DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 98-9
Size:
5/6½ - 7½/9 – 9½/12 (US sizes)
35/37 - 38/40 – 41/44 (EU sizes)

Foot length: 22 – 24 – 27 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10½"
Leg length: 33 – 36 – 39 cm / 13"-14 1/4"-15 1/4"

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes color no 01, off-white
100 g for all sizes color no 44, light gray
100 g for all sizes color no 21, gray

DROPS double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 22 sts x 30 rows on needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 in stockinette stitch = 10x10cm.

Rib: *K3, P3*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See chart M.1.

Decreasing for heel:
1st row (= RS): Work until there are 7-8-9 sts left on row, slip next st as if to knit, K1, psso
2nd row (= WS): Purl until there are 7-8-9 sts left on row, slip next st as if to purl, P1, psso
3rd row (= RS): Work until there are 6-7-8 sts left on row, slip next st as if to knit, K1, psso
4th row (= WS): Purl until there are 6-7-8 sts left on row, slip next st as if to purl, P1, psso
5th row (= RS): Work until there are 5-6-7 sts left on row, slip next st as if to knit, K1, psso
6th row (= WS): Purl until there are 5-6-7 sts left on row, slip next st as if to purl, P1, psso
Continue like this with 1 less st left before each dec until there are 10-10-10 sts left on row.
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SOCK
Cast on 66-72-78 sts on double pointed needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with off-white and work Rib and stripes after diagram M.1.
When piece measures 30-33-36 cm / 11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4" dec 1 st in each P section by P tog the first 2 P sts (K3/P2 in Rib) = 55-60-65 sts.
When piece measures 32-35-38 cm / 12½"-13 3/4"-15" dec 1 st in each K section by K tog the first 2 K sts (K2/P2 in Rib) = 44-48-52 sts.
When piece measures 33-36-39 cm / 13"-14 1/4"-15 1/4" (stop after 6 rows in off-white) put the middle 22-24-26 sts on top of foot on a holder.
Now work 5-5.5-6 cm / 2''-2¼''-2 3/8'' in stockinette sts back and forth over the remaining 22-24-26 sts (= heel).
Dec for heel – see above.
After the heel dec pick up 11-13-15 sts on each side of the heel and put all sts on double pointed needles = 54-60-66 sts.
Work Rib over the middle 22-22-26 sts on top of foot and stockinette sts over remaining sts as follows: 12 rounds of light gray and 2 rounds of gray and then continue in diagram M.1.
At the same time dec as follows: K tog the 2 sts before the Rib and K tog into back of st the 2 sts after the Rib on every other row a total of 6 times = 42-48-54 sts.
Continue until foot measures approx 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾'' from the heel.
Stop after a full repeat of M.1 and finish the sock in off-white.
Insert a marker each side and dec for toe on both sides of each marker as follows:
K2 tog before marker and after the marker K2 tog into back of sts.
Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 3 times = 30-36-42 sts.
Then dec on every row a total of 6-7-9 times = 6-8-6 sts left.
Cut the yarn and pull it through remaining sts. Fasten.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.05.2022
Decreasing for heel: 2nd row (= WS): Purl until there are 7-8-9 sts left on row, slip next st as if to knit, P1, psso + 4th row (= WS): Purl until there are 6-7-8 sts left on row, slip next st as if to knit, P1, psso

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off-white
symbols = light gray
symbols = gray
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Lena wrote:

Is the heel description correct? It reads knit for every row, but on the picture it doesn’t look like garter stitch heel. Shouldn’t I knit the RS and purl the WS? In addition, the second row is missing PSSO at the end after P1. Is that correct or just typo?

11.05.2022 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lena, you are right, UK-English pattern has been fixed, thanks for your feedback. Happy knitting!

11.05.2022 - 16:03

country flag Carolle Morin wrote:

Combien de mailles pour ce même patron pour enfant 6ans

18.09.2021 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Morin, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, vous pourrez toutefois trouver tous nos modèles de chaussettes enfant ici, utilisez les filtres par tension/échantillon ou groupe de laine si besoin. Bon tricot!

20.09.2021 - 10:50

country flag Hanneke wrote:

Je breit gewoon de middelste steken van del hiel: U bedoelt neem ik aan wreef?in boordsteek verder zoals je al had gedaan. Het maakt niet uit dat het boordsteekpatroon daarbij niet precies af gemaakt wordt. Als het goed is heb je trouwens eerder al geminderd zodat je 2 recht/ 2 averecht hebt: noordsteek is 3r 3av! Maar je moet dus 2r 2av breien? Als je dan de middelste steken op.:??

