DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 16-13
DROPS Retro 1980-1993

Size: S/M – M/L.
Materials: DROPS Karisma from Garnstudio
550-600 g colour no 17, navy blue
100-100 g colour no 06, turquoise
100-100 g colour no 12, purple
100-100 g colour no 07, bright blue

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 4 mm - or size needed to obtain 20 sts x 26 rows in pattern and stocking st on needle size 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Pattern: See diagram. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS and the entire pattern is worked in stocking st.
Pattern sleeve: 1 cm navy blue, M.2, navy blue until piece measures 31.5-29.5 cm, M.2, 7 cm of M.3, M.4, complete piece in navy blue.
Rib: * K1 into back of loop, P1 *, repeat from *-*.

Body: The jumper is worked in the round on circular needle and cut for armholes afterwards. Cast on 190-200 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue and work 6 cm rib. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 50-64 sts evenly on first round = 240-264 sts. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 24 cm work M.1 and then complete piece in navy blue. At the same time when piece measures 33-35 cm inc 5 sts each side (to be cut for armhole afterwards and not included in pattern). When piece measures 59-61 cm cast off the middle 44 sts mid front for neck and complete piece back and forth on needle. Cast off to shape the neckline towards mid front on every other row: 1 st 2 times. At the same time when piece measures 61-63 cm cast of the middle 46 sts on back piece and dec 1 st on neckline on next row. Cast off remaining sts on shoulder when piece measures 62-64 cm.
Sleeve: Cast on 46-48 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with navy blue and work 5 cm rib. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and continue in pattern – see above – at the same time inc 13-13 sts evenly on first round = 59-61 sts. At the same time after the rib inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 29-28 times on every 4th round = 117-117 sts. When piece measures 55-53 cm work 5 rounds in reverse stocking st (for sewing sleeve to body piece). Cast off.
Assembly: Insert a marking thread in the middle of the inc sts for armhole. Sew 2 seams on a sewing machine around the marking thread, 1st seam = ½ st from the MT, 2nd seam = ½ st from the 1st seam. Cut for armholes. Sew the shoulder seams. Pick up approx 100 sts round the neck on circular needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue and work 3 cm rib, cast off. Set in sleeves as follows: sew the last row in stocking st on sleeves to row after machine seam on armhole. Turn jumper inside out and fasten piece in reverse stocking st on sleeve to body piece.

Diagram

symbols = navy blue
symbols = bright blue
symbols = purple
symbols = turquoise
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 16-13

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Gudrun wrote:

Wird das Muster von 16-13 rundum gestrickt oder nur im Bereich der Vorderseite?

11.05.2022 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gudrun, das Muster wird rundum gestrickt, dh auf beide Vorder- und Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.05.2022 - 08:42

country flag David Porter wrote:

I mean before i start the pattern. David

24.01.2022 - 01:22

country flag David Porter wrote:

Or if i did another one i suppose i could start with more stitches after the rib. Say 4 more patterns ie 96 more stitches. The one i did had 2 extra patterns on it. David

24.01.2022 - 01:20

DROPS Design answered:

We are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. Should you need any individual assistance recalculing the pattern, please contact the store whre you bought the yarn or any knitting forum. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

24.01.2022 - 10:20

country flag David Porter wrote:

Thx for reply, is this the only solution then please. Regards David

24.01.2022 - 01:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Porter, to get the finished measurements as shown in the chart, you have to get the correct tension or then re-calculte the pattern with your own measurements/own tension - you can use another pattern same tension and required measurements, find help here. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

24.01.2022 - 10:19

country flag David Porter wrote:

I have now completed the jumper and sown up. The stranding across the diamonds is too tight. Is there anything i can do about it please as it is so nice. Regards David

23.01.2022 - 23:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear David, there is little you can do after finishing the swetaer. If your knitting is thighter while doig these patterns, you should always change to a bigger needle. And always pay attention to the strands being loose enough behind your work. Now you can try soak the sweater and truly block it. Happy Stitching!

24.01.2022 - 00:38

country flag David Porter wrote:

I do have 264 stitches. David

17.01.2022 - 10:43

country flag David Porter wrote:

I have am doing the bigger size, its going well but, I thought i would put the stitches on a strand of yarn to try it on, I found it too small and tight around my stomach. I am very disappointed now been knitting for a while now. Sleeves are all done just the body to finish. Around 20 rounds left of the pattern. David

17.01.2022 - 00:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mr Porter, is your tension right? With 20 sts = 10 cm, you should have the 264 sts in larger size = 132 cm around = 66 cm flat j ust as shown in the chart. Happy knitting!

17.01.2022 - 09:39

country flag David Porter wrote:

I am up to 36cm, i have seen the videos on steeking which i have never done. I dont have a sewing machine is there an alternative please to putting the sleeves in. Looking forward to hearing from you David

15.01.2022 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear David, you can seam by hand, but each seam has to be very close together, to not leave holes and to avoid stitches being lost in the process. Happy knitting!

16.01.2022 - 23:49

country flag David Porter wrote:

Hi Just to add has anyone else knitted this and had the same problem David

02.01.2022 - 00:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear David, you might want to try and put that question up in th eDROPS Workshop group on Facebook. Maybe there will you find someone who also made this piece. Happy Stitching!

03.01.2022 - 02:03

country flag David Porter wrote:

Very disappointed in this, i am 3 quarter through the pattern and i thought i would put the stitches on a piece of yarn to try it on. Its far too small i cant get both arms in to pull it over my head. David 😭😢

01.01.2022 - 23:55