DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 82-2
DROPS design: Pattern no W-290
Yarn group C
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Top:
Sizes: XS - S/M -M/L - XL – XXL
Material: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-250 g colour no 45, orange

DROPS Crochet hook size 5 mm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide! Chain-spaces: 6 chain-spaces in width and 5 rows in height with hook size 5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
Double treble crochets: 12 double treble crochets in width and 4.5 rows in height with hook size 5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Decrease tip (for armholes and neck):
Decrease as follows at beginning of row: Replace 1 double treble crochet with 1 slip stitch.
Decrease as follows at end of row: Turn piece when you have the number of double treble crochets left to be decreased and work back.

Crochet info (for double treble crochets on yoke):
First double treble crochet on row is replaced by 4 chain stitches and each row ends with 1 double treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the previous row.
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Front piece: Work 65-74-80-89-98 chain stitches (incl. 5 chain stitches to turn) with hook size 5 mm and Paris.
The first row is worked as follows: 1 double treble crochet in the 8th chain stitch from the hook, * 1 chain stitch, skip 2 chain stitches, 1 double treble crochet in next stitch *, repeat from *-* = 20-23-25-28-31 chain-spaces, turn piece. Then work as follows: 5 chain stitches (incl. 1 chain stitch to turn), 1 double treble crochet around chain-space, * 1 chain stitch, 1 double treble crochet around next chain-space *, repeat from *-*. Continue in this way upwards. Remember the crochet tension! When piece measures 12 cm, increase 1 space in each side by working 1 extra chain-space in the next outermost space in each side. Repeat the increases when piece measures 22 cm = 24-27-29-32-35 chain-spaces.

Read the whole of the next section before continuing!
Yoke: Read Crochet info! When piece measures 23 cm work the next row as follows: 4 chain stitches, * 1 double treble crochet around chain-space, 1 double treble crochet in treble crochet *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 double treble crochet around the last chain-space = 48-54-58-64-70 double treble crochets on row. Continue in this way with 1 double treble crochet in each double treble crochet - work in each treble crochet and not between treble crochets. Insert 1 marker thread mid front.
Armhole: When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35 cm decrease for armholes in each side on every row - see Decrease tip: 3-5-7-8-10 double treble crochets 1 time, then 2 double treble crochets 1 time and 1 double treble crochet 1-1-1-2-2 times.
Neckline: At the same time, when piece measures 37-39-41-41-43 cm decrease for neck as follows: Work double treble crochets until there are 9-9-9-10-10 double treble crochets left before the marker thread, then decrease 1 double treble crochet towards neck every row 2 times - see Decrease tip. After all decreases for armholes and neck, there are 7-8-8-8-9 double treble crochets left for the shoulder straps. Continue working until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm, cut strand. Repeat on the other side of neck.

Back piece: Work as for front piece. Decrease for armholes as for front piece = 36-38-38-40-42 double treble crochets and continue working until piece measures 44-46-48-50-52 cm - insert 1 marker thread mid back. Now decrease for neck as follows: Work double treble crochets until there are 10-10-10-11-11 double treble crochets left before the marker thread, then decrease 1 double treble crochet towards neck on next row - see Decrease tip. Work 1 more row, piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56 cm, cut strand. Repeat on other side of neck.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams edge to edge with small, neat stitches. Sew side seams in the same way

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 82-2

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Marit Van Der Meulen wrote:

Beste Drops DEsign, hartelijk dank voor het aanbieden van dit gratis patroon. Ik raakte even in de war door de term 'afkanten'. Is dit hetzelfde als minderen? En ik had hier nog een vraag over: Hals: Kant bij een hoogte van 37-39-41-41-43 cm af voor de hals als volgt: Haak tot er nog 9-9-9-10-10 dstk resteren voor de merkdraad, kant dan 2 x1 dstk af voor de hals in elke toer – Betekent dit dat ik dan ook aan de rechterkant middenvoor moet minderen? Hartelijk dank alvast!

21.02.2022 - 09:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marit,

Nee afkanten is niet hetzelfde als minderen. Je kant de steken af zoals bovenaan aangegeven bij tips voor het haken. Bij minderen zorg je dat je minder steken op de toer krijgt door bijvoorbeeld steken samen te haken. Dit wordt bij sommige patronen bijvoorbeeld in de zijnaad gedaan. Bij afkanten werk je de steken af, meestal op het eind van een patroondeel, zoals in dit geval bij de hals of het armsgat.

Je doet dit inderdaad ook aan de rechterkant midden voor, dus je kant op dezelfde manier af, maar dan in spiegelbeeld.

21.02.2022 - 12:07

country flag Sibylla Lemmers wrote:

Graag wil ik dit patroon haken in de afgebeelde oranje kleur, Drops 45, is deze nog verkrijgbaar? Ik kon hem niet vinden. Alvast bedankt!

17.06.2020 - 18:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sibylla,

Nee, deze kleur oranje is helaas uit de handel. Wat het meest in de buurt komt is kleurnr 13. Het kan soms voorkomen dat een verkooppunt nog wat van de kleur die uit de handel is, heeft liggen, dus je kunt altijd bij je verkooppunt vragen.

