 and 3.

Crochet info (for diagram 3):
At beginning of row, replace 1 treble crochet + 1 chain stitch with 4 chain stitches.

Measuring tip: The piece is measured when lying flat on a table.
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Front piece: Work 96-112-120-136-152 chain stitches (incl. 8 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 3.5 mm and Cotton Viscose.
The first row is worked as follows: 1 double crochet in the 16th chain stitch from hook, * 7 chain stitches, skip 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* = 11-13-14-16-18 chain-spaces, turn piece.
Continue working as follows: 8 chain stitches (incl. 1 chain stitch to turn), 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch on first chain-space, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in same chain stitch, * 7 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch on next chain-space, 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in same chain stitch *, repeat from *-* to end of row, turn piece. Continue in this way upwards - see also diagram 2. Remember the crochet tension! When piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 space in each side by working 1 extra space in the next outermost space in each side = 13-15-16-18-20 chain-spaces on row. When piece measures 26 cm work the next row as follows (from right side) - see also diagram 3: 4 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet + 1 chain stitch), then work 3 treble crochets in each of the long chain-spaces and 1 treble crochet in each of the short chain-spaces, but between each treble crochet work 1 chain stitch. Finish with 3 treble crochets in last chain-space = 52-60-64-72-80 treble crochets on row with 1 chain stitch between each, turn piece. Then work as follows: 4 chain stitches, * 1 treble crochet around the chain stitch, 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 treble crochet around the last chain stitch. NOTE: Count to make sure you still have the same number of treble crochets on the row
.

Read the whole of the next section before continuing!
Armhole: When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm decrease for armholes in each side as follows:
Work until there are 5-7-8-8-8 treble crochets left at the end of the row, turn piece. Continue with treble crochets with 1 chain stitch between each and repeat the decrease in the other side, turn piece. Then work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2-3-3-4-4 chain stitches, continue with treble crochets and 1 chain stitch between each until there are 2-3-3-4-4 treble crochets left, turn piece. Now all decreases for sleeves are finished in Sizes XS + S/M + M/L and you continue as before in these sizes.
Continue to decrease in Size XL as follows: Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2 chain stitches, continue with treble crochets and 1 chain stitch between each until there are 2 treble crochet left on row, turn piece and continue as before.
Continue to decrease in Size XXL as follows: Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 3 chain stitches, continue with treble crochets and 1 chain stitch between each until there are 3 treble crochets left on row, turn piece, work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2 chain stitches, continue with treble crochets and 1 chain stitch between each until there are 2 treble crochets left on row, turn piece.
Decreases for armholes are now finished in all sizes and there are 41-43-45-48-51 treble crochets left on row. Continue working as before.

Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 38-40-42-44-46 cm cast off for neck as follows (from right side): Work 10-10-11-12-13 treble crochets with 1 chain stitch between each, turn piece, work 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch, 4 chain stitches, work as before to end of row, turn piece. Work treble crochets with 1 chain stitch between each until there is 1 treble crochet left, turn piece and continue working as before. There are now 8-8-9-10-11 treble crochets left for shoulder strap. Continue working until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm and insert 1 marker thread (= mid top of shoulder). Continue working until shoulder strap measures 10 cm from the marker thread. Now increase on the neck-side by working 1 extra treble crochet with 1 chain stitch between in the outermost chain stitch, turn piece and work back. Turn piece, work back and increase 1 more treble crochet in the same way = 10-10-11-12-13 treble crochets on row, cut strand. Repeat on the other side of the neck.

Back piece: Cast on and work as for front piece. Decrease for armholes as for front piece and continue working until piece measures 42-44-46-48-50 cm, cut strand.

Assembly: Sew side seams neatly together, edge to edge with small stitches. Fasten shoulder straps on each side of back piece.

Picot-edge: Work a row of picots around the armholes and neck with hook size 3.5 mm as follows: 1 double crochet in chain-space, * 1 double crochet in next chain-space, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in first chain stitch from hook, 1 double crochet in same chain-space, 1 double crochet in next chain-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet at beginning of round.

Diagram

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet
symbols = 1 treble crochet
symbols = 1 slip stitch
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (45)

country flag Lizette wrote:

Hoi, ik probeer te snappen hoe ik in het rugpand moet meerderen als ik 20cm ben gekomen. Als ik de opmerkingen hieronder bekijk dan zie ik in het Engels dezelfde vraag gesteld. Klopt het dan dat ik in 1 en hetzelfde punt (nl de 4e losse van het 1 na laatste boogje) 2x een boogje plus de bijbehorende 2losse-boogjes moet maken? Alvast bedankt.

