DROPS / 97 / 18

Swing by DROPS Design

DROPS Tailored cardigan knitted in “Alpaca

Size: XS- S-– M – L – XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 7238, green mix

Drops pointed needles size 3.5 mm or size needed to obtain the knitting tension.

Drops shell button, no. 525: 3 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 23 sts x 30 rows on needles size 3.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.

Decreasing tips-1 (apply for the cut at the sides): All decreases are done from the RS!
Dec as follows after the marking thread: K2 tog.
Dec as follows before the marking thread: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Decreasing tips-2 (apply for the armholes and the neck): All dec are done from the RS! Dec. inside 3 edge sts at the armhole and inside 12 sts of garter sts for the neck side.
Dec as follows before 3/12 sts: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after 3/12 sts: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Increasing tips: Inc as follows: Pick up 1 st from previous row and K it.
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Back piece:
Cast on 94-104-114-126-140-154 sts (incl. of 1 edge st each side) on needles size 3.5 mm in Alpaca. K the 1st row from the WS and continue in stocking sts throughout. Insert a marking thread 24-26-29-32-35-39 sts in from each side (= 46-52-56-62-70-76 sts between the marking threads). When the piece measures 6-7-8-9-10 cm dec by each marking thread for the cut at each side. Dec after the 1st marking thread and before the 2nd marking thread – see decreasing tips-1: Dec on every 6th row a total of 5 times = 84-94-104-116-130-144 sts. When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm inc again by the marking threads – inc after the 1st marking thread and before the 2nd marking thread – see increasing tips. Inc on every 6th row a total of 5 times = 94-104-114-126-140-154 sts. When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm cast off 4-5-6-8-10-12 sts each side for the armholes. Continue to dec 1 st (see decreasing tips-2) each side on every other row 5-7-8-10-13-15 times = 76-80-86-90-94-100 sts. When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm knit 4 rows of garter sts over the centre 52-52-56-56-60-60 sts (continue to knit other sts as before) then cast off the centre 28-28-32-32-36-36 sts for the neck.
Continue to cast off 1 st towards the neck on every other row inside 12 sts of garter sts a total of 2 times – see decreasing tips-2: = 22-24-25-27-27-30 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Left front piece:
Cast on 53-58-63-69-76-83 sts (incl. of 1 edge st at the side and 12 sts for the centre front band) on needles size 3.5 mm. K the 1st row from the WS. Continue in stocking sts but knit the 12 band sts in garter sts throughout. Insert a marking thread 24-26-29-32-35-39 sts in from the side. When the piece measures 6-7-8-9-10-11 cm dec 1 st before the marking thread for the cut – see decreasing tips-1: On every 6th row a total of 5 times = 48-53-58-64-71-78 sts. When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm inc 1 st before the marking thread – see increasing tips: On every 6th row a total of 5 times = 53-58-63-69-76-83 sts.
Please read all of the following section before continuing!
Neck shaping: When the piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm dec for the neck shape inside the 12 band sts – see decreasing tips-2: Dec 1 st on every other row a total of 18 times and then on every 4th row a total of 4-4-6-6-8-8 times.
Armhole: At the same time when the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm cast off for the armhole as done for the back piece.
When all dec are completed for the neck and armhole = 22-24-25-27-27-30 sts left on the shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm

Right front piece:
Cast on and knit as left front piece but reverse. Note! Dec and inc for the cut after the marking thread. In addition cast off for 3 button holes at the front band edge.
1 buttonhole= cast of the 5th and 6th st from the edge and cast on 2 new sts at the same place on the returning row. Cast off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size XS: 21, 24 and 27 cm
Size S: 20, 24 and 28 cm
Size M: 21, 25 and 29 cm
Size L: 22, 26 and 30 cm
Size XL: 21, 26 and 31 cm
Size XXL: 22, 27 and 32 cm

Sleeve:
Cast 56-58-62-64-68-70 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on needles size 3.5 mm. K 1 row from the WS. Continue in stocking sts. When the piece measures 10 cm dec 10 sts evenly distributed on row = 46-48-52-54-58-60 sts. Continue to inc 1 st each side on every 8-7-7-6-5-5 row a total of 15-16-16-18-19-20 times =76-80-84-90-96-100 sts. When the piece measures 50-49-48-47-45-43 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 5-6-8-9-12-15 times, continue to cast off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 57 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time each side. Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures approx 58 cm.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams, insert the sleeves and sew the sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew in the buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.08.2009
Back piece: When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm knit 4 rows of garter sts over the centre 52-52-56-56-60-60 sts (continue to knit other sts as before) then cast off the centre 28-28-32-32-36-36 sts for the neck.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 97-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (131)

Selma 23.10.2014 - 11:25:

Bonjour.j aurais besoin d une precision pour le devant gauche(en t. xs):on doit placer le marqueur en comptant 24m. a partir de la bordure en point mousse,ou bien compter 24m.a partir du cote du gilet?merci d avance pour votre reponse.