18.06.2020 - 09:18

country flag Sylvia Huizing wrote:

Ik zou dit topje graag van Safran willen haken 1 draad, hoeveel ben ik dan nodig?

09.06.2018 - 17:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sylvia, Hiervoor kijk je naar de totale looplengte. Bijvoorbeeld als je voor Paris 200 gram nodig hebt, dat is 4 bollen, dus 4 x de totale looplengte van Paris. Dit getal deel je door de looplengte per bol van Safran en dan kom je, bij benadering, op het aantal bollen dat je nodig hebt.

12.06.2018 - 10:07

country flag Sonia B. wrote:

Bonjour, à 23 cm de haut. tot., doit-on continuer avec 4 ml au début de ce rang? "Continuer avec 1 DB dans chaque DB du rang précédent – piquer le crochet dans les m pas entre les mailles." Merci.

09.05.2018 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sonia, tout à fait, on continue avec 1 DB dans chaque DB du rang précédent en remplaçant la 1ère DB du rang par 4 ml. Bon crochet!

09.05.2018 - 14:42

country flag Sonia B. wrote:

Bonjour, juste un petit mot pour vous remercier pour vos réponses à mes questions et pour la vidéo sur les diminutions. Je n'avais pas du tout pensé à les faire de cette façon. Je peux enfin terminer ce joli top! Un gros merci de m'avoir répondu si rapidement et pour vos réponses très claires! :-)

08.05.2018 - 04:09

country flag Sonia B. wrote:

Bonjour, à cette étape: "À 23 cm de hauteur totale, [...] et finir par 1 DB dans le dernier arceau = 48-54-58-64-70 DB.", on dit de finir par 1 DB dans le dernier arceau, mais dans l'INFO CROCHET on dit "dans la 4e ml du début du rg précédent". Je suis confuse! Dans l'arceau ou dans la ml? Merci.

06.05.2018 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sonia, sur ce rang, on termine par 1 DB dans le dernier arceau pour avoir un total de 54 DB. Bon crochet!

07.05.2018 - 09:22

country flag Sonia B. wrote:

Bonjour, à cette étape: "À 31-32-33-34-35 cm de hauteur totale, former les emmanchures en dim de chaque côté tous les rangs : 1 fois 3-5-7-8-10 DB, puis 1 fois 2DB et 1-1-1-2-2 fois 1 DB", pour la 2e taille (1 fois 5 DB) est-ce que cela veut dire que je dois prendre 6 DB à la fois et les crocheter ensemble; il en restera une seule, donc 5 en moins? Même chose pour 1 fois 2 DB (3 DB ensemble) et 1 fois 1 DB (2 DB ensemble)? Merci.

06.05.2018 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sonia, pour diminuer 1 x 5 DB cf réponse ci-dessous. Pour diminuer 2 DB, procédez de la même façon: crochetez 1 mc dans les 2 premières DB et crochetez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 DB à la fin du rang, tournez = vous avez diminué 2 DB de chaque côté. On procède de même pour diminuer 1 DB (= 1 mc dans la 1ère DB et on tourne quand il reste 1 DB à la fin du rang). Bon crochet!

07.05.2018 - 09:19

country flag Sonia B. wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment faire les diminutions aux emmanchures et à l'encolure: "remplacer une DB par une m coulée"? Comment fait-on cela? Et comment fait-on pour diminuer 1 X 5 DB.... puis une fois 1 DB aux emmanchures? Et que veut-on dire par "crocheter le rang jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 9-9-9-10-10 DB avant le marqueur..."? Crocheter comment, quelle sorte de point? Aidez-moi svp, je suis bloquée aux diminutions... Merci.

06.05.2018 - 04:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sonia, cette vidéo montre comment diminuer des brides de chaque côté, vous allez procéder de la même façon avec les double-brides: pour diminuer 5 DB de chaque côté, en début de rang, crochetez 1 mc dans les 5 premières DB, continuez en DB et arrêtez le rang quand il reste 5 DB, tournez et crochetez le rang suivant = vous avez diminué 5 DB de chaque côté. Pour l'encolure, crochetez comme avant (même point que précédemment) et tournez quand il reste 9-10 DB avant le marqueur. Bon crochet!

07.05.2018 - 09:04

country flag Bénédicte Venderlin wrote:

Bonjour, Il est indiqué d'assembler à points soignés. Mais qu'est-ce que les points soignés. Merci.

08.08.2017 - 20:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Venderlin, ce sont des coutures réalisées soigneusement pour qu'elles soient nettes. Bon assemblage!

09.08.2017 - 08:35

country flag Conny Holm wrote:

Hvordan kan det være, at hatten er strikket, når toppen er hæklet? Virker mærkværdigt og ganske uforståeligt - og så skal man både have hæklenål og strikkepinde. I har et hav af smukke hæklede hatte/huer. Mvh CH

17.07.2015 - 11:21