07.10.2020 - 19:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hanneke,

Excuses, ik bedoel inderdaad 'verder breien over de wreef' Wat betreft de boordsteek: Na het opzetten brei je boordstek in 3 recht, 3 averecht maar bij een hoogte van 30-33-36 cm minder je 1 steek in elk averecht deel en bij een hoogte van 32-35-38 cm minder je 1 steek in elk recht deel, waardoor een boordsteek ontstaat van 2 recht, 2 averecht. Bij het aansluiten van de wreef op de onderkant van de voet gaat het erom dat de boordsteek er aan beide kanten hetzelfde uitzien.

21.11.2020 - 18:04

country flag Hanneke wrote:

Bij de voet staat dat je de wreef verder moet breien in boordsteek, maar dat zijn 26 steken. niet deelbaar door drie. Of moet je 2r 2av breien?

05.10.2020 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hanneke,

Je breit gewoon de middelste steken van de hiel in boordsteek verder zoals je al had gedaan. Het maakt niet uit dat het boordsteekpatroon daarbij niet precies af gemaakt wordt. Als het goed is heb je trouwens eerder al geminderd zodat je 2 recht/ 2 averecht hebt. Als je dan de middelste steken op.

07.10.2020 - 17:09

country flag Hilde Bohinen wrote:

I oppskriften står følgende "...felles 1 maske i hvert vrangparti ved å strikke de to første vrang-m vr sm (=3r/2 vr hele veien rundt) =55-60-65 masker. Her strikkes 2 r/2 v utgangspunktt. Hva regnes som "hvert vrangparti"? Hvordan kan den fellingen tilsvare 3 r/2 vr? Skal all felling foregå på samme runde, eller er det over flere runder?

29.10.2017 - 21:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hilde. I denne oppskriften er vrangborden beskrevet som: 3 rett, 3 vrang. Når det skal felles 1 maske i hvert vrangparti, felles alle maskene på sammen omgang. Da vil vrangborden etter "felle-omgangen" blir: 3 rett, 2 vrang. God Fornøyelse!

31.10.2017 - 10:29

country flag Ruth Wæverstrøm wrote:

Angående diagram, m 1 hvordan skal det læses, det ser ud som der kun er to pinde med mellemgrå i begyndelsen, på farvebilledet ser det ud som der er mange flere

31.10.2016 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ruth. Der er kun to pinde med den mellemgraa. Det er den lysegraa du ser flere pinde af.

01.11.2016 - 10:19

country flag Christina Persson wrote:

Fel garnåtgång anges i beskrivningen. Färgerna 01 och 44 räcker inte. Av färg 21 blir det ett helt nystan över (gäller i storlek 41/43)

20.02.2016 - 13:21

country flag Anna wrote:

Ist das richtig? Vor der Ferse sind 44-48-52 Maschen auf der Nadel, nachher für den Fuß 42-48-54 Maschen? Oder muß es vielmehr heißen: Zunahmen auf beiden Seiten der Ferse 12-13-14 (11/13/15?) Gruß Anna

23.02.2015 - 07:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anna, Sie müssen für denn Fuß nicht notwendig die gleiche M-Zahl auf der Nadel haben wie für den Schaft. Die Anleitung ist also richtig (nachdem sie gestern korrigiert wurde).

23.02.2015 - 09:41

country flag Karin Neumann wrote:

Wenn 11 - 13 - 15 M aufgenommen werden, dann stimmt natürlich die Maschenzahl, aber in der Anleitung steht: "Nach dem Abnehmen für die Ferse aus beiden Seiten der Ferse je 11-12-13 M. aufnehmen. Alle M. auf dem Nadelspiel verteilen = 54-60-66 M."

22.02.2015 - 22:01

DROPS Design answered:

Nun sehe ich das Problem erst richtig - die M-Zahlen sind in den verschiedenen Sprachen unterschiedlich, hier hat sich wohl beim Übersetzen der Fehlerteufel eingeschlichen. 11-13-15 M ist richtig und wird korrigiert. Ich hoffe, Sie können die Socken nun gut beenden und haben viel Freude beim Tragen!

22.02.2015 - 23:01

country flag Karin Neumann wrote:

..Mit den neu angeschlagenen 11 - 12 - 13 M sind somit 54 - 58 - 62 insgesamt auf den 4 N und nicht wie angegeben 54 - 60 - 66, nach den 5x2 Abnahmen sind wieder, wie zu Beginn der Ferse 44 - 48 - 52 M auf den N. (Nicht wie angegeben 42 - 48 - 54) liebe Grüße an das DROPS TEAM, ihr seid super, Karin

22.02.2015 - 18:26

DROPS Design answered:

Antwort siehe unten, die Maschenzahlen stimmen so, wie sie in der Anleitung stehen und die Anleitung funktioniert wie beschrieben.

22.02.2015 - 21:43