DROPS Design 23.10.2014 kl. 12:11:

Bonjour Selma, on compte les 24 m à partir du côté (celui qui sera cousu au dos, pas côté bordure devant), c'est-à-dire à partir de la droite, vu sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

Selma 16.10.2014 - 19:52:

Bonsoir a vous.je voudrais juste savoir pourquoi demander 5 boutons dans les fournitures,alors qu il n y a que 3 boutonnieres?merci d avance.

DROPS Design 17.10.2014 kl. 09:21:

Bonjour Selma, il s'agit d'une faute de frappe, il faut effectivement 3 boutons seulement. Merci. Bon tricot!

Selma 31.08.2014 - 17:54:

Bonsoir.j aurais besoin d une autre precision pour le dos et les diminutions:lorsque l on fini la 5eme diminution on est a 17cm de hauteur? ou alors apres avoir fait la 5eme dim. on tricote jusqu a avoir 17cm de hauteur pour commencer les augm.?je precise que je tricote la taille xs.merci.

DROPS Design 01.09.2014 kl. 09:56:

Bonjour Selma, à 17 cm (taille S), toutes les diminutions doivent avoir été faites, et on commence alors les augmentations que l'on répète 5 fois tous les 6 rangs. Bon tricot!

Selma 29.08.2014 - 18:55:

La c est plus clair.merci pour vos precisions.

Selma 28.08.2014 - 19:20:

Merci pour votre reponse du 08.8 mais mon souci c est les dim. et non les augmentations comme vous l indiquez dans votre reponse.merci d avance.

DROPS Design 29.08.2014 kl. 09:25:

Bonjour Selma, effectivement désolée pour cette confusion, on diminue tous les 6 rangs ainsi: *1 rang sur l'end avec diminutions, 5 rangs sans diminutions (Soit 1 de chaque sur: l'envers, l'endroit, l'envers, l'endroit, l'envers)*, répétez de *-* le nbe de fois indiqué. Bon tricot!

Selma 07.08.2014 - 19:58:

Bonsoir et merci pour vos explications.j ai un souci pour les dim.1.lorsque vous indiquez(pour le dos)de diminuer tous les 6rgs cela veut dire qu il faut tricoter 6rgs et faire la dim. au 7eme rgs qui lui est 1 rg endroit? merci.

DROPS Design 08.08.2014 kl. 09:18:

Bonjour Selma, vous pouvez faire ces augmentations soit tous les 5-7 rangs et augmenter sur l'envers, soit alterner tous les 6 et tous les 4 rangs ou bien tous les 8 et tous les 6 rangs. Bon tricot!

Selma 29.07.2014 - 19:46:

Bonsoir je realise cette veste en xsle notre de mailles pour le dos est de 94 lorsque vous dites 1m lis de chaque cotes,ces 2m lis sont comprises dans les 94m?et est ce qu il faut les tricoter?merci d avance

DROPS Design 30.07.2014 kl. 09:43:

Bonjour Selma, la 1ère taille est XS (et non XL, correction faite, merci) - les m lis sur les côtés peuvent se tricoter en jersey, au point mousse ou en lis chaînette au choix (cf vidéothèque pour les retrouver) et en fonction de votre façon d'assembler, mais sont bien comprises dans le nombre de mailles indiqué. Bon tricot!

Monika Dostler 06.03.2014 - 15:26:

Ich habe Gr. L mit 300g gestrickt. Leider hatte ich a bissle zu wenig Wolle und wollte dies sagen, weil ich eig. "normal" stricke, und noch nie zuwenig Wolle hatte. M.D.

TSANG 02.02.2014 - 12:44:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse j'ai encore une autre question,pour l'encolure je dois diminuer 18 fois tous les 2 rangs et 4 fois tous les 4 rangs, je ne comprend pas la dernière diminution, 4 fois ts les 4 rgs,comment je gère ces deux consignes? Je vous remercie d'avance cordialement Julienne

DROPS Design 03.02.2014 kl. 09:48:

Bonjour Julienne, pour l'encolure diminuez d'abord 18 fois 1 m tous les 2 rangs puis 4 fois 1 m tous les 4 rangs. Bon tricot !

TSANG 01.02.2014 - 12:34:

Bonjour, dans diminutions 2: je ne comprend pas ce que signifie cette explication: Diminuer avant 3/12 m : Diminuer après les 3/12 m : je connais et sais faire les diminutions mais je ne sais pas à quoi se rapporte le "3/12" et le "avant" et "après" merci de bien couloir m'aider car je ne vois pas la fin de mon tricot!! cordialement ju

DROPS Design 01.02.2014 kl. 16:03:

Bonjour Tsang, les diminutions se font pour les emmanchures à 3 m des bords et pour l'encolure à 12 m des bords. On diminue sur l'endroit: pour les emmanchures, en début de rang après les 3 m point mousse et avant les 3 dernières m point mousse en fin de rang, et pour l'encolure après les 12 m point mousse en début de rang et avant les 12 m point mousse en fin de rang. Bon tricot!

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