02.04.2014 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Je haakt gewoon 2 bogen in een, dus haak na de eerste nog een l en sluit met een v in dezelfde boog.

08.04.2014 - 20:30

country flag Barbara wrote:

Vervolg, hoort nog bij mijn vorige vraag. Als het goed is hoor je na alle minderingen voor maat S/M 43 stokjes op de toer te hebben. Ik kom op 42 uit. Kunt u het voor mij nakijken wat ik verkeerd doe? Heel er dank, mvg Barbara

19.03.2014 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Helaas, dat kunnen we vanaf hier niet beoordelen. Wellicht kunt u met uw werk bij een DROPS-verkooppunt langs gaan of als die niet in de buurt zit, een hakende vriend(in) vragen of even mee te kijken naar uw werk.

08.04.2014 - 20:45

country flag Barbara wrote:

Bedankt voor uw antwoorden! Toch begrijo ik de 7 minderingen nog niet goed omdat als je aan het eind van een toer mindert en dan keert, hoe kan ik verder haken zonder dat ik aan een nieuwe toer begin? Ik haak dan toch boven mijn vorige stokjes? Alvast heel erg bedankt voor uw hulp.

19.03.2014 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Je mindert door de laatste steek niet meer te haken en dan keer je. Zo blijf je op dat punt en kun je verder haken.

08.04.2014 - 20:49

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo, alvast een vraagje voor na het minderen van de 7 stokjes, het stukje met de halve vasten begrijp ik ook niet. Haak hv over de eerste 3 l, wordt er bedoeld losse? En niet stokjes? Omdat je ah einde van de toer moet haken tot de laatste 3 stokjes. Sorry voor alle vragen. Dit is mijn eerste kledingstuk dat ik haak.

19.03.2014 - 09:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Barbara. Het moet stokjes zijn - je haakt hv over de eerste 3 stokjes van de toer. Ik pas het aan.

19.03.2014 - 17:16

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo, sorry ik heb toch nog een vraagje over de top. Ik ben nu bij de armsgaten aangekomen. Er staat haak tot de laatste 7 stokjes en keer haak dan verder en minder weer aan het einde van de toer. Klopt het dan dat het ongelijk is omdat de minderingen niet op dezelfde toer gedaan worden?

18.03.2014 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Barbara. Nee, omdat je keert en haakt terug tot er 7 stk over zijn aan de andere kant, dan komen de -7 stk in dezelfde toer.

19.03.2014 - 17:06

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo, ik heb inmiddels het antwoord achterhaalt, dus u hoeft niet meer te reageren op mijn vraag over de meerderingen.

09.03.2014 - 15:37

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo. Ik ben met het topje bezig en stuit nu op de meerdering na 10 cm gehaakt te hebben aan beide zijden. Er staat meerder aan weerskanten in het voorlaatste boogje. Moet je dan ook meerderen in het tweede boogje aan het begin van die rij? Dus aan het begin en einde van de toer een boogje meerderen? Alvast heel erg bedankt!

08.03.2014 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Barbara. Goed om te horen dat je verder bent.

10.03.2014 - 10:31

Barbara wrote:

Hallo, ik ben met het topje bezig en stuit nu op de meerdering na 10 cm aan beide zijden. Er staat meerder aan weerskanten in het voorlaatste boogje. Maar er is in een rij toch maar 1 voorlaatste boogje? Moet je dan ook meerderen in het tweede boogje aan het begin van die rij? Dus aan het begin en einde van de toer? Alvast hartelijk dank!

08.03.2014 - 17:02

country flag Segaramath wrote:

Vivement le soleil pour confectionner ce joli twin set!!

28.10.2013 - 19:28

country flag Natasja wrote:

Ik heb een vraag over dit werk, ben al een tijdje bezig met haken, maar dit snap ik niet helemaal Voorpand: Haak 96-112-120-136-152 l Moet ik dit in een langen ketting haken dus eerst 96, dan 112 er achteraan??

10.09.2013 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Natasja. Dit zijn de aantallen lossen te haken per maat. Dus haak je maat XS begin je met 96 l, maat S/M 112 l en zo voort.

11.09.2013 - 